GARBEN  GUIDE 

.-* 

THE  AMATEUR  GARDENERS' 
HANDBOOK 


Main  Lib. 

Agric.  Deot 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


THE  AMATEUR  GARDENERS' 
HANDBOOK 


How  to  Plan,  Plant  and  Maintain  the  Home 
Grounds,  the  Suburban  Garden,  the  City  Lot. 
How  to  Grow  Good  Vegetables  and  Fruit.  How 
to  Care  for  Roses  and  Other  Favorite  Flowers, 
Hardy  Plants,  Trees,  Shrubs,  Lawns,  Porch 
Plants  and  Window  Boxes.  Chapters  on  Garden 
Furniture  and  Accessories,  with  Selected  Lists 
of  Plants,  etc. 

Heavily  illustrated  with  teaching  plans  and  diagrams 

and  reproduced  photographs,  all  made  expressly 

for  this  Great  Little  Text  Book 

Contributors  Contributors 

THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  tfttSlfe  ^HE  FLOWER  GARDEN 

F.  F.  Rockwell,  ^CffffC*  LAWNS,  TREES,   SHRUBS 

Putnam,  Coi>n.  WStdt^X  GARDEN  FuRNITURE,&C. 

THE  FRUIT  GARDEN  <Br5H»  Prof.  A.  c.  Hottes, 

A  J   Loveless  ^f      *\^     '  Ohio  State  University 

Lenox,  Mass.  V       /  PUBLISHERS' 

BIRDS  IN  THE  GARDEN  .    FOREWORD 

Chas.  Uvinsston  Bu,, 


PRICE:  Papei,  50  cts,  Cloth,  75  cts. 


NEW  YORK 
A.  T.  DE  LA  MARE  COMPANY,  ING.  438  TO  448  West  37th  Street 


•Main  T.Jb. 
Agric.  Dept. 


FIRST  EDITION 
COPYRIGHT,  MARCH  15,  1917 

SECOND  EDITION,  REVISED 

COPYRIGHT,  1917 
A.  T.  DE  LA  MARE   COMPANY,  INC. 

All  Rights  Reserved 


( 


CONTENTS 

(For  Classified  Index  See  Pages  251-256) 

CHAPTER  I— PLANNING  THE  HOME  GROUNDS 

First  Considerations  in  the  Composition  of  a  Garden — Drives — 
Lawns — Location  of  Dwelling  House — Treatment  of  the  Shrubs,  Belts, 
Borders,  Beds — A  Plea  for  Greater  Seclusion. 

CHAPTER  II— LAWNS  AND  GRASS  PLOTS 

,     Establishing  a   New   Lawn — Seed   Mixtures — Care  of  the   Lawn — 
Turfing. 

CHAPTER  IH^-HEDGES  AND  FENCE? 

The  Homeliness  of  the  Enclosed  Garden — Best  Plants  for  Hedges— 
Board  Fences. 

CHAPTER  IV— TREES  AND  SHRUBS 

Beauty,  Shade  and  Shelter  from  Trees— Evergreen  Trees  and  Shrubs 
— Street  Trees— Selection  of  Flowering  Trees  and  Shrubs — List  of  Bloom- 
ing D>ates. 

CHAPTER  V— THE  ROSE  GARDEN 

Hardy  Brier  Roses,  Climbing,  Tea,  Hybrid  Tea,  Hybrid  Perpetual 
Roses — Preparation  of  Soil — General  Treatment — Insects  and  Diseases. 

CHAPTER  VI— AMONG  THE  HARDY  FLOWERS 

Combinations  of  Perennials — Planning  Hardy  Borders — Spring  and 
Autumn  Planting — Cultivation — Staking — Watering — Lists  of  Alpines 
and  Perennials. 


Pea. 


CHAPTER  VII—  A  FEW   OF  "EVERYBODY'S  FAVORITES" 
Gladiolus  —  Peony  —  Gartn  a  —  Dahli  a  —  Chry  santhemu  m  —  Iris  —  Sweet 

CHAPTER  VIII—  ANNUALS  AND  BIENNIALS 

Soils  —  Sowing  —  Combinations    of    Annuals  —  Everlasting    Flowers  — 
Annuals  for  Cut  Flowers  —  Lesser-known  Annuals  —  Germination  Table. 

CHAPTER  IX—  BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS 
Preparation  of  Beds  —  General  Cultivation  —  List  of  Bulbous  Plants. 

/ 
CHAPTER  X—  HARDY  GARDEN  FERNS 

Soil  —  Position  —  Selection  of  Kinds. 


392214 


4  GARDEN  GUIDE 

'   CHAPTER  XI— THE  ROCK  GARDEN 
Construction— Materials — Suitable  Plants. 

CHAPTER  XII— GARDEN  FURNITURE 
Arbors — Seats — Sundials — Birdbaths,  etc. 

CHAPTER  XIII— FRUIT  FOR  THE  SMALL  GARDEN 
A  pples — Pears — Peaches — Gooseberries,  etc. 

CHAPTER  XIV— VEGETABLE  GARDEN 

Digging  and  Preparing  Soil — Planting  and  Transplanting — Principles 
of  Cultivation — Harvesting  and  Storing — Sowing  and  Planting  Table — 
Cultivation  of  the,Chief  Vegetables. 

CHAPTER  XV — HOME  CANNING  OF  FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES 

^  CHAPTER  XVI— PRUNING 
Roses — Hedges — Ornamental  Shrubs — Fruit  Trees — Evergreens. 

CHAPTER  XVII—  ENEMIES  OF  PLANTS 
Insect  Pests  and  Plant  Diseases,  with  means  of  Combating  Them. 

CHAPTER  XVIII— WINTER  PROTECTION 
Straw  Mats — Protective  Material  for  Outdoor  Plants — Frames,  etc. 

*     CHAPTER  XIX— PLANT  PROPAGATION 
Cuttings — Divisions — Seeds — Grafts — Layers. 

CHAPTER  XX— WINDOW  BOXES  AND  PORCH  PLANTS 

CHAPTER  XXI — GREENHOUSES,  HOTBEDS  AND  FRAMES 

Type  of  House  for  Small  Place,  also  Notes  on  Heating — Hotbeds  and 
Goldframes. 

CHAPTER  XXII— BIRDS  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Best  Type  of  Bird  Houses — Feeding  of  Birds — List  of  Berry-bearing 
Shrubs. 

CHAPTER  XXIII— GARDEN  TOOLS 
CHAPTER   XXIV— CALENDAR  OF  GARDEN  OPERATIONS  FOR  THE  YEAR 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

(For  General  Index  See  Pages  251  to  256) 


Annual    and    Perennial    Plants, 
Garden  of 92 

Apple  Tree,  Typical  Half  Stan- 
dard for  Amateur's  Garden.  .133 

Arch,  a  Rustic 129 

Arches,  Trellised  Rose 127 

Backyard  Gardens,  Plans  of.  12-  13 
Backyard    Gardens    to    Street 
Houses 107-154 

Bean,   Improved  Golden  Wax- 
pod 167 

Beans,  Dwarf  French 171 

Bird  Bath 90 

Bird  Houses   (Wren  and  Blue- 
bird)  230-232 

Bog  Garden  and  Semi-wild  Gar- 
den  117 

Borders  of  Hardy  Flowers.59-60-  61 
Box  for  Transplanting  Seedlings.  148 
Bridge,  Rustic,  Design  for....  125 

Brussels  Sprouts,  Dish  of 163 

Bulbs,  Diagram  for  Planting.  .  .111 

Cabbages 167 

Gannas,  Bed  of 77 

Carrots,  Early  Stump-Rooted.. .  168 

Celery    Plants,    Showing   Thin- 
ning and  Blanching  of 164 

Chair,  Rustic,  Making  a 128 

Crocuses    Naturalized    in    the 
Grass 104 

Cropping  of  a  Half-acre  Garden, 
Plan  for 160 

Cropping  of  a   Town   or   City 
Garden,  Plan  for 159 

Currant  Shoots,  Pruning 144 

Cuttings,   Hardwood  and  Soft- 
wood  200 

Cuttings  in  Flower  Pot 206 

Daffodil  Flower,  Single 108 


Dahlia  Root ., 201 

Dahlias,  Hedge  of 80 

Delphiniums  from  Seed 96 

Dove  Cote. 124 

Flower,  Section  of  a  Typical. ...  206 
Flowers,  Old  and  New  Way  of 

Arranging 240 

Foxgloves  Colonized 95 

Frame,  A,  199;  Cold,  Well  Shel- 
tered Line  of,  225;  Double 
Glazed,  224;  Garden,  the 
King  Jr.,  221;  Small,  for 

Forcing 223 

Fruit — Collection  of  Grapes, 
Pears,  Apples,  135;  Collec- 
tion of  Melons,  Peaches, 

Apples,  Grapes .' 138 

Garden  Composition,  a  Good . .  36 
Garden  Plans.  12,  23,  25,  26,  29. 154 
Garden  Scene  in  Early  Summer.  103 
Grafting,  Cleft,  207;  Tongue. .  .208 

Greenhouse,  Small,  Suitable  for 
Moderate-sized  "  Suburban 

Place 218,  219 

Home  on  Highway,  With  Hedges 

Around 17 

Hotbed  Frame,  Section  of.  ...  .222 

Hotbed,  Planting  a 161 

House,  Best  Exposure  in  Rela- 
tion to  Sun 14 

Insects — Head  of  sucking,  194; 

Head  of  biting 194 

Iris  Border  Backed  with  Shrubs 

in  Semi-wild  Garden 83 

Iris  Flower  and  Its  Parts 87 

Iris,  Japanese,  Colonized 85 

Jerusalem  Artichoke  Tuber 201 

Lattice  Screen 20-    21 

Lattice  Work  Against  a  House, 

and  Window  Box 212 

Lawn  Plantings 33 

5 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Lawn  View  .  .  .  ................   19  Summer  House  ................  124 

Layering   of   Gooseberries,  210;  Sun  Parlor  arid  Window  Boxes.  220 

Rhododendrons  ..............  210  Sweet*  Peas  on  Trellises  ........   89 

Lily  of  the  Valley  Pip  .....  109  Swiss  Chard  ..................  177 

Mats,  Straw  or  Reed  ........  198  Terrace  Garden  Well  Planted.  .  .   30 

Morning  Glories,  a  Hedge  of..  .  .  101  Tools  and  Devices,  237;  Barrel, 

Onion  Sets.  ............  .......  173  Broad   Wheeled,   239;   Frame 

Pavilion,  a  Rustic.  .  .                  .  .  127  Barrow  for  Leaves  and  Grass, 

Peonies    a  Border  of    71  •  TV™*  239;  Garden  Hoes>   17°5  Gar~ 

of  73-  Rack  for                            73  den  StePs'  239;  Garden  ^T'm%e 

ol,  73   Mack  and  vaporizing  Sprayer,  194; 

Peonies,  Violas  and  Other  Hardy  Hoisting  a  Barrel,  Device  for, 

Flowers  ....................  63  239;  Hand  Cultivator,  239; 

Pergola  of  Classical  Design,  130;  Lawn  Beater  and  Roller,  237; 

a  rustic  ..............  *  ......  54  Light  Ladder,  237;  Markers, 

Plans  of  Gardens  ..............  165;  Pea  and  Bean  Supports, 

12,  13,  23,  25,  26,  29,  37,  38,  154  237;  Planet  Jr.  Hoe,  169; 

r,,     x.        ra          -       0,    j  Roller,  236;  Sawing  Pieces  off 

Planting  Plans  for  Shade  and  Leve,    Method  of>  23?;  g^. 

teurs,   192;  Sickle,  239;  Stor- 

Planting,     Right     and     Wrong  age  Box  for  Fruit,  239;  Tree 

Methods  of  ..............  37-    38  Guard,  236;  Water  Barrel  on 

Pond  With  Water  Lilies  ........  113  Wheels,   236;  Watering  Can, 

Potatoes,  Basket  of  ............  175  •' 

Pruning  a  Dwarf  Rose  .....  ,  ...  186 

Pruning:     A  limb    188;  Rasp-  Tomatoes  Trained  to  Fence  .....  178 

berries,     191;     Shrubs,     187;  T>    ir        n  •  *.                              -laz 

Vines,  141  ;  Young  Tre^  ......  188  Trellls'  a  Damty  .............  125 

^  _,  Tulips,  Narcissi  and  Other  Bulbs 

-Red  Currant  Tree,  A  .......  in  Backyard  Garden  .........  107 

Rock  Garden,  Diagram  for  Mak-  Turnips,  White  Milan  ..........  176 

mg  a  .......................  121  _T                               _      0        ,  . 

Vegetable  Garden  lor  Supplying 

Rock  Garden  Scenes  .......  118,  122  a  Large  Household  ..........  155 

Rose  and  Flower  Gardens.  48-51-  56  Vegetable  Garden  on  Suburban 

Roses  on  Arches  ...............  89  .     Lot  ....................  149,  152 

Roses,  Budding  of  .  .  .  .........  209  Vegetables,  Typical  Collection  of  150 

Screen  for  the  Side  or  Back  of  Vines,  Grape,  Kieffen  System  of 

House  .....................  57  Pruning  ....................  141 

Seat,  Rustic  ..............  125,  129  Water  Lilies  in  a  Pond.  ...  .....  113 

Sprayer,  An  Efficient  Barrel  ____  145  Water  Loving  Plants  ..........  116 

Spraying  Engine,  Hand  Pump.  .  195  Window  Boxes  Filled  with  Pe- 

Strawberry  Runner  ............  209 

T.U    A/T      u  11  Workmen  s   Dwellings   with   no 

Strawberry,  The  Marshall.  .....  142  Garden  ..........    ......  16,    31 

Sub-tropical  Plants  in  Summer.   41  Workmen's      Gardens      Nicely 

Sugar  Corn,  Well-grown  Ears  .  .  180  Planted  ....................   32 


PUBLISHERS'  FOREWORD 

BOOK  must  bear  a  title,  a  distinguishing  name,  and  so 
here  we  have  the  AMATEUR  GARDENER'S  HANDBOOK. 
Its  scope  will  be  unfolded  in  the  Preface  of  the  editor 
and  compiler.  The  Publishers,  however,  ask  a  first 
hearing. '  The  conception  of  the  book  was  not  at  all 
limited  to  the  purposes  set  forth  in  the  title.  It  had  a 
higher  aim.  Through  its  medium  we  hope  to  win  thousands  from 
crowded  city  homes  to  the  free  air  of  the  open  country.  We  seek  to 
preach  freedom  from  the  very  housetops,  to  induce  worthy  citizens 
to  cultivate  their  health  as  well  as  their  gardens  and,  in  so  doing,  add 
to  their  happiness  and  the  years  of  their  lives,  to  do  their  duty  by  their 
children  through  environing  their  young  lives  with  the  surroundings 
which  will  make  them  sturdy,  self  reliant  and  observant,  and  best  fit 
them  for  their  own  battle  of  life.  Among  children  there  are  few 
weaklings  in  the  country. 

The  country  (and  in  this  term  may  be  included  practically  all  our 
suburban  towns,  boroughs  and  villages)  is  the  children's  paradise, 
with  all  Nature's  world  as  their  playground., 

The  hygienic  value  of  fresh  vegetables  and  fruits  is  beyond  ques- 
tion; their  value  to  the  family  cannot  be  estimated  in  terms  of  money. 
The  writer  knows  this  and  thousands  of  fortunate  suburbanites  will 
testify  to  its  truth.  A  good  garden  is  Nature's  antidote  for  all  ills 
flesh  is  heir  to;  it  certainly  does  not  make  for  a  source  of  revenue  to 
the  physician.  Fresh  fruits  and  vegetables,  each  in  their  season, 
taken  from  your  garden,  are  something  quite  different  from  the  much 
handled  and  frequently  stale  products  we  buy  in  the  city.  Nearly 
every  vegetable  is  an  annual  and  can  be  grown  with  the  first  year's 
occupancy,  and  the  second  Summer  the  taste  for  all  the  small  fruits 
can  be  indulged  in  to  the  full. 

The  Cliff  Apartment"  dweller,  whose  vision  is  'bounded  on  all 
sides  by  straight  lines  of  brick  and  mortar,  cement  and  stone,  whose 
life  is  harried  by  the  janitor,  whose  quietude  is  disturbed  by  the 
noises  overhead  and  below,  who  cannot  enjoy  a  night's  sleep  in  the 
open  without  fear  of  arrest,  whose  movements  to  and  from  business 
are  made  miserable  in  trolley,  subway  or  "  L,"  must  surely  envy  the 
commuter,  even  though  the  latter  be  still  made  the  butt  of  the  irre- 
pressible joker,  whom  we  pardon  because,  poor  man,  he  knows  no 
better. 

Advocacy  of  social  advantages  has  no  particular  part  in  this 
presentation,  yet  these  features  have  more  play  in  country  than  in 

7 


8  GARDEN  GUIDE 

towns,  for  the  acquaintances  made  by  your  children  in  the  former 
will,  as  a  whole,  be  more  permanent  and  have  a  larger  bearing  on 
their  future  because  they  are  more  intimately  brought  together  in 
their  school,  their  play  and  their  daily  association. 

Suburban  public  schools  are  governed  to  a  great  extent  by  men 
who  have  come  out  from  the  cities.  Their  advantages  here  are  equal 
to  those  of  the  city,  perhaps  superior,  because  the  classes  average 
smaller,  high  schools  abound,  and  the  education  of  the  youth  up  to  the 
age  of  seventeen  or  eighteen  can  thus  be  obtained  at  or  very  near 
home. 

Life  in  the  suburbs  opens  the  way  to  a  family  home — one's  very 
own,  eliminating  forever  the  yearly  move.  Don't  pay  rent — own  your 
home  so  you  can  do  with  it  as  you  please  Permanence  of  location  is 
helpful  to  well-being,  so  then  make  a  careful  selection.  Take  time 
to  make  an  intelligent  choice  and,  where  you  settle,  make  the  best  of 
it;  stick  If  you  have  the  funds  to  pay  for  the  home  outright,  you  are 
among  the  fortunate  ones,  otherwise  the  local  building  and  loan 
association  will  take  care  of  you  at  no  greater  outlay  than  rent  if  you 
own  the  ground  and  are  considered  a  good  moral  risk.  Inside  of  eleven 
years  the  home  is  yours  and  the  money  which  would  otherwise  go  to  a 
generally  indifferent  landlord  may  be  applied  to  betterments,  to 
education  or  to  the  purchase  of  more  land. 

Whether  it  is  better  to  buy  than  to  build  depends  on  circum- 
stances. Painstaking  investigation  is  always  in  order. 

The  family  home,  the  home  for  your  children  and  quite  likely  for 
some  of  your  children's  children,  the  home  wherein  the  family  tradi- 
tions will  linger,  surely  that  is  the  home  that's  wanted — the  home  to 
which  your  children  may  come  back  and  the  recollection  of  which  will 
brighten  all  the  toilsome  days  of  their  lives.  The  family  home  is  the 
wisest  of  all  investments;  it  is  the  foundation  which  makes  for  family 
honor  and  stability.  Pedigree  adds  to  the  stability  of  our  country 
and  its  institutions,  and  the  family  home  is  the  source  and  foundation 
of  true  patriotism. 

There  is  no  Springtime  in  the  city,  no  Autumn.  Among  the 
bricks  and  stone  the  unfolding  glories  of  Spring  are  unknown  to  the 
toiler  and  his  family.  The  city  is  equally  unresponsive  to  the  awaken- 
ing life  of  the  one  as  it  is  to  the  passing  glories  of  the  other.  A  city 
has  but  two  seasons,  Summer  and  Winter,  mostly  the  latter — the  Win- 
ter of  our  discontent. 

Do  not  let  it  be  said  of  you:  "  The  city  was  his  country;  he  loved 
better  to  hear  the  trolley  car  rattle  than  the  birds  carol."  The  city 
may  be  a  good  place  to  work  in;  it  undoubtedly  is;  but  if  all  our  homes 
could  be  in  the  freedom  of  the  country  we  would  be  a  superior  race. 


INTRODUCTION 

'E  all  have  our  dream  gardens  in  which  stretches  of 
smooth  lawns  appear,  hedges  of  sweet  smelling  shrubs 
like  Brier  Roses,  Lavender,  Rosemary,  or  of  neat  leaved 
Box,  such  as  one  sees  at  the  old  home  of  George  Wash- 
ington at  Mt.  Vernon.  We  have  our  scenes  of  Rose  beds 
encircled  by  grass  or  sand-covered  paths,  with  a  little  foun- 
tain and  bird  bath  nearby,  a  cozy  arbor  or  rest-house  off  to  one  side, 
borders  filled  opulently  with  a  variety  of  old-time  hardy  flowers 
fragrant  with  memories  of  other  days.  Here  and  there  a  fruit  tree 
stands  laden  with  the  promise  of  luscious  fruits,  and  all  around  is  the 
busy  hum  of  insect  life,  with  the  flutter  of  birds /and  butterflies,  and 
the  throbbing  of  a  hundred  things  of  the  great  storehouse  of  Nature, 
that  make  a  garden  more  than  a  dreamland,  but  certainly  a  place  of 
great,  refreshing  rest,  recuperation,  peace,  happy  thoughts.  It  is 
the  place  to  commune  with  friends,  either  in  bodily  presence  or  in 
books.  It  is  a  place  in  which  to  plan,  to  read,  to  rest,  to  work,  to 
play.  Back  of  all  there  is  the  utilitarian  kitchen  garden,  the  drying 
yard,  the  chicken  run,  the  place  for  the  household  pets,  the  children's 
swing  and  sand  heap,  and  the  other  happy  features  and  adjuncts  that 
make  the  house  and  garden  our  home. 

We  believe  that  one  chief  reason  for  the  paucity  of  good  and 
bright  gardens  is  the  lack  of  knowing  how  to  set  about  making  them. 
Gardening  is  a  very  large  subject.  It  has  formed  the  study  and 
recreation  of  the  leisure  moments. of  many  eminent  men  from  the  time 
of  Solomon,  Homer,  Aristotle,  Plato  and  others  of  the  ancients,  to 
Erasmus  and  Bacon  of  the  Renaissance  Evelyn  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  to  the  more  modern  notabilities,  as  Pope,  Walpole,  Gowper, 
Goethe,  Cobbett,  our  own  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  and  Thoreau,  with 
many,  many  others.  The  amateur  gardener  is  therefore  in  excellent 
company  of  the  present,  as  well  as  of  all  past  tunes.  Gardening  is 
pleasurable,  healthful,  intellectual. 

We  should  not  forget  the  purely  economical  side  of  the  matter 
that  has  been  dwelt  upon  in  the  publishers'  foreword.  But  this 
GARDEN  GUIDE  is  not  intended  exactly  to  be  a  mentor  on  making 
money  or  saving  money.  You  are  willing  to  pay  for  your  household 
gods,  embellishments,  your  automobile,  your  camera  and  sporting 
outfits,  your  concerts  and  theatres.  Expect  to  pay,  therefore,1  for  your 
gardening;  yet  we  can  assure  the  amateur  that  well-considered  expen- 
diture on  the  garden  more  than  pays  for  itself.  You  can  have  delicious 
edible  Asparagus  on  your  table  day  in,  day  out  for  weeks  in  the  early 


10  GARDEN  GUIDE 

part  of  the  year.  You  can  have  salads  and  young  vegetables  from 
April  until  November.  Then  there  are  the  flowers  and  fruits  over  and 
above,  and  other  assets  of  and  from  the  garden  that  are  too  apparent 
to  need  to  be  mentioned. 

The  plan  of  this  book  is  sufficiently  set  forth  in  the  table  of  con- 
tents, and  we  therefore  offer  this  GUIDE  confident  in  the  belief  that  it 
will  be  found  an  excellent  introduction  to  what  is  unequivocally  one 
of  the  most  delightful  recreations  that  man  can  pursue. 


In  the  preparation  of  this  Guide  acknowledgement  must -be 
given,  in  addition  to  those  whose  names  appear  on  the  title  page,  to 
John  McArthur,  Elizabeth,  N.  J.,  for  suggestions  on  the  heating  of 
small  greenhouses;  to  Samuel  Redstone,  formerly  of  Philadelphia,  for 
hints  on  the  kinds  of  greenhouses  most  suitable  for  amateurs ;  and  to 
Prof.  W.  F.  Massey,  Salisbury,  Md.,  for  the  calendar  of  garden 
operations  for  the  South.  For  help  in  the  preparation  of  the  manu- 
script for  the  printer,  and  in  the  reading  of  the  proofs,  warmest 
thanks  are  tendered  to  A.  G.  Peterkin,  Bloomfield,  N.  J. 


CHAPTER  I 

Planning  the  Home  Grounds 

IF  one's  place  is  but  a  small  -area  of  so  many  dozen  square  yards, 
it  is  great  fun  to  do  one's  own  planning,  and  little  can  go 

wrong.  Should  the  place  be  more  pretentious,  running  to  one  or 
,  two  acres,  it  might  be  money  in  one's  pocket  to  consult  a  landscape 
gardener,  or  an  experienced  nurseryman  or  designer.  There  are 
several  excellent  books,  too,  that  can  be  referred  to,  and  from  which 
valuable  information  can  be  got  on  the  laying  out  of  your  home 
grounds.  One  of  these  is  Gridland's  "  Landscape  Gardening." 

The  first  considerations  in  the  composition  of  a  garden  or  the 
grounds  about  one's  place  are  Privacy,  Variety,  Shelter,  Balance. 

The  planning  and  arrangement  of  the  features  of  a  garden  or  of 
the  grounds  about  the  house  should  be  as  carefully  considered  as  the 
choice  and  placing  of  the  furniture  in  one's  home,  or  the  choosing  of  a 
suit  of  clothes,  or  a  dress  to  wear.  The  same  idea  holds,  namely,  the 
planning  of  a  suitable,  agreeable,  comfortable  composition.  The 
garden  has  been  called  the  outdoor  drawing-room. 

The  arrangement  of  the  drives  and  the  grading  of  the  lawns,  the 
drainage  when  necessary,  and  the  arrangement  of  the  buildings  and 
outhouses  should  all  be  preconceived  and  settled  in  an  orderly,  econom- 
ical manner.  As  far  as  possible  there  should  be  no  mistake  about  the 
main,  permanent  features.  The  minor  features  may  be  changed  quite 
a  great  deal  in  the  coming  years  and  almost  surely  will,  as  new  ideas 
and  points  of  view  assert  themselves.  This  changing  of  the  minor 
features  is  a  part  of  the  recreation  of  gardening.  Thus  one  may 
considerably  alter  the  contour  of  a  shrubbery  border,  or  may  indeed 
eliminate  it  altogether.  The  same  holds  good  of  flower  beds  and 
borders,  which  are  easily  altered,  removed  or  added  to;  but  with  large 
trees  or  the  heavier  groups  of  shrubs  the  expense  of  removal  and 
shifting  prohibits  this  being  done  except  out  of  dire  necessity. 

Where  one  has  the  choice  of  building  one's  house  or  choosing  its 
location,  the  best  aspect  for  it  is  where  the  front  porch  faces  southeast, 
as  shown  in  the  drawing  on  page  14;  another  good  position  is  facing 
due  south.  In  any  case,  as  everybody  likes  abundant  sunshine  or 
ought  to,  see  to  it  that  the  windows  and  living  rooms  face  in  the  direc- 
tion of  abundant  light.  Those  places  that  are  hidden  beneath  a  dense 
canopy  or  half  a  forest  of  trees  may  suit,  and  do  suit,  some  folks,  but 

H 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Actual  layout  of  a  backyard  garden 
fenced,  on  lot  30x100  ft.  Standard 
Apple,  Plum  and  Pear  trees  were 
planted  around  the  divisional 
fences.  They  did  not  unduly  shade 
the  hardy  flowers.  The  smooth 
gravel  path  terminated  in  an  arbor, 
over  which  Roses,  Ivy  and  Clematis 
grew.  Rhododendrons,  evergreens, 
hardy  Heaths,  Viburnums,  etc., 
with  bulbs  between,  were  used  on 
the  right  hand  border.  There  was 
a  sun  parlor  at  the  back  of  the 
house.  The  garden  lay  due  south 


they  are  terribly  depressing  to  the 
great  majority  of  us,  besides  being, 
one  should  imagine  not  conducive 
to  health.  Light,  air,  freedom,  are 
good  watchwords  for  the  builder  and 
planner. 

Character  can  be  given  to  an 
entrance  by  simply  having  two 
ornamental  pillars  built  there,  with 
possibly  an  iron  arch  over  them. 
If  this  is  planted  with  creeping  vines 
and  is  supported  at  the  sides  with 
groups  of  evergreens,  it  adds  wonder- 
ful dignity  and  seeming  value  to  the 
property. 

While  winding  paths  or  drives 
are  graceful,  they  should  not '  be 
made  meaninglessly,  but  are  in  order 
where  the  ground  slopes  a  little  or 
dips,  or  where  irregularity  exists. 
Certainly  these  can  always  be  added 
or  made  in  order  to  get  the  curved 
line.  Even  in  small  places,  as  cm- 
plans  show,  the  swinging  line  of 
beauty  can  be  had.  Straight  paths 
may,  however,  be  more  convenient, 
and  can  still  be  tasteful  and  harmo- 
nious. They  are  undoubtedly  neat. 

No  book  can  tell  the  reader 
exactly  what  may  be  the  best  arrange- 
ment for  his  garden  or  property. 
Every  garden  should  have  a  character 
of  its  own,  and  generally  does,  unless 
in  the  case  of  the  very  smallest, 
where  nearly  all  opportunity  for 
variety  is  extinguished;  yet  it  is  re- 
markable what  can  be  done  on  a 
quarter  or  an  eighth  of  an  acre. 
We  have  often  seen  plots  of  30  ft.  x 
100  ft.  laid  out  with  much  variety 
and  taste,  and  which  were  full  of 
interest.  In  those  towns  and  cities 
of  our  own  country,  and  in  the  old 


PLANNING  THE  HOME  GROUNDS] 


countries  where  the  inhabitants, 
almost  to  a  man,  appreciate  the  ele- 
gancies of  gardening,  the  little  places 
exhibit  the  utmost  variety  of  charac- 
ter in  their  composition. 

It  is  all  too  true  that  thousands 
of  gardens  and  grounds  all  around 
our  American  homes  are  bare  to  de- 
solation. The  democratic  idea  and 
feeling  against  planting  of  hedges 
and  the  lining  off  of  one's  property 
makes  for  deadly  uniformity.  The 
arguments  that  unhedged  or  unfenced 
grounds  would  be  contrary  to  the 
best  artistic  conception  and  treat- 
ment of  a  city  or  suburb  as  a  whole, 
ought  not  to  be  allowed  to  sway  the 
property  owner  from  making  the 
most  and  the  best  of  his  own  place. 
There  is  a  school  of  landscape  gar- 
deners and  city  planners  who  seem 
to  set  their  face  against  this,  encourag- 
ing the  open  community  type  of 
home  grounds.  The  latter  will  never 
get  us  anywhere  as  a  nation  of 
garden  lovers,  and  almost  entirely 
precludes  the  practice  of  the  finer 
gardening.  We  plead  rather  to  see 
places  nicely  hedged  or  railed  off,  so 
that  stray  dogs  and  unceremonious 
persons  may  be  kept  at  a  proper 
distance,  but  most  of  all  for  the  sake 
of  the  enjoyment  and  encourage- 
ment of  that  quiet  privacy  without 
which  the  true  pleasures  of  garden- 
nig  cannot  be  attained. 

Which  is  the  best — to  have  a 
big,  bare  lawn  and  a  few  trees,  or  an 
odd  group  of  shrubs  here  and  there, 
or  the  trimly  hedged  and  fenced 
grounds,  with  flower  borders,  speci- 
men trees  and  shrubs,  beds  and 
belts  of  Roses,  arches  of  Roses  and 


Suburbanllot  fenced,  on  40x100  ft. 
A  low  hedge  divided  off  the 
vegetable  garden.  Fruit  trees  and 
bushes  were  lined  by  the  side  of 
this,  while  pillar  Roses,  dwarf 
Roses,  neat  shrubs  and  beds  of 
flowers  were  elsewhere  well  disposed. 
The  vegetable  plot  was  a  model  of 
good  cropping,  containing  Toma- 
toes, Corn,  Beans,  Beets,  Celery, 
Carrots,  Spinach,  herbs  and  salads. 
Raspberries  lined  the  fences.  This 
ran  east  and  west 


14 


GARDEN  GUIDE 

al 


PLANNING  THE  HOME  GROUNDS 


15 


other  climbers,  water  basins,  an  arbor  or  Rose  house  where  tea  or  ice- 
cream may   be  partaken   in  the  sunny  Summer  days,  or  where   in 


FIG.  A  — Planting  plan  to  insure  best 
effect  of  shade,  outlook,  protection,  and 
privacy  on  a  lot  facing  north 


r 


FIG.  B     — Planting  plan  to  insure  best 

•  effect   of  shade,   outlook,   protection, 

and  privacy  on  a  lot  facing  south 


FIG.  C  — Planting  plan  to  insure  best 
effect  of  shade,  outlook,  protection 
and  privacy  on  a  lot  facing  east 


FIG,.  D  —Planting  plan  to  insure  best 
effect  of  shade,  outlook,  protection 
and  privacy  on  a  lot  facing  west 


Reproduced  from  Cornell  Bulletin  361 


16 


GARDEN  9  GUIDE 


Haven't  you  seen  many  working  men's  houses  just 
like  this — gaunt  and  bare,  no  neat  hedges,  no  neat 
lawns,  not  even  a  Geranium  or  a  Canna  in  sight  ? 


some  shady  corner  we 
can  enjoy  a  siesta  or 
a  book  in  the  open 
air? 

The  fact  [is  we  do 
not  make  half  enough 
use  of  the  grounds 
about  our  homes; 
they  are  left  blank  in 
most  instances.  We 
warmly  urge  the 
planting  of  light 
screen  belts  of  trees 
and  hedges  around 
the  property,  which 

need  not  be  so  dense  as  to  prevent  a  neighbor  or  passer-by  from 
enjoying  glimpses  of  your  garden.  Regel's  Privet,  California  broad- 
leaved  Privet,  Golden  Privet,  Hemlock,  Arborvitre,  Austrian  Pine, 
White  Pine,  Norway  Spruce,  Rambler  Roses,  Ivy,  Ampelopsis,  Plane 
trees,  Berberis  Thunbergii,  are  among  the  easily  grown  subjects  that 
are  useful  in  such  screen  belts,  .and  most  of  which  can  be  increased  on 
one's  own  place  at  little  expense  if  the  suggestions  given  in  another 
part  of  this  book  are  carried  out. 

The  initial  expense  of  planting  the  outer  parts  and  main  features 
of  the  grounds  or  garden  need  not  be  large.  By  the  exercise  of  a  little 
patience  one  can  grow-on  a  good  many  things  for  future  de- 
velopments. Poplars  should  only  be  used  sparingly.  They  grow  fast, 
it  is  true,  and  for  that  reason  are  often  employed,  and  in  some  places 
are  elegant  and  pleasant  enough,  but  generally  they  are  "messy," 
losing  their  leaves  early,  and  their  roots  often  choke  up  drains.  The 
almost  constant  rustling  of  their  leaves  and  other  aspects  of  the  trees 
are  disagreeable  to  many  people. 

Make  provision  for  a  good  space  of  lawn,  and  treat  the  lawn  well. 
Water  in  motion,  as  in  fountains,  is  often  desirable  but  is  a  secondary 
consideration,  just  as  the  number  and  amount  of  flower  beds  or  borders 
is,  as  also  the  introduction  of  rock  gardens,  arbors  and  such  like.  The 
thing  of  prime  importance  is  to  have  the  main  features  properly 
planned  at  the  outset— the  garage,  the  barn,  the  poultry  run,  the 
kitchen  or  vegetable  garden,  and  the  other  parts  of  the  place  such  as 
have  been  already  spoken  of,  also  the  grading  and  terracing  (if  any), 
are  among  the  first  matters  that  require  attention.  Minor  undulations 
or  changes  of  the  surface  can  be  left  for  a  future  day.  It  is  not,  we 
repeat,  necessary  to  have  a  cut  and  dried  plan' from  the  beginning; 


PLANNING  THE  HOME  GROUNDS 


17 


far  better  let  it  grow  with  your  knowledge  of  the  place.  What  may  be 
called  the  adventitious,  luxurious  or  additional  features  will,  practi- 
cally speaking,  take  care  of  themselves.  You  will  gradually  come  to 
find  out  the  most  appropriate  spot  for  this  or  that.  Do  not  be  in  a 
hurry;  allow  the  place  to  grow  up.  It  will  suit  your  pocket  better  and 
furnish  endless  recreation  and  pleasure.  It  will  keep  your  mind  happy 
and  active.  You  will  be  interested  and  learning  all  the  while.  This  is 
true  gardening,  and  the  meaning  and  the  reward  of  gardening  and 
garden  making. 

Some  pains  should  be  taken  to  have  clean,  well-made  paths. 
Take  out  6  in.  or  8  in.  of  soil  and  fill  with  clinkers,  rough  ashes  or  stones, 
finishing  off  with  smaller  stones,  bound  or  rolled  in  with  a  little  soil. 
For  a  strong,  permanent  road,  concrete  may  be  employed.  If  a  cement 
surface  is  objected  to,  gravel  can  be  strewn  over  before  the  cement 
sets,  and  be  rolled  in.  Grass  paths  are  comfortable  and  beautiful. 
Brick  is  also  good.  It  is  well  also  to  have  a  tile  or  slate  or  wooden  edg- 
ing to  the  paths,  as  this  makes  for  neatness  and  easy  up-keep. 

You  will  find  that  by  walking  around  your  district  or  other  dis- 
tricts, your  walks  are  as  a  book;  at  every  turn  you  will  gain  some 
experiences  or  suggestions  that  may  be  modified  or  adopted  with 
profit  on  your  own  grounds. 

Lastly,  there  is  no  place  so  unpromising  that  it  cannot,  by  dint  of 
knowledge,  skill,  effort  and  some  small  financial  expenditure,  be  made 
a  beautiful  or  trimly  garden. 


A  comfortable  home  on  a  public  highway  in  the 
country.  Is  the  hedge  any  detraction?  On  the 
contrary,  does  it  not  bespeak  repose  and  quietude 
within?  It  takes  little  imagination  to  conjure  up  a 
pleasant  garden  here — the  fruit  trees,  the  shrubs,  the 
vegetables,  the  flowers,  the  children's  swing,  the 
rest  house,  the  pretty  lawn.  These  are  solid  comforts ; 
let's  have  them 


CHAPTER  II 

Lawns  and  Grass  Plots 


THE  lawn  furnishes  the  setting  for  a  house,  and  if  it  is  trim,  smooth 
and  of  a  healthy  green,  will  add  the  finishing  touch  to  an  attrac- 
tive home  which  no  amount  of  planting  can  give.    Wide  spread- 
ing slopes  or  level  terraces  of  turf  are  the  delight  of  many  of  the  simplest 
and  stateliest  residences.   Neat  lawns  are  ever  the  sign  of  thrifty  people. 

The  main  difficulty  generally  is  that  too  frequently  the  surface  is 
cut  by  meaningless  and  inappropriate  beds.  Such  beds,  in  large  lawns, 
sometimes  detract  from  the  feeling  of  repose,  and  in  small  lawns  the 
beds  may  often  be  left  out  with  advantage.  Trees  and  shrubs  which 
are  arranged  haphazard  and  thickly  about  a  lawn  are  also  objectionable*. 
Many  a  home  yard  is  utterly  spoiled  by  this  spotty  appearance.  The 
suggestion  is  to  let  the  lawn  stand  for  a  feature  by  itself,  and  to  arrange 
the  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers  at  the  margins.  In  many  cases  no  better 
effect  can  be  gained  than  by  allowing  the  cool  green  lawn  to  run  direct- 
ly up  to  the  brick  or  brown  stone  houses. 

In  establishing  a  new  lawn  it  should  always  be  remembered  that 
the  first  preparation  is  the  important  one;  it  should  remain  for  years 
before  being  dug  up  again.  If  the  soil  is  a  heavy  clay,  it  must  be 
drained,  for  the  grasses  most  used  in  lawns  do  not  tolerate  "wet  feet." 
If  grading  has  been  done,  soil  which  was  at  the  surface  must  be  pro- 
yided  for  a  surface  layer,  because  subsoil  does  not  contain  the  proper 
organisms  for  good  growth.  If  top  soil  is  not  obtainable,  it  is  better 
to  seed  for  a  year- with  Peas  and  Oats  which  should  be  spaded  or  plowed 
under  when  in  juicy  growth.  Any  soil  will  benefit  by  an  application  of 
well  decayed  manure.  Fresh  manure  contains  weed  seeds  and  will 
always  prove  troublesome.  Besides  manure,  there  is  nothing  better 
than  ground  bonemeal.  This  will  continue  to  supply  the  beneficial 
food  substances  for  a  great  length  of  time.  Before  the  seed  is  sown, 
the  soil  must  be  raked  very  smoothly  and  the  stones  removed.  It 
should  be  firm  and  perfectly  level,  for  every  hollow  will  show  later.  A 
little  rolling  will  compact  the  soil  just  enough  for  seeding. 

SEED  MIXTURES.  No  one  variety  of  lawn  grass  is  the  best.  In 
order  to  get  results  we  must  not  depend  on  one  grass  alone,  but  must 
so  mix  our  varieties  that  a  thick  turf  is  formed  not  only  quickly,  but 
permanently.  Some  grasses  live  but  a  year,  and  require  an  annual  re- 
sowing.  Cheap  mixtures  contain  some  of  these.  It  is  interesting  to 

18 


.  LAWNS  AND  GRASS  PLOTS  19 

know  that  the  roots  o£  some  grasses  go  deeper  than  others;  for  this 
reason  good  mixtures  utilize  the  whole  top  soil  most  advantageously. 
Reputable  seedsmen  can  be  depended  upon  to  supply  proper  mixtures 
for  various  purposes.  Go  to  them,  tell  them  your  soil  conditions,  and 
they  will  give  you  the  proper  mixture. 

Kentucky  Blue  Grass  is  no  doubt  the  most  used.  It  does  not 
make  a  good  sod  the  first  year,  but  improves  in  subsequent  years.  It 
succeeds  admirably  on  the  limestone  soils.  In  Midsummer,  it  is  apt 
to  become  somewhat  brown.  Canada  Blue  Grass  is  useful  for  dry  and 


A  lawn,  soft  and  smooth  as  velvet 

clayey  soils  and  seems  able  to  resist  drought.  Many  of  the  Fescues 
are  extremely  valuable.  The  Fine-leaved  Sheep's  Fescue  has  the  nar- 
rowest blades.  The  Hard  Fescue  is  useful  in  forming  a  dense  mat  and 
stands  drought.  -Besides  these,  the  Creeping,  the  Sheep's  and  the 
Meadow  Fescues  all  form  sods,  and  are  useful  for  mixtures. 

For  immediate  results,  but  not  lasting,'  a  little  Italian  Rye  Grass 
can  be  used.  Red  Top  seems  to  succeed  even  on  slightly  acid  soils, 
and  forms  a  dense  mat.  The  Sweet  Vernal  Grass  is  odorous  and  gives 
a  softness  to  the  lawn.  Wood  Meadow  and  Rough  Stalked  Meadow 
Grass  both  succeed  well  in  the  shade.  White  Clover  is  also  useful  in 
mixtures;  it  forms  a  dense  ground  cover  and  thrives  in  most  soils  and 
climates.  A  quart  of  grass  seed,  which  is  a  little  over  half  a  pound, 
should  be  used  for  every  three  hundred  square  feet  of  surface.  The 
Clover  is  to  be  sown  separately,  as  the  seed  is  heavier. 

SOWING.     Grass  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  the  snow  has  gone  and  the 


20  GARDEN  GUIDE 

ground  warmed  slightly.  It  is  an  advan- 
tage to  get  it  well  started  before  the 
trees  begin  to  shade  the  soil,  perhaps 
as  early  as  April.  If  sown  later,  espe- 
cially in  Midsummer,  the  hot  sun  will 
make  it  difficult  for  the  grass  to  start. 
The  soil  will  need  careful  and  thorough 
watering.  Grass  seed  may  also  be  sown 
A  lattice  screen,  supported  at  in  the  Autumn  from  mid-August  to  Oc- 

the  base  by  a  wall.  Between  the  tnhpr  with  o-nnH  rp<inlt<s  Tf  a  Hav  inct 
chinks  of  the  stones  and  in  a  ^Der,  Wllll  gOO  UllS.  II  day  JUSl 

channel  along  the  top,  suitable  before  a  rain  can  be  chosen  it  will  be 

found  that  the  grass  will  be  up  in  a  few 

days.  If  no  rain  is  in  sight,  give  a  thorough  sprinkling  of  water,  but 
not  with  force,  else  the  seed  will  be  washed  out.  If  it  is  windy,  how- 
ever, the  seed  will  scatter  badly,  and  will  not  come  up  evenly. 

When  large  areas  are  to  be  sown  it  is  best  to  divide  the  lawn  into 
approximately  ten-foot  squares  and  teeat  each  separately,  else  it  will 
be  difficult  to  sow  uniformly.  To  cover  the  seeds,  the  areas  should 
then  be  raked  in  two  directions,  after  which  the  lawn  should  be  thor- 
oughly rolled.  This  will  compact  the  soil  so  that  the  seeds  are  in  con- 
tact with  the  soil  particles. 

THE  YEARLY  CARE  of  the  lawn  consists  first  of  a  slight  mulch  of 
thoroughly  rotted  manure  in  the  Winter.  This  not  only  protects  the 
grass  from  the  cold,  but  supplies  plant  food  as  well.  In  the  Spring, 
when  growth  first  starts,  the  coarser  material  should  be  removed  and 
the  lawn  given  a  dressing  of  bonemeal.  An  application  of  nitrate  of 
soda,  which  is  best  applied  in  solution  (one  oz.  to  two  gallons  of  water), 
will  give  the  lawn  a  good  start.  To  renovate  the  lawn,  seed  can  usually 
be  sown  about  one-half  as  thickly  as  for  new  lawns. 

Frequently  bad  spots  are  found.  These  are  often  due  to  the  fact 
that  in  grading  some  large  stone  has  been  left  in  the  soil  which  cuts 
off  the  supply  of  water  from  below.  At  other  times" the  soil  becomes  a 
little  sour.  If  the  bad  spot  is  dug  up  deeply  and  the  stones  removed, 
fresh  soil,  a  little  lime  and  decayed  manure  added,  the  fault  is  often 
remedied.  It  is  advisable  to  give  an  extra  heavy  seeding  also. 

MOWING.  When  the  young  grass  has  been  up  for  perhaps  two 
weeks  it  is  often  good  to  roll  it  and  defer  the  first  cutting  until  the 
plants  are  about  three  inches  tall.  The  new  lawn  should  not  be  cropped 
too  closely,  but  should  be  cut  regularly.  The  grass  will  then  be  in- 
duced to  spread  out  rather  than  grow  tall.  If  cut  weekly,  the  clippings 
should  not  be  removed;  they  will  be  useful  to  protect  the  roots  against 
the  sun  as  well  as  to  furnish  an  excellent  mulch.  If,  however,  the  grass 


LAWNS  AND  GRASS  PLOTS 


21 


Some  flower  gardens  are  so  situated  that  it  becomes  necessary  to  run  a  lattice- 
work fence  around  them.  A  dainty,  ornamental  fence  like  the  above,  if  painted 
white,  is  very  suitable.  See  also  chapter  on  garden  furniture,  pages  123  to  129 

has  grown  long,  the  clippings  should  be  raked  and  will  be  a  good 
mulch  for  use  about  perennials  in  the  borders. 

ROLLING.  Not  only  on  the  newly  seeded  areas  is  the  roller  useful, 
but  all  the  lawns  should  be  thoroughly  rolled  in  the  Spring.  The  Win- 
ter frosts  cause  more  or  less  heaving  of  the  soil,  exposing  the  roots  to 
drying  as  well  as  leaving  an  irregular  surface.  The  best  rollers  for  the 
purpose  are  the  water  ballast  rollers;  they  are  made  of  hollow  iron  and 
can  be  readily  filled  with  water,  thus  increasing  or  diminishing  the 
weight  for  the  various  soils  and  their  changing  conditions. 

WEEDING.  Many  of  the  objectionable  weeds  on  new  lawns  are 
annuals,  and  they  may  be  entirely  eradicated  in  one  year  if  they  are 
prevented  from  seeding.  Many  other  weeds,  such  as  Docks,  Dande- 
lions and  Canadian  Thistles,  are  perennials,  and  are  provided  with 
underground  fleshy  roots  which  must  be  dug  deeply.  Gutting  them 
just  below  the  surface  aggravates  the  situation,  for  generally  three  or 
four  shoots  start  in  place  of  one. 

TURFING.  It  often  becomes  necessary  to  establish  a  lawn  under 
very  adverse  conditions,  in  which  case  it  is  best  to  use  sod  or  turf 
which  can  be  removed  from  a  pasture  or  vacant  lot.  With  a  spade  the 
turf  can  easily  be  cut  into  twelve-inch  squares  and  moved.  Especially 
is  this  advantageous  for  bordering  newly  established  paths  and  roads, 
i  or  where  narrow  strips  are  wanted  between  beds  of  flowers.  The  soil 
should  be  as  carefully  prepared  and  put  in  as  good  physical  condition 
as  for  new  lawns.  In  edging  walks,  the  cut  sod  should  be  a  little  lower 
than  the  adjacent  sown  area,  which  in  time  will  settle.  The  sod 
should  be  thoroughly  firmed  and  watered  so  that  the  grass  roots  are 
encouraged  to  immediately  start  growth  into  the  soil  below. 


Key 

No. 

Quan. 

i 

I 

2 

I 

3 

I 

4 

I 

S 

I 

6 

3 

7 

2 

8 

3 

8 

2 

9 

I 

10 

5 

II 

6 

12 

5 

13 

5 

14 

6 

IS 

«  7 

16 

6 

17 

5 

18 

6 

19 

7 

20 

9 

21 

8 

22 

7 

23 

6 

24 

4 

25 

S 

26 

3 

27 

5 

28 

6 

29 

6 

30 

8 

31 

9 

32 

7 

33 

7 

34 

S 

S 

6 

12 

37 

7 

38 

6 

39 

10 

40 

10 

41  v 

10 

42 

8 

43 

3 

44 

10 

45 

12 

46 

3 

47 

16 

48 

5 

49 

18 

SO 
51 

12 

16 

52 

6 

53 

10 

54 

12 

3 

6 

12 

57 

8 

58 

8 

59 

5 

60 

2 

61 

->  9 

62 

8 

63 

5 

64 

5 

GARDEN  GUIDE 

KEY  TO  PLAN  OPPOSITE 


Variety 

Populus  fastigiata 
Populus  fastigata 
Quercus  palustris 
Fraxinus  americana 
Acer  saccharum 
Gingko  biloba 

Acer  polymorphum  dissectum  rubrum 
Thuya  plicatum 
Juniperus  elegantissima  Leei 
Liquidambar  styraciflua 
Viburnum  tomentosum 
Lonicera  fragrant  issima 
Syringa,  named  varieties 
Hydrangea  paniculata 
Philadelphus  coronarius 
Rosa  rugosa 
Buddleia  Veitchiana 
Viburnum  plicatum 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Abelia  grand  iflora 
Rhododendron  album  elegang 
Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Rosa  rugosa 
Spiraea  Van  Houttei 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Weigela  Eva  Rathke 
Philadelphus  Lemoinei 
Spiraea  Van  Houttei 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Azalea  Hinodegiri 
Azalea  Hinodegiri 
Spiraea  arguta 
Kerria  japonica,  single 
Iris  Silver  King 
Hypericum  Moserianum 
Rosa  multiflora 
Phlox  divaricata 
Aquilegia  flabellata  nana  alba 
Stokesia  cyanea 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Paeony  Festiva  maxima 
Aster  amellus  Beauty  of  Ronsdorf 
Chrysanthemum  Julia  Lagravere' 
Pseony  Richardson's  grandiflora 
Delphinium  formosum 
Dicentra  spectabilis 
Helenium  Hoopesii 
Veronica  longifolia  subsessilis 
Phlox  Miss  Lingard 
Kerria  japonica,  single 
Hesperis  matronal  is 
Chrysanthemum  Golden  Mme.  Martha 
Weigela  Eva  Rathke 
Aquilegia  chrysantha 
Phlox  Rheinstrom 
Phlox  Ardense  Crete 
Syringa,  named  varieties 
Juniperus  virginiana 
Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Hibiscus  syriacus,  single 
Philadelphus  Mont  Blanc 


Common  Name 
Lombardy  Poplars 
Lombardy  Poplars 
Pin  Oak 
American  Ash 
Sugar  Maple 
Maidenhair  Tree 
Cut-leaved  Japanese   Maple 
Fern-leaved  Arborvitae 
Golden  Juniper 
Sweet  Gum 

Single  Japanese  Snowball 
Early  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Lilacs  • 

Late  Hydrangea 
Mock  Orange 
Japanese  Rose 
Butterfly  Plant 
Japanese  Snowball 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Hybrid  Abelia 
White  Rhododendron 
Pink  Rhododendron 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Japanese  Rose 
Drooping  Spiraea 
Snow  Garland 
Red  Weigela 
Mock  Orange 
Drooping  Spiraea 
Large  flowering  Hydrangea 
Snow  Garland 
Hybrid  Abelia 
Japanese  Azalea 
Japanese  Azalea 
Hybrid  Spiraea 
Yellow  Kerria 
White  Flag 
St.  John's  Wort 
Dwarf  Japanese  Rose 
Early  Blue  Phlox 
White  Columbine 
Stokes'  Aster 
Lavender  Flag 
White  Peony 
Michaelmas  Daisy 
Red  Chrysanthemum 
Peony 

Indigo  Larkspur 
Bleeding  Heart 
Early  Sneezewort 
Speedwell 
Early  Phlox 
Single  Kerria 
Sweet  Rocket 
Yellow  Chrysanthemum 
Dark  Red  Weigela 
Yellow  Columbine 
Pink  Phlox 
Early  White  Phlox 
Lilac 

Red  Cedar 
Pink  Phlox 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Pink  Rose  of  Sharon 
Mock  Orange 


NOTE — These  plans  are 
primarily  intended  as  sug- 
gestions for  the  laying  out 
of  places  of  different  sizes 
and,  of  course,  need  not 
necessarily  be  followed 
exactly.  An  experienced 
amateur  or  florist  could 
adapt  from  these  plans; 
that  is  their  main  purpose. 
The  planting  groups  are 
useful,  inasmuch  as  they 
show  the  relative  sizes 
allotted  for  each  subject 
and  where  these  might  be 
plante'd  to  afford  the  best 
effect.  The  purpose  is  to 
assist  in  estimating  the 
exact  quantity  that  would 
be  needed  in  the  develop- 
ment of  such  schemes  as 
are  shown. 


Planting  Plan 
Shows  a  good  treatment  of  a 
property  50x150  ft.,  using 
broken  flagstones  with  mor- 
tar joints  for  the  main  walk 
and  stepping  stone  walk  to 
the  service  quarters  and  the 
rear  lawn.  The  service  yard 
enclosed  by  hedge 

(See  Planting  Key  on  page  ##) 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


KEY  TO  PLAN  OPPOSITE 


Key 

s 

No 

Quan. 

Variety 

Common  Name 

I 

2 

,1 

Juniperus  virginiana 
Roses,  Hybrid  Tea  (Standards) 

Red  Cedar 

3 
4 
5 

125 
350 
3 

Hybrid  Tea  Roses 
Ligustrum  ovalifolium 
Spiraea  Van  Houttei 

Everblooming  Roses 
California  Privet 
Drooping  Spiraea 

Loniccra  Morrow  1  Key  N08-"6   9  ffl  a  5 

18   63  1  Tjn_u  Hnnpv<5iirt1p 

era  Morrowl  1  NO.  Plants-6    6    5     6 

0     0  r  r>usn  AioneysucKie 

u       O  ) 

7 

I 

Magnolia  acuminata 

Cucumber  Tree 

8 

5 

Viburnum  Opulus  sterilis 

Snowball 

10 

10 

Buddleia  Veitchiana 

Butterfly  Plant 

ii 

3 

Biota  orientalis  conspicua 

Columnar    Chinese    Arborv 

12 

10 

Desmodium  japonicum 

Purple  Bush  Clover 

13 

6 

Hydrangea  quercifolia 

Oak-leaved  Hydrangea 

14 

5 

Forsythia  suspensa 

Drooping  Golden  Bell 

IS 

i 

Red  Siberian  Crab 

Crab  Apple 

16 

14 

Diahthus  barbatus 

Sweet  William 

Bcrbcri-Thunbcnri   [KeyNo8-~17   18   31 

64)                                              TJ         L 

bergli  t  No.  Plants-  9     9     5 

—  ^  /    Japanese  ijaroerry 

19 

6 

Deutzia  Lemoinei 

Lemoine's  Deutzia 

20 

8 

Phlox  W.  C.  Egan 

Hardy  Phlox 

21 

10 

Iris  Silver  King' 

White  Flag 

23 

8 

Rose  Pink  Baby  Rambler 

Everblooming  Rose 

24 

12 

Rose  White  Baby  Rambler 

Everblooming  Rose 

25 

6 

Rose  Hermosa 

Everblooming  Rose 

26 

8 

Rose  Pink  Baby  Rambler 

Everblooming  Rose 

27 

5 

Rosa  rugosa 

Japanese  Rose 

29 

3 

Lonicera  fragrantissima 

Early  Honeysuckle    . 

30 

8 

Phlox  Miss  Lingard 

Early  Phlox 

32 

5 

Juniperus  Sabina 

Savin  Juniper 

33 

3 

Taxus  cuspidata 

Japanese  Yew 

34 

I 

Larix  europaea 

European  Larch 

35 

I 

Cornus  florida  rubra 

Pink  Dogwood 

36 

2 

Buxus  arborescens  (Globe) 

Globe-shaped  Box 

37 

4 

Taxus  cuspidata 

Japanese  Yew 

39 

I 

Magnolia  conspicua 

White  Magnolia 

40 

IS 

Hyoericum  Moserianum 

St.  John's  Wort 

41 

5 

Forsythia  suspensa 

Drooping  Golden  Beli 

42 

9 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Hybrid  Abelia 

42^ 

7 

Hydrangea  radiata 

Silver-leaved  Hydrangea 

43 

8 

Xanthorriza  apiifolia 

Yellow  Root 

44 

6 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Snow  Garland 

445 

4 

Syringa  vulgaris 

Lilac 

45 

I 

Apple,  Grimes'  Golden 

46 

5 

Philadelphus  coronarius 

Mock  Orange 

47 

9 

Spiraea  Margaritae 

Pink  Spiraea 

48 
49 

3 
I 

Juniperus  virginiana  glauca 
Liquidambar  styraciflua 

Blue  Cedar 
Sweet  Gum 

SO 

5 

Hydrangea  paniculata 

Late  Hydrangea 

Si 

9 

CEnothera  missouriensis 

Evening  Primrose 

52 

IO 

Iris  Blue  Boy 

German  Flag 

S3 
54 

9 
6 

Chrysanthemum  St.  Illoria 
Paeonia  Van  Houttei 

Pink  Chrysanthemum 
Crimson  Peony 

55 

6 

Funkia  caerulea 

Plantain  Lily 

56 

6 

Phlox  Diadem 

Hardy  Phlox 

57 

3 

Paeonia  festiva  maxima 

White  Peony 

58 

7 

Delphinium  chinense 

Chinese  Larkspur 

59 

IO 

Iris  pumila  aurea 

Dwarf  Flag 

60 

8 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Show  Garland 

61 

s 

Pyrus  Maulei 

Pink  Japanese  Quince 

62 

I 

Juniperus  Cannarti 

Pyramidal  Cedar 

65 

9 

Phlox  Eugene  Danzanvilliers 

Lilac  Phlox 

66 

12 

Iris  aurea 

Yellow  Flag 

67 

6 

Paeonia  grandiflora 

Pink  Peony 

68 

12 

Iris  pallida  dalmatica 

Lavender  Flag 

69 

8 

Chrysanthemum  Julia  Lagravdre 

Red  Chrysanthemum 

70 

Annuals  and  Perennials 

I 

Populus  fastigiata 

Lombardy  Poplar 

GARDEN  GUIDE 


£>—  o  c  _—  rt*-*n  ^  SfO  cy  «J  u  ..^  <uc;  a*  a>  o  c»  c  .*.-  c—  cT.-= 


PLANTING  PLAN 


PLANTING  PLAN 

Lot  190x190  ft.    Residence  lot  designed  to  provide  a  flower  garden,  garage,  enclosed 

service  yard  and  croquet  lawn.      The  interesting  features  are  a  terrace  walk, 

stepping  stone  walk  in  lawn,  and  unique  entrance  arrangement 

(See  Planting  Key  on  page  26) 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Key 

No.  Quart. 

1,2  and  3 
4  6 

6  and     31 

7  6 

8  7 

9  II 

10  IS 

11  7 

12  and    31 


20,  33  and  34 


21 

22 

23 

24 

25       . 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

32   and 

37   and 

38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 


II 
II 
7 
5 
5 
5 
5 
9 
5 

20 
7 

35 
54 
7 
3 
3 
3 
6 
3 
5 

I 

47  6 

48  and  49,  n 

51  8 
50  3 

52  I 

53  I 

55  5 

56  and  57,  ii 

58  3 

59  5 
62 


If 


and 


67 
68 
71 


5 
5 
5 
7 
5 

10 
70 
72 


74  and     75 


KEY  TO   PLAN  OPPOSITE 
Variety 

Syringas  in  variety 
Spiraea  Van  Houttei 
Hydrangea  arborescens  grandiflora 
Kerria.  japonica,  single 
Forsythia  viridissima 
Amygdalus  nana 
Exochorda  grandiflora 
Pyrus  japonica 
Lonicera  grandiflora 
Spiraea  Frcebelli 
Symphoricarpos  racemosus 
Berberis  vulgaris 
Lonicera  Marrowi 
Deutzia  gracilis 
Viburnum  Carlesii 
Retinispora  plumosus 
Viburnum  dentatum 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Spiraea  sorbifolia 
Wefgela  rosea 
Deutzia  Pride  of  Rochester 
Syringa  Pekinensis 
Cercis  japonica 
Caragana  arborescens 
Juniperus  virginiana 
Viburnum  tomentosum 
Rosa  rubiginosa 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Hypericum  moserianum 
Ligustrum  Regelianum 
Azalea  Hino-de-giri 
Berberis  purpurea 
Philadelphia  Avalanche 
Viburnum  Carlesii 
Syringa  Mme.  Casimir  Perrier 
Soiraea  Anthony  Waterer 
Syringa  Pres.  Grevy 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 
Desmodium  penduliflorum 
Weigela  Eva  Rathke 
Viburnum  Opulus  sterilis 
Hibiscus 

Dwarf  Fruit  Trees  (4  Apples  and  4  Pears) 
Forsythia  Fqrtunei 
Populus  fastigiata 
Pyrus  Ivonsis  (Bechtel's) 
Cotoneaster  Simonsii 
Ilex 

Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 
Mahonia  japonica 
Azalea  amosna 
Ilex  crenata  latifolia 
Ilex  crenata 

Mahonia  aquifolia  , 

Rhododendron  purpureum  elegans 
Ilex  glabra 

Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 
Juniperus  virginiana  and  other  Junipers 
Quercus,  Red  Oak,  Pink  Oak  and  Mossy  Cup  Oak 


Common  Name 
Lilac 

Van  Houttei  Spirsoa 
Large  Flower  Hybrid 
Corchorus 
Golden  Bell, 
Flowering  Almond 
Pearl  Bush 
Japanese  Quince 
Bush  Honeysuckle 

Snowberry 

Barberry 

Bush  Honeysuckle 

Dwarf  Deutzia 

Japanese  Cypress 
Arrowwood 
Japanese  Barberry 
Ash-leaved  Spiraea 
Pink  Weigela 
Pink  Deutzia 
Chinese  Lilac 
Japanese  Red  Bud 
Siberian  Pea 
Red  Cedar 

Single  Japanese  Snowball 
Sweet  Brier 
Thunberg's  Spiraea 
St.  John's  Wort 
Regel's  Privet 
Evergreen  Azalea 
Purple-leaved  Barberry 
Mock,Orange 

White  Lilac 

Pink  Spiraea 

Blue  Lilac 

Large  Flowering  Hybrid 

Bush  Clover 

Red  Weigela 

Snowball 


Golden  Bell 
Lombardy  Poplar 
Flowering  Crab 

Holly 
Rosy  Bay 

Evergreen  Barberry 
Evergreen  Azalea 
Japanese  Holly 
Japanese  Holly 
Evergreen  Barberry 
Rose  Bay 
Ink  Berry 
Rose  Bay 


76 
77 
78 
79 
80 
8i 
82 
83 


16 

7 

14 

7 

5 

6 

14 

600 


Cerasus 

Juniperus  Cannarti 

Lycium  barbarum 

Berberis  Thunbergii 

Symphoricarpos  racemosus 

Callicarpa  purpurea 

Ligustrum  Regelianum 

Deutzia  gracilis 

Assorted  Hardy  Perennials  and  Bulbs 


Flowering  Cherry 
Pyramidal  Juniper 
Washington  Bower 
Japanese  Barberry 
Snowberry     t 
Beauty  Shrub 
Regel's  Privet 
Dwarf  Deutzia 


PLANTING  PLAN 

Key 

No.        Quan.  Variety 

84  4  Standard  Cratsegus  roses  fl.  pi. 

85  200  Tea  and  Hybrid  tea  Rosea,  20  inches  apart 

86  i  Picea  Kosteriana  •» 

87  and     88  Retinispora  filifera  aurea 
89             i  Junioerus  Pfitzeriana 

QO  i  Taxus  cuspidata 

2  Buxus  pyramidalis 

7  Acer  saccharum 

i  Abies  Veitchii 


Common  Name 
Hawthorn 

Colorado  BlueSpruce 
Japanese  Golden  Cypress 
Spreading  Juniper 
Japanese  Yew 
Pyramidal  Box 
Sugar  Maple 


Plan'  ior[  a  property  of  twofacres.     (See  Planting  Key  on  page  88) 


CHAPTER    III 

Hedges  and  Fences 

MUCH  has  been   said   of  late  regarding  the  wholesale  manner 
in  which    fashion    has    dictated   that    every    sort   of  fence 
and  boundary  should  be  removed.     The  word   "  garden  " 
carries  with  it  the  meaning  of  enclosure.    We  in  America  are  getting 
more   and  more   away   from   having  even   our   own  dooryards   to 


Moderate  sized  country  house  facing  east.     It  is  on  a  slope,  which  is 

terraced.     Liberal  use  is  made  of  evergreens,  including  Rhododendrons. 

A  road  which  isn't  seen  in  the  picture,  winds  past  the  front  to  the  north 

(or  right  hand)  side  of  the  house 

ourselves.  Often  we  cannot  tell  where  our  province  leaves  off  and 
the  next  begins.  Marauders  have  full  sweep.  There  is  something 
homely  about  an  enclosure  with  some  degree  of  privacy.  Because 
the  city  is  abolishing  everything  for  such  privacy  we  wish  at  times  to 
be  by  ourselves,  and  the  country  is  chosen.  Hedges  or  boundaries  need 
not  be  emphasized,  but  let  us  not  fear  to  put  up  some  little  shrubbery 
to  shield  us  from  the  public  gaze,  and  let  us  enclose  parts  of  our 
own  domain  by  a  low  hedge.  Formidable  fences  are  not  advocated, 
but  private  areas  bounded  by  hedges  are  always  interesting. 

30 


HEDGES  AND  FENCES 


31 


Ungainly  and  displeasing.     The  grass  is  unkempt; 

the  shrubs  in  front  are    wild    growths  that    have 

sprung  up   of   their  own   accord,  yet   the   situation 

is  ideal  for   gardening 


Low  hedges  of  the 
graceful  Ligustrum 
Regelianum  (Regel's 
Privet)  are  very  hand- 
some; or  Berberis 
Thunbergii,  with  its 
red  berries  and  Fall 
coloring;  or  the  Jap- 
anese Quince,  which 
must  not  be  trimmed 
too  closely  if  it  is  to 
appear  pretty,  with 
its  deep  red  or  pink 
flowers;  or  the  Sibe- 
rian Dogwood  (Gor- 
nus  alba  sibirica). 

For  an  evergreen  hedge,  nothing  has  been  used  more  than  Box.  This 
is  not  hardy  in  all  parts  of  the  North,  and  is  a  very  slow  grower.  It 
is  almost  the  only  plant  to  use  except  the  Dwarf  Japanese  Yew  (Taxus 
cuspidata  var.  brevifolia).  It  is  very  hardy  and  has  hardly  become 
known  as  yet  in  American  gardens.  Ilex  crenata  microphylla  and 
Euonymus  radicans  can  also  be  used. 

Taller  hedges  are  best  made  of  the  Ibota  (Ligustrum  Ibota)  and 
common  Privet  (Ligustrum  vulgare).  The  California  Privet  (Ligus- 
trum ovalifolium)  should  not  be  planted  in  the  Northern  States;  it 
freezes  down  too  frequently  so  that  it  never  attains  any  character. 
The  Golden  Privet  is  very  bright  and  cheery,  but  hard  to  buy.  The 
Buckthorn  (Rhamnus  cathartica)  is  a  useful  and  not  easily  penetrable 
hedge.  Hedges  of  Hemlock,  Arborvitae  and  Norway  Spruce  are 

substantial  when  the 
taller  ones  are  wanted. 
The  Hemlock  is  the 
finest,  since  each 
plant  merges  into  the 
next  admirably. 

A  common  blun- 
der with  hedges  is  to 
locate  them  too  near 
walks  so  that  they 
are  injured  by  the 
constant  brushing 
against  them  by 
people  as  they  pass. 


Rough,        neglected       surroundings — no       planting 

attempted,   no   lawn,   no  shrubs,   no  flowers.     How 

much  the  dwellers  miss! 


3*  GARDEN  GUIDE 

The  soil  should  be  prepared  as  for  ordinary  shrub  planting.  At 
present,  the  practice  is  not  advised  of  placing  two  rows  of  shrubs  for  a 
hedge.  The  hedge  can  be  kept  cleaner  of  weeds  and  its  growth  is  more 
symmetrical  by  planting  only  one  row.  It  is  advisable  in  setting  a 
hedge  to  set  the  plants  so  that  they  touch  at  planting  time  This  means 
that  the  smaller  plants  as  Barberry,  will  be  planted  six  to  eight  inches, 
and  Privets  ten  to  twelve  niches  apart.  The  soil  must  be  thoroughly 
firmed  around  tHe  plants  at  setting. 

For  pruning  hedges,  see  chapter  on  pruning. 


Work-people's  dwellings  near  a  factory.  Happily  somebody  had  the  sense 
and  good  taste  to  clothe  them  with  Ampelopsis  and  Clematis.  The  hedges 
of  Rugosa  Roses  and  plantings  of  other  shrubs  help  to  make  the  row 
comfortable,  agreeable  and  home-like.  Neatness  is  exhibited  also  in  the 
grass  plots.  A  very  f ah-  example  for  similar  little  colonies 

Wooden  (board)  fences  are  employed  between  the  smaller  subur- 
ban yards,  or  it  may  be  spar  fences.  These  can  be  covered  with 
Rambler  Roses  and  other  climbers.  By  proper  pruning  and  thinning 
these  won't  get  too  heavy  or  cumbersome,  and  can  readily  be  held 
back  if  the  fence  requires  to  be  painted.  Iron  fences  and  galvanized 
or  alumina  plated  fences  are  also  used,  the  latter  being  strong  and 
durable.  Or  again,  a  soil  bank  can  be  thrown  up  and  be  planted  with 
trees  and  shrubs.  The  consideration  of  brick  and  stone  walls  hardly 
comes  within  the  scope  of  this  book. 


CHAPTER  IV 


Trees  and  Shrubs 


Same    place    as    the 

one     shown     below, 

but  with  the  shrubs 

removed 


TREES 

THERE  is  nothing  more  exalting  than  a  great  tree,  and  as  Prof. 
Bristow  Adams  suggests:  "The  wonderful  thing  about  the  tree  is 
that  it  keeps  growing  year  after  year  and  thus  takes  its  place 
as  the  oldest  living  thing."  As  such  we  should 
revere  it  as  a  choice  heritage,  or  if  we  find  no 
trees  growing  on  our  land  we  should  plant  them 
for  our  posterity.  A  story  indelible  in  the  mind 
of  the  writer  is  that  ,of  a  man  called  "Johnny 
Appleseed,"  who  was  very  fond  of  Apples,  and 
eating  them  as  he  walked  he  sowed  the  seed  by 
the  wayside.  Years  later  people  gathered  the 
fruit  of  his  pleasant  labor.  His  life  stands  a  great 
lesson  in  this  day  of  needed  reforesting  of  our  devastated  and  ill-cared- 
for  woodlands.  Some  of  us  can  never  plant  a  forest,  but  we  can  start 
the  growth  of  several  trees  that  may  become  perfect  specimens. 

Not  only  should  we  plant  trees,  but  we  should  care  for  them 
properly,  prune  and  spray  them  intelligently.  Because  we  may  be 
neglectful  one  year,  an  Elm  which  has  grown  for  a  hundred  years  may 
be  destroyed  by  the  Elm  beetle.  We  owe  it  to  the  community  to  try 
to  save  it.  Do  not  allow  the  removal  of  trees  by  telephone  com- 
panies or  when  excavating,  without  careful  thought. 

TREES  FOR  SHADE  AND  SHELTER  UPON  THE  LAWN.  The  trees 
each  of  us  would  choose  for  our  lawn  decoration  would  most  probably 
be  those  for  which  we  have  a  personal  liking.  From  childhood,  we 
reverence  a  certain  type  of  tree  either  because  of  fruits  it  bears,  or  its 
shape  or  its  Fall  colors.  Nothing  compares  with  the  American  Elm  for 
restful  beauty ;  especially  so  are  the  forms  which 
are  vase  shaped  and  with  foliage  to  the  soil.  The 
Tulip  tree  holds  a  strong  appeal;  the  foliage  is 
glossy,  and  the  tight  bark  of  the  older  trees  is 
beautiful.  What  is  more  effective  than  a  huge 
Red  or  Black  Oak  with  its  strong  and  often 
crooked  branches?  Such  a  tree  is  in  mind 
which  takes  up  as  much  room  as  the  little 

33 


Shrubs  dotted  on  a 

lawn,       leaving      no 

sweep  of  view 


34  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Dutch  house  beneath  it.  Specimen  Beeches,  which  are  branched 
to  the  soil,  though  usually  very  formal  in  shape,  are  yet  grace- 
ful. All  persons  progressive  enough  to  read  garden  books,  of 
course,  would  never  spoil  the  beauty  of  the  lawn  trees  by  removing 
the  lower  limbs.  It  is  peculiar,  but  many  persons  have  not  realized  that 
if  they  prune  off  the  limbs  of  a  young  tree  it  is  very  difficult  ever  to 
get  new  branches  to  start  out  from  below  again.  The  white  Birch  is 
graceful  and  girlish,  but  it  is  being  attacked  by  a  borer  to  such  an 
extent  that  it  is  best  not  to  advise  planting  it. 

Besides  the  large  trees,  there  are  a  great  number  of  very  useful 
smaller  growing  trees.  There  are  several  Grab  Apples  which  are  most 
excellent;  one  ol  the  prettiest  with  double  pink  flowers  is  Bechtel's 
Grab,  and  a  very  handsome  variety  of  Japanese  Grab  has  deep  red 
buds  which  on  opening  become  white  or  a  blush  pink.  The  beauty  of 
this  tree  in  bloom  is  overpowering.  Many  of  the  Thorn  Apples  are 
handsome.  They  require  a  great  deal  of  water  and  should  not  be 
planted  where  they  can  rob  the  perennials.  A  tree  known  but  little 
and  valued  because  of  its  very  superior  Autumn  tints,  is  the  Sorrel  tree 
(Oxydendron).  For  Autumn  effect,  some  Japanese  Maples  are  ex- 
cellent, as  also  is  the  Sweet  Gum.  One  must  avoid  great  spots  of  color  in 
trees,  for  too  great  an  abundance  of  purple  Plums  and  Beeches,  Japan- 
ese Maples  and  variegated  yellow  forms  will  destroy  the  dignified 
beauty  of  your  garden. 

EVERGREENS.  We  have  not  spoken  a  word  about  the  evergreens. 
They  are  ever  beautiful  and  ever  graceful  as  well  as  evergreen.  To  no 
other  trees  does  the  injunction  to  let  the  lower  limbs  grow  apply  so 
much  as  to  the  evergreens.  How  much  different  are  our  tastes  I  In 
the  evergreens  some  of  us  enjoy  the  informal,  look-as-though-they- 
were-weather-beaten  sorts.  We  enjoy  Pines  which  have  had  some 
accident  when  young  and  have  four  or  five  trunks  instead  of  one.  We 
admire  the  Austrian  Pine  at  any  stage  of  its  growth;  the  Pitch  Pine 
when  it  becomes  old  and  picturesque,  with  its  sturdy  short  branches, 
and  persistent  globular  cones,  and  the  long,  heavy  foliage  of  the  Red 
Pine.  Others  will  much  prefer  the  conical  Firs  and  Spruces.  The 
greatest  beauty  is  seen  in  a  perfect  specimen  of  Norway  or  Oriental 
Spruce,  branching  to  the  soil  and  hiing  with  huge  cones;  or  perhaps  the 
blue-green  or  grayish-green  foliage  of  the  Silver  Fir  is  a  great  attrac- 
tion, for  this  is  one  of  the  best  beautiful  trees  of  this  type  which  can 
be  grown.  The  latter  is  prettier  than  the  Colorado  Blue  Spruce,  which 
is  planted  far  too  much;  it  is  a  trifle  too  bright  and  has  such  stiff  foliage 
that,  in  the  minds  of  many,  it  does  not  compare  with  the  softer  and 
more  graceful  foliage  of  the  Silver  Fir. 

Among  the  smaller  growing  evergreens  we  have  the  Japanese 


TREES  IN  TOWNS  35 

Cypresses  or  Retinisporas,  the  foliage  of  which  is  graceful  and  the 
habits  charming.  The  Arborvitses,  especially  the  Chinese  species,  are 
very  handsome.  For  mass  planting,  the  Hemlock  is  admirable;  the 
foliage  is  most  dainty;  the  trees  merge  into  one  another  very  nicely. 
Recause  of  the  handsome  cones  and  the  soft  foliage,  the  Douglas  Fir 
is  to  be  admired.  The  Rocky  Mountain  forms  are  hardy,  but  the 
Coastal  Plain  form  is  not  best  for  planting  in  the  East.  The  Irish 
Juniper  is  most  slender  and  vertical.  Winter  snows  often  get  into 
this  tree,  spreading  the  branches  and  often  breaking  them.  It  would 
seem  well  to  tie  the  trees  up  a  little  before  Winter. 

STREET  TREES.  All  trees  are  not  adapted  for  street  planting. 
Some  of  them  are  too  rapid  growing,  so  that  the  wood  is  soft  and  the 
trees  short  lived.  The  Poplars  well  illustrate  this  class.  They  are 
miserable  trees,  for  they  break  easily  in  storms;  their  roots  enter  the 
sewer  pipes  and  they  heave  up  sidewalks.  Cities  which  have  good 
forestry  control  are  making  the  planting  of  this  tree  a  misdemeanor. 
The  soft  Maple,  the  Sycamore  Maple,  the  European  Ash,  Rirches, 
Willows,  Tulip  Tree  and  the  Rox  Elder  come  in  this  class.  Other  trees 
are  objectionable  because  their  attractive  fruits  and  flowers  are  apt 
to  be  picked.  In  this  case,  the  form  of  the  tree  is  usually  spoiled. 
Examples  of  trees  of  this  class  are  Chestnut,  Hickory,  Horse  Chestnut,' 
Catalpa,  black  or  common  Locust,  Magnolia,  Dogwood,  Mountain 
Ash.  The  Catalpa  and  Horse  Chestnut  are  really  objectionable  be- 
cause of  their  mussy  habit  of  dropping  flowers,  young  fruits  or  bud 
scales. 

Good  street  trees  stand  adverse  conditions,  are  more  or  less  free 
from  insects  and  diseases  and  furnish  shade,  but  not  too  dense;  they 
are  long  lived,  and  those  which  are  arching  are  preferred  by  many  to 
the  more  formal  globular  forms.  Prof.  Curtis  of  Cornell  University 
advises  the  following  trees  for  various  widths  of  street. 

For  narrow  streets  (less  than  sixty  feet  between  buildings),    the 
trees  should  be  planted  alternately  and  spaced  forty  feet  apart  and 
the  following  may  be  used  : 
PIN  OAK.    A  tree  of  medium  size,  more  slender  than  most  Oaks;  one  of 

best  trees  for  narrow  streets.    Especially  likes  moisture,  but  will  adapt 

itself  to  other  conditions.  , 

GREEN  ASH.     A  small  but  hardy  tree.     It  is  the  species  Fraxinus  penn- 

sylvanica,  var.  lanceolata. 
HONEY  LOCUST  (Gleditschia  triacanthos).     A  very  hardy  tree;  grows  well 

in  a  variety  of  soils.    The  foliage  is  light  and  does  not  cast  a  dense 

shade.     It  is  the  Locust  with  the  huge  thorns. 
TREE  OF  HEAVEN  (Ailantus  glandulosa).       This  tree  is  excellent  for  dry 

paved  tenement  sections  of  cities,  enduring   smoke  and  dust.     The 

wood  is  brittle  and  the  trees  are  dangerous  when  they  are  old. 


36 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


For  medium  width  streets  (from  sixty  feet  to  eighty  feet  between 
buildings),  the  trees  should  be  spaced  forty  feet  apart.     The  follow- 
ing may  be  used : 
ORIENTAL  PLANE.     An  excellent  street  tree.    It  is  of  rather  rapid  growth ; 

stands  smoke. 
NORWAY  MAPLE.     A  drought-resistant  and  smoke-enduring,  symmetrical 

and  tough  tree.    It  is  too  low-headed  for  streets  with  wires. 
MAIDENHAIR  TREE,  or  GINK  GO.    When  young,  this  tree  is  very  erect,  but 

when  it  becomes  older,  the  head  broadens  out. 

For  wide  streets  (over  ninety  feet  between  buildings),  the  trees 
should  be  spaced  fifty  feet  apart,  and  where  possible  they  should  be 
planted  on  the  lawn  six  feet  inside  the  sidewalk  line.  This  should  be 
agreed  upon  and  carried  out  uniformly  by  all  property  owners  on  the 
street.  The  following  may  be  used: 

AMERICAN  ELM.  The 
best  of  all  street 
trees  when  given 
room,  good  air  and 
water.  The  tree 
grows  80  to  100 
feet  tall. 

RED  OAK.  It  cannot 
grow  in  pavements, 
but  is  very  well 
adapted  to  wide 
suburban  streets, 
where  it  stands 
poor  and  dry  soil, 
but  does  not  thrive 
in  wet  situations. 

SUGAR  or  HARD 
MAPLE.  An  excel- 
lent tree  needing 
moisture  and  suffer- 
ing from  heat, 
smoke  and  dust.  It 
should  only  be  used 
on  the  wider  streets. 

PLANTING  TREES. 
The  best  method  of 
ascertaining  how  to 
plant  a  tree  properly 
is  to  observe  the  care- 
fully prepared  sket- 
ches. More  can  be 
seen  in  these  pictures 
than  can  be  expressed 
in  words,  The  main 


A  good  garden  composition.  A  free  use  is  made  of 
Pine  trees  and  conifers  as  well  as  deciduous  subjects. 
The  arch  of  Roses,  the  airy  summerhouse,  the 
flower-fringed  water  pool  and  other  features  here  are 
well  placed  and  excellent 


THE  USE  OF  SHRUBS 


37 


object  is  to  have  a  hole  large 
enough  for  the  roots,  and  to 
get  the  trees  just  a  little  deeper 
than  they  stood  in  the  nur- 
sery. An  important  necessity 
1  for  newly  set  trees  is  a  support. 
The  wind  whips  the  tree  about 
and  the  young  roots  are  easily 
loosened.  Stakes  should  be 
set  deeply  and  be  a  real  sup- 
port; or  the  tree  may  be  sup- 
ported by  wires,  taking  care 
that  these  wires  are  in  contact 
with  rubber  packings  on  the 
branches  so  that  they  are  not 
girdled.  The  proper  staking  of 


Wrong  method  of  planting.  In  the  left 
hand  picture  the  tree  is  obviously  placed 
too  high,  and  its  roots  are  also  cramped. 
In  the  other  case  the  soil  is  mounded  up 
too  much,  thus  shedding  off  the  water 


trees  is  a  very  important  matter. 


SHRUBS 

For  the  garden,  whether  large  or  small,  some  shrubs  are  neces- 
sary.   They  not  only  furnish  a  good  foliage  background,  but  some  are 

very  beautiful  for  their  flowers, 
which  are  not  only  decorative 
in  a  landscape  way,  but  are 
highly  useful  for  cutting.  They 
are  the  proper  sort  of  plants 
for  hedges  and  for  screening 
unsightly  objects. 

In  establishing  a  new 
planting  of  shrubs  give  the 
soil  good,  deep  preparation 
and  spade  in  a  liberal  supply 
of  stable  manure  and  bone- 
meal.  Let  the  planting  be  done 
either  in  the  Spring  or  Fall. 
The  Fall  is  preferred  because 
there  is  less  work  which  is 
urgent  at  that  time  of  the 
year.  They  should  have  an 
opportunity  to  get  their  roots 
This  tree  is  correctly  planted,  each  root  established  before  permanent 

well  spread,  and  neither  too  deep  nor  too       freezing.       In  the  Spring  they 
high.     The  dotted  lines  show  where  to  dig  i     /> 

to  lift  it  should     be     set    out    before 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


May.  After  the  growing  season  begins  they  are  somewhat  weakened 
by  not  being  in  the  soil;  besides,  they  should  be  well  estab- 
lished before  the  hot  weather  arrives.  To  make  a  good  effect  the 
shrubs  should  be  planted  almost  twice  as  closely  as  they  should  stand 
permanently.  It  is,  therefore,  advised  to  plant  only  part  of  your  place 
the  first  year  and  plant  it  thickly.  By  the  time  you  are  ready  to  plant 
the  other  part  you  can  draw  upon  the  first  planted  beds  for  your  stock. 
Gardens,  unlike  houses,  can  be  changed  and  rearranged  easily.  Shrubs 
rarely  suffer  from  transplanting  if  done  at  the  right  time  and  watered 
thoroughly. 

PRUNING.    See  chapter  on  Pruning.    The  proper  tune  of  pruning 
is  very  important 

CERTAIN  OF  THE  BEST  SHRUBS.    For  general  screen  planting  few 
,  shrubs  compare  with  the  Lilac.    It  is  ex- 

ceedingly hardy  and  the  flower  is  always 
a  favorite.  If  the  good  varieties  of  Lilacs 
are  used,  the  individual  blooms  will  be 
important.  The  only  way  to  grow  good, 
large  blooms  is  to  keep  all  the  suckers 
from  the  base  of  the  plant  removed; 
plants  so  treated  will  resemble  trees. 
Here  is  a  selection  of  varieties  of  Syringa 
vulgaris,  the  common  garden  Lilac 
by  Prof.  Ralph  Curtis: 


A  planting  diagram  of  the  National  Rose  Society.  The  whitened  parts  of 
the  stem  indicate  the  depth  to  which  a  standard  and  a  dwarf  Rose 
should  be  planted;  that  is,  the  same  depth  as  they  were  when  in  the  nursery 


FLOWERING  SHRUBS  39 

NOTE. — ""Indicates  a  good  selection;  **Indicates  first  choice.    Colored  varieties  should 

be  separated  by  white  varieties  unless  one  is  sure  the  colors  will  harmonize. 

White 

Early  single.  **Marie  Le  Graye,  Vestale  Bertha  Alexander,  Virginalis. 

Medium  single.      Alba  grandiflora,  **Frau  Bertha  Damman,  Princess  Alexander. 

Medium  double.     *Madame  de  Miller  (dwarf). 

Late  single.  Alba  pyramidalis. 

Late  double:  Madame  Lemoine,  **Miss  Ellen  Willmot. 

Pink  to  rosy  lilac 

Medium  single.      **Charles  X  (rosy  lilac),  Dr.  Regel,  Gloire  de  Moulins,  Lilarosa,  **Mach- 
rostachia,  Rubra  insignis. 

Medium  double.     Antoine  Buchner,  Comte  de  Kerchove,   *Emil  Lemoine,  Fuerst  Lichen- 
stein,  Maxime  Cornu. 

Late  single.  Othello.  / 

Blue  to  bluish  lavender 

Early  single.  **Bleu£tre,  Cserulea  superba. 

Medium  single.      Jacques  Callot,  *Justi,  Madame  Briot. 

Medium  double.     Doctor  Masters,  **President  Grdvy  (semi-double),  Victor  Lemoine. 

Late  single.  Gilbert. 

Deep  purple-red  to  reddish 

Early  single.  **Philemon. 

Medium  single.       *Danton,  Milton,  Pasteur,  Uncle  Tom. 

Medium  double.     *Le  Tour  Auvergne,  Marechal  de  Boussompierre,  Souvenir  de  L.  Thi- 
baut. 

Late  single.  *Aline  Mocquery,  **Congo,  Ludwig  Spaeth,  Toussaint  1'Ouverture. 

Late  double.  *Charles  Joly. 

Van  Houtte's  Spiraea  is  unrivaled  for  prolificacy  and  grace  of 
bloom.  The  white  clusters  of  bloom,  however,  are  soon  shattered  by 
the  rains  and  at  best  it  does  not  give  a  very  permanent  flower  effect. 
For  the  early  Spring  display  there  is  nothing  so  cheery  as  the  yellow 
flowers  of  the  Golden  Bell  (Forsythia),  of  which  there  are  several 
forms;  the  one  known  as  suspensa  is  most  effective  when  planted  at 
the  top  of  a  wall  or  rock  ledge  and  allowed  to  grow  down.  There  is 
a  road  in  the  city  of  Ithaca,  New  York,  which  is  most  attractive  in  the 
Spring  owing  to  its  wonderful  golden  display  from  this  shrub;  even 
after  flowering  the  foliage  retains  a  good  color.  The  upright  forms  need 
to  be  massed,  as  individuals  are  not  graceful. 

Excellent  beds  or  borders  are  arranged,  using  tall  shrubs,  such  as 
Red  Bud  (Gercis)  and  Hawthorns,  at  the  back,  with  Mock  Orange  and 
Wiegela  at  the  midground  and  edged  with  Deutzia  gracilis  or  Spiraea 
Thunbergii;  or  for  lower  beds,  the  use  of  Berberis  vulgaris  at  back  with 
Berberis  Thunbergii  and  Mahonia  in  foreground. 

For  a  bed  remaining  attractive  during  the  Winter  use  a  few  Ker- 
ria  japonicas,  which  have  green  twigs,  or  Cornus  alba  sibirica,  with  its 
red  twigs,  both  of  which  retain  their  color  all  Winter. 

There  is  a  great  group  of  shrubs  with  beautiful  foliage.  None 
equals  the  graceful  horizontal  branching  of  Regel's  Privet.  The  flow- 
ers are  not  very  conspicuous,  being  white,  but  they  are  followed  by 
attractive  black  berries.  The  dainty  narrow,  minute  foliage  of  the 
Spiraea  Thunbergii  is  excellent;  the  tiny  white  flowers  coming  in  early 
May  add  an  extra  charm.  In  the  region  of  central  New  York  the  tips  of 
branches  Winter-kill,  so  that  they  need  to  be  dressed  a  little  in  the  Spring. 


40  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Certain  shrubs  are  fascinating  because  of  peculiar  flowers,  seeds 
and  bark.  The  Sweet  Shrub,  Calycanthus,  or,  as  it  is  also  called,  the 
Strawberry  shrub,  is  very  interesting;  the  twigs  are  aromatic  all  Winter 
and  the  leather-petaled,  dull  red  flowers  are  very  individual  in  fragrance. 
Picked  today  they  have  one  fragrance,  perhaps  that  of  Strawberries;  to- 
morrow, the  fragrance  is  more  like  that  of  Apples.  The  Winged  Spindle- 
Tree  (Euonymus  alata)  bears  peculiar  corky  angles  on  the  twigs,  and 
a  funny  little  orange  fruit  inside  of  a  hard  red  husk. 

SHRUBS  WITH  EDIBLE  BERRIES.  Shrubs  which,  though  ornamen- 
tal, have  berries  which  are  good  to  eat,  are  interesting  not  only  to  you, 
but  to  the  birds  they  attract.  Many  persons  do  not  know  that  Bar- 
berries make  very  good  jam.  This  is  especially  good  served  with  the 
Thanksgiving  turkey  or  wild  game,  being  appropriate  as  well  as  tasty. 
Goumi  or  Elaeagnus  longipes  produces  an  elongated  red  berry  in  June 
or  July  which  is  excellent  picked  from  the  plant  and  eaten.  The 
Vaccmiums,  Blueberry  or  Huckleberry,  besides  being  ornamental,  are. 
as  we  all  know,  of  an  excellent  ffevor.  Elderberries  to  some  tastes 
make  a  pie  superior  even  to  Huckleberries.  The  red-fruited  variety 
should  not  be  eaten.  The  Nannyberry  (Viburnum  Lentago)  bears  a 
black  fruit  very  freely.  It  has  somewhat  the  flavor  of  Bananas.  Be- 
sides, there  are  the  Blackberries,  the  Raspberries  and  the  Currants, 
species  which  are  often  ornamental.  You  may  remark  that  you  could 
hardly  get  a  dish  of  some  of  these  berries  on  the  few  shrubs  you  could 
plant,  but  nevertheless  they  taste  good  and  it  is  very  interesting  to  the 
gardener  to  know  that,  some  of  the  good-looking  things  may  also  be 
good  to  eat. 

EVERGREEN  SHRUBS.  There  are  a  number  of  interesting  ever- 
green shrubs.  None  is  so  popular  as  the  Rhododendrons.  But  these 
like  a  soil  free  from  lime,  and  if  you  live  in  a  limestone  region,  before 
you  attempt  to  grow  them  dig  out  the  beds  to  a  depth  of  three  feet, 
filling  in  with  good  wood-soil  or  leaf  mold.  Give  good  drainage  by 
putting  a  layer  of  ashes  at  bottom  of  the  trench.  The  secret  of  success 
with  Rhododendrons  is  to  keep  the  roots  cool  and  moist.  In  Winter 
they  should  be  deeply  mulched  with  leaves.  In  Summer  they  must 
have  an  abundance  of  water.  In  some  Rhododendron  plantations  a 
"syringe"  of  water  plays  upon  the  beds  continually.  They  like  shade 
usually,  but  often  by  a  proper  choice  of  plants  which  have  been  growing 
in  the  sun,  they  succeed  just  as  well  in  the  sun.  In  Winter  a  frame- 
work of  burlap  gives  the  protection  from  the  wind.  They  should  al- 
ways be  massed,  for  Rhododendrons,  unless  in  beds  by  themselves,  are 
either  apt  to  receive  too  much  fussy  care  or  none  at  all.  The  best  early 
varieties  are  R.  roseum  elegans,  an  old  rose  colored  variety,  and  R. 
everestianum,  a  lavender,  both  flowering  in  late  May.  Then  in  early 


EVERGREEN  SHRUBS 


41 


June  we  have  album  elegans,  a  large  white;  Mrs.  G.  S.  Sargent,  a  pink; 
caractacus,  a  red;  purpureum,  a  purple;  and  Lady  Grey  Egerton,  a 
silvery  gray  lavender. 

There  are  a  number  of  Azaleas  which  are  most  brilliant,  the  best 
being  Azalea  pontica  and  A  mollis,  in  the  various  colors,  and  Azalea 
amoena  which  is  a  superb  claret  pink. 

A  shrub  which  has  proven  perfectly  hardy  is  the  Japanese  Holly 
(Ilex  crenata,  var.  microphylla) ;  it  grows  about  four  feet  tall  and  is 


A  garden  scene  in  Summer.  In  this  bosky  dingle  are  shrubs  of  many 
kinds  and  tall  umbrageous  trees.  The  Yuccas  are  grouped  for  the  season 
only,  likewise  the  Bananas.  Filamentosa  is  the  hardiest  of  the  Yuccas 

excellent.  The  American  Holly  is  hard  to  transplant,  but  seems  hardy 
as  far  north  as  Gape  God.  The  leaves  should  be  removed  and  plants 
transplanted  in  the  Spring.  The  Mountain  Laurel  (Kalmia  latifolia), 
which  has  been  proposed  as  the  national  flower  of  the  United  States,  is, 
perhaps,  the  best  evergreen  shrub  grown;  it  succeeds  a  little  easier  than 
Rhododendrons  and  without  protection  of  the  tops  retains  a  good  ap- 
pearance all  through  the  Winter.  The  Mahonia,  or  Oregon  Grape 
(Mahonia  aquifolium),  is  an  excellent  shrub;  it  succeeds  perfectly  if 
planted  so  that  leaves  are  shaded  from  Winter  sun.  It  surely  looks 
fresh,  green  and  glossy  in  Midwinter. 

GROUND  COVER  AND  Low  GROWING  SHRUBS.  Oftentimes  one 
wishes  a  ground  cover  of  very  low  shrubbery  in  the  shade,  and  few 
plants  are  as  valuable  as  Pachysandra  terminalis  for  this  purpose. 


42  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Vinca  minor  is  also  useful;  it  is  cheaper,  but  the  leaves  are  not  so  large. 
The  common  Juniper  (Juniperus  communis  adpressa)  is  also  valuable; 
it  requires  sun.  All  of  these  three  plants  are  evergreen.  Several  ex- 
cellent low  deciduous  shrubs  for  ground  cover  in  the  sunshine  are  the 
aromatic  dwarf  Sumach  (Rhus  aromatica),  Yellow  Root  (Xanthorrhiza 
apiifolia),  which  spreads  rapidly  by  underground  stems;  it  does  not 
thrive  in  limestone  soils.  Sweet  Fern  (Myrica  asplenifolia)  will 
thrive  on  the  driest,  sunniest  slopes;  Memorial  Rose  (Rosa  Wichur- 
aiana)  is  excellent,  bearing  numerous  white  flowers  in  late  June  or 
July;  English  Ivy  and  Euonymus  radicans  var.  vegeta  may  also  be 
used.  The  English  Ivy,  though  very  beautiful,  is  often  rather  tender; 
it  enjoys  a  moist  soil  and  shade  in  Winter. 

Low  GROWING  SHRUBS  FOR  VARIOUS  PURPOSES* 

Deciduous. 

Cotoneaster  horizontalis.    For  edging;  semi-evergreen. 

Daphne  Mezereum.     Flowers  light  purple,  appearing  in  early  April  before  the  leaves. 

There  is  a  white  variety.    An  erect  shrub  3  feet  high,  with  stout  branches,  which  are 

flexible  and  leathery  like  those  of  Leatherwood  (Dirca  palustris). 
Hypericum  Buckleyi.     Forms  neat,  compact  mats.     The  earliest  of  the  Hypericums. 

Flowers  yellow,  early  July. 
Lonicera  spinosa  [ — L.  Albertii].    Has  slender  twigs  and  narrow  linear  leaves.    Flowers 

pink,  late  May.    Plant  low,  from  1  to  2  feet  high. 
Rhododendron  canadense  (Rhodora).     A  slender  shrub,  2  feet  high.     Is  good  in  a  rock 

garden  with  a  ground  cover  of  the  following  species.    Flowers  rosy  purple,  appearing 

before  the  leaves  in  late  April  and  early  May. 
Vacdnium  pertnsylvanicum  (Early  Low  Blueberry).    From  6  to  12  inches  high.    Should 

make  good  dwarf  edging.    Flowers  white  in  early  May. 
Evergreen. 

Arctostaphylos  Uva-Ursi  (Bearberry).     A  creeping,  vine-like  shrub  with  small  leaves, 

abundant  in  Canada,  forming  broad  mats  over  rocky  ledges  and  slopes.    Berries  red. 
Bryanthus  (See  Phyllodoce). 
Calluna  vulgaris  (Scotch  Heather).    Flowers  pink,  July  and  August.    There  is  a  white 

variety. 

Chimaphila  umbellata  (Prince's  Pine,  or  Popsissewa).    Somewhat  resembles  Pachysandra, 
Cotoneaster  adpressa  and  (7.  microphylla.     Resemble  C.  horizontalis,  mentioned  above, 

but  are  more  dwarf  and  evergreen.    Both  have  a  neat  habit  and*  glossy  foliage.    May 

not  be  hardy  everywhere,  but  should  be  tried  for  low,  stiff  edging. 
Daphne   Cneorum    (Garland    Flower).     Dense   and    compact.     Pink   flowers   in    May. 

Excellent  for  edging.     From  6  to  12  inches  high.     Twigs  flexible  and  leathery,  as 

those  of  D.  Mezereum,  described  above. 
Dendrium  [ — Leiophyllum]  buxifolium  (Sand  Myrtle.)     A  dense  shrub,  to  3  feet  high. 

There  is  a  low,  tufted  form,  var.  prostratum.     Flowers  w,hite  or  blush  in  May. 
Empetrum  nigrum  (Black  Crowberry). 

Erica  carnea  (Hardy  Spring  Heath.)    Pink  in  April  and  May.    From  6  to  12  inches  high. 
Gaultheria  procumbens  (Wintergreen,  or  Checkerberry.)    Red  berries.    Leaves  have  good 

flavor. 

Gaylussada  brachycera  (Box  Huckleberry).     Very  dwarf  and  compact. 
Juniperus  chinensis  var.  procumbens.    An  excellent  low  Juniper. 
Juniperus  Sabina  var.  tamariscifolia.     A  very  neat  Juniper  for  edging. 
Leiophyllum.     (See  Dendrium.) 
Lycopodium  obscurum  (Ground  Pine).    A  native  Club  Moss  related  to  Trailing  Christmas 

Green  (L.  complanatum],  but  with  stems  erect  and  treelike,  to  12  inches  high. 
Mitchella  repens    (Partridge  Berry).     This  and  the  preceding  are  two  creeping,  vine- 
like  plants  excellent  for  the  rock  garden.     Moneywort  has  bright  yellow  flowers  in 

June,  and  Partridge  Berry  has  handsome  red  berries  all  Winter. 
Pachysandra  terminalis. 

*List  revised  from  Curtis,  Cornell  Bulletin  361. 


SELECTIONS  OF  SHRUBS  43 

PhyUodoce  [ — Bryanthus]  c&rulea  (Mountain  Heath).  A  low  alpine  shrub,  from  3  to  6 
inches  high.  Flowers  pinkish  purple,  July. 

PotentiUa  tridentata.  Plant  from  4  to  8  inches  high,  forming  thick  mats.  Foliage  bronz- 
ing in  Winter.  Flowers  white,  Strawberry-like. 

Rhododendron  [ — Azalea  hinodegira.}  A  low  shrub,  better  than  R.  am&na,  leaves  large, 
and  flowers  a  brilliant  red.  Late  May  and  early  June. 

BUSHES  FOR  WET  PLACES.  When  planting  grounds  it  is  often 
desired  to  obtain  shrubs  for  planting  in  wet  places,  some  that  will  at- 
tract either  by  their  flowers,  berries  or  other  features. 

There  is  Glethra  alnifolia,  a  shrub  which  always  comes  to  mind 
when  this  subject  is  thought  of,  because  of  the  profuseness  of  its  flower- 
ing and  the  fragrance  of  its  blooms.  It  blooms  in  Midsummer  or  later, 
the  bush  is  usually  covered  with  panicles  of  white  flowers  of  peculiar 
fragrance.  In  its  wild  state  it  is  usually  found  on  the  banks  of  streams, 
or  otherwise  near  water,  so  that  it  is  well  suited  when  planted  in  similar 
positions.  There  is  another  native  Glethra,  the  G.  acuminata,  but  the 
alnifolia  is  the  best  for  the  purpose. 

The  White  Fringe,  Ghionanthus  virginica,  is  at  home  in  a  wet 
place.  It  is  wild  in  situations  which  are  almost  under  water  at  times. 
This  has  white  flowers,  too,  but  they  come  early  in  Spring  with  the 
leaves,  and  because  of  the  fringelike  appearance  of  the  flowers  the  shrubs 
are  called  Old  Man's  Beard  in  some  portions  of  the  South. 

Another  shrub  of  great  merit  is  the  Magnolia  glauca,  the  one  of 
our  swamps  and  low  grounds,  which  is  almost  evergreen,  and  famous 
everywhere  for  the  fragrance  of  its  flowers.  It  is  often  found  side  by 
side  with  the  White  Fringe.  Both  of  these,  though  often  listed  as 
shrubs,  grow  to  the  size  of  a  small  tree  in  time,  if  kept  to  one  shoot 
when  young. 

The  Bayberry,  Myrica  cerifera,  is  good  for  a  wet  position;  it  de- 
lights in  damp  ground.  When  grown  in  groups  where  one  plant  shelters 
the  other  they  are  somewhat  evergreen  in  character.  The  flowers  are 
greenish  white  and  small,  making  no  display  to  attract,  but  the  berries 
when  ripe  are  covered  with  a  white,  waxy  substance,  making  the 
clusters  of  them  conspicuous  and  attractive. 

Found  in  similar  situations  to  the  above  mentioned  shrubs  is  the 
Azalea  viscosa,  a  species  renowned  for  the  fragrance  of  its  blooms. 
The  flowers  are  pure  white,  expanding  in  July  and  August.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  admired  of  Azaleas,  yet  not  common  in  cultivation. 

In  Vacciniums  (Blueberries) ,  a  good  one  for  wet  ground,  is  V 
corymbosum.  It  delights  in  such  situations.  In  Spring  it  presents  to 
view  beautiful  clusters  of  white  flowers.  Edible,  dark  colored  berries 
follow;  later  on,  with  the  approach  of  Autumn,  the  foliage  becomes  of 
a  lovely  orange  bronze  color.  It  is  then  almost  foremost  of  all  the  fo- 
liage trees  and  shrubs  famous  for  their  Autumnal  display  of  color. 


44 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


These  six  shrubs  would  give  one  a  good  start  in  planting  a  wet  place, 
but  they  do  not  exhaust  the  list;  many  more  could  be  added. 

FLOWERING  THE  BRANCHES  OF  SHRUBS  INDOORS.  Many  persons 
know  that  Pussy  Willow  when  brought  into  the  house  opens  very 
nicely,  but  few  avail  themselves  of  the  pleasures  in  store  for  them  by 
cutting  the  branches  of  a  great  many  shrubs  and  trees  early  in  the 
Spring  or  late  Winter,  and  bringing  them  indoors.  The  nearer  Spring 
the  sooner  will  the  buds  pop  into  bloom.  Shrubs  should  be  chosen 
which  bloom  upon  wood  of  previous  season  and  almost  all  early  Spring 
blooming  trees  and  shrubs  can  be  used.  The  shoots  may  simply  be 
placed  in  water  and  allowed  to  start  naturally,  but  if  they  are  placed 
in  a  basement  and  sprayed  several  times  a  day  with  warm  water  they 
will  open  much  more  quickly.  The  forced  branches  lend  them- 
selves to  "Japanesy"  arrangements  and  have  a  light  grace  which  is 
very  charming. 

The  following  shrubs  and  trees  are  useful  for  treatment  this  way : 

Light 


Bladder  Senna  (Colutea  arborescens) . 

yellow. 

Cornelian  Cherry  (Cornus  Mas).     Yellow. 
Deutzia  gracilis.     White. 
Flowering  Almond.    (Prunus  triloba).  Pink. 
Flowering  Currant  (Ribes  aureum) .  Yellow. 
Fragrant  Honeysuckle   (Lonicera  fragrant- 

issima).    White  and  pinkish. 
Golden  Bell  (Forsythia  suspensa,  viridissima, 

Fortunei).     Forces  very  quickly.  Yellow. 
Hazle  (Corylus  americana).     Brown. 
Japanese  Cherry  (Cerasus  rosea  plena) .  Pink. 
Japanese  Quince  (Cydonia  japonica).    Pink 

and  red,  very  beautiful. 


Kerria  japonica.     Yellow. 

Mock  Orange  (Philadelphus) .     White. 

Parkman's  Crab  (Pyrus   Halliana).     Deep 

pink. 

Pea  Tree  (Caragana  frutescens) .    Yellow. 
Pearl  Bush  (Exochorda  grandiflora) .    White. 
Pussy     Willow     (Salix    discolor).       Gray. 

Forces  very  quickly. 
Red  Bud  (Cercis  canadensis  and  japonica) . 

Pinkish  lavender. 
Shad    Bush    (Amelanchier    canadensis    and 

botryapium).     White  and  pink. 
Thunberg's    Spiraea    (Spircsa    Thunbergii) 

White,  light  and  airy;  very  good. 


LIST  OF  BLOOMING  DATES  OF  TREES,  SHRUBS 
AND  CLIMBERS 

T-TREE  S-SHRUB  C-CLIMBER 

*Indicates  that  blooming  period  is  likely  to  extend  beyond  the  date  under  which  it  is  classed 

(Revised  from  a  list  by  Samuel  N.  Baxter) 
April  1  to  15 


Botanical  Name 
*Daphne  Mezereum  album 

Lonicera  fragrantissima. . 

Cornus  Mas 

*Magnolia  stellata 

*Forsythia  suspensa 

*Acer  rubrum 

*Acer  platanqides 

*Benzoin  sestivale 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 
April  16  to  30. 

Magnolia  conspicua Yulan 

Magnolia  Soulangeana Soulange's  Magnolia 

Magnolia  Kobus  Japanese  Magnolia 

Cerasus  Avium  alba,  and  rosea 

plena Double-flowering  Cherry.. T 


Common  Name 
.  .  Mezereon  Daphne 
.  .  Bush  Honeysuckle. ..."..  .S 

.  .  Cornelian  Cherry S 

.  .  Dwarf  Magnolia S 

.  .  Weeping  Golden  Bell S 

..Red  Maple •. .  .T 

.  .  Norway  Maple 

.  .Spice  Bush S 

.  .Thunberg's  Spiraea. 


rouj, 

S 

s 

Height 
»     (M 
3 
6 

Color  of 
Flowers 
White 
White 

.S 

.s 

.8 
.T 
.T 

s 

15-20 
5-8 
8 
15-100 
100 
10-15 

Yellow 
White 
Yellow 
Pink 
Yellow 
Yellow 

T 
.T 
.T 

5 

50 
15 
.     80 

White 

White 
Pink 
White 

25 


White,  pink 


THE  FLOWERING  PERIOD  OF  SHRUBS 


45 


Cerasus  Sieboldi  rubra  plena.. .  .  Double-flowering  Cherry. T  15-25  Red 

*Cercis  japonica Japanese  Judas  Tree S  15-50  Pink 

*Cercis  canadensis Red  Bud T  20  Pink 

*Andromeda  japonica Japanese  Fetter  Bush S  10-30  White 

*Leucothoe  Catesbsei Leucothoe S  6  White 

*Pyrus  japcmica Japanese  Quince S  3-4  White,  red 

*Spirsea  prunifolia Bridal  Wreath S  6  White 

*Citrus  trifoliata Hardy  Trifoliate  Orange. .  S  15-20  White 

*Prunus  (Amygdalus)  Persica.. .  .  Flowering  Peach T  10-25  White,  yel.,  pk 

*Prunus  (Amygdalus)  nana Flowering  Almond S  5  White,  pink 

*Sassafras  officinale Sassafras. T  30-60  Yellow 

*Amelanchier  Botryapium Juneberry,  or  Shad  Bush .  S  25  White 

*Exochorda  grandiflora Pearl  Bush S  6-8  White 

Ostrya  virginiana Iron  wood  (catkins) T  30 

*Syringa  oblata Early  Lilac S  12  Blue 

*Ribes    aureum   and   sanguin- 

eum Flowering  Currant S  4-5  Yellow,  red 

*Prunus  Pissardi. Purple  Plum S  15-25  White 

Corylopsis  pauciflora S  2-3  Yellow 

*Rhus  aromatica Aromatic  Sumac S  3-8  Yellow 

May  1  to  15 

*Staphylea  colchica Bladder-nut S  12  White 

*Rhodotypos  kerrioides White  Kerria S  6  White 

*Kerria  japonica Globe  Flower S  5-10  Yellow 

*Cqrnus  florida  and  rubra Flowering  Dogwood T  20  White,  pink 

Wistaria  sinensis  and  alba Chinese  Wistaria C  20  White,  blue 

Pyrus    (Malus)    Parkmanni 

(Halliana) Flowering  Apple T  20  Pink 

Pyrus  corqnaria,  loensis Flowering  Apple T  20  Pink 

Pyrus  floribunda  atropurpurea 

and  Schiedeckeri Flowering  Apple T  10-15  Red 

Magnolia  Lennei  and  Meehanii .  Purple  Magnolias T  10-15  Purple 

Magnolia  Fraseri Eraser's  Magnolia T  40  White 

Magnolia  gracilis  and  purpurea..  Bush  Magnolias S  10  Purple 

*^Esculus  Hippocastanum White  Horse  Chestnut.. .  .T  60-80  White 

*JEsculus  ru'bicunda Red  Horse  Chestnut T  20-40  Red 

*Xanthoceras  sorbifolia Chinese  Flowering  Chest- 
nut  S  15 '  White 

Azalea  amcsna , Evergreen  Azalea S  1-8  Pink 

Azaleas  pontica  and  mollis Ghent  and  Chinese 

Azaleas S  3-5  White,  yellow 

Azalea    nudiftora Wood  Honeysuckle S  5-8  Pink 

Azalea    Vaseyi Carolina  Azalea S  5-8  Pink 

Rhodora  canadensis, Rhodora                                 S  2  Pink 

*Elseagnus  longipes  and  umbel- 

latus Silver  Thorn S  6-12  White 

*Cerasus  Padus,  pennsylvanica 

and  pumila Bird  and  Dwarf  Cherries .  T  10-15  White 

Cratsegus  coccinea White  Thorn S-  15  White 

Caragana  arborescens  and 

pendula Siberian  Pea S  6-8  Yellow 

Halesia  tetraptera Silver  Bell,  or  Snowdrop. . .  S  20  White 

*Berberis  vulgaris,  purpurea 

and  Thunbergii Common,   Purple  and 

Japanese  Barberry S  4-6  Yellow 

Asimina  triloba Pawpaw T  10-40  Brown 

Akebia  quinata Akebia C  12  Purple 

*Lonicera  grandiflora  rosea  and 

Morrowii Bush  Honeysuckle S  6  White,  pink 

Mahonia  aquifolia Oregon  Grapes S  2-4  Pink 

*  Paulo  wnia  imperialis Empress  Tree T  40  Purple 

Pavia  rubra Dwarf  Horse  Chestnut       T  5-7  Red 

*Viburnum  Opulus  sterilis Common  Snowball S  8  White 

*Viburnum  tomentosum Single  Japan  Snowball S  6-8  White 

*  Viburnum  Sieboldi Siebold's  Snowball S  6  White 

*Viburnum  Lantana Wayfaring  Tree S  10-15  White 

*Robinia  hispida  rosea Rose  Acacia S  4-5  Pink 

*Weigela  rosea  and  Candida Diervillas S  4-5  White,  pink 

*Deutzia  Lemoinei  and  gracilia.  .Dwarf  Deutzia S  3-5  White 

Daphne  Genkwa  and  Cneorum.  Daphne .  S  1  Pink 


46 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


*Calycanthus  floridus  

.  .  Sweet  Shrub                        S 

3-5 

*Sorbus  Aucuparia  

.  .  Mountain  Ash  T 

30-40 

White 

*Fraxinus  Ornus  . 

25 

White 

*Genista  scoparia  

.  Scotch  Broom  S 

3 

Yellow 

*Syringa  vulgaris  and  alba 

12-15 

White 

*Syringa  rothomagensis  (chi- 
nensis)  

Rouen  Lilac                        S 

10-12 

Blue 

*Syringa,  French  named  va- 
rieties   

.  .  Improved   Single   and 
Double  Lilac  S 

10-12 

White  pk    etc 

Sambucus  pubens  

.  .  Red-berried  Elder               S 

6-8 

White 

*Tamarix  africana.  .  . 

Tamarisk                              S 

15 

Pink 

*Spiraea  Van  Houttei.  
Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia 

.  .Van  Houtte's  Spiraea  S 
Yellow  Root                        S 

5-6 
10-20 

White 

May  16  to  30 

Azalea  calendulacea  

.  .  Flame  Azalea  S 

4-10 

Red 

Staphylea  trifoliata  and  Bu- 
inalda  

American  and  Japanese 

"Clematis  Named  Hybrids  
*Robinia  pseudo-acacia 

Bladder-nut  S 
.  .  Large-flowering  Clematis  .  C 
Yellow  or  Black  Locust     C 

6-8 
80 

White 
White,  pk.,  blue 
White 

*Crataegus  Oxyacantha  and 
Paul's  Scarlet  
*Chionanthus  virginica  

.  .English  Hawthorns  S 
.  .White  Fringe                       S 

15-20 
20-30 

Red,  white,  pk 
White 

Neviusia  alabamensis  
*Laburnum  vulgare  
*Rosa  rugosa  and  alba  
"Rhododendron  hybrids  
*  Viburnum  plica  turn  
*Syringa  persica  and  alba  
Syringa  Emodi  (villosa)  
Syringa  pubescens  

..Snow  Wreath  S 
..Golden  Chain  T 
.  .Japanese  Roses  S 
.  .Named  Hybrids  S 
.  .Japan  Snowball  S 
.  .Persian  Lilacs  S 
.Lilac  S 
Lilac.  ...                       S 

3-6 
20 
3-5 
6-12 
6-8 
5-10 
8 
6 

White 
Yellow 
White,  pink 
White,  pk.,  red 
White 
White,  blue 
Pink 
White 

Cerasus  serotina.  .  . 

Wild  Cherry                         T 

80 

White 

Spiraea  Reevesiana  

.Reeves'  Spiraea  S 

4 

White 

Cornus  alba.  . 

8-10 

White 

*Viburnum  Opulus  
*Viburnum  prunifolium  
Photinia  villosa  

.High  Bush  Cranberry  S 
Photinia                                S 

12 
15 
15 

White 
White 
White 

*Liriodendron  tulipifera  

.Tulip  Tree.  .                        T 

150-190 

Yellow 

Magnola  tripetala 

Umbrella  Tree                     T 

40 

White 

*Weigela  Eva  Rathke  

Crimson  Diervilla                S 

5-6 

Blue 

Wistaria  multijuga  and  alba  .  . 
*Styrax  obassia 

.Japan  Wistarias  C 
Storax                                    T 

30  • 

White,  purple 
White 

*Stephanandra  flexuosa  
*Philadelphua  coronarius. 

.  Stephanandra  S 
Mock  Orange                       S 

5 
8-10 

White 
White 

*Philadelphus  Leinoinei 

3-6 

White 

June  1  to  15. 

*Bignonia  capreolata  
*Hydrangea  scandens  
*Lonicera  Hal  lean  a  
*Lonicera  sempervirens.  .    . 

.Trumpet  Vine  C 
.  Climbing  Hydrangea  C 
.Ha'l's  Honeysuckle  C 
Coral  Honeysuckle              C 

50 
80 
15 
30 

Yellow 
White 
White,  yellow 
Red 

Robinia  viscosa 

30-40 

White 

Gleditschia  triacanthos.  .    . 

Honey  Locust                     T 

70-140 

White 

Andromeda  (Pieris)  Mariana.  . 
Halesia  diptera  
1  Cladrastis  tinctoria 

.  Stagger-Bush  S 
.Silver  Bell,  or    Snowdrop.  S 
Yellow  Wood                      T 

30 
30-40 

White 
White 
White 

[  Crateegus  crus-galli  

Cockspur  Thorn       .    .       S 

15-20 

White 

i  Kalmia  latif  olia  and  angusti- 
t-   folia    . 

5-8 

Pink 

Syringa  pekinensis 

Chinese  Lilac                      S 

15 

White 

Syringa  Josikgea  

.Lilac  S 

12 

Purple 

Magnolia  acuminata  
Magnolia  macrophylla  
'  Magnolia  glauca  

.Cucumber  Tree  T 
.Broad-leaf  Magnolia.  .  .  .T 
Sweet  Bay      T 

90 
50 
10-12 

White 
White 
White 

*Deutzia  crenata  and  Pride  of 
Rochester.  .  . 

.Tall  Deutzia.  .  .               ,  .  .S 

6 

White.  Dink 

THE  FLOWERING  PERIOD  OF  SHftURS 


47 


*Ligustrum  Regelianum  and 
vulgare 

Viburnum  den ta turn 

Viburnum  acerifolium 

Styrax  japonica 

Stuartia  japonica 

Pterostyrax  hispida 

*Sambucus  racemosus  and 

laciniata 

Rosa  multiflora  and  rubiginosa 

Colutea  arborescens 

*Cornus  paniculata  and  sericea. 

Wistaria  frutescens 

Wistaria  magnifica.' 

Physocarpus  (Spiraea)  opulifolia 

*Spirsea  Billardi ' 

*Amorpha  fruticosa  and  canes- 
cens 

*Ceanothus  americana 

Gymnocladus  canadensis 

June  16  to  30. 

*Hydrangea  quercifolia 

*Hydrangea  grandiflora  alba.. 

*Spiraea  sorbifolia 

*Rosa  lucida  and  setigera .... 
*Rhododendron  maximum.. . . 
*Spirsea  Bumalda  and  A. 

Waterer 

*Tilia  americana 

Catalpa  speciosa. 

Catalpa  bignonoides 

*Rhus  Cotinus 


Regal    and     Common 

Privet S  8-10  White 

Arrow-wood S  15  White 

Maple-leaved  Viburnum.. S  6  White 

Japanese  Storax S  30  White 

Stuartia S  50  White 

Wistaria  Tree T  25  White 

Elderberry S  10  White 

Japanese  and  Sweet  Brier 

Rose S  10-12  Pink 

Bladder  Senna S  10-15  Pink 

Cornel  and  Silky  Dog- 
wood  S  5-8  White 

.  Native  Wistaria C  30-40  Blue 

Native  Wistaria C  30-40  Blue 

Nine  Bark S  9-10  White 

Billard's  Spiraea S  5-6  Pink 

False  Indigo  and  Lead 

Plant , S  10-15  Blue 

Jersey  Tea S  2-3  White 

Kentucky  Coffee T  100  White 


*Rubus  odoratus 

*Hydrangea  paniculata  (Early 

flowering) 

*Hydrangearadiata 

*Hydrangea  arborescens 

*Hydrangea  hortensia 

*Hydrangea  japonica  cserulea. 
*Yucca  filamentosa 

Azalea  arborescens 

Azalea  viscosa 


.  Oak-leaf  Hydrangea S  6  White 

.  Hydrangea S  25  White 

.  Ash-leaf  Spiraea S  4  White 

.  Prairie  Rose S  4-6  Pink 

.  Rosebay  or  Great  Laurel .  S  10-35  Pink 

.  Spiraea S  2  Pink 

.  American  Linden T  80  White 

.Catalpa T  100  White 

.Catalpa T  20-50  White 

.Purple  Fringe  or  Mist 

Bush S  10-20  Purple 

.  Flowering  Raspberry S  3-6  Pink 

.  Single  Hydrangea S  20  White 

.  Wild  Hydrangea S  6  White 

.  Wild  Hydrangea S  4-10  White 

.  Japanese  Hydrangea S  Pink,  blue 

.  Japanese  Hydrangea S  8  Pink,  blue 

.Adam's  Needle S  5  White 

.  Fragrant  Azalea S  8-20  White 

.  Small  White  Azalea S  4-8  White 


DIFFERENCE  BETWEEN  NURSERY  STOCK  AND  MATERIAL  GATHERED 
FROM  THE  WILD.  Trees  and  shrubs  in  nurseries  are  so  cultivated  and 
transplanted  that  their  roots  make  a  symmetrical  growth.  The  roots 
are  thus  short  and  branching  because  they  search  equally  on  both 
sides  of  the  row  for  food.  In  the  case  of  forest  specimens  they  may 
have  to  go  several  feet  for  an  opportunity  to  get  food;  furthermore, 
the  only  opportunity  for  food  may  be  in  one  direction.  The  roots 
are  often  very  long  and  unbalanced,  and  when  the  trees  are  dug  the 
roots  are  seriously  shortened.  The  precaution  in  using  material 
from  the  woods  should  be  to  carefully  prune  the  tops  proportionately, 
supply  water  and  give  extra,  painstaking  treatment. 


48 


CHAPTER  V 

The  Rose  Garden 


TVTO  one  really  has  a  garden  without  some  Roses.  No  one  ever  wrote 
.1\|  about  gardens  without  giving  elaborate  directions  for  the  care 
of  the  Rose  garden.  All  sorts  of  Roses  are  admirable — even,  in 
a  passing  way,  the  freakish  attempts  at  improvement  such  as  the  blue 
and  the  green  Roses.  Everyone  has  said  the  same  thing  about  the  lo- 
cation of  the  Rose  garden,  that  it  must  be  sheltered  from  the  wind, 
but  not  surrounded,  so  that  the  air  may  have  some  circulation.  It 
must  not  be  in  the  proximity  of  large,  water-robbing  trees.  It  should 
have  sun  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  But  everyone  cannot  locate  his 
Rose  garden  in  an  ideal  spot.  A  few  hardy,  robust  kinds  can  be 
grown  under  rather  adverse  conditions.  Those  we  mention  are  favor- 
ites in  the  North;  many  others  can  be  tried  in  less  severe  climates. 
RRIER  ROSES.  There  is  a  huge  group  of  shrubby  or  Brier  Roses. 
On  the  whole,  they  are  hardy  and  grow  under  adverse  conditions. 
Some  of  them  will  be  useful  for  making  a  hedge.  If  a  Rose  garden  is 
to  be  made,  plan  it  in  the  Winter  and  make  preparations  to  surround 
it  with  a  row  of  briers.  No  Rose  is  hardier,  freer-blooming  and  more 
disease-resistant  than  the  Japanese  Rugged  Rose,  or  Rosa  rugosa. 
Bearing  single  and  double,  crimson,  pink  or  white  flowers,  it  is  the  first 
one  to  place  in  the  hedge.  Of  charming  fragrance  and  exquisite  colors 
are  the  Penzance  hybrids.  Lord  Penzance,  an  English  lawyer, 
strove  to  be  a  success  at  the  bar,  but  his  name  will  live  as  a  hybridizer 
of  Roses  long  after  people  have  forgotten  him  as  a  lawyer.  He  used  the 
standard  garden  varieties  of  Roses  and  crossed  them  with  the  Sweet 
Brier.  The  result  is  a  wonderful  group  of  Roses  with  Apple-scented 
leaves  and  delicate  pinkish  orange,  salmon  and  rose-pink  single  flowers. 
We  must  not  pass  over  the  early  yellow  Roses,  two  of  which  are  of 
great  importance.  The  earliest  and  lighter  yellow  Rose  seen  in  every 
old-fashioned  garden  is  the  Persian  yellow  and  a  few  days  or  weeks 
later  the  golden  yellow  variety,  which  is  slightly  tinged  withered  on 
some  of  the  center  petals,  is  Harrison's  Yellow.  The  foliage  of  this 
Rose  is  charming;  it  is  a  pity  that  these  two  Roses  bloom  but  once  a 
year.  One  other  Brier  before  we  pass  inside  of  the  Rose  plot  which  is 
to  be.  It  is  the  Prairie  Brier,  Rosa  setigera,  and  as  it  has  a  tendency 
to  climb,  should  be  given  some  sort  of  a  trellis  or  fence.  It  blooms 
late  and  bears  huge  pink  single  flowers  in  large  trusses. 

49 


50  GARDEN  GUIDE 

CLIMBING  ROSES.  While  we  are  speaking  of  a  trellis  for  the 
Prairie  Rose,  let  us  also  say  a  word  for  the  climbing  Roses.  They 
can  well  be  planted  around  our  little  garden  or  they  can  be  trained  on 
poles,  or  on  the  porches.  The  old  Crimson  Rambler  is  disliked  by 
many  people  because  it  gets  buggy  and  mildewed.  Instead,  plant 
Philadelphia,  and  surely  try  Excelsa.  When  the  judges  for  the  Hub- 
bard  Memorial  Medal,  given  to  the  best  Rose  introduced  during 
the  last  five  years,  decided  upon  Excelsa  as  the  winner,  it  meant  that 
this  variety  was  in  competition  with  hundreds  of  large  garden 
Roses.  Excelsa  is  the  hardiest  and  most  brilliant  crimson  climber 
we  have.  Do  you  want  a  single  crimson  climbing  Rose  ?  This  is 
Hiawatha.  The  finest  light  pink  is  without  doubt  the  Dorothy  Perkins ; 
its  clean  foliage,  dainty  buds  and  abundance  of  bloom  are  highly  ad- 
mired. Tausendschon,  or  Thousand  Beauties,  is  surely  another  peerless 
pink;  the  individual  flowers  are  large  and  stand  out  prominently  in  the 
trusses;  the  color,  which  is  deep  pink  upon  opening,  changing  later 
to  white,  is  exquisite. 

A  large  flowering  variety,  and  one  on  which  the  flowers  are  produced 
profusely,  is  the  Christine  Wright.  The  blooms  are  in  small  clusters 
and  are  of  a  clear  wild-rose  pink.  The  plants  are  sometimes  not  great 
climbers,  but  they  are  effective,  at  least  at  the  base  of  the  pillar.  The 
yellows  are  rather  too  tender  to  be  really  climbers.  Aglaia,  or  the 
Yellow  Rambler,  is  beautiful,  being  deep  golden  yellow  in  bud.  The 
pretty  glossy  foliage  of  many  of  these  .Roses  has  been  derived  from 
the  Memorial  Rose  (R.  Wichuraiana).  It  is  very  useful  as  a  ground 
cover,  being  unexcelled  for  covering  waste  land,  and  trespassing  upon 
steep  banks  can  be  successfully  prevented  by  planting  this  Rose. 

THE  TEA  ROSES.  The  teas  really  are  perpetual  blooming;  they 
have  exquisite  colors  and  thick,  leathery  petals;  besides  this,  their  buds 
are  pointed,  but  they  are  very  tender.  In  other  words,  they  are  killed 
very  easily  by  the  frost.  All  of  the  readers  who  have  grown  Roses  at 
all  know  this  and  remark:  "Even  so,  we  will  continue  to  try  and  Win- 
ter them,  for  it  is  surely  worth  faiHng  with  some  if  only  a  few  will  grow." 
The  snow-white  Maman  Cochet  is  large,  fragrant  and  productive; 
the  color  becomes  a  trifle  pink  in  the  Fall.  The  buds  of  Lady  Hilling- 
don,  deep  apricot-yellow  in  color,  are  certainly  irresistible  for  cutting 
to  bring  indoors.  Marie  Van  Houtte,  whose  color  can  be  described 
either  as  a  pink  shaded  cream  white  or  vice  versa,  is  also  charming. 
Papa  Gontier  is  an  extra  fine  rich  rosy  red. 

THE  HYBRID  PERPETUALS.  The  word  "perpetual"  in  the  title  of 
this  group  is  a  misnomer;  they  are  not  perpetual.  They  have  resulted 
from  a  cross  between  the  tea,  a  perpetual  Rose,  and  the  various 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN 


51 


groups  of  very  hardy  Roses,  so  that  they  are  hardy,  and  generally  they 
can  be  had  in  bloom  a  second  time.  They  are  the  vigorous  varieties  for 
general  use.  It  is  difficult  to  say  of  this  class  of  Roses  "Here  is  a  list 
of  the  best  twelve."  Someone  will  surely  remark:  "Why,  he  does  not 
even  know  the  best  variety  of  them  all. "  Nevertheless,  we  all  agree  that 


The  sort  of  garden  we  all  delight  in.     Baby  Dorothy  Rose  and 
Baby  Tausendschon  Roses  are  massed  around  the  sundial 

Frau  Karl  Druscihk  is  the  finest  white.  The  buds  are  handsome  and 
it  seems  to  bloom  for  a  longer  season  than  most.  If  you  leave  out  Clio 
from  your  planting  you  would  miss  a  very  beautiful  flesh  pink.  An- 
other, and  a  free  bloomer,  is  Mrs.  R.  G.  JSharman-Crawford. 
A  bright  cherry  red,  a  fine  and  rather  new  Rose,  which  is  always 


52  GARDEN  GUIDE 

successful,  is  Gloire  de  Chedane  Guinoisseau;  perhaps  an  improve- 
ment upon  Ulrich  Brunner.  Prince  Gamille  de  Rohan  and  Hugh 
Dickson  are  both  deep  velvety  crimsons.  The  deep  colored  Roses 
of  this  type  are  usually  injured  by  the  rains  and  strong  sun.  Paul 
Neyron  is  the  largest  deep  pink  variety,  frequently  criticized  for 
being  too  coarse  and  large.  No,  we  have  not  forgotten  the  Jack 
Rose,  or,  as  it  is  called  in  the  catalogues,  General  Jacqueminot.  You 
know  how  well  it  does  everywhere  and  what  a  brilliant  scarlet  crim- 
son it  is.  Another  excellent  strong  grower  and  a  deep  scarlet  is 
J.  B.  Clark.  A  very  sweet  and  perfectly  formed  crimson  carmine  is' 
the  variety  Captain  Hay  ward.  Captain  Christy  bears  a  full  flower 
which  is  tinted  white  and  pale  blush.  Magna  Charta  is  always 
admired  for  its  vigor  of  growth  and  its  bright,  rosy  pink  flowers,  which 
possess  great  substance. 

THE  HYBRID  TEAS.  In  the  hybrid  teas  are  combined  some  of  the 
hardiness  of  the  hybrid  perpetual  as  well  as  the  more  or  less  perpetual 
blooming  quality,  and  the  richness  of  coloring  and  beauty  of  form  of 
the  teas.  The  array  of  good  varieties  is  almost  endless.  Among  the  pinks 
the  first  tha't  deserves  to  be  recognized  is  Jonkheer  J.  L.  Mock,  that 
beautiful  Rose,  the  outside  of  the  petals  of  which  are  much  lighter 
in  color.  The  flowers  are  very  fragrant  and  the  stem  erect  and  strong. 
The  Killarney  is  rather  more  single  than  the  other  pink  varieties,  but 
although  it  opens  quickly  it  remains  for  some  time  before  shattering 
and  is  remarkable  for  its  freedom  of  bloom.  We  cannot  pass  Lady  Alice 
Stanley  without  recognition.  The  color  is  a  lovely  coral-rose,  the 
inside  a  little  lighter.  The  flowers  are  nearly  perfect  in  form,  color, 
fragrance  and  size.  The  popular  Caroline  Testout,  which  covers  the 
streets  of  Portland,  Oregon,  is  a  superb  bedding  variety.  Other  fine 
pink  varieties  are  Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell,  Souvenir  du  President  Carnot, 
Mrs.  George  Shawyer,  Lady  Ashtown,  Dean  Hole,  La  France. 
The  most  superb  lemon  white  variety  is,  no  doubt,  Kaiserin  Augusta 
Victoria. 

In  reds  we  have,  first,  Gruss  an  Teplitz,  a  velvety  rich  glowing 
crimson,  a  continuous  bloomer  and  very  sweet.  A  dazzling  color 
is  displayed  by  the  variety  Chateau  de  Clos  Vougeot;  it  is  not  a  strong 
grower  but  a  continual  bloomer.  Second  to  none  is  a  variety  sent  out 
as  Lady  Battersea.  Certain  rosarians  have  expressed  a  doubt  as  to  its 
proper  name.  It  is  surely  a  superb  deep,  very  double  maroon-crimson. 
Laurent  Carle  is  much  lighter  than  the  other  red  varieties  mentioned ; 
it  is  a  carmine  and  intensely  fragrant.  Etoile  de  France  bears  a 
very  double,  cup-formed  flower  of  deep  crimson. 

Among  the  salmony  or  coppery  shades,  Sunburst  is  one  of  the  most 
successfully  grown.  It  is  superior  to  Mrs.  Aaron  Ward  in  color  and 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN  53 

form.  Another  is  Ophelia,  a  more  decided  pink  salmon  than  Sunburst, 
and  a  variety  which  has  been  received  throughout  the  Rose  world 
with  enthusiasm. 

It  is  difficult  to  know  where  to  place  some  Roses,  sueh  as  the  in- 
comparable Mme.  Edouard  Herriot,  the  "Daily  Mail"  Rose,  which  is 
described  by  its  introducer,  Pernet-Ducher,  as  "coral  red,  shaded  at 
the  base  with  yellow."  Another  has  described  the  color  as  appearing 
like  "sunshine  upon  a  copper-red  metal."  It  is  a  splendid  variety  and 
worthy  of  acquaintance.  One  variety,  a  rich  yellow,  suffused  carmine, 
commands  the  attention  of  all;  it  is  Marquise  de  Sinety,  a  semi-double 
and  very  fragrant. 

SOILS.  The  soil  best  suited  for  Roses  is  usually  considered  to  be 
a  medium  heavy  loam,  especially  for  hybrid  perpetuals,  briers  and 
climbers.  The  hybrid  teas  and  teas  prefer  a  lighter  soil,  a  sandy  loam. 
The  hybrid  perpetuals,  hybrid  teas  and  teas  require  perfect  drainage. 

WIDTH  OF  BEDS.  Roses  are  best  planted  in  beds.  If  they  are  to 
be  worked  from  both  sides,  five  or  six  feet  is  wide  enough  and  three  feet 
is  the  proper  width  for  beds  against  the  walls.  Beds  that  are  too  wide 
necessitate  stepping  in  them  when  picking  the  blooms  or  when  culti- 
vating. Narrow  beds  are  poor  because  of  the  intrusion  of  grass  roots 
upon  the  nourishment  which  would  otherwise  go  to  the  Roses.  If 
possible  it  is  best  to  reserve  the  Rose  beds  for  Roses  alone  and  not 
attempt  growing  many  other  things. 

PREPARATION  OF  SOIL.  Dr.  Huey  of  Philadelphia,  a  noted 
veteran  rosarian,  says  that  it  is  much  better  to  put  a  fifteen-cent 
Rose  bush  hi  a  fifty-cent  hole  than  to  put  a  fifty-cent  Rose  bush 
in  a  fifteen-cent  hole.  The  preparation  of  the  beds  should  take 
place  in  the  Fall  in  order  that  the  soil  may  have  an  opportunity  to 
settle. 

All  Rose  beds  should  be  dug  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  deep.  The 
subsoil  should  be  loosened  and  thoroughly  manured,  then  fill  in  to  over 
half  the  depth  with  manured  top  soil  over  which  spread  a  good  layer 
of  compost.  By  compost  we  mean  soil  which  has  been  thoroughly  en- 
riched by  manure  (one  barrow  of  manure  to  three  of  soil)  and  bone- 
meal;  this  should  be  allowed  to  become  thoroughly  incorporated  with 
the  soil,  piling  alternate  layers  of  soil  and  manure  and  allowing  to 
remain  for  a  few  months  or  a  year.  Lastly,  the  top  layer  may  be 
any  good  soil.  When  the  bed  is  finished  it  should  be  two  or 
three  inches  above  the  normal  level.  The  main  secret  of  successful 
Rose  growing  lies  in  the  proper  preparation  of  the  bed. 

TIME  TO  PLANT.  Spring  is  the  best  time  to  plant  the  hybrid 
teas  and  teas.  If  the  beds  have  been  carefully  prepared  the 
previous  Fall,  the  soil  will  get  into  good  condition  quickly.  The 


54 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Q 


A  rustic  pergola.     Such  pergolas  can  be  made  of  peeled  Oak 

or  Pine,  or  of  any  durable  branches  one  can  get — but  never 

Birch;  that  won't  last  beyond  a  season.     A  variety  of  vines  can 

be  trained  here 


0 


nursery  stored  plants  can  be  set  out  as  soon  as  land  can  be  worked. 
The  pot-grown  stock,  if  it  is  not  crowded,  can  well  be  kept  till  May. 
These  latter  plants  are  growing  and  there  is  no  necessity  for  giving  a 
check  by  planting  in  open  ground  sooner.  If  the  stock  is  frosted  when 
received,  cover  the  whole  plant  with  soil  until  the  frost  is  drawn  out. 
The  plants  are  often  rather  dry  when  received;  the  bark  is  shriveled  or 
the  roots  brittle.  If  the  whole  plant  is  either  buried  in  soil  or  placed  in 
water  before  planting,  it  will  be  greatly  benefited.  In  planting,  re- 
move all  buds  which  may  be  present  upon  the  roots  of  those  which 
have  been  budded  and  prune  the  broken  roots.  All  tops  should  be 
severely  cut  back  so  that  each  bears  three  to  six  eyes;  this  is  especially 
necessary  and  should  not  be  neglected.  The  roots  should  be  spread 
naturally  and  in  the  case  of  budded  plants,  so  placed  that  the  point 
budded  is  two  or  three  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  soil.  It  is 
absolutely  necessary  to  plant  very  firmly;  the  soil  must  be  filled  in 
about  the  roots  most  carefully  and  made  solid.  The  hole  should 
not  be  entirely  filled,  but  the  plant  should  be  watered,  after  which 
dry  soil  is  placed  on  top  to  prevent  baking. 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN  55 

DISTANCE  APART.  Teas  are  best  planted  fifteen  inches,  hybrid 
teas  eighteen  inches,  hybrid  perpetuals  three  feet,  and  rugosas  or 
Moss  Roses  four  feet  apart.  Varieties  will  differ  greatly  as  to  the 
amount  of  space  needed. 

SUMMER  TREATMENT.  Keep  the  soil  continually  cultivated  to  re- 
tain as  much  moisture  as  possible;  the  stirring  need  not  be  deep,. other- 
wise roots  are  injured.  A  mulch  of  lawn  clippings  is  beneficial.  Each 
time  a  new  supply  is  ready  the  other  will  have  been  dried  and  worked 
into  the  soil.  After  every  rain  the  soil  should  be  loosened.  A  good 
syringing  of  water  every  day  from  the  start  of  the  season  will  go  a  long 
way  toward  keeping  the  insects  off.  The  time  for  syringing  is  morning 
or  evening.  At  midday  it  is  rather  injurious  to  the  foliage.  All 
through  the  Summer  watch  for  suckers;  they  usually  have 
more  leaflets — five  to  seven,  the  garden  varieties  having  but 
three  to  five.  They  should  not  be  broken  off  but  cut  out  down 
to  the  roots. 

ROSE  INSECTS.  The  Rose  plant  louse  or  aphis  is  one  of  the  com- 
monest pests;  it  appears  on  the  young  growths  and  reproduces  with 
great  rapidity,  soon  covering  the  plants.  The  tips  of  branches 
are  stunted  and  the  buds  only  produce  deformed  flowers.  The  daily 
syringe  advocated  elsewhere  will  do  much  to  lessen  the  attacks,  for  the 
insects  will  be  washed  off  the  plants.  Whale  oil  soap  (one  pound  to  ten 
gallons  of  water),  or  some  nicotine  preparation,  will  surely  kill  them  if 
one  keeps  at  them. 

There  are  several  Rose  slugs.  In  each  case  they  are  worms  which 
skeletonize  the  leaves  and  even  attack  the  plant  when  the  leaves  first 
unfold.  Arsenate  of  lead  (one  pound  arsenate  of  lead  to  twenty-five 
gallons  of  water)  is  effective,  but  even  water  will  check  them  if  applied 
with  force.  Hellebore  is  good  dusted  on  the  leaves;  it  should  first  be 
diluted  to  half  its  weight  with  flour  or  plaster. 

The  leaf  hoppers  can  be  controlled  by  spraying  with  tobacco  ex- 
tract on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  The  Rose  leaf  roller  can  be 
controlled  with  arsenate  of  lead.  There  is  also  the  Rose  scale,  which 
can  easily  be  washed  from  the  canes  by  using  a  coarse  brush  and  a 
solution  of  corrosive  sublimate,  or  on  a  large  scale  sprayed  with  lime 
sulphur,  or  the  canes  burned. 

The  Rose  beetle  is  especially  prevalent  on  sandy  soils.  It  is  a 
slender  beetle,  thickly  clothed  with  hairs,  yellow;  its  legs  are  long, 
slender,  and  pale  red  in  color.  It  appears  in  early  Summer,  feeding  on 
leaves  and  flowers.  A  spray  with  a  poison  does  little,  but  by  some  it  is 
thought  that  they  can  be  poisoned  with  arsenate  of  lead  if  it  is  mixed 
with  molasses  and  sprayed  on  the  foliage.  Hand  picking  is  really  neces- 
sary. They  should  be  dropped  into  oil.  The  white  and  light  colored 


56 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN 


57 


Screen  for  the  side 
or  back  of  a  house. 
Grape  vines  may  be 
used,  but  they  must 
be  kept  free  of  insects 
and  other  "crawly 
things."  Ampelopsis, 
Clematis  or  Wichur- 
aiana  Roses  also  can 
be  recommended 


flowers  are  attacked  more  than  dark  reds.    The 
larvae  feed  on  roots  of  Rose  plants. 

The  Rose  curculio,  a  snout  beetle,  is  found 
often  on  wild  Roses,  also  on  Rosa  rugosa,  on 
the  unfolding  bud.  They  should  be  hand  picked. 
They  drill  into  the  bud  and  are  found  late  in  the 
day  or  early  in  the  morning. 

ROSE  DISEASES.  Mildew  causes  a  powdery 
effect  upon  leaves.  It  is  especially  prevalent 
upon  the  Crimson  Ramblers  and  Moss  Roses. 
It  appears  when  the  nights  are  cool  and  days  are 
hot  and  sultry,  and  disfigures  the  plant,  but  does 
not  affect  the  next  year's  crop  of  flowers.  Sulphur 
powdered  upon  the  leaves  is  a  suggested  control. 

Rlack  Spot  is  the  most  serious  disease,  and 
is  especially  bad  on  the  American  Reauty  and 
other  hybrid  perpetuals.  It  is  confined  to  the 
foliage  and  appears  in  Midsummer.  It  looks  like 
a  black  or  purple  spot  one-quarter  inch  in  diameter,;  the  blotches 
are  more  evident  on  the  upper  surface.  When  the  patches  are 
examined  they  will  be  found  to  have  a  fine  mycelium  growing  on 
them  which  causes  premature  defoliation.  If  possible  the  infected 
leaves  should  always  be  removed.  Spray  with  Rordeaux  mixture 
(3-5-50),  or  other  copper  fungicides;  potassium  sulphide  does  not 
seem  as  good. 

Leaf  Scorch,  when  severe,  causes  the  infected  areas  of  the  leaf 
to  drop  out.  The  canes  are  also  attacked.  The  wild  Roses,  too,  are  in- 
fested. The  best  control  is  to  use  copper  fungicides. 

Rose  Rust  is  especially  prevalent  on  hardy  varieties.  It  has 
Summer  spores  and  Winter  spores  and  attacks  canes  as  well  as  leaves. 
The  best,  preventive  is  the  removal  and  burning  of  all  rusted  canes. 
A  spray  with  some  copper  solution  to  protect  and  prevent  is  all  that 
can  be  advised. 

Rose  Canker  appears  as  a  warty  growth  on  the  canes;  excrescences 
on  wood.  It  can  only  be  cut  out  when  found.  It  is  caused  by  a  fungus. 


CHAPTER  VI 

Among  the  Hardy  Flowers 

BY  hardy  plants  we  mean  those  perennial  herbaceous  plants 
which  will  live  a  number  of  years  without  re-sowing  seed. 
We  use  the  word  "  herbaceous  "  to  contrast  them  with  shrubs 
and  trees,  for  it  means  that  they  die  down  to  the  soil  each  year. 
Their  growth  is  soft,  not  woody. 

It  may  be  asked  why  we  talk  so  much  about  the  proper  care  of 
this  or  that  perennial  when  on  the  whole  the  commonest  ones  merely 
need  a  medium  good  soil  and  their  competitors,  the  weeds,  removed. 
The  reply  is  that  we  should  not  be  content  with  Peonies,  Phlox, 
or  Iris  unless  they  are  grown  to  perfection,  or  unless  we  have  the  finest 
varieties. 

We  are  interested  in  a  particular  flower  often  because  it  seems  to 
possess  a  certain  shape,  color,  or  thrifty  habit,  which  we  admire. 
Our  interest  broadens  when  we  prefer  to  get  a  great  many  varieties 
of  the  same  flower.  Finally,  we  are  even  interested  in  its  botanical 
relatives.  It  is  then  that  we  become  '*  cranks  "  and  thoroughly  know 
and  truly  enjoy  a  chosen  favorite. 

Perennials  are  adapted  to  such  a  range  of  soils  and  climates  that 
we  can  surely  find  something  beautiful  to  suit  our  situation  exactly. 
If  our  land  is  very  rocky  and  shallow  we  must  govern  our  selection 
of  perennials  accordingly,  and  we  can  follow  nature  quite  closely 
in  choosing  the  sort  of  plants  to  use. 

Each  garden  should  be  our  own,  and  should  express  our  likes  in 
color  and  combination,  but  we  must  be  governed  by  good  taste,  with 
the  possession  of  which  some  are  born,  while  by  others  it  must  be 
acquired.  A  lady  told  Ruskin  that  although  she  did  not  know  good 
art  she  knew  what  she  liked.  Ruskin  replied:  "  Even  the  beasts  of 
the  field  know  that."  The  observations  of  others  often  make  us  able 
to  choose  wisely  for  ourselves. 

COMBINATIONS  OF  PERENNIALS 

A  planting  of  delicate  pink  Hollyhocks,  in  front  of  which  we  place 
a  good  clump  of  white  Phlox,  is  to  be  much  commended.  Similarly, 
the  Phlox  will  combine  cicely  with  Delphinium. 

A  bed  of  Peonies,  in  which  have  been  planted  some  Lilium  specio- 

58 


HARDY  FLOWERS 


sum  rubrum  and  album,  is  good;     the  Peonies  will  have  finished 
flowering  before  the  Lilies  begin. 

Huge  beds  of  German  Iris  of  one  variety  are  shown  by  themselves, 
but  since  they  are  out  of  bloom  before  July  1st  it  is  well  to  have  some- 
thing to  maintain  the  beauty.  A  few  attractive  shrubs  are  then 
useful.  Especially  decorative  because  of  their  berries  are  Viburnum 
Opulus  or  some  of  the  Honeysuckles. 

Coreopsis  lanceolata  and  a  deep  violet  blue  Delphinium  make  an 
excellent  contrast. 

Another  yellow  and  blue 
combination  is  Speedwell 
(Veronica  spicata)  with  Even- 
ing Primrose  (GEnothera  mis- 
souriensis).  The  slender  spikes 
of  the  Speedwell  contrast  nicely 
with  the  large,  brilliant  yellow 
flowers  of  the  Evening  Prim- 
rose. 

Probably  no  flower  of  the 
Autumn  is  so  graceful  and 
welcome  as  the  lovely  Japanese 
Anemone.  Excellent  white  and 
pink  varieties  are  available. 
As  they  make  no  effect  till 
near  August  they  are  best  com- 
bined with  a  tall,  ornamental 
grass  which  will  give  a  good 
back-ground. 

The  large  group  of  peren- 
nial Asters,  or  Michaelmas 
Daisies,  should  not  be  forgot- 
ten; they  are  the  charm  of  the 
real  late  Fall  garden.  Planted 
at  the  rear  of  borders  they 
make  an  excellent  foliage  back- 
ground for  the  earlier  flowering  plants.  Especially  noteworthy  is  the 
Aster  ptarmicoides,  a  very  erect,  strong-growing  white  species  which 
blooms  a  trifle  earlier  than  some  of  the  others.  A  truly  beautiful  light 
blue  is  the  Beauty  of  Golwall  and  a  good  pink  is  A.  novi-belgii  St. 
Egwin.  A  very  late  species,  five  to  six  feet  tall,  is  A.  tataricus;  it 
possesses  excellent  clean  foliage  and  bluish  violet  flowers.  One  of 
the  largest  flowering  sorts  is  A.  grandiflorus. 

The   Larkspurs  and   Monkshoods    (Aconitum)    are  planted   to 


Long  borders  of/  hardjrT  flowers  growing 
freely  and  in  great  luxuriance.  The  arch 
in  the  garden  wall  focuses  the  view.  No 
straight  trim  edges,  yet  there  is  abundant 
room  to  walk.  These  borders  run  right 
up  to  the  dwelling  house 


60 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


advantage  in  conjunction  with  Madonna  Lilies  (Lilium  candidum). 
Spring  bulbs  are  often  combined  with  a  few  Adonis  amurensis, 
a  very  pretty  little  yellow-flowering  plant  with  finely  cut  leaves. 

Under  trees  where  grass  will  not  grow,  plant  some  Ajuga  reptans, 
or  even  Ground  Ivy  (Nepeta  Glechoma) ;  the  latter  is  often  considered 
a  weed,  but  very  attractive  results  are  often  produced  by  its  use.  It 
bears  pretty  blue  flowers. 

In  every  home  yard  there  is  a  certain  small  area,  between  perhaps 
the  walk  and  the  wall,  which  it  would  be  advantageous  to  have  filled 
nicely  with  plants;  such  an  area  is  nicely  planted  to  Bishop's  Weed 
(yEgepodium).  This  plant  has  green  and  white  variegated  leaves 
and  thrives  in  any  soil.  It  is  rapid  growing,  but  only  attains  a  height 
of  twelve  inches. 

Excellent  contrast  combinations  can  be  had  by  the  intense 
blue  Anchusa  italica  and  the  yellow  Marguerite  (Anthemis  tinctoria), 
placing  the  Anchusa  at  the  back. 

Another  good  com- 
bination is  that  of 
German  Iris,  among 
which  is  planted  the 
Summer  Hyacinth 
(Hyacinthus  or  Gal- 
tonia  candicans),  with 
its  long  spikes  of 
white  bells  and  its 
broad  leaves.  The 
bulbs  of  the  Summer 
Hyacinth  are  placed  in 
the  soil  in  the  Spring; 
when  they  bloom  the 
Iris  will  have  finished 
its  blooming  but  will 
furnish  a  foliage  base. 
An  effective  use 
of  the  blue  Aquilegia, 
or  Columbine,  is  to 
place  a  number  of 
these  plants  at  the 
base  of  a  yellow 
Rose;  for  example, 

Bringing  the  flower  garden  up  to  the  house.  Note  Harrison's  Yellow  Or 
also  the  brick  path  and  other  architectural  features  Persian  Yellow. 


HARDY  FLOWERS 


61 


G  ONSIDER  ATI  ONS 
FOR  A  PERENNIAL 
BORDER.  We  have  a 
great  many  classes  of 
perennials,  some  *  of 
which  are  so  wild  and 
aggressive  that  they 
should  only  be  planted 
among  the  shrubbery. 
We  have  others  which 
are  very  dainty  and 
tender  and  whose 
growth  must  be  care- 
fully watched  and 
their  special  needs  for 
protection  attended 
to. 

We  must  scatter 
plants  through  the 
length  of  the  border 
which  will  bloom 
throughout  the  sea- 
son. We  should,  fur- 
thermore, attempt  to 
get  good  color  combi- 
nations. We  should 
know  the  heights  to 
which  the  plants 
grow,  otherwise  the  taller  ones  may  be  in  front  and  the 
more  dwarf  ones  in  the  background.  It  is  always  well  in  an  informal 
border  to  let  the  back  line  be  somewhat  broken;  plants  at  some  points 
are  a  little  shorter. 

SITUATION  OF  BORDER.  Choose  a  southern  exposure  where  it 
is  not  in  too  close  proximity  to  large  tree  roots.  It  should  be 
somewhat  protected  from  the  direct  force  of  the  wind,  otherwise  fragile 
flowers  will  not  be  very  lasting.  Most  perennials  enjoy  a  medium  light 
loam. 

PREPARATION  OF  SOIL.  As  with  annuals,  but  perhaps  more  so 
with  perennials,  the  soil  for  borders  should  be  deeply  and  thoroughly 
prepared;  two  to  three  feet  is  none  too  deep,  for  plants  must  remain 
in  one  place  for  a  long  time.  In  the  case  of  Peonies  it  is  detrimental 
to  move  them  often  and  it  is  frequently  two  years,  and  in  some  soils 
three  years,  after  moving  a  Peony  plant  before  it  blooms  normally. 


Another  garden  where  the  flower  borders  are  brought 
close  to  the  house.    Here,  too,  are  ornamental  archi- 
tectural objects,   and    brick   path    in  herring-bone 
pattern 


62  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Manure  and  a  complete  fertilizer  should  be  well  worked  into  a  ne\v 
border.  All  perennial  borders  profit  by  an  application  of  bonemeal, 
hardwood  ashes  and  sheep  manure  every  year  or  two.  Perennial 
borders  which  have  been  flowering  year  after  year  and  to  which  much 
manure  has  continually  been  added,  become  somewhat  sour  and  an 
application  of  slaked  lime  every  two  years  is  very  beneficial.  Many 
of  the  perennials  do  not  attain  their  proper  maturity  before  the  Winter 
when  they  have  been  excessively  fertilized  and  forced  into  continued 
sappy  growth.  They  then  suffer  from  cold.  All  soils  for  borders 
should  be  loose,  so  that  they  can  be  easily  kept  stirred.  Soils  are 
made  light  or  loosened  by  manure,  sand  or  coal  ashes.  Clay  soils 
surely  need  some  such  treatment. 

PLANTING.  Now  that  the  questions  of  fertilizers  and  soils  are 
settled,  let  us  consider  the  planting.  A  rule  is  given  in  setting  peren- 
nials to  put  them  a  trifle  closer  than  half  their  height.  For  example, 
Columbine  grows  two  feet  tall;  for  good  clumps  place  young  plants 
one  foot  apart.  This  rule  will  not  apply  in  subsequent  years,  for  as 
the  plants  grow  they  must  be  thinned  out.  A  good,  liberal  planting 
is  always  the  better  plan.  Plants  should  usually  be  set  a  little  deeper 
than  they  were  when  growing  in  the  nursery.  Care  must  be 
exercised  not  to  bury  them  too  deeply,  however,  for  some  perennials, 
as  Violets  and  German  Iris,  are  almost  surface  creepers.  In  placing 
the  perennials  in  the  soil,  spread  the  roots  symmetrically;  do  not 
wad  them  and  cram  them  into  a  little  hole. 

SPRING  PLANTING.  The  planting  of  perennials  is  best  done  in 
Spring  when  the  tops  are  just  about  to  start  into  growth.  There  is 
danger  in  planting  when  the  soil  is  too  moist,  especially  clayey 
soils,  which  when  they  become  caked  are  difficult  to  pulverize 
during  the  whole  growing  season. 

AUTUMN  PLANTING.  In  the  Autumn  most  perennials  can  be 
transplanted  successfully  if  their  roots  get  established  before  cold 
weather.  If  perennials  must  be  moved  in  full  growth  they  should 
always  be  cut  back;  especially  is  this  the  case  when  much  soil  is  re- 
moved from  the  roots.  All  newly  set  stock  should  be  watered.  There 
is  usually  less  work  in  Autumn  than  in  the  Spring,  hence  this  season 
is  often  preferred  for  planting. 

CULTIVATION.  Through  the  growing  season  the  surface  soil  should 
be  loosened  so  that  air  may  enter  in  order  to  encourage  root  action, 
as  well  as  to  conserve  the  moisture,  and  keep  the  weeds  in  check. 
Under  the  heading  of  "  Lawns  "  we  have  mentioned  the  value  of  lawn 
clippings  as  a  Summer  mulch  to  conserve  moisture.  We  very  strongly 
recommend  nicely  decayed  stable  manure  and  leafmold,  where  these 
are  obtainable. 


HARDY  FLOWERS 


63 


Irises,  Peonies,  Violas  ;and  other  hardy  flowers  and  shrubs  in  a  garden 
in  northern  New  York  State 


64  GARDEN  GUIDE 

WATERING,  although  beneficial,  is  less  necessary  if  the  soil  is 
always  kept  loose.  In  dry  seasons  water  may  be  applied,  using  plenty 
at  one  time.  Little  drippings  of  water  are  bad  for  all  plants,  for  such 
a  method  of  watering  only  destroys  the  surface  looseness.  Syringing 
the  foliage  is  beneficial;  in  many  cases  it  serves  to  keep  insects  in 
check  if  done  vigorously.  Wherever  possible,  water  pipes  should  be 
laid  on  for  use  in  the  garden. 

STAKING.  Many  of  the  perennials  will  become  tall  and  some 
support  will  be  necessary,  Do  not  make  it  conspicuous.  Paint  the 
stake  green  and  tie  with  green  cord  or  raffia,  but  do  not  use  an  old  mop 
handle  nor  tie  with  brilliant  calico.  A  light,  but  long  stake  placed  at 
the  center  of  the  plant  is  effective.  Branchlets  may  also  be  used.  In 
that  case  scarcely  any  tying  is  needed.  Let  the  stakes  be  placed 
early;  when  the  plants  have  made  a  great  growth  they  cannot  be 
effectively  supported,  so  that  a  natural  appearance  is  lost.  The  whole 
beauty  of  a  garden  is  frequently  marred  by  the  absence  of  stakes  or  a 
poor  method  of  staking. 

REMOVAL  OF  OLD  FLOWERS  AND  SEED  PODS.  All  old  flowers, 
seed  pods  and  dead  leaves  should  be  removed  from  time  to  time. 
They  should  be  burned.  Old  flowers  harbor  thrips,  a  very  minute 
insect  which  is  usually  found  in  the  heart  of  a  Rose  bloom ;  they  cause 
a  shabby  appearance  of  the  petalage.  Seed  production  is  a  most 
debilitating  process;  the  plant  therefore  should  be  prevented  from 
doing  this  excessive  labor.  When  the  old  flowers  are  picked  the 
energies  are  often  turned  to  a  second  crop  of  bloom.  Many  dead 
leaves  are  diseased  and  are  a  menace  to  the  other  plants.  Besides 
this,  old  flowers,  dead  leaves  and  seed  pods  give  an  air  of  untidiness  to 
the  garden. 

THE  PROPAGATION  OF  PERENNIALS  is  discussed  in  a  separate 
chapter,  page  200. 

NECESSITY  FOR  REPLANTING.  Some  of  the  later  blooming  peren- 
nials, especially  Helianthus,  Rudbeckia,  Asters  Boltonia,  Physostegia, 
Achillea,  need  to  be  replanted  or  parts  of  them  removed  each  year. 
Five  or  eight  shoots  of  these  perennials  can  be  chosen  and  the  rest  dug 
up  and  moved  to  another  place.  This  is  the  only  way  to  keep  some 
of  the  weedier  growers  in  subjection.  Perennials  which  bloom  from 
crowns  in  the  early  Spring  are  usually  impatient  of  being  moved 
often,  examples  being  Bleeding  Heart,  Oriental  Poppy,  Dictamnus, 
Red  Hot  Poker  and  Peony.  Iris  reproduces  rapidly  and  is  best 
divided  every  two  or  three  years;  Phlox  every  three  or  four  years  and 
Peony  only  every  five  or  six  years.  Many  perennials,  as  Delphinium 
and  Columbine,  increase  by  a  gradual  enlargement  of  the 
crown. 


HARDY  FLOWERS  65 

LIST  OF  THIRTY  INDISPENSABLE  JLARDY 
PERENNIALS 

Judged  from  hardiness,  color,  profusion  of  bloom  or  particular  seasonal  value. 

1.  TEN  TALL.     (Above  3*4  feet  tall.) 

Althea  rosea  (Hollyhock).     Great  range  of  colors. 

Anchusa  italica,  Dropmore  variety  (Italian  Borage).    Deepest  blue. 

Aster.  '  Tall  species  (not  China  Aster),  often  called  Michaelmas  Daisies. 

Delphinium.     Tall,  deep  blues. 

Digitalis  purpurea,  var.  gloxiniaeflora.     Excellent  foliage. 

Echinops  ruthenicus,  or  Ritro  (Gtobe  Thistle). 

Helianthus  decapetalus,  var.  multiflorus.     Forms  huge  clumps,  excellent  for  screening. 

Rudbeckia  laciniata,  var.  Golden  Glow.     Golden  yellow. 

Thalictrum  aquilegifolia.     Feathery  flowers,  lilac  in  color. 

Yucca  flaccida.     Tall  spikes  of  white,  bell-shaped  flowers. 

2.  TEN  MEDIUM  TALL.     (Between  1^-3^  feet  tall.) 
Anemone  japonica.     Chosen  as  best  late  white  flower. 
Aquilegia  chrysantha.     Long-spurred,  golden  yellow  Columbine. 
Campanula  persicifolia.     Blue  or  white,  erect,  clean  growth,  handsome  spikes. 
Delphinium  Belladonna.     Indispensable,  medium  light  blue. 

Dianthus  barbatus  (Sweet  William).    Various  colors,  fragrant. 
Gypsophila  paniculata.     Fine  airy  flower,  white,  graceful. 
Iris  germanica  pallida  dalmatica.     Excellent,  light  blue. 
Papaver  orientale.     Gorgeous  scarlet  and  orange  flowers. 
Peony,  var.  Festiva  maxima.     White,  with  dash  of  red  at  center. 
Phlox  suffruticosa  Miss  Lingard.     Pure  taffy  white  flower. 

3.  TEN  DWARF.     (Below  iy2  feet  tall.) 
Arabis  alpina.     One  of  best  early  white  perennials. 

Dianthus  plumarius  (Clove  Pink).    White  to  purple,  very  fragrant. 
Geum  coccineum  (Avens).     A  very  clear  scarlet;  likes  sun. 

Heuchera  sanguinea  (Coral  Bells).    Long,  graceful  spikes  of  white  or  scarlet  bells. 
Iberit  semperflorens.     (Perennial  Candytuft);  excellent  white. 
Iris  pumila  (Dwarf  Iris).    Good  yellows,  purples  and  whites. 
Phlox  subulata  (Moss  Pink).    Excellent  Spring  bloom,  lavender  pink. 
Primula  polyantha  and  veris  (Spring  Cowslip).    Excellent  fresh  colors. 
Sedum  spectabile  (Showy  Sedum).    Fleshy  leaves,  rose  to    crimson  flowers. 
Chrysanthemum  maximum  (Shasta  Daisy).     Though  it  does  not  succeed  well  every- 
where, it  is  an  excellent  improved  white  Daisy. 

GENERAL  SELECTION  OF  HARDY  FLOWERS 

t  For  cutting.         *  Shade  enduring.         "For  rock  garden.         JFor  moist  ground. 
TALL  PERENNIALS     (Above  3>4  feet) 

(Autumn  Aeon-          *  ^DiaHs  ambigua  (Larger  Yellow  Fox- 


*°tAconn  Fischeri  (Monk's-hood).  *****?  nOPS  "feiucua  (Globe  Thistle). 

*°tAconitum   lycoctonum    (Wolf's-bane).  tHelianthus  decapetalus  (Perennial  Sun- 


t  Althea  rosea  (Hollyhock).  LTT 

,.    ..  tHelianthus    orgyahs     (Narrow-leaved 

*°fAnchusa    italica    Dropmore     (Italian  Sunflower). 

Borage  Alkanet).  tfHelianthus  tiiberosa  (Jerusalem  Arti- 

*°Aruncus  Sylvester   (Goat's   Beard).  choke). 

*  "Asters,  numerous  species.  *°tLupinus  polyphyllus  (Lupin). 

*  "Boccoma  cordata  (Plume  Poppy). 

tBoltonia  asteroides  (False  Chamomile)  JfRudbeckia  laciniata,  var.  Golden  Glow. 

"Boltonia  latisquama.  JSenecio  clivorum. 

"Campanula     pyramidalis      (Chimney  J*  -fThalictrum      aquilegifolia      (Meadow 

Campanula).  Rue). 

J*°Cimicifugaracemosa  (Bugbane).  °tTritoma      Pfitzeri,      properly      called 

"fDelphinium  hybrids.  Kniphofia  aloides  (Red  Hot  Poker). 

*°tDigitalis    purpurea,  var.  gloxiniaeflora  fValeriana  officinalis  (Valerian). 

(Foxglove).  "tYucca  faccida  (Bayonet  Plant). 


66 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


.MEDIUM  TALL  PERENNIALS 


feet) 


"fAchillea  Ptarmica  (Sneezewort). 

"fAconitum  Napellus  (Monk's-hood). 

"fAnthemis  tinctoria  Kelwayi   (Chamo- 

mUe). 

*°tAnemone  japonica   (Japanese   Anem- 
one). 

*  °tAquilegia  (Columbine) . 

*  "fAquilegia  canadensis. 
*°tAquilegia  chrysantha. 
*°tAquilegia  caerulea. 
*°tAquilegia  sibirica 
*"tAquilegia  vulgaris. 

t "fAsclepias  tuberosa  (Butterfly  Weed). 
°t Aster  ptarmicoides  (Frost  Weed). 
"fBaptisia  australis  (False  Indigo). 
•(•Campanula  glomerata. 
•(•Campanula    Medium    (Canterbury 

Bells). 
•(•Campanula   Medium,    var.    Calycan- 

thema  (Cups  and  Saucers). 
"fCampanula  persicifolia   (Peach-leaved 

Campanula) . 

"•(•Campanula  Trachelium  (Throatwort). 
"Callirhoe  involucrata  (Poppy  Mallow). 
"fCentaurea  dealbata  (Cornflower). 
"fCentaurea    dealbata    macrocephala 

(Knapweed). 

"fCentaurea  montana  (Mountain  Bluet). 
"fCentranthus  ruber  (Red  Valerian). 
"•("Chrysanthemum    coccineum    (Pyreth- 

rum). 

"•(•Chrysanthemum   Parthenium    (Fever- 
few). 

"•(•Clematis  Davidiana. 
"tClematis  recta. 

"•("Coreopsis  lanceolata  grandiflora  (Tick- 
seed). 

"Coreopsis  verticillata   (Narrow-leaved 
Tickseed). 

*  "Corydalis  nobilis. 

fDelphinium  Belladonna  (Larkspur). 
"tDianthus  barbatus  (Sweet  William). 
"Dicentra  spectabilis  (Bleeding  Heart). 
*°Dictamnus     Fraxinella     albus      (Gas 

Plant). 

"fDimorphotheca    aurantiaca     (Cape 
Marigold). 

*  "Dracocephalum  moldavicum    (Molda- 

vian Balm). 
t*"Doronicum    excelsum     (Leopard's 

Bane). 

*°tEchinacea  (Rudbeckia)  purpurea  (Pur- 
ple Coneflower). 
J"tEpilobium  angustifolium  (Fire  Weed). 

"Erigeron  speciosus  (Fleabane). 
"fEryngium  planum  (Sea  Holly). 
"fEryngium amethystinu'm  (Sea  Holly). 
J°Eupatorium     purpureum     (Joe     Pye 

Weed). 

"Eupatorium  perfoliatum  (Boneset). 
{"fEuphorbia  corollata   (Flowering 

Spurge), 
t  "fFilipendula  hexapetala   (Meadow 

Sweet). 

•tGaillardia  aristata  (Blanket  Flower) 
"fGalega  officinalis  (Goat's  Rue). 


*°tGalium  boreale  (Northern  Bedstraw). 
tGypsophila  acutifolia  (Baby's  Breath). 
"tGypsophila  paniculata  (Baby's  Breath) 
;  tHelenium  autumnale  (Sneezeweed). 
"fHelenium  (Dugaldia)  Hoopesii  (Sneeze- 
weed)  . 
"fHelianthus  Maximiliani     (Maximilian 

Sunflower) . 

"fHelianthus  mollis  (Downy  Sunflower). 
"Hemerocallis  aurantiaca    (Orange  Day 

Lily). 

"Hemerocallis  flava  (Lemon  Lily). 
"Hemerocallis  fulva  (Day  Lily). 
"Hemerocallis  Thunbergii. 
tHesperis  matronalis  (Sweet  Rocket), 
"tlris  germanica  (German  Iris), 
tlris  Kaempferi  (Japanese  Iris). 
"•••Iris  sibirica  (Siberian  Iris). 
Liatris  pycnostachya  (Blazing  Star). 
Lobelia  cardinalis  (Cardinal  Flower). 
Lobelia  syphilitica  (Blue  Lobelia). 
'Lychnis  chalcedonica  (Maltese  Cross), 
t  "fLysimachia    clethroides     (Pepperbush 

Loosestrife). 

JtLysimachia  punctata   (Dotted  Loose- 
strife). 

JfLysimachia  vulgaris  (Common  Loose- 
strife). 
ffLythrum   Salicaria  roseum  superbum 

(Purple  Loosestrife). 
J*  "fMertensia  virginica  (Virginia  Bluebells) . 

J  °fMonarda  didyma  (Beebalm) . 
t*  "fCEnothera    missouriensis     (Missouri 

Evening  Primrose). 

°t(Enothera  speciosa  (Evening  Primrose). 
fPaeonia  albiflora. 
tPaeonia  officinalis. 
tPaeonia  tenuifolia. 
fPapaver  orientale  (Oriental  Poppy). 
'fPentstemon  barbatus  Torreyi. 
"fPentstemon  gloxinioides. 
°*Phlox  maculata. 
"tPhlox  paniculata  (Hardy  Phlox). 

(•Phlox  suffruticosa. 
"fPhysostegia      virginiana       (Obedient 

Plant). 
"fPlatycodon    grandiflorum     (Chinese 

Balloon  Flower)., 
J  "Rheum  palmatum  var.  atro   sanguin- 

eum  (Ornamental  Rhubarb) . 
"tSalvia  azurea  (Blue  Sage). 
"tSalvia    pratensis    (Common    Meadow 

Sage). 

"tScabiosa  caucasica  (Scabious). 
"tSidalcea  Candida. 

J*°Smilacina  racemosa  (Solomon  Seal). 
"tSolidago  sp.  (Golden  Rod). 
"Spiraea. 
"fThalictrum     adiantifolium     (Meadow 

Rue). 

(•Thalictrum  dipterocarpum. 
"fThermopsis  caroliniana. 
t°Tradescantia  virginiana  (Spiderwort). 
"tVeronica    longifolia     var.     subsessilis 

(Speedwell). 
"tVeronica  spicata  (Spiked  Speedwell). 


HARDY  FLOWERS 


67 


LIST  OF  DWARF  PERENNIALS.     (Less  than  1^  feet.) 


*  "Adonis  aestivalis  (Pheasant's  Eye). 

*  "Adonis  vernalis  (Spring  Adonis) . 
i*".Egopodium  Podograria  (Gout  Weed). 

*"Ajuga  reptans  (Bugle),  i 

*°Ajuga  genevensis  (Bugle). 

"Alyssum  rostratum  (Gold  Dust). 

"Alyssum  saxatile  (Gold  Dust). 

*  "Arabia  albida  (Rock  Cress). 
*°Arabis  alpina  (Rock  Cress). 
*°Armeria  maritima  (Sea  Thrift). 
*°Armeria  formosa  (Sea  Thrift). 

*°tAsperula  odorata  (Sweet  Woodruff). 
*°Astrantia  carniolica  (Mastenvort) . 
"Aubrietia     deltoicfea     (Purple     Rock 

Cress). 

*°tCampanula  rotundifolia  (Harebell). 
"Campanula    carpatica    (Carpathian 

Harebell). 

"fCentaurea  nigra  (Knap  Weed  or  Hard- 
head). 

*  "Cerastium  tomentosum  (Snow-in-Sum- 

mer). 

"fChrysanthemum  arcticum. 
"•{•Chrysanthemum     maximum     (Shasta 

Daisy). 

*  "Claytqnia  virginica  (Spring  Beauty). 
"Coronilla  varia  (Crown  Vetch). 

*"Dianthus  deltoides  (Maiden  Pink). 
*°Dianthus  latifolius  (Pink). 
*"tDianthus  plumarius  (Clove  Pink). 
*"Dicentraeximia  (Wild  Bleeding  Heart). 
*"Dicentra   formosa    (Chinese    Bleeding 
Heart). 

*  "Dicentra   cucularia    (Dutchman's 

Breeches). 

t*"tEpimedium  alpinum. 
*"tEpimedium  pinnatum. 
J*"Funkia  subcordata. 
*"Gentiana  Andrewsii  (Closed  Gentian). 

*  "Geranium  sanguineum  (Crane's  Bill). 
"tGeum  coccineum  (Avens). 
"fHelenium  autumnale  pumilum  (Sneeze- 
weed). 

*"tHelleborus  niger  (Christmas  Rose). 
*  "fHepatica  triloba  (Mayflower) . 


*  "fHepatica  acutiloba  (Mayflower). 
*"tHeuchera  sanguinea  (Coral  Bells), 
"flberis  semperflorens  (Perennial  Candy- 
tuft). 

•flncarvillea  Delavayi. 

"flris  cristata/pumila,  and  verna  (Dwarf 

Iris). 
"fLychnis  coronaria    (Mullein   Pink). 

"Opuntia  vulgaris  (Prickly  Pear). 
"fPapaver  nudicaule  (Iceland  Poppy). 

"Phlox  Arendsii. 

ffPhlox  divaricata  (Wild  Sweet  William). 
t*°tPhlox  subulata  (Moss  Pink). 

"fPlumbago  Larpentse  (Lead  Plant). 
J*0tPodophyllum  peltatum  (May  Abple). 
*"Polemonium  cserulea  (Jacob's  Ladder). 
"tPotentilla  Miss  Willmott. 
t"tPrimula  japonica. 
'fPrimula  polyantha. 
"fPrimula  vulgaris. 
*"Pulmonaria  saccharata  (Lungwort). 
*°fRanunculus  aconitifolius  fl.  pi.  (Double 

Buttercup). 

"Sagina  glabra  (Pearlwort). 
"fSaxifraga  pyramidalis  (Saxifrage). 
t*°tSedum  spectabile  (Showy  sedum). 
*"Sempervivum    arachnoideum    (Spider- 
web  Houseleek). 

*°Sempervivum  Brownii. 

*  "Sempervivum  pyrenaicum. 

*  "Sempervivum  tectorum  (Old  Man  and 

Woman) . 

* "fStatice  latifolia  (Sea  Lavender). 
"fStokesia  cyanea  (Stokes*  Aster). 
J*°tTrillium  grandiflorum  (Wake  Robin). 

*°tTrillium  sessile. 

*"tTrillium  erectum  (Red  Trillium). 
t*°tTrollius  asiaticus  (Globe  Flower). 
t*°tTrollius  europaeus. 
J*°tTrollius  excelsior. 
|*°tTrollius  giganteus). 

*  "Tunica  (Petrohagia)  .Saxifraga. 
"tVeronica  (Petrohagia)  incana. 


PLANS  FOR  BORDERS  OF  VARIOUS  COLOR 
COMBINATIONS 

LIGHT  PINK  BORDER 
(Numbers  8-9,  etc.  refer  to  the  months  in  which  Jhey  are  in  flower. 


Hollyhock.     Pink 
double  variety 
Chrysanthemum. 
Light  pink  variety. 
(For  ex.,  Rhoda  or 
Maid  of  Kent) 
Anemone  japonica, 
var.  Queen  Char- 
lotte 
Paeonia  Mme.  Emile 
Galle 
Digitalis  purpurea, 
var.  rosea 

7-8 

8-9 

9-10 
6 
6-7 

Pink 

Light 

Pink 
Pink 
Pink 

Sedum  spectabile 
Dianthus  plumarius 
Campanula  medium 
Aster,  novi-belgii, 

St.  Egwin 
Pyrethrum.   Pink 

variety 
Phlox  subulata,  var. 

t  rose 

Bellis  perennis 
Coronilla  varia 


8-9  Light  pink 
6-7  Light  pink 
6  Light  pink 

9  Light  pink 
6-7  Pink 

4-5     Pink 
5-61  Light  pink 
6-9i  Light  pink 


68 


Centaoirea  macro- 

cephala 
Spiraea  aruncus 
Aconitum  lycocto- 

num 
Aster 

Cephalaria  montana 
Anthemis  tinctoria 

Kelwayi 


GARDEN  GUIDE 

LEMON  YELLOW  AND  WHITE  BORDER 


8-10  Lemon  yellow 
7-8     White 

7-9  Lemon 
9  White 
6-8  Lemon 

6-7     Lemon 


Achillea  ptarmica, 

The  Pearl  7  White 

Aquilegia  chrysan- 

tha  6  Lemon 

Asphodelus  lutea        6-8  Lemon 

Iris  flavescens  6  Lemon 

Sedum  album  4-6  White 

(Enothera  missouri- 

ensis  6-8  Lemon 

Iberis  semperflorens  5  White 


Aster,  White  Queen 
Tritoma  Pfitzeri 
Hollyhock 
Monarda  didyma 
Boltonia  asteroides 
Pentstemon  barbatus 
Torreyi 
Cimicifuga  racemosa 

8-9     White 
8        Scarlet 
7-8    White 
6-9    Scarlet 
7-8     White 

6-7     Scarlet 
7-8    White 

SCARLET  AND  WHITE  BORDER     . 

Geum  cocci  neum  6-7  Scarlet 

Papaver  orientale.  5-6  Scarlet 
Lychnis  chalce- 

donica  6-7  Scarlet 

Gaillardia  6-7  Scarlet 

Arabis  alpina  5-6  White 

Heuchera  sanguinea  6  Scarlet 


BORDER  WITH  GRAY  FOLIAGE 


Buddleia  Veitchiana 
Scotch  Thistle 
Rudbeckia  grandis 
Bocconia  cordata 
Gynerium  argenteum 
Echinops  ruthenicus 
Agrostemma  coronaria 


Lavandula  vera 

Santolina  chamaec^parissus 

Salvia  argentea 

Cerastium  tomentosum 

Veronica  incana 

Leontopodiu-m  sibiricum  (Edelweiss) 


ENTIRELY  BLUE  BORDER 


Aconitum  Napellus 7-8 

Aster,  Beauty  of  Colwall 9-10 

Delphinium,  Duke  of  Connaught ....  6-7 

Iris  sibirica  orientalis 6 

Anchusa  italica 6 

Polemonium  caeruleum 5-7 

Veronica  spicata. 5-7 


Aquilegia  caerulea 6 

Eryngium-amethystinum 7-9 

Aster  amethystinus .8-10 

Ajuga  genevensis 4 

Phlox  divaricata  Laphami 5-7 

Iris  cristata. 5 


BLUE  AND  WHITE  BORDER 


Lupinus  polyphyllus  6  Blue 

Iris  sibirica  White  Queen  6  White 

Delphinium  6-7  Blue 

Bocconia  cordata  7-8  White 

Aster  9-10  Blue 

Gypsophila  paniculata  7  White 

Aquilegia  caerulea  6  Blue 


Campanula  persicifolia  6-7  White 

Centaurea  montana  6-7  Blue 

Aster  ptarmicoides  8-9  White 

Iris  pumila  cyanea  5-6  Blue 

Campanula  carpatica  6-8  Blue 

Aubreitia  deltoides  2-6  White 


BLUE  AND  YELLOW  BORDER 


Helenium  autumnale 

superbum 
Delphinium 
Solidago  (Goldenrod) 
Anchusa  italica 
Helianthus  prgyalis 
Iris  germanica  var. 

asiatica 


8-10  Yellow 

6-7  Blue 

9  Yellow 

6  Blue 


7-9       Yellow 
6         Blue 


Anthemis  tinctoria 
Lupinus  polyphyllus 
Coreopsis  grandiflora 
Veroni&t  longifolia 

subsessilis 

Plumbago  Larpentae 
Alyssum  saxatile 

compactum 
Myosotis 


6-7 
6 


8-9 
6-9 


Yellow 
Blue 


6-9       Yellow 


Blue 
Blue 


5-6      Yellow 
3-8       Blue 


CHAPTER  VII 

A  Few  of  ^Everybody's  Favorites" 

THE  GLADIOLUS 

HERE  we  have  a  regal  flower  stately  enough  for  the  finest  mansion, 
as  well  as  a  democratic  flower  charming  for  the  cottage  window 
and  home  garden. 

Each  year  finds  new  uses  for  the  Gladiolus,  which  now  holds 
first  place  among  the  Summer  blooming  bulbs.  First,  because  of  the 
great  range  of  color;  secondly,  because  of  wonderful  keeping  qualities, 
each  spike  keeping  over  a  week;  thirdly,  because  of  its  easy  culti- 
vation, primarily  the  same  as  that  for  Potatoes;  and,  fourthly,  by  the 
proper  choice  of  established  varieties  they  can  be  commended  because 
of  their  cheapness.  This  flower  is  extensively  utilized  for  all  kinds 
of  decorative  work.  Large  vases  or  baskets  of  the  stately  flower  spikes 
fill  a  place  quite  distinct  from  any  other  flower.  As  a  garden  subject 
the  Gladiolus  is  unexcelled  for  furnishing  a  long  season  of  bloom, 
extending  from  mid-July  until  frost,  either  in  a  bed,  in  which  case 
the  plants  should  be  very  close,  or  in  clumps  in  the  herbaceous  border. 

The  best  soil  for  the  Gladiolus  is  a  medium  loam.  It  appreciates 
good  fertility,  but  seems  sensitive  to  any  manure  in  contact  with  the 
bulbs.  Manure  is  good  if  applied  in  the  Autumn  previous  to  planting. 
The  best  fertilizer  for  general  use  is  one  that  would  be  called  a  Potato 
fertilizer,  rich  in  potash  and  phosphoric  acid,  both  chemicals 
being  useful  in  the  proper  formation  of  good  bulbs.  Bonemeal  is 
also  extensively  used.  Liquid  manure,  when  the  buds  are  forming, 
seems  beneficial. 

Gladioli  are  not  hardy,  except  some  varieties  of  Lemoinei, 
and  even  these  require  protection  in  New  York  State.  Planting  should 
be  deferred  until  all  danger  of  frost  is  past.  A  well-planned  succession 
in  planting  is  advisable.  The  depth  to  plant  is  determined  by  the 
character  of  the  soil.  In  the  lightest  soil  seven  or  eight  inches  is  not 
too  deep,  but  in  a  heavy  clay  four  or  five  inches  would  be  a  sufficient 
depth.  There  are  two  reasons  why  the  conns  should  be  planted 
as  deep  as  the  character  of  the  soil  will  permit:  First,  the  Gladiolus 
is  moisture-loving,  and  in  deep  planting  its  roots  are  in  the  cooler 
moist  soil;  secondly,  the  soil  acts  as  a  support,  no  other  support  for  the 
stems  being  necessary  ordinarily.  Commercially,  the  corms,  ix., 

69 


70  GARDEN  GUIDE 

bulbs,  are  usually  planted  in  rows,  often  two  rows,  about  six  inches 
apart,  in  the  furrow.  If  the  corms  are  over  one  inch  in  diameter  they 
are  scattered  promiscuously. 

Upon  the  approach  of  frost  the  corms  are  dug,  and  the  tops  left 
on  the  corms.  They  are  then  stored  in  an  airy  place  to  dry  thoroughly. 
After  several  weeks  the  last  year's  exhausted  corms  and  the  old  stems 
may  be  removed  and  the  stock  cleaned.  The  best  storage  temperature 
is  from  40  to  45  deg.,  and  in  a  rather  dry  atmosphere.  If  the  corms 
become  heated  they  dry,  and  this  causes  them  to  start  prematurely. 
If  too  humid  the  corms  rot  or  start  growth.  A  shallow  tray  three  or 
four  inches  deep  insures  the  corms  against  heating. 

PROPAGATION.  (1)  By  seeds.  By  this  method  new  varieties 
are  obtained,  but  the  standard  varieties,  being  hybrids,  do  not  come 
true  when  started  from  seed.  (2)  By  cormels,  or  "  spawn  "  (the  small, 
hard-shelled  little  cormels  borne  upon  the  old  ones).  These,  if  planted 
during  the  Spring  following  the  season  in  which  they  were  produced, 
will  bloom  one  or  two  years  later,  or  usually  one  year  sooner  than 
from  seed.  (3)  By  the  annual  renewal  of  corms,  of  which  there  are 
from  one  to  six,  produced  above  the  old  corm  each  year. 

THE  PEONY 

Like  many  other  plants  intensely  interesting  because  of  their 
charming  blooms,  the  Peony  first  came  to  the  attention  of  the  world 
as  a  medicinal  plant.  It  was  named  after  Paeon,  a  mythological  doc- 
tor, for  the  roots  of  the  species  officinalis  have  been  used  in  the  making 
of  a  broth. 

Peonies  are  easy  to  grow ;  they  are  permanent  and  when  once 
established  are  impatient  of  being  moved.  They  are  perfectly  hardy 
wherever  Apples  can  be  grown  and  can  easily  be  protected  in  the  colder 
regions.  They  bear  large  and  showy  flowers,  of  a  great  range  of 
colors;  some  are  delicately  scented.  The  plants  are  so  free  from  in- 
sects that  they  prove  themselves  to  be  ideal  for  cut  blooms  or  land- 
scape flowers. 

|p  There  are  a  number  of  interesting  species  of  the  Peony.  The 
most  seen  is  the  Chinese  Peony  (Paeonia  albiflora).  This  is  the 
standard  Peony  of  which  we  have  so  many  matchless  varieties.  The 
plant  of  the  narrow-leaved  or  Fennel-leaved  Peony  (P.  tenuifolia)  is 
very  beautiful,  but  its  value  is  fleeting.  It  blooms  in  May,  the  pretty 
scarlet  flowers  nestling  among  the  dainty  dissected  foliage.  Closely 
following  in  season  are  the  European  Peonies  (P.  officinalis).  These 
are  the  old-fashioned  crimson  Pineys  of  the  garden;  they  produce  very 
satiny-petaled  blooms,  which  possess  a  not  unpleasant  soapy  odor. 


THE  PEONY  71 

At  about  the  same  season  the  shrubby  or  hardy  tree  Peonies  (P.  Mou- 
tan)  open  their  enormous  glossy  single  or  double  flowers.  The  shrubby 
Peony  grows  very  slowly.  It  should  be  planted  where  it  is  sheltered 
from  the  wind. 

The  last  groups  to  bloom  are  the,albiflora  varieties.  These  often 
begin  to  bloom  in  New  York  State  for  Memorial  Day.  For  a  suc- 
cession of  varieties  to  bloom,  Rev.  G.  S.  Harrison,  who  might  be 
called  the  Chaplain  of  American  Gardeners,  recommends  the  varieties 
umbellata  rosea,  L'Esperance,  edulis  superba,  Monsieur  Dupont, 
Richardson's  rubra  superba,  Henry  Woodward,  Richardson's  grandi- 
flora.  Mr.  Harrison,  speaking  further  of  prolonging  the  blooming  of 


A  border  of  Peonies 


the  Peony,  says:  "  There  is  also  a  system  by  which  the  blooming  of  a 
single  variety  can  be  prolonged.  Take  a  row,  say  of  Festiva  maxima; 
wait  until  the  ground  has  frozen  solid;  leave  the  end  of 'the  row  un- 
covered. Then,  farther  on,  put  on  mulching  and  increase  the  depth 
until,  at  the  farther  end,  it  is  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  deep;  leave  this 
on.  The  covering  keeps  the  frost  in;  then  the  plant  will  take  some 
time  to  push  up  through  the  mulching.  You  can  apply  this  system  to 
the  later  varieties  and  so  lengthen  the  flowering  season  considerably." 
A  word  may  be  necessary  to  explain  the  method  of  doubling  in  the 
Peony.  TJie  normal  or  single  flower  is  composed  of  petals  (we  shall 
call  all  the  petals  "guard  petals"  in  this  case) ;  stamens  or  the  male  part 
of  the  flower  (these  are  yellow  at  the  tip  and  bear  pollen) ;  the  pistil, 
each  section  of  which  we  call  a  carpel  (this  is  often  red  and  bears  the 
seed).  In  doubling,  the  stamens  become  wider  and  wider  until  they 


72  GARDEN  GUIDE 

resemble  the  petals;  then  we  call  them  petaloids.  In  the  same  way 
the  seed-bearing  power  is  lost  by  the  female  parts,  changing  to  resemble 
petals  at  the  center  of  the  flower. 

The  following  are  the  types  recognized  by  the  American  Peony 
Society: 

1.  Single.     (Have  also  been  called  Anemone-flowering  type.)    There 
are  a  few  broad  petals,  the  center  being  filled  with  stamens. 

2.  Japanese.    In  this  type  doubling  has  just  begun;  the  filaments 
of  the  stamens  have  widened;  the  anthers  are  also  much  developed. 
The  guard  petals,  the  petals  at  the  base  of  the  flower,  are  the  same  as 
in  the  single  varieties. 

3.  Bomb.    The  petaloides,  or  the  transformed  stamens,  have  be- 
come still  wider  and  thickly  set;  the  petals  approach  the  guards  in 
form,  but  are  still  distinguishable  from  each  other. 

4.  Semi-double.    Several    rows    of    large    petals    and    some  with 
petaloides  in  all  stages  of  transformation.    A  loose  bloom. 

5.  Crown.    When  the  carpels,   the  parts  of  the  pistil,  transform 
into  petals  they  may  form  a  different  center  from  the  guard  petals 
and  petaloides,  giving  the  appearance  of  a  small  Rose  in  the  center 
of  the  flower. 

6.  Rose.    A   fully   double   form.    The   stamens    and  carpels   are 
both  transformed.     It  is  really  a  developed  Romb,  for  in  this  case 
the  petaloids  are  merely  wider  and  indistinguishable  from  the  guard 
petals. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  best  varieties  for  home  grounds: 

FESTIVA  MAXIMA.    White,  center  carmine;  MARIE   LEMOINE.      A   very   late    sulphur 

medium  early.  white. 

COURONNE  D'OR.     A  late-bloomyig,  semi-  MODESTE  GUERIN.    Bright  rose  pink;  mid- 
double  white.                               .  season. 

MONSIEUR  JULES  ELIE.     An  early  silvery  MME.  DUCEL.  Silvery  pink,  flushed  salmon; 

pink.  vigorous  dwarf;  midseason. 

GRANDIFLORA.     Late,  bright  flesh  pink.  MME.  VERNEVILLE.    Rosy  white,  with  sul- 

DUCHESSEDE J^EMOURS.    Deep  pink,  early;  phur  white  guard  petals. 

a  fine  double.  BARONESS  SCHRSDER.     Flesh  changing  to 

EDULIS  SUPERBA.     An  early  dark  pink.  white;  vigorous;  excellent. 

FELIX  CROUSSE.     Midseason;   a  brilliant  LIVINGSTONE.     Fine  late  flower  of  silvery 

red.  Pink. 

JEANNE   D'ARC.     Large,   soft   pink;   mid-  MONSIEUR    DUPONT.      Ivory   white    with 

season.  lively  carmine  border  on  central  petals. 

AVALANCHE.      Milk    white,    with    creamy  LA  TULIPE.     Semi-double;  almost  white; 

center.  mid-season. 

EUGENE  VERDIER.     Salmon  pink,  chang-  DELACHIE.     Dark  red;  semi-double;   mid- 
ing  to  clear  pink.  season. 

The  soil  should  preferably  be  heavy  rather  than  light;  a  clay  loam 
is  excellent  if  it  can  be  worked  deeply.  The  Peony  is  a  gross  feeder  and 
enjoys  a  good  mulch  of  well  rotted  manure  in  the  Winter. 

PLANTING  AND  CULTIVATION.  The  time  for  planting  or  trans- 
planting is  August,  when  the  plant  has  completed  its  growth.  When 


THE  PEONY 


73 


Types  of  Peonies 


S.— Single,    showing   (g),   guard   petals;   (s),  stamens;    (c),  carpels  or 
lobes  of  pistil. 

J.— Japanese  type;  stamens  wider  than  in  Single. 

B. — Bomb  type.    The  stamens  become  narrow  petals,  called  petaloides. 

SD.— Semi-double.    Many  petaloides  are  quite  wide  and  are  mixed 
among  the  stamens. 

C. — Grown.  The  stamens  are  wider  and  petal-like.  The  carpels,  which 
before  have  remained  unchanged,  are  now  petal-like. 

R.— Rose.    In  this  type  there  is  an  entire  transformation  of    the 
bloom. 


Rack  for  supporting  Peonies 


74  GARDEN  GUIDE 

transferred  in  the  Spring  many  of  the  feeding  roots  will  be  torn  from 
the  plants.  The  roots  of  the  Peony  are  thick,  almost  no  fibrous  roots 
being  formed;  instead,  very  fine,  delicate  feeding  roots  start  from  the 
main  roots. 

The  plants  should  be  planted  at  least  three  feet  apart  and  the 
crowns  should  be  buried  three  inches  below  the  surface.  If  they  are 
planted  too  shallow  the  Winder  frosts  will-  heave  them  from  the  soil. 
A  Winter  mulch  of  from  four  to  six  inches  of  well  decayed  manure  will 
also  prevent  this  injury.  When  the  plants  have  finished  blooming, 
the  cultivation  must  not  be  neglected  since  they  must  make  a  good 
growth  and  mature  their  foliage,  else  the  crop  of  bloom  for  the  next 
year  will  suffer.  Every  eight  or  ten  years  the  Peony  should  be  divided 
and  replanted.  It  takes  two  or  three  years*  for  a  commercial  three-  to 
five-eyed  root  to  throw  characteristic  blooms. 

DISBUDDING.  The  albiflora  varieties  produce  many  buds  in  a 
cluster;  if  the  best  size  blooms  are  preferred,  all  but  the  main  or  crown 
bud  should  be  removed  while  they  are  yet  small.  Some  weaker  growing 
varieties  are  especially  benefited  by  this  practice.  Single  varieties 
are  not  disbudded. 

STAKING.  Certain  very  floriferous  varieties  will  need  some 
sort  of  support.  One  of  the  best  and  most  permanent  methods  is  to 
build  a  rack  of  wood  over  the  Peony  border  and  train  the  young  shoots 
inside  of  this  rack.  For  individual  plants  there  is  no  better  way  than 
to  use  a  barrel  hoop  supported  on  three  uprights. 

DISEASES.  There  are  several  diseases  which  attack  the  leaves, 
buds  and  stems.  They  are  easily  kept  in  check  by  spraying  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  when  the  plants  first  start  into  growth  in  the 
Spring.  Besides  this,  the  diseased  parts  and  all  stems  should  be 
burned  each  Fall,  for  only  by  careful  sanitation  can  the  trouble  be 
lessened. 

THE  GANNA 

These  handsome  subjects  mark  a  wonderful  development  by  the 
plant  breeder.  At  first  the  Gannas  were  only  prized  as  a  foliage  plant; 
the  petals  were  narrow  and  the  flower  was  very  unattractive.  Now 
we  have  an  excellent  series  of  wonderful  Cannas  with  superbly  colored 
gigantic  flowers,  all  of  which  are  of  easy  culture  and  great  value  for 
Jhe  garden,  where  they  are  planted  in  formal  beds  or  mixed  in  the 
perennial  border. 

STARTING  GANNAS.  Early  in  April  the  'roots,  which  have  been 
stored  during  the  Winter,  are  best  cut  up  so  that  there  are  one  to  three 
buds  or  eyes  on  each  piece.  They  can  then  be  planted  in  boxes  of  sand 
or  sandy  soil  and  placed  in  a  light  window.  If  the  season  is  late  and 


CANNAS 


the  plants  get  rather  large,  they  should  be  placed  in  pots;  those  four 
inches  high  are  generally  large  enough. 

Cannas  are  tender  and  should  not  be  planted  in  the  open  ground 
before  all  danger  of  frost  is  past.  There  is  no  advantage  in  planting  too 
early,  for  they  do  not  make  good  growth,  till  the  ground  becomes  warm. 

PREPARING  GANNA  BED.  Spread  a  wheelbarrow  load  of  manure 
over  each  square  yard  of  soil  and  dig  deeply;  this  means  that  the  soil 
needs  loosening  to  a  depth  of  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches.  The  deeper 
the  digging  the  better  will  the  bed  absorb  water. .  Large-leaved 
plants  always  require  lots  of  water.  Careful  attention  must  be  given 
to  the  question  of  the  planting  of  varieties  of  harmonious  colors  as 
well  as  of  the  proper  heights.  The  following  table  of  varieties  is 
supplied  by  the  Gonard  &  Jones  Co.: 


Dwarf 

Medium 

Tall 

Up  to  3  ft. 

3  ft.  to  4  ft. 

-  Over  4  ft. 

White 

Blanche  Wiutzer 
Mont.  Blanc  Impr. 

Flag  of  Truce 

Express 
Philadelphia 
Pres.  McKinley 
Triumph 

Beacon 
Brandywine 
Chautauqua 
Cherokee 
Comte  de  Sachs 

Pocahontas 
Conowingo 
Giant  Crimson 
Jupiter 
Louisiana 

Red 

Duke  of  Marlboro 
George  Washington 

Mrs.  Geo.  A.  Strohlein 
Mrs.  Kate  Gray 

Italia 
King  Humbert 
Patrie 
Wm.  Saunders 

New  York 
Olympic 
Pennsylvania 
Splendor                  * 

Dragon 

Uncle  Sam 

Betsy  Ross 

Eastern  Beauty 

Lorraine  Improved 

Hiawatha 

Luray 

Louise 

Loveliness 

Minnehaha 

West  Grove 

Pink 

Martha  Washington 

Mrs.  A.  F.  Conard 

Wawa 

Rosea  Gigantea 

Venus 

Wabash 

Yellow 

Buttercup 
Director  Holtze 

Brilliant 
Kate  F.  Deemer 

Austria 

Dr.  Nansen 

Yellow  and  Red 

Elizabeth  Hoss 
Florence  Vaughan 

Gladiator 

Gaiety 

Orange 

Queen  of  Holland 

California 

Indiana 

Wyoming 

Halley's  Comet 

Gladioflora 

Allemania 

Variegated 

Niagara 
Panama 

Sam  Trelease  Impr. 

Burbank 
Duke  of  York 

Souv.  de  A.  Crozy 

Jennie  Walls  Fahnline 

Striped  Beauty 

Maid  of  Orleans 

Mrs.  Carl  Kelsey 

Gannas  usually  spread  a  little  and,  as  they  are  large  growing, 
should  be  planted  at  least  eighteen  inches  apart.  The  Orchid-flowering 
varieties  require  from  twenty  to  twenty-two  inches  between  the  plants. 


76  GARDEN  GUIDE 

GANNAS  FROM  SEED.  Canna  seed  is  as  hard  as  shot.  It  is 
difficult  to  get  water  through  the  seed  coat  so  that  the  seed  can  start 
growth.  Mr.  F.  P.  Avery  describes  an  experience  with  starting  seed. 
He  says:  "  March  22d  I  received  some  seed.  I  have  access  to  an 
emery  wheel,  and  I  ground  down  to  the  white  meat  on  every  seed. 
That  same  evening  I  poured' hot  water  on  them,  and  kept  them  in 
hot  water  until  the  evening  of  March  27th,  giving  the  seeds  a  five  days' 
bath.  I  found  four  seeds  showing  a  white  germ  the  size  of  a  pin-head. 
I  put  the  lot  in  a  big  dish  of  sand,  covering  them  about  an  inch.  The 
dish  stood  in  a  hot  place  over  a  stove,  where  the  seeds  luxuriated  in 
bottom  heat  and  had  hot  sunshine.  Fifteen  days  after  I  put  the 
seeds  to  soak  there  were  more  than  two  hundred  plants,  averaging  two 
inches  in  height.  Some  are  three  inches  and  some  three  and  one-half 
inches  tall.  If  these  plants  keep  growing  as  they  have  begun  they 
will  match  any  plants  started  from  roots  by  the  time  warm  weather 
comes.  Heat' and  moisture  do  the  business,  and  March  is  a  good 
month  for  starting  the  seeds,  for  fire  heat  is  needed."  Instead  of 
using  an  emery  wheel,  the  seeds  are  frequently  nicked  with  a  file. 

DIGGING  AND  STORING.  When  the  tops  are  killed  by  the  frost 
the  roots  can  be  dug  in  the  morning,  and  if  the  day  is  sunny  they  can 
-be  left  to  dry.  They  are  easily  stored  in  any  place  where  Potatoes 
keep  at  all  well.  They  must  be  kept  warm,  for  if  they  are  cold  and 
damp  they  decay.  They  may  either  be  buried  in  sand  or  soil,  although 
sand  is  preferable.  It  is  really  unnecessary  to  wait  till  the  tops  die 
down,  for  the  beds  may  be  wanted  to  plant  with  bulbs,  in  which  case 
let  the  Cannas  grow  as  long  as  possible  and  then  dig  them. 

THE  DAHLIA 

There  is  little  question  why  the  Dahlia  has  gained  in  popularity. 
The  newer  varieties  win  our  admiration  as  soon  as  we  see  them.  Should 
you  insist  that  the  Dahlia  is  very  formal  and  stiff  we  should  answer 
that  the  ones  to  which  you  refer  are  perhaps  stiff  because  they  were 
carefully  bred  for  regularity  and  symmetry,  and  you  would  look  upon 
them  as  triumphs  of  the  breeder's  art  if  you  knew  that  the  modern 
varieties  have  been  evolved  from  several  wild  Mexican  species.  Near 
Mexico  City,  at  an  altitude  of  one  thousand  to  two  thousand  feet 
above  that  of  the  city,  we  find  the  wild  forms  on  sides  of  the  deep 
ravines  in  partial  shade.  It  is  hot  in  the  daytime,  but  really  gets  cold 
at -night.  How  nicely  this  explains  why  our  varieties  bloom  best  nearer 
the  cooler  days  of  Autumn. 

It  was  at  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  before  the  Dahlia 
reached  Europe  and  soon  after  three  varieties  were  known.  Soon 


THE  DAHLIA  77 

doubles  were  produced.  The  flat  ones  were  first  very  popular;  then 
the  ball  shaped  blossoms  of  the  show  type  were  greatly  in  evidence. 
Between  1830  and  I860  the  interest  in  Dahlias  became  intense,  and 
great  premiums  were  paid  for  good  varieties.  Then  in  1870  followed 
varieties  which  were  flatter,  less  formed  and  delicately  colored.  In 
1872  a  new  species,  Dahlia  Jaurezii,  was  introduced.  This  is  the 
progenitor  of  the  Cactus  Dahlia,  a  type  universally  admired  at 


Even  without  any  flowers  the  Ganna  is  beautiful 

present  because  of  its  graceful  fornrand  delicate  coloring.  The  Cactus 
types  are  combined  with  the  singles  to"produce  the  Peony-flowered 
forms  from  which  have  been  eliminated  the  week  stems,  resulting  in 
an  exalted  form,  and  good,  shaped  blooms  of  matchless  colors  borne 
upon  wonderfully  strong  plants.  The  large  flowered  singles  are 
having  a  great  wave  of  popularity  now,  for  they  are  often  beautifully 
colored.  In  1899  there  was  a  pretty  type  produced  in  France  in  which 
there  is  a  row  of  smaller  and  much  more  'slender  petals,  of  a  different 
color,  surrounding  the  central  disk  of  an  otherwise  single  flower.  This 
type  has  been  termed  the  Collarette  Dahlia. 

The  American  Dahlia  Society's  classification  of  Dahlias  may  be 
of  interest  for  reference: 

1.    CACTUS  DAHLIAS 

A.    TRUE,  FLUTED  TYPE:    Flowers  fully  double;  floral  rays  ("petals") 
long,  narrow,  incurved  or  twisted,  with  sharp,  divided,  or  fluted  points  and 


78  GARDEN  GUIDE 

with  revolute  ("rolled  back")  margins,  forming,  in  the  outer  florets,  a  more 
or  less  perfect  tube  for  more  than  half  the  length  of  the  ray. 

Typical  examples:  Snowdon,  T.  G.  Baker,  Mrs.  Douglas  Fleming, 
J.  H.  Jackson,  H.  H.  Thomas  and  Rev.  T.  W.  Jamieson. 

B.  HYBRID  CACTUS  OR  SEMI-GAGTUS  TYPE:  Flowers  fully  double; 
floral  rays  ("petals")  short  as  compared  with  previous  type,  broad,  flat, 
recurved  or  twisted,  not  sharply  pointed  except  when  tips  are  divided 
("staghorn"),  margins  only  slightly  revolute  ("rolled  back"),  and  tubes 
of  outer  florets,  if  any,  less  than  half  the  length  of  the  ray. 

Typical  examples:  Master  Carl,  Perle  de  Lyon,  Flora,  Mrs.  J.  T. 
Mace,  Kalif  and  Rheinkoenig. 

2.     DECORATIVE  DAHLIAS 

Double  flowers,  full  to  center  in  early  season,  flat  rather  than  ball- 
shaped,  with  broad,  flat,  somewhat  loosely  arranged  floral  rays  (".petals") 
with  broad  points  or  rounded  tips  which  are  straight  or  decurved  (turned 
down  or  back),  not  incurved,  and  with  margins  revolute  (rolled  back)  if 
rolled  at  all. 

Includes  forms  like  those  of  Souvenir  de  Gustave  Douzon,  Jeanne 
Gharmet,  Le  Grand  Manitou,  Delice,  Lyndhurst  and  Bertha  Von  Suttner, 
but  does  not  include  Le  Golosse,  Mrs.  Roosevelt,  Dreer's  White,  Grand 
Duke  Alexis  or  similar  forms,  which  fall  into  section  B.  of  the  ball-shaped 
double  Dahlias. 

3.     BALL-SHAPED  DOUBLE  DAHLIAS 

A.  SHOW  TYPE:     Double  flowers,  globular  or  ball-shaped  rather 
than  broad  or  flat,  full  to  center,  showing  regular  spiral  arrangement  of 
florets;  floral  rays  more  or  less  quilled  or  with  markedly  involute  (rolled 
in)  margins  and  rounded  tips. 

(The  class  called  Fancy  Dahlias  is  not  recognized  separately  in  this  classification,  but 
is  included  in  this  Sub-section  A.) 

Typical  examples  of  Show  Dahlias:  Arabella,  Dorothy  Peacock,  Gold 
Medal,  John  Walker,  Colonist  and  A.  D.  Livoni. 

B.  HYBRID  SHOW,  GIANT  SHOW  OR  COLOSSAL  TYPE:    Flowers  fully 
double,  broadly  hemi-spherical  to  flatly  globular  in  form,  loosely  built  so 
spiral  arrangement  of  florets  is  not  immediately  evident;  floral  rays  ("pet- 
als") broad,  heavy,  cupped  or  quilled,  with  rounded   tips  and   involute 
(rolled  in  or  forward)  margins. 

Typical  examples:  Grand  Duke  Alexis,  Cuban  Giant,  Mrs.  Roose- 
velt, Le  Colosse,  W.  W.  Rawson  and  Golden  West. 

G.  POMPON  TYPE:  Shape  and  color  may  be  same  as  of  A.  or  B.; 
but  must  be  under  two  inches  in  diameter. 

Typical  examples:  Fairy  Queen,  Belle  of  Springfield,  Darkest  of  All, 
Nerissa,  Little  Herman  and  Snowclad. 

4.     PEONY-FLOWERED  OR  "ART".  DAHLIAS 
Semi-double  flowers  with  open  center,  the  inner  floral  rays  ("petals") 

being  usually  curled  or  twisted,  the  other  or  outer  petals  being  either  flat 

or  more  or  less  irregular. 

Typical  examples:    Queen  Wilhelmina,  Geisha,  Hampton  Court,  Mrs. 

W.  Kerr,  P.  W.  Janssen,  and  Glory  of  Baarn. 

5.     DUPLEX  DAHLIAS 

Semi-double  flowers,  with  center  always  exposed  on  opening'of  bud, 
with  petals  in  more  than  one  row,  more  than  12,  long  and  flat,  or  broad 


THE  DAHLIA  79 

and  rounded,  not  noticeably  twisted  or  curled.     (Many  so-called  Peony- 
flowered  Dahlias  belong  here.) 

•     Typical  examples:   Big  Chief,  Souv.  de  Franz  Listz,  Merry  Widow, 
Sensation,  Prairie  Fire  and  Hortulanus  Budde. 

6.     SINGLE  DAHLIAS 

Open  centered  flowers,  small  to  very  large,  with  eight  to  twelve  floral 
rays  ("petals")  more  or  less  in  one  circle,  margins  often  decurved  (turned 
down  or  back).  There  are  no  distinctions  as  to  colors.  The  type  em- 
braces the  large  Twentieth  Century  as  well  as  the  smaller  English  varieties. 

Typical  examples:  White  Century,  Golden  Century,  Scarlet  Century, 
Newport  Marvel  (of  the  large  flowered  forms);  with  Polly  Eccles,  Leslie 
Seale,  Danish  Cross  and  Ami  Barillet  (of  the  lesser  flowered  forms). 

The  Star  singles  and  Cactus  singles  are  omitted  from'the  present  classification  scheme 
as  not  being  sufficiently  numerous  or  well  defined  yet. 

7.     COLLARETTE  DAHLIAS 

Open  centered  blossoms  with  not  more  than  nine  floral  rays  ("petals"), 
with  one  or  more  smaller  rays,  usually  of  a  different  color,  from  heart  of 
each  ray  floret,  making  a  collar  about  the  disk. 

Typical  examples:  Maurice  Rivoire,  Souvenir  de  Chabanne,  Diadem, 
Orphee,  Madame  Poirier  and  Albert  Maumene. 

8.    ANEMONE-FLOWERED  DAHLIAS 

Flowers  with  one  row  of  large  floral  rays  ("petals")  like  single  Dahlias, 
but  with  each  disk  flower  producing  small,  tubular  petals. 

Includes  such  forms  as  those  of  Graziella,  Mme.  Chas.  Molin,  Claude 
Barnard  and  Mme.  Pierre  Dupont. 

9.     OTHER  SECTIONS 

MINIATURE  OR  POMPON  CACTUS:  Small  flowered,  stellate  fine  petaled 
cactus  Dahlias  represented  by  Tom-tit,  Mary,  Nora,  Minima.  MIGNON  OR 
TOM  THUMB:  Dwarf,  bushy,  single  flowered  Dahlias  for  edging.  Typical 
example:  Jules  Closson.  BEDDING  DAHLIA:  A  taller,  more  upright  type 
than  the  Tom  Thumb.  Typical  examples:  Barlow's  Bedder  and  Midget 
Improved.  COCKADE  OF  ZONAL  DAHLIAS:  Single  or  collarette  Dahlias,  with 
three  distinct  bands  'of  color  about  center.  Type  hardly  known  hi 
America,  but  includes  forms  such  as  those  of  Cockade  Espagnole 

CULTIVATION.  The  Dahlia  is  typically  Fall  blooming  and 
succeeds  in  any  location  where  killing  frosts  do  not  come  too  early. 
If  the  plants  are  not  seriously  checked  in  their  growth  by  frosts,  they 
will  usually  bloom  very  nicely  in  most  parts  of  New  York  State,  New 
England  and  the  Central  West.  The  soils  best  adapted  to  Dahlias 
are  those  which  are  somewhat -sandy,  but  they  will  grow  on  heavy 
clay.  The  regions  which  are  influenced  more  or  less  by  the  ocean, 
that  is,  where  cool  nights  are  prevalent,  are  perhaps  the  most  noted 
for  Dahlia  growing,  especially  Long  Island,  New  Jersey,  Rhode 
Island,  Maryland  and  Massachusetts  in  the  East,  and  without  a 


80  GARDEN  GUIDE 

doubt  the  best  Dahlias  we  have  ever  seen  were  in  British  Columbia, 
Northern*  California,  Washington  and  Oregon.  Heavy  soils  may  be 
lightened  by  coal  ashes.  Sand  and  lighter  soils  will  benefit  by  manure 
to  make  them  more  moisture-retaining.  Nitrogenous  fertilizers  are 
rarely  applied,  because  they  cause  too  great  vegetative  growth  and  a 
retarding  of  the  flowering  period. 

STARTING  THE  TUBERS.  The  tubers  should  be  started  about 
April  1st  in  a  warm,  light  room,  merely  placing  them  in  a  shallow  box 
of  sand  or  light  soil.  When  the  young  shoots  begin  to  show,  they 
should  be  so  cut  that  one  or  two  eyes  are  allowed  to  remain  on  each 
piece;  the  eyes  start  from  the  collar  (see  page  201). 


Hedge  of  Dahlias  and  typical  home  in  Victoria,  B.  C.     . 

TIME  AND  DISTANCE  OF  PLANTING.  They  may  be  planted  late 
in  April  or  May,  according  to  the  season.  It  is  better  to  set  them  out 
late  than  too  early.  As  the  Dahlia  makes  a  large  plant  it  should  be 
given  plenty  of  room;  even  four  feet  by  four  feet  is  not  too  much  if 
the  variety  is  a  large  one.  Planted  much  closer  the  plants  are  difficult 
to  tend. 

SUPPORTING.  Use  some  method  of  support  immediately  when 
the  plants  are  set  so  that  they  may  be  "  brought  up  in  the  way  they 
should  go  "  from  the  very  start.  The  average  root  will  make  several 
shoots.  Allow  them  to  grow  until  they  make  the  first  set  of  leaves; 
by  that  time  the  strongest  can  be  selected  and  the  others  cut  away  be- 
low the  surface  of  the  soil.  Sometimes  two  shoots  may  be  allowed  to 
grow,  but  never  more;  as  a  rule  one  shoot  is  sufficient.  Tie  the 
shoot  to  the  stake  when  about  a  foot  high  and  do  not  neglect  tying 
as  the  plant  develops,  for  this  is  very  important. 


THE  DAHLIA  81 

FOR  ATTAINING  LARGE  FLOWERS.  If  the  soil  is  carefully  and 
diligently  cultivated  there  will  be  little  need  for  watering,  which  is 
detrimental  unless  consistently  practised.  Thorough  watering  should 
be  given  each  time  and  at  regular  intervals;  otherwise  plants  will  be 
checked  and  flowers  will  suffer. 

In  order  that  each  individual  flower  may  be  as  large  as  possible, 
especially  in  the  case  of  the  show  and  fancy  types,  which  produce  a 
great  many  flowers  of  medium  size,  it  is  best  to  disbud  the  main  branches 
leaving  only  the  terminal  bud.  It  is  often  best  to  allow  only  six  or 
eight  branches.  The  singles,  collarettes  and  pompons  are  rarely 
pruned  or  disbudded,  the  idea  being  to  get  plants  with  as  many  flowers 
as  possible.  The  cactus  varieties  are  apt  to  have  their  weak  neck 
habit  intensified  by  excessive  pruning  and  disbudding,  so  that  they 
should  be  cautiously  disbudded,  removing  only  part  of  the  buds. 

Flowers  are  best  cut  in  the  morning  or  evening  and*  any  foliage 
not  wanted  should  be  removed.  The  stems  should  then  be  placed  in 
water  up  to  the  base  of  the  flowers  and  removed  to  a  cool  place.  Hard- 
stemmed  varieties  are  best  placed  in  hot  water  and  allowed  to  remain 
until  the  water  cools,  when  they  should  be  removed  to  fresh  cold 
water.  Under  no  circumstances  attempt  to  ship  for  exhibition  with- 
out the  pre-cooling. 

STORAGE.  When  the  Autumn  killing  frosts  arrive,  perhaps  in 
mid-October,  and  the  foliage  is  killed,  take  up  the  plants  and  allow 
them  to  dry  a  little  in  the  sun.  Cut  off  the  old  stems  so  that  a  stub 
of  three  inches  is  left.  Then  place  them  in  a  cellar  where  temperature 
will  surely  remain  above  freezing,  about  forty  to  forty-five  degrees  F. 
They  may  best  be  placed  with  the  stems  down  on  shelves  and  covered 
with  soil  or  sand.  With  large  tubers  it  will  be  unnecessary  to  cover 
them;  merely  place  them  in  a  heap  on  shelf  or  floor,  keeping  the  stems 
to  outside.  Do  not  let  them  get  dried  out;  if  they  shrivel,  sprinkle  a 
little  water  over  them.  If  kept  too  moist  they  soon  mildew. 

THE  RAISING  OF  DAHLIAS  FROM  SEED.  This  is  fascinating 
work,  particularly  the  single  forms.  Of  these,  if  the  seed  is  sown  in  a 
frame  or  greenhouse  in  March,  the  plants  will  come  into  bloom  in 
July;  they  will  also  flower  if  the  seed  is  sown  where  it  is  to  remain, 
the  same  as  most  of  the  annuals.  The  seed  of  the  double  Dahlias 
should  be  sown  in  February  or  March,  and  the  plants  grown  on  the 
same  as  if  from  cuttings.  With  good  care  they  will  come  into  flower 
early  in  September,  when  the  pleasure  commences.  The  certainty  of 
getting  something  good,  and  the  possibility  of  getting  a  flower  worthy 
a  name,  possibly  better  than  any  of  the  existing  forms  or  varieties, 
makes  this  branch  of  floriculture  more  interesting  than  any  other. 

The  young  seedlings  should  be  set  close  together,  not  more  than 


82  GARDEN  GUIDE 

two  feet  apart;  when  they  come  into  flower  weed  out  such  as  are  not 
desirable  to  keep.  Another  reason  for  close  planting  is  that  the 
plants  do  not  attain  in  their  first  season  as  large  growth  as  if  from  tubers. 
This  does  not  apply  to  the  single  forms,  which  reach  their  limit  of  size 
the  first  season. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

The  word  Chrysanthemum  has  been  derived  from  the  Greek 
chrysos,  gold,  and  anthemon,  flower. 

It  is  very  interesting  to  see  just  how  many  plants  are  really 
Chrysanthemums.  The  wild  Ox-Eye  Daisy,  the  Shasta  Daisy,  the 
Pyrethrum  (from  which  insect  powder  is  made),  the  Feverfew  of  our 
grandmother's  garden,  the  Marguerite  or  Paris  Daisy  of  the  florist, 
as  well  as  the  monster  decorative  blooms  of  the  expert  culturist  in- 
doors, are  all  Chrysanthemums. 

Some  of  the  Chrysanthemums,  or  'Mums,  as  the  gardener  affec- 
tionately calls  them,  are  annuals,*  In  the  case  of  most  of  the  annual 
species  the  blooms  resemble  huge  Daisies.  They  are  white  or  some 
shade  of  yellow,  and  often,  as  hi  the  case  of  Chrysanthemum  carina- 
tum,  they  have  a  maroon  or  red  ring  of  color  at  the  center.  The  an- 
nual types  can  all  be  sown  in  April,  in  the  open  ground,  where  they 
should  be  thinned  to  eight  inches,  or,  if  large  plants  are  wanted,  pinch 
them  back  when  .several  leaves  tall,  and  place  twelve  inches  apart. 
A  rich,  sandy  loam  suits  them  best  and  they  surely  love  the  sun. 

They  bloom  profusely  throughout  the  Summer  and  early  Fall. 
The  species  known  as  Golden  Feather  (Chrysanthemum  prsealtum  var. 
aureum)  should  be  sown  indoors  in  Marclvand  though  really  a  peren- 
nial, it  is  treated  as  an  annual.  It  is  used  as  a  yellow  border  plant. 

An  excellent  characteristic  of  some  perennial  Chrysanthemums 
is  that  they  reproduce  themselves  so  nicely  by  the  production  of 
suckers  or  underground  stems.  One  of  the  species  which  multiplies 
itself  in  this  manner  is  the  Feverfew  (Chrysanthemum  Parthenium). 
It  is  a  very  old  plant,  but  it  certainly  bears  an  interesting  little  tufted 
white  and  yellow  flower  in  clusters  which,  coming  in  June,  is  well 
worthy  of  a  place  in  the  garden.  It  self-sows  its  seed,  but  rarely  be- 
comes a  nuisance. 

Two  white,  Daisy-like  species  are  well  worthy  of  a  place  in  your 
garden.  The  first  is  the  Shasta  Daisy  (Chrysanthemum  maximum), 
a  gigantic  white  field  Daisy  of  very  vigorous  growth  and  producing 
flowers  from  June  throughout  the  Summer.  They  have  very  good 
keeping  qualities  and  are  effective  in  the  border  or  as  a  cut  flower. 
Another  species,  a  shrubby  Daisy  (Chrysanthemum  nipponicum), 


HARDY  CHRYSANTHEMUMS 


83 


blooms  in  the  Fall  and  produces  its  flowers  on  the  stems  from  the  old 
shoots  of  the  previous  year. 

The  class  known  as  the  hardy  Chrysanthemums  and  which 
resemble  the  indoor  varieties,  are  of  two  types,  the  button-like  or 
pompons,  and  the  Aster-like  or  large-flowering  varieties.  Most  of 
the  varieties  are  hardy  if  protected  in  the  Winter  by  dry  leaves.  They 
enjoy  constant  cultivation  and  a  rich  soil  which  has  been  deeply  pre- 


Iris  border  backed  with  shrubs  in  a  semi-wild  garden 

pared.  They  are  best  planted  in  the  Spring  and  advice  is  frequently 
given  that  all  old  plants  should  be  divided  up  and  reset  each  year, 
for  they  exhaust  the  soil.  Good  seed  is  now  available  of  this  type 
and  they  may  be  grown  successfully  by  this  method. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  have  grown  four  niches  tall,  especially  if 
few  plants  are  available,  and  a  good  display  is  wished,  they  should  be 
pinched.  This  will  cause  them  to  branch  nicely,  each  shoot  bearing 
a  number  of  buds.  From  the  very  start  in  growth  the  plants  must  be 
staked.  The  greatest  fault  with  this  group  is  that  they  all  fall  down 
near  blooming  timej  but  the  whole  beauty  of  the  plant  is  destroyed 


84  ,       GARDEN  GUIDE 

if  the  staking  is  neglected.  The  shoots  can  easily  be  tied  to  stakes 
if  the  stakes  are  once  in  place.  If  the  very  largest  flowers  rather 
than  the  greatest  quantity  of  bloom  are  wanted,  feed  with  liquid 
manure  when  buds  begin  to  show,  and  remove  many  of  the  smaller 
buds  on  each  stem.  Chrysanthemum  blooms  will  be  much  better  if  a 
covering  is  placed  over  them  during  the  cold  Fall  rains  or  on  the 
nights  of  frosts. 

PYRETHRUMS.  A  very  charming  group  of  perennial  Chrysan- 
themums is  the  Pyrethrum  (Chrysanthemum  coccineum),  Spring 
Chrysanthemum,  or  Pink  Daisy,  as  it  is  variously  called.  The  flowers 
are  white,  pink,t  rose,  carmine,  lilac,  and  yellow,  and  are  borne  upon 
long  stems,  lending  themselves  nicely  to  cutting.  The  plants  bloom 
in  June  and  if  the  flower  stems  are  cut  soon  after  flowering  they  often 
bloom  a  little  in  Fall.  The  foliage  is  finely  cut  and  attractive. 

The  plants  are  not  difficult  to  grow,  but  a  well  drained  light  loam 
is  most  favorable.  They  appreciate  good  tilth  and  plenty  of  well 
decayed  manure  in  the  soil.  The  seed,  if  sown  one  Spring,  will  bloom 
the  next  year.  The  plants  are  sometimes  troubled  with  slugs,  which 
are  best  controlled  by  covering  the  crown  with  coal  ashes. 

IRISES 

Could  the  real  beauty  of  the  coloring  of  the  Iris  be  expressed  in 
words,  such  a  description  would  be  a  masterpiece.  The  word  "  iris  " 
has  come  from  the  Greek  for  rainbow.  It  is  the  colors  of  the  rainbow 
we  deal  with  in  growing  Iris.  When  the  form  of  the  Iris  bloom  is 
considered  we  realize  that  it  is  most  dainty  and  elegant  and  surpassed 
by  few  other  flowers.  The  fragrance  of  many  varieties  is  so  dainty 
that  it  vies  with  that  of  any  Rose.  The  adaptability  to  varying  con- 
ditions, such  as  excessive  moisture,  continued  drought,  extended 
freezing  and  almost  perfect  baking,  is  remarkable.  The  rapid 
reproduction  of  most  varieties  is  an  important  point  in  its  favor. 
Recause  of  all  of  these  favorable  attributes  we  commend  the  various 
forms  of  this  incomparable  flower. 

We  shall  mention  only  the  forms  of  easiest  growth.  They  will 
be  sufficient  until  one  realizes  the  true  range  of  excellence  which  is 
found  in  the  roll  of  its  one  hundred  and  forty  species;  then  you  will 
grow  Californian  Iris  from  seed,  you  will  erect  frames  especially  for 
the  proper  drying  of  your  Oncocyclus  Iris  and  no  amount  of  labor 
will  be  too  much  if  the  new  variety  can  only  be  made  to  bloom  for 
you.  That  is  for  the  future. 

To  appreciate  the  Iris  one  should  have  a  little  idea  of  what  its 
parts  are.  The  flower  consists  normally  of  three,  petals  which  stand 


IRISES 


85 


upright,  and  three  which  droop  more  or  less;  these  are  well  named, 
respectively,  the  standards  and  the  falls.  Inside  of  the  standards  are 
noticed  three  petal-like  parts;  these  are  actually  lobes  of  the  pistil, 
the  female  parts  of  the  flower;  it  is  a  most  peculiar  formation,  especially 
when  we  know  that  the  little  fringed  pocket  at  the  apex  of  each  is 
really  the  stigma  or  part  which  receives  the  pollen.  .  The  two-forked 
tip  of  the  pistil  is  called  the  crest.  Just  beneath  the  pistil  is  a  stamen, 
the  male  part  of  the  flower.  If  we  look  at  a  German  Iris  we  will  find 


The  wonderful  Japanese  Iris  (I.  laevigata  or  I.  Kaempferi),  colonized. 

While  enjoying  a  moist,  open  situation  this  Iris  does  well  in  a  variety 

of  soils  and  positions 


a  very  heavy  beard  on  the  base  of  the  fall,  while  the  Japanese  and 
Siberian  Irises  do  not  have  this  tuft  of  hairs.  In  some  Irises  the 
standards  are  very  small,  often  smaller  than  the  crests  of  the  pistil. 
Many  times  the  standards,  though  large,  do  not  stand  upright  at  all. 
There  is  a  notion  that  Irises  are  all  water  loving;  this  is  not  true. 
Two  Irises  only  can  be.  planted  in  the  water;  these  are  the  common  Blue 
Flag  (Iris  versicolor),  our  little  wild  Iris,  and  the  yellow*  European 


86  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Iris  (Iris  pseudacorus).  These  two  Irises  may  well  be  used  in  water 
gardens,  but  they  will  succeed  perfectly  in  ordinary  garden  soil.  The 
wild  Iris  is  hardly  as  beautiful  as  some  of  the  others  that  might  be 
grown,  but  the  yellow  European  Iris  has  luxuriant  foliage  and  large, 
clear  yellow  flowers,  and  deserves  wider  popularity. 

The  Japanese  Iris  (I.  Ksempferi)  and  the  Siberian  Iris  (I.  sibirica) 
thrive  very  nicely  at  the  edges  of  pools;  they  will  not  grow  with  their 
crowns  submerged,  however.  The  flower  of  the  Japanese  Iris  differs 
from  the  others  in  being  flat,  the  standards  not  being  upright.  There 
are  several  forms  of  the  flower;  some  have  six  petals  and  others,  because 
the  standards  are  much  abbreviated,  are  called  three-petaled  Iris. 
The  flowers  are  very  large.  They  enjoy  good  fertility  and  a  constant 
stirring  of  the  soil,  which  should  never  bake  over  the  roots.  The 
Japanese  Iris  likes  to  be  flooded  when  in  blopm,  but  at  no  other  time. 
They  bloom  later  than  the  other  sorts  and  varieties  can  be  selected 
which  bloom  from  mid- June  till  nearly  the  end  of  July. 

The  Siberian  Iris,  with  its  blue  or  white  flowers  and  grass-like 
foliage,  is  surely  a  beautiful  garden  subject.  It  lends  itself  to  being 
cut  also.  The  white  variety,  Snow  Queen,  with  its  golden  blotch  on 
the  falls,  is  excellent,  as  are  also  the  intense  blue  orientalis  varieties, 
^either  the  Japanese  nor  the  Siberian  Iris  is  insistent  upon  being 
planted  in  moist  soil. 

Under  "  Bulbs  "  we  have  given  a  discussion  of  the  Spanish  and 
English  Irises.  Perhaps  no  group  is  so  universally  successful  to 
grow,  requiring  so  little  care  as  does  the  German  Iris  group.  They 
are  very  hardy  and  stand  all  sorts  of  adverse  conditions,  growing  in 
the  parched  soil  under  the  eaves  of  houses,  thriving  where  children 
tramp  the  soil  to  the  hardness  of  a  cement  pavement,  blooming  under 
trees  choked  by  grass,  and  still  giving  flowers  as  pretty  as  an  orchid. 
They  should  always  be  planted  quite  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  and 
are  best  placed  in  bold  groups.  So  rapid  is  the  multiplication  that  if 
a  fine  variety  costs  a  dollar  it  usually  produces  so  rapidly  that  the 
same  plant  will  give  five  or  ten  dollars  worth  of  stock  for  another 
year.  The  dwarf  varieties  of  German  Iris  are  known  as  pumila 
hybrids.  When  the  tall  varieties  were  crossed  with  the  dwarf  varieties 
an  intermediate  group  resulted,  known  as  intermediate  or  interregna 
varieties.  The  blooms  are  large  and  most  exquisite  in  color.  The 
range  of  colors  in  German  Iris  is  extraordinary,  varying  from  pure 
white  to  deepest  yellow,  purple  and  violet  and  including  delicate 
lavender  blue  and  even  approaching  to  pink.  The  pumila  varieties 
are  the  earliest  to  bloom  in  this  group,  usually  early  May.  They  are 
followed  by  intermediate,  then  last  the  tall,  a  few  of  which  open  in 
late  May  or  early  June. 


IRISES 


87 


Typical  German  Iris  Bloom 

s,  standard,    p,  pistil;    c.  crest  of  pistil;    st.  p, 

stigmatic  pocket;    st,  stamen;    f,  fall;    t,  tube; 

sp,  spathe  valve;      o,  ovary;      r,  reticulation; 

b,  beard. 


A  discussion  of  Iris  is  not 
complete  without  a  short  con- 
sideration of  the  way  the 
German  Iris  came  about.  The 
dwarf  German  Iris  is  derived 
from  I.  pumila  and  a  number 
of  other  dwarf  species.  The 
tall  varieties  are  the  result  of 
I.  variegata,  a  species  with 
yellow  standards  and  ma- 
hogany marked  falls;  I.  pal- 
lida,  a  very  pale  blue  species 
with  the  two  spathe  valves 
(shown  in  sketch)  always  very 
papery  and  dry;  I.  germanica, 
a  deep  violet  species,  earlier 
than  the  others;  I.  florentina, 
a  pale  lavender  white;  I. 

flavescens,  a  very  good  light  yellow.  Various  combinations  of  these 
species  have  given  the  following  eight  groups  of  German  Iris:  I. 
variegata,  pallida,  florentina,  sambucina,  neglecta,  squsjens,  amcena, 
plicata.  There  are  other  bearded  species  of  Iris  worthy  of  culture, 
such  as  I.  mesopotamica,  benacensis,  cypriana,  Kochii  and  Caterina. 
It  is  interesting  to  know  that  Iris  florentina,  the  old-fashioned 
sweet,  early-blooming,  pale  lavender- white  species,  is  the  orris-root 
of  commerce  and  believed  to  be  the  original  of  the  Fleur-de-lis,  or 
French  national  floral  emblem.  The  belles  of  ancient  Greece  grew 
it  both  for  flowers  and  root,  and  the  growing  of  this  root  is  a  leading 
industry  of  northern  Italy.  The  rhizomes  are  dug  in  the  Summer 
and  peeled  to  remove  the  outer  bark.  The  separate  joints  are  laid 
aside  to  dry  until  the  end  of  two  years,  when  they  will  have  acquired 
a  delicate  fragrance  of  Violets.  The  root  pieces,  which  have  a  white 
appearance,  are  brought  to  the  market  of  perfumers  who  powder  them 
for  dentifrices  or  sachet  powders,  or  when  distilled  with  water  form  the 
oil  of  orris,  the  basis  of  many  perfumes. 

Almost  all  Irises  like  sun.  The  best  fertilizers  for  them  are  wood- 
ashes"  and  bonemeal.  The  German  Iris  likes  lime;  the  Japanese  Iris 
is  thought  to  not  like  a  calcium  soil.  Most  Irises  are  sensitive  to 
active  manure.  After  the  first  year  there  will  be  little  need  for  pro- 
tecting any  but  the  weakest  plants. 

They  are  best  transplanted  after  blooming,  when  the  leaves 
have  matured;  this  ,will  be  in  August  or  September,  not  much  later, 
for  roots  should  become  established  before  freezing.  The  Spring  is 


88  GARDEN  GUIDE 

considered  a  poor  time  to  move  them.  When  Iris  clumps  begin  to 
choke  themselves  out  by  covering  the  ground  so  that  young  shoots 
have  difficulty  hi  establishing  roots,  they  should  be  broken  up  and 
set  in  another  place.  Due  to  the  prolificacy  of  German  Iris  this  will 
be  necessary  every  third  year. 

SWEET  PEAS 
The  poet  has  a  jingle  upon  Peas.    He  says: 

"  Peas  along  the  border,  Peas  upon  the  lawn, 

Peas  against  an  eastern  wall  to  welcome  in  the  dawn. 

Peas  among  the  Roses,  Peas  behind  the  Pinks; 

Peas  to  catch  the  western  glow  when  evening  sunlight  sinks. 

Peas  upheld  with  Chestnut,  Peas  held  up  with  Ash; 

Peas  asprawl  on  Hazel  spray,  Peas  on  Larchen  brash. 

Peas  on  stiff,  unyielding ^wire,  Peas  tied  up  with  string; 

Peas  upon  the  trellis  work  where  Rambler  Roses  swing. 

Oh !  merry,  merry,  merry,  are  the  gay  Sweet  Peas; 

Plant  them  when  and  how  you  will,  it's  certain  they  will  please." 

It  would  appear  that  the  answer  to  the  question  of  where  to 
plant  Sweet  Peas  is,  "  Everywhere."  But  Sweet  Peas  should  be 
planted  on  a  well  drained  soil  only,  or  one  in  which  the  excessive  rains 
of  Spring  will  not  cause  water  to  stand  around  the  roots  an(J  start 
mildew.  They  do  not  like  excessive  shade,  for  the  plants  should  make 
a  sturdy  growth.  In  the  shade  the  growth  is  weak  and  spindly  and 
but  few  flowers  are  produced. 

Place  Peas,  then,  in  the  open,  giving  them  all  available  light  and 
air,  although  a  little  shade  from  midday  suns  of  June  and  July  is, 
of  course,  beneficial.  Hot  weather  causes  short  stems  on  Peas  and 
the  best  hay  and  grain  weather  makes  an  end  of  them. 

THE  PREPARATION  OF  THE  SOIL  is  one  of  the  most  important 
points  in  the  success  of  Sweet  Peas.  They  like  the  cool  soil  and 
attempt  to  strike  down  deeply.  Dig  a  trench  two  or  three  feet  deep, 
break  up  and  turn  over  the  subsoil.  Do  not  use  it  for  top  soil  if  it 
is  poor.  Put  in  a  liberal  amount  of  stable  manure  and  work  in  a 
heavy  dressing  of  bonemeal. »  This  preparation  should  be  made  in 
the  Fall  and  the  bed  left  all  Whiter.  When  working  over  in  the 
Spring  give  a  good,  liberal  coating  of  well  decayed  manure  or  some 
fertilizer.  If  the  soil  is  deficient  in  lime,  dust  the  surface  with -fresh 
lime  in  Fall  or  Winter,  using  it  as  soon  as  slaked. 

SOWING  SEEDS  IN  POTS.  In  order  to  gain  a  month  in  season 
Sweet  Peas  may  be  sown  in  three-inch  pots  in  February  and  placed  in  a 
coldframe.  But  they  are  generally  sown  a  month  before  wanted  for 
outdoor  planting  and  a  smaller  pot  is  used.  Four  seeds  are  sown  hi 
each  pot.  The  frame  used  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  and  dusted 


SWEET  PEAS 


Roses  on  arches  and  Sweet  Peas  on  trellises  between.     On  either  side 
are  Rose  beds  in  the  lawn.     Iris  beds  in  the  foreground 


90  GARDEN  GUIDE 

with  soot  .or  lime.  They  can  stand  quite  a  lot  of  cold,  but  do  not  have 
them  wet  at  the  same  time.  Transplant  outdoors  when  possible; 
this  is  usually  about  mid-April.  Normally,  the  seed  should  be  sown 
in  open  ground  as  early  as  March.  As  soon  as  the  soil  is  warm  enough 
the  seeds  will  germinate. 

FALL  SOWING.  For  the  Autumn  sowing  of  Sweet  Peas  a  piece 
of  soil  should  be  selected  which  will  warm  quickly  in  the  Spring. 
Spade  it  up  to  good  depth,  two  to  three  feet,  but  use  no  manure. 
Make  a  trench  two  inches  deep  and  sow  the  seed  thickly  and  cover 
with  loose  soil.  When  the  seedlings  have  germinated  and  freezing 
weather  has  begun,  cover  with  four  inches  of  coarse  litter  or  straw, 
which  must  be  removed  in  the  early  Spring  after  heavy  frosts  are  past. 
The  seed  should  be  sown  so  that  the  shoots  are  just  at  surface  of  the 
soil  when  Winter  freezes  set  in,  say,  late  in  October  or  early  in 
November,  according  to  latitude. 

SUMMER  TREATMENT.  Give  frequent  cultivation  and  when 
the  plants  are  nicely  budded  work  bonemeal  into  the  soil  along  the 
rows.  If  conditions  are  very  hot  and  dry  give  the  plants  frequent 
syringings,  which  will  keep  down  the  red  spider,  and  never  allow  aphis 
half  a  chance.  Keep  the  plants  free  from  green  fly. 

STAKING.  Many  different  methods  are  advised  for  training  the 
vines.  Perhaps  no  method  is  so  successful  as  using  brush  or  branchlets. 
Stretching  string  from  pole  to  pole  is  an  easy  way.  Such  cord  can  be 
easily  removed  when  the  Peas  are  through  blooming.  Chicken  wire 
is  rather  useful,  but  has  two  objections:  it  must  be  cleaned  each 
year,  and  it  is  thought  to  become  heated  a  little  too  much,  causing 
the  Pea  vines  to  dry  prematurely. 


A  BIRD  BATH 

in  the  garden  [in  the  form  of  a 
basin  set  upon  a  stone  pedestal  or 
column.  Some  dwarf,  neat  growing 
water  plants  may  be  kept  in  the 
basin,  such  as  Umbrella  Plant  and 
Parrot's  Feather.  A  stone  in  the 
bowl  affords  a  place  for  the  birds 
to  stand 


CHAPTER  VIII 

Annuals  and  Biennials 


ANNUALS  are  plants  the  seed  of  which  must  be  sown  each  year. 
Some  plants,  although  they  live  more  than  one  year,  are  not  at 
their  best  after  the  first  year  and  should  be  considered  as  annuals. 
The  Pansy  is  such  a  plant;  it  is  perennial,  but  is  best  when  sown  each 
year.  Annuals  are  not  permanent,  it  is  true,  but  they  fill  a  great  need 
for  profusion  of  bloom  for  garden  effect.  In  few  ways  can  a  few  cents 
be  spent  so  profitably  as  in  the  purchase  of  a  package  of  annual  seed. 
They  bloom  so  quickly  and  make  such  excellent  fillers  for  the  bare 
spots  between  our  shrubs  and  other  perennial  plants  that  they  are 
truly  indispensable.  For  cut  flowers  they  are  unexcelled.  Sorts  may 
be  easily  chosen  with  long,  strong  stems  and  excellent  keeping  qualities, 
together  with  the  daintiest  or  gayest  colors.  They  commend  them- 
selves to  planting  near  rented  houses  where  investments  for  plants 
would  otherwise  be  somewhat  wasted. 

For  pot  culture  upon  porches  and  areas  where  little  space  is  avail- 
able the  annual  fits  in  nicely.  In  window  boxes  the  dwarf,  com- 
pact plants  are  just  as  useful  as  the  tall  climbers.  The  annual  vines  are 
unrivaled  in  their  ability  to  quickly  cover  unsightly  buildings  or  rough 
ground,  as  well  as  serving  for  shade  upon  rustic  arbors  and  porches. 

In  making  few  purchases  does  one  need  to  be  as  careful  as  in  the 
buying  of  seeds.  They  should  only  be  bought  from  reliable  dealers. 
These  men  aim  to  procure  the  seeds  from  the  best  plants,  and 
those  bearing  the  finest  flowers.  The  matter  of  getting  good  seed  must 
depend  entirely  upon  our  confidence  in  the  dealer.  The  wise  gardener 
avoids  wasting  his  ground  space  by  sowing  seeds  which  have  lain 
about  grocery  stores  for  any  length  of  time.  Many  places  are  ill  fitted 
for  seed  storage;  seeds  are  resting,  living  plants,  not  pebbles^ 

SOWING.  Many  annuals,  such  as  Petunia,  Phlox,  Verbena,  orna- 
mental Tobacco,  China  Asters,  Snapdragon,  Cosmos,  Sweet  Alyssum, 
Pansy,  annual  Larkspur,  Salpiglossis,  Scarlet  Sage,  Swan  River  Daisy 
and  Torenia,  benefit  by  being  sown  indoors  in  order  to  give  them  a 
growing  start  before  placing  in  open  soil. 

March  is  the  best  time  to  sow.  This  necessitates  procuring  a  good 
loam  in  the  Autumn  and  storing  it«in  the  basement. .  The  soil  need  not 
be  rich,  but  it  should  be  loose,  which  can  be  accomplished  by  the  ad- 
dition of  well-rotted  manure,  or  if  this  is  not  available,  sifted  coal 

91 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


ANNUALS  AND  BIENNIALS  93 

ashes  or  sand  will  be  useful.  During  the  Winter  the  soil  should  not 
become  dry  in  the  basement,  but  should  be  moistened  every  month  or 
oftener,  according  to  its  condition.  It  must  not  be  kept  too  wet, 
otherwise  it  will  sour  badly. 

Seed  must  always  be  sown  thinly ;  thick  sowing  is  a  general  cause 
of  failure  with  annuals.  Some  seeds,  as  Petunia,  Verbena,  ornamental 
Tobacco,  Salpiglossis  and  Portulaca,  are  very  minute,  and  should  not 
be  covered  with  soil.  A  newspaper  and  a  pane  of  glass  placed  over  the 
pot  or  box  will  retain  the  moisture  and  keep  the  sunlight  from  the 
seed.  When  the  seed  is  not  covered,  the  soil  should  be  thoroughly 
watered  before  sowing.  Larger  seeds  are  best  sown  hi  rows,  and  should 
be  covered  with  soil  about  three  times  their  diameter.  To  keep  out 
the  light  and  prevent  the  pots  from  drying,  the  use  of  newspaper  over  the 
pots  is  excellent.  As  soon  as  the  seedlings  get  above  the  soil,  they 
should  be  given  the  best  light  conditions,  otherwise  they  will  become 
very  spindling  and  weak.  Good  light  and  rather  cool  conditions  in- 
doors, together  with  thorough  but  not  too  frequent  watering,  should 
produce  stocky  plants. 

Excepting  such  as  Mignonette,  Sweet  Sultan,  Love-in-a-Mist, 
Heliotrope,  and  the  Poppy-like  plants,  as  Eschscholtzia,  Argemone  and 
Papaver,  most  annuals  can  be  successfully  transplanted.  When 
seeds  of  these  latter  are  sown  they  are  best  placed  in  very  small  pots, 
using  only  two  or  three  seeds  in  a  pot. 

TRANSPLANTIN  G  .  Seedlings  may  be  transplanted  when  very  small ; 
in  fact,  after  the  appearance  of  several  leaves,  if  the  plants  are  becom- 
ing crowded,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  boxes  about  three  inches 
deep,  setting  them  several  inches  apart  each  way.  The  earli- 
ness  of  sowing  the  seed  will  govern  the  amount  and  need  for  trans- 
planting. Transplanting  is  beneficial  to  many  seedlings  because  it 
causes  the  root  tips  to  branch,  making  a  well  balanced  root  system. 

TIME  TO  Sow  OUT-OF-DOORS.  When  the  soil  is  warmed  a  little 
in  the  Spring  most  annuals  can  be  sown  directly  in  the  open  soil;  but 
a  few  are  tender,  that  is,  they  wilt  stand  very  little  cold  and  should 
never  be  planted  until  all  danger  of  frost  is  past.  Among  these  are: 
Amaranth,  Browallia,  Celosia,  Torenia,  California  Poppy,  Gourds, 
Butterfly  Flower.  These  are  all  tender. 

PREPARATION  OF  SOIL.  The  soil  should  not  merely  be  loosened 
by  a  rake,  but  if  good  flowers  are  wanted,  thorough  preparation  should 
be  given  and  decayed  manure  added.  After  many  of  the  annuals  have 
grown  two  or  three  leaves  tall,  they  will  benefit  by  being  pinched  back; 
in  other  words,  the  main  shoot  should  be  cut  out.  This  will  cause  the 
plants  to  become  branchy  and  bear  three  times  as  many  flowers.  Es- 
pecially successful  is  pinching  such  plants  as  Stock,  Nemophila,  Butter- 


94  GARDEN  GUIDE 

fly  Flower,  Petunia,  Baby's  Breath,  annual  Chrysanthemums,  Clarkia, 
Cosmos,  Godetia,  Salpiglossis,  Swan  River  Daisy  and  Calliopsis. 

KEEPING  SEED  PODS  REMOVED.  Annuals  soon  accomplish  their 
growth  and  hastily  decline  if  their  seed  pods  are  not  carefully  removed. 
Many  of  them  may  continue  to  bloom  throughout  the  Summer  if  care- 
ful attention  is  given  this  detail. 

VINES.  The  annual  vines  form  an  important  garden  adjunct. 
The  most  important  plant  in  this  class  is  the  Sweet  Pea,  and,  per- 
haps, the  next  in  value  is  the  Nasturtium,  which  not  only  has  excellent 
foliage,  but  at  the  same  time  is  without  a  competitor  for  profusion 
and  elegance  of  bloom.  The  Morning  Glory  (see  p.  101)  would 
be  more  valued  but  for  the  fact  that  inferior  varieties  are  too 
often  grown.  Excellent  giant  forms,  clear  blue  in  color,  are 
on  the  markets,  which  for  a  morning  effect  upon  the  garden  fence 
are  very  attractive.  The  Cobaea  is  really  a  tender  perennial,  but 
does  best  sown  in  pots  and  started  indoors  each  year.  The  seeds  are 
flat  and  should  be  placed  edgewise.  The  flowers  are  greenish  purple 
and  followed  by  attractive  pods.  The  plants  make  a  phenomenal 
growth.  Another  vine  with  inflated  pods  is  the  Balloon  Vine.  Al- 
though the  flowers  are  inconspicuous,  the  balloons  are  borne  very 
freely.  The  Cypress  Vine  and  the  Cardinal  Climber  both  possess  deep 
red  flowers  and  fine  foliage.  The  seeds  of  both  are  rather  difficult  to 
start,  but  if  those  of  the  Cypress  Vine  are  scalded  there  should  be  little 
difficulty.  The  Japanese  Hop,  Scarlet  Bean  and  Gourds  should  not  be 
forgotten.  If  one  prefers  something  rather  extraordinary  and  unique, 
the  Canary  Bird  Vine  (Tropaeolum  peregrinum)  with  its  peculiar 
yellow  fringed  flowers  and  delicate  foliage,  should  be  grown. 

COMBINATIONS  OF  ANNUALS.  It  is  hardly  ever  advisable  to  buy 
mixed  colors  of  flowers;  it  is  much  better  to  buy  packages  of  good 
separate  colors  and  mix  them.  Nothing  is  prettier  than  huge  masses 
of  one  color.  Bicolor  or  variegated  flowers  are  to  be  avoided,  because 
they  often  give  a  dull  appearance  as  seen  in  beds. 

Let  us  make  a  few  recommendations  for  combinations  of  annuals 
or  ways  in  which  they  give  the  best  effects: 

In  making  beds  for  annuals  they  should  not  be  too  wide;  if  against 
a  fence,  four  or  five  feet,  and  if  in  the  open,  six  or  seven  feet,  is  sufficient; 
otherwise,  they  cannot  be  handled  easily  either  for  picking  the  flowers 
or  for  cultivating  and  weeding.  Few  annuals  can  be  sown  so  that  they 
are  exactly  the  proper  distance  apart  when  they  bloom.  They  must, 
therefore,  be  thinned.  According  to  the  variety  they  all  need  from  six 
to  eighteen  inches  between  plants.lj  Poppy  beds  are  always  too  thickly 
planted,  for  Poppy  seed  is  very  fine^and  difficult  to  sow  properly.  They 
must  be  thinned  if  the  Poppies  are  to  attain  their  proper  development. 


ANNUALS  AND  BIENNIALS 


95 


A  bed  of  blue  Bachelor's  Buttons  can  be  nicely  edged  with  Sweet 
Alyssum  or  Candytuft,  both  of  the  latter  being  white.  The  Bachelor's  But- 
tons will  furnish  a  constant  supply  of  cut  flowers. 

Snapdragon,  of  which  a  delicate  pink  variety,  perhaps,  is  chosen,  will 
be  excellent  combined  with  Dusty  Miller. 

Another  bed  will  be  showy,  composed  of  California  Poppies  planted  in 
front  of  the  taller  pot  Marigolds.  This  will  be  in  tones  of  orange-yellow. 

Entire  beds,  perhaps  five  by  ten  feet,  of  Verbenas,  planted  12  inches 
apart  each  way,  will  prove  very  effective. 


1  i  ' 


Foxgloves  are  hardy  biennials ;  they  seed  and  reproduce  themselves  freely 

Grow  a  fine  lot  of  young  Drummondi  Phlox  plants,  a  white  variety, 
and  after  filling  a  bed  with  them  placed  eight  inches  apart,  plant  bulbs  of 
the  pink  variety  America  Gladiolus  between  the  plants. 

Into  your  bed  of  Pansies  transplant  a  few  of  the  dainty  blue  Browalh'a 
demissa;  this  will  cast  a  very  light  and  airy  effect  over  the  whole  bed. 

On  some  narrow  strip,  where  there  is  little  room,  try  Godetia  Rosa- 
mond with  its  satiny  pink  flowers  by  itself.  You  will  be  rewarded  by  a 
very  pretty  display. 

A  huge  bed  of  Nicotiana  sylvestris,  the  ornamental  Tobacco,  near  a 
porch  where  you  can  get  the  great  fragrance  in  the  evening,  is  very  satis- 
factory. The  Nicotiana  self  sows  and  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  these  in 
check. 


96  GARDEN  GUIDE 

In  a  hot,  sunbeaten,  dry  place,  sow  the  Portulaca  or  Sunplant.  The 
metallic  seeds  self  sow  and  the  plant  will  come  up  year  after  year.  This  is 
the  old-fashioned  "Seven  Sisters"  plant  which  some  persons  fancy  bears 
seven  colored  blooms  on  one  plant. 

In  some  pots,  to  be  placed  on  posts  or  on  a  wall,  plant  a  few  of  the 
trailing  Lobelias  (Lobelia  erinus)  or  a  few  Nasturtiums. 

In  a  corner  where  you  want  something  out  of  the  ordinary,  plant  a 
few  seeds  of  the  Giant  Spider  plant  (Cleome).  The  flowers  are  rosy  crim- 
son, and  possess  long  filaments  and  pistils  followed  by  long,  slender  seed 
pods.  They  are  strong,  attractive,  but  a  trifle  weedy. 

Edge  a  bed  of  Gannas  or  other  tall  plants  with  Fountain  Grass  (Penni- 
setum). 

To  combine  with  bouquets,  grow  a  little  clump  of  Cloud  Grass  (Agros- 
tis  nebulosa). 

For  the  Sweet  Pea*  bouquets  do  not  neglect  planting  some  Baby's 
Breath  (Gypsophila  elegans).  This  will  look  well  grown  in  a  bed  with  an- 
nual Larkspurs  or  with  Stocks.  Baby's  Breath  must  be  planted  several 
times  during  the  season  if  a  continuous  supply  is  needed. 

Some  persons  admire  small  hedges  of  Summer  Cypress,  or  Kochia, 
but  this  plant  turns  a  very  bad  bluish-crimson  color  in  Autumn — a  color 
which  harmonizes  with  nothing. 

When  the  season  does  not  prove  too  moist,  or  when  planted  upon 
sandy  soils,  the  dwarf  or  cupid  Sweet  Peas  are  excellent.  They  bear  rather 
long  stems  and  very  good  flowers. 

No  annual  flower  blooms  for  so  long  a  time  as  the  Petunia.  If  the 
colors  can  be  selected  before  setting  the  plants  into  the  bed,  the  results  will 
be  better.  It  will  be  unnecessary  to  combine  them  with  anything  else,  as  they 
are  all-sufficient,  and  are  as  useful  for  beds  two  feet  square  as  for  huge 
borders  a  hundred  feet  long  and  four  wide. 

Where  a  dainty  blue  edging  plant  is  wanted,  use  Swan  River  Daisy, 
(Brachycome),  placing  the  plants  about  six  inches  apart. 

If  you  must  neglect  your  garden,  but  want  a  good  show  of  color,  try 
huge  beds  of  Zinnias  or  Marigolds. 

If  you  wonder  what  to  use  for  edging  any  bed,  decide  to  use  Sweet 
Alyssum;  it  is  a  most  adaptable  border  plant.  When  it  appears  to  be  nearly 
through  blooming,  cut  it  back  and  it  will  start  up  again. 

It  is  only  proper  to  take  away  a  little  of  the  enthusiasm  for 
annuals,  by  reading  from  "  The  Amateur's  Garden,"  a  delightful  book 
by  Geo.  W.  Cable.  He  quotes  a  man  as  saying:  "  I  have  seen  a 
house,  whose  mistress  was  too  exclusively  fond  of  annuals,  stand 
waiting  for  its  shoes  and  stockings  from  October  clear  round  to  August, 
and  then  barefooted  again  in  October.  In  such  gardening  there  is  too 
much  love's  labor  lost.  If  one's  grounds  are  so  small  that  there  is  no 
better  place  for  the  annuals  they  can  be  planted  against  the  shrubs, 
as  the  shrubs  are  planted  against  the  building  or  fence.  At  any  rate, 
they  should  never  be  bedded  in  the  midst  of  a  lawn." 

EVERLASTING   FLOWERS 

It  is  always  interesting  to  grow  a  few  everlasting  or  "straw"  flowers. 
If  they  are  picked  in  their  proper  stages,  the  leaves  removed  and  the 


ANNUALS  AND  BIENNIALS  97 

blooms  hung  upside  down  to  dry,  they  will  present  a  pretty  appearance 

all  Winter.    The  principal  annual  specimens  are: 

HELICHRYSUM  BRACTEATUM  (Straw  Flower).  One  of  the  largest  everlasting 
flowers.  There  are  many  shades  of  yellow  and  red.  They  grow  two 
to  three  feet  tall  and  need  to  be  planted  one  foot  apart  if  they  are  to 
develop  properly.  They  should  be  picked  before  they  are  fully  open. 

HELIPTERUM  ROSEUM.  Bears  dainty  white  and  rosy  pink  flowers.  They 
should  be  cut  when  quite  in  bud;  they  open  a  little  after  being  picked, 
otherwise  the  centers  are  visible  and  being  brown  gives  a  shabby 
appearance  to  the  otherwise  attractive  flower.  It  is  pretty  for  the 
border,  aside  from  its  being  good  for  the  Winter  bouquet. 

HELIPTERUM  MANGLESII  (Bhodanthe)  (Swan  River  Everlasting).  The 
flowers  are  pink  and  white;  the  stems  are  very  graceful. 

HELIPTERUM  HUMBOLDTIANUM.  Bears  a  yellow  flower,  smaller  than 
others  but  numerous. 

GOMPHRENA  GLOBOSA  (Globe  Amaranth).  The  straw-like  heads  resemble 
Clover.  The  two  colors  are  a  crimson  and  a  rather  muddy  white. 

XERANTHEMUM  ANNUUM  (Everlasting  or  Immortelle).  Bears  rose,  purple, 
and  white  flowers.  As  a  garden  subject  they  retain  their  bloom  from 
early  Summer  till  frost. 

GATANANCHE  C^RULEA.  Blue  and  yellow  varieties  are  available.  Some- 
what resembles  Bachelor's  Buttons. 

USEFUL  FOR  Cur  FLOWERS 

The  flowering  annuals  are  useful  for  cutting  because  they  have 
long  stems,  good  keeping  qualities  or  excellent  colors.  They  commend 
themselves  admirably  for  arrangements  in  the  low  bowls  which  are 
beginning  to  be  used  and  are  of  such  great  value  for  a  proper  loose 
display  of  flowers. 

ACROGLINIUM  (See  Helipterum  roseum  in  list  of  Everlasting  Flowers). 
AFRICAN  DAISY  (See  Arctotis). 
ANTIRRHINUM"  (Snapdragon).      This  is  gaining  greatly   in  its  deserved 

popularity.     Almost  all  the  colors  are  good. 
ARCTOTIS  GRANDIS  (African  Daisy).       This  is  a  very  handsome  Daisy-like 

annual,  the  flowers  of  which  are  a  bluish  white,  the  under  surface  being 

rather  bluish  gray.     The  buds  open  nicely  after  the  flowers  are  cut. 
AMETHYST  (See  Browallia). 
ANNUAL  LARKSPUR  appears  in  superb  pinks,  blues,  lavenders  and  has  dainty 

foliage  and  good  keeping  qualities. 
BABY'S  BREATH  (See  Gypsophila). 
BACHELOR'S  BUTTON  (See  Centaurea). 
BLANKET  FLOWER  (See  Gaillardia). 
BROWALLIA  DEMISSA  (Amethyst).     A  very  graceful  little  blue  or  white 

annual  which  is  prettily  used  in  bouquets. 
BUTTERFLY  FLOWER  (See  Schizanthus). 
CALENDULA  OFFICINALIS  (Pot  Marigold).     Bear  strong,  golden  orange  and 

lemon  colored  flowers.    They  will  bloom  for  a  long  season  if  the  seed 

pods  are  kept  off. 
CANDYTUFT.    The  varieties  are  pure  taffy  white  as  well  as  lavender  and 

crimson.     They  are  very  useful  for  all  sorts  of  cut  flower  purposes. 


98 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


CASTOR  OIL  BEAN  (See  Ricinus,  under  Foliage  Annuals,  p.  100). 

GENTAUREA  (See  Senecio). 

GENTAUREA  GYANEA  (Bachelor's  Button).  Furnishes  some  of  finest  blues. 
Is  an  excellent  keeper  when  cut. 

CENTAUREA  IMPERIALIS  and  AMERICANA  (Sweet  Sultan).  Dainty  rose, 
light  lavender  and  white  thistle-like  flowers;  long  stems;  excellent  for 
vases  and  baskets.  G.  maritima  is  often  called  Dusty  Miller. 

CHINA  ASTER.    This  is  perhaps  the  very  best  annual  for  cutting. 


Delphiniums  from  seed 

COREOPSIS  TINCTORIA,  DRUMMONDI  (Coreopsis,  or  Calliopsis).  Appears 
hi  excellent  golden  and  maroon  color  combinations.  The  stems  are 
long  and  wiry. 

CORN,  VARIEGATED  (See  Zea,  under  list  of  Foliage  Annuals). 

COSMOS.  One  of  best  tall  annuals,  and  one  of  the  latest  to  bloom,  is  Cos- 
mos. Procure  the  earliest  varieties  for  Northern  planting. 

DUSTY  MILLER  (See  Senecio  and  Gentaurea). 

EVERLASTING  (Applied  to  Helichrysum,  Helipterum,  Xeranthemum  and 
some  others). 

FORGETMENOT.  This  dainty  blue  flower  has  a  greater  hold  upon  our 
sentimental  admiration  than  almost  any  flower  except  the  Rose. 

FOUNTAIN  GRASS  (See  Pennisetum). 

GAILLARDIA  (Blanket  Flower).  Resplendent  in  shades  of  orange  and 
scarlet. 


ANNUALS  AND  BIENNIALS  99 

GLOBE  AMARANTH  (See  Gomphrena,  under  list  of  Everlasting  Flowers). 
GODETIA.    Excellent  satiny  petals  and  some  very  good  colors  appear. 
GYPSOPHILA  (Baby's  Breath).    Unexcelled  for  bouquets.    The  fine,  misty, 

white  flowers  lend  to  any  decoration  a  grace  which  cannot  be  duplicated 

by  any  other  annual. 

IMMORTELLE  (See  Xeranthemum,  under  list  of  Everlasting  Flowers). 
LOVE-IN-A-MIST  (See  Nigella). 
LOVE-LIES-BLEEDING  (See  Amaranthus). 
LUPINES.     Free  flowering.     There    are    excellent    pink,    blue    and  light 

yellow  varieties. 

MARIGOLD,  African.    This  flower  is  rather  coarse,  but  always  thrifty. 
MARIGOLD,  Pot.     (See  Calendula). 
MIGNONETTE  is  indispensable  because  of  its  supreme  fragrance.    The  less 

beautiful  kinds  are  apt  to  be  the  most  fragrant. 
NASTURTIUM.    For  brilliancy  of  color,  prolificacy  of  bloom  and  novelty  of 

form,  few  flowers  can  rival  the  Nasturtium. 
NIGELLA  DAMASCENA  (Love-in-a-Mist).    Excellent  fine  foliage  and  pretty 

blue  flowers. 
PANSY.    It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  Pansy  seed  only  grows  during  the 

cool,  early  days  of  Spring  or  Fall.    It  must  be  planted  accordingly. 
PAPAVER  RILEAS  (Shirley  Poppies) .    With  their  silky  petalage  and  good 

colors,  these  make  good  cut  flowers  if  picked  when  in  bud. 
PHLOX  DRUMMONDI  (Phlox,  Drummond's).    The  real,  brilliant,  clear  colors 

of  this  annual  Phlox  are  admirable  for  small  vases. 
PoiNSETTiA  HETEROPHYLLA,  an  annual  slightly  resembling  the  Christmas 

Poinsettia. 

POPPIES,  SHIRLEY  (See  Papaver  Rhaeas). 

RHODANTHE  (See  Helipterum  Manglesii,  under  list  of  Everlasting  Flowers). 
RIBBON  GRASS  (See  Phalaris,  under  Foliage  Annuals). 
SCABIOSA  (Scabious).    Excellent  long  stems — good  colors  lend  themselves 

to  pretty  vase  decorations. 
SCABIOUS  (See  Scabiosa). 
SCHIZANTHUS  (Butterfly  Flower).    One  of  the  fairy-looking  flowers.    Give 

a  little  shade  in  the  garden. 
SENECIO  CINERARIA,  var.  candidissimus,  is  generally  known   as  Dusty 

Miller. 

SNAPDRAGON  (See  Antirrhinum). 

SQUIRREL'S  TAIL  GRASS  (See  Hordeum,  under  list  of  Foliage  Annuals). 
SUMMER  CYPRESS  (See  Kochia). 

STRAW  FLOWER  (See  Helichrysum,  under  list  of  Everlasting  Flowers). 
SWEET  PEAS.    An  ideal  annual;  see  special  article,  page  88. 
SWEET  SULTAN  (See  Centaurea  imperialis). 
TAGETES  (See  Gamolepis). 

TAR  WEED  (See  Madia  elegans,  under  list  of  Lesser-known  Annuals). 
WISHBONE  FLOWER  (See  Torenia). 
YOUTH  AND  OLD  AGE  (See  Zinnia). 
ZINNIA  (Youth  and  Old  Age).    A  universally  admired  flower  because  of  its 

rich  appearance  and  ease  of  culture. 

LESSER  KNOWN  ANNUALS 

For  those  who  have  tried  the  commonest  annuals,  a  few  others  of 
interest  should  be  mentioned.    Each  year  the  catalogues  list  a  new 


100  GARDEN  GUIDE 

introduction  from  other  countries  or  a  unique  series  of  hybrids.  These 
novelties  are  sometimes  excellent,  but  being  expensive  and  of  doubtful 
value  for  the  changed  climates  and  soils,  they  should  be  bought 
only  as  experiments  and  not  planted  directly  into  beds  in  which  a 
good  show  must  be  depended  upon. 

The  plants  in  the  following  list  are  not  especially  new,  but  are 
rarely  seen  in  our  gardens,  although  they  have  a  value: 
ALONSOA  ACUTIFOLIA.     Attractive  coral  colored  flower;  compact  plants. 
ANCHUSA  CAPENSIS  (Cape  Alkanet).     Very  pretty,  minute  blue  flowers, 

but  tend  to  go  to  seed  rapidly. 
ARGEMONE    GRANDIFLORA    (Mexican    Prickly   Poppy).      Foliage    spiny; 

flowers  yellow. 

GACALIA  COCCINEA  (See  Emilia). 
GERINTHE  RETORTA.    A  unique  annual  bearing  spotted  leaves  and  yellow 

tubular  inverted  flowers,  tipped  with  purple. 

DIASCIA  BARBERS.    Bears  a  rose  or  orange  colored  spurred  flower. 
EMILIA  FLAMMEA  (Gacalia  coccinea)  (Tassel  Flower).    An  intense  scarlet. 

Should  be  planted  at  least  four  inches  apart.     Self  sows. 
ERYSIMUM   PEROFSKIANUM.     One   of  deepest   orange   colored   annuals. 

Earliest  culture. 

GILIA  CAPITATA.    The  light  drab  flowers  are  borne  in  miniature  heads. 
LAYIA  ELEGANS.      Pretty  dwarf  yellow  annuals,  with  flowers  about  an 

inch  in  diameter. 
MADIA  ELEGANS  (Tarweed).    Very  distinct  yellow  flowers  and  glandular 

heavily  scented  foliage. 
MENTZELIA  LINDLEYI  (Bartonia  aurea).     Yellow  flowers.     Plant  where 

they  are  to  grow.    Fragrant  in  evening. 
NEMOPHILA  INSIGNIS.    Excellent  pure  deep  blue. 
PHACELIA  c AMP ANUL ARIA.    Bears  blue  flowers  resembling  the  Canterbury 

BeUs. 
POINSETTIA  HETEROPHYLLA  or  PAINTED  LEAF.     Leaves  are  dark  green, 

except  the  upper,  which  are  bright  red  at  the  base. 
SAL  VIA  FARINACEA.    Very  pretty  foliage  and  almost  white  flowers. 
SANVITALIA  PROGUMBENS.     A  dwarf,  compact  annual,  useful  for  edging; 

very  prolific  of  blooms. 
TORENIA  FOURNIERI  (Wishbone  Flower).     A  very  pretty  blue  or  white, 

yellow  spotted  flower. 

ANNUALS  FOR  EDGING  BEDS  OF  OTHER  PLANTS 

AGERATUM  DWARF  SNAPDRAGON  PETUNIA 

ANNUAL  PHLOX  FRENCH  MARIGOLD  PORTULAGA 

CALIFORNIA  POPPY  LOBELIA  (Lobelia  eri-  SANVITALIA 

BABY'S -BREATH  nus)  SCARLET  PHLOX 

GALLIOPSIS  (Dwarf)  MADAGASCAR       PERI-  SWAN  RIVER  DAISY 

CANDYTUFT  WINKLE    (Vinca    ro-  SWEET  ALYSSUM 

DWARF  MARIGOLD  sea)  VERBENA 

(Tagetes     signata  NASTURTIUM      TOM 

primula)  THUMB 

FOLIAGE  ANNUALS 

Ricmus  COMMUNIS  (Castor  Oil  Bean).    One  of  the  tallest,  most  rampant 
growing  annuals. 


CHAPTER  IX 

Bulbs  and  Tuberous-Rooted  Plants 


THE  growing  of  bulbs  is  real  fun.    They  are  nearly  mature  plants 
all  grown  when  we  buy  them;  many  of  them  even  have  stored 
in  them  the  food  for  the  leaves,  flowers  and  roots.    All  we  need 
to  do  is  to  place  them  under  some  favorable  conditions  for  growth; 
then  they  send  out  their  roots  and  by  merely  absorbing  water  produce 
their  blooms.    They  are  useful  for  the  woods,  the  lawn,  the  border, 
the  water  garden,  the  rockery  and  the  window  in  Winter;  in  fact, 
they  have  a  most  unusual  adaptability. 

Many  readers  will  never  try  a  single  new  bulb  nor  even  read  about 
any  plant  which  is  strange  to  them.  They  will  never  try  an  attrac- 
tive clump  of  Eranthis  hyemalis,  the  Winter  Aconite,  that  very 
bright,  cheery  yellow  flower  of  February  or  March;  nor  would  they 
know  of  the  striped  Scilla,  the  Puschkinia  libanotica,  a  dainty  blue 
and  white  flower,  which  is  of  value  but  little  known.  Our  sug- 
gestion is*  to  try  a  few  of  the  bulbs  in  the  list  which  follows.  They 
have  been  chosen  because  they  are  really  good. 

PREPARATION  OF  BEDS  FOR  BULBS.  Bulbs  may  be  grown  on  a 
great  range  of  soils.  They  succeed  especially  well  on  the  sandier 
loams,  but  will  even  grow  on  nearly  pure  sand  or  heavy  clay.  The 
heavy  clay  soils  are  easily  loosened  by  the  addition  of  sand  or  coal 
ashes.  Manure  if  used  at  all  must  be  so  thoroughly  incorporated 
with  the  soil  that  it  is  impossible  for  any  of  it  to  be  in  contact  with 
the  roots,  or  bulbs,  both  of  which  appear  to  be  very  sensitive  to  manure. 
Bonemeal,  spread  over  the  soil  at  planting,  is  excellent.  Leafmold 
is  ideal  for  mixing  with  the  soil  if  it  is  obtainable. 

TIME  OF  PLANTING.  Some  bulbs  do  not  stand  the  cold;  they 
are  planted  in  Spring  and  must  be  dug  before  Whiter  each  year. 
Examples  of  such  bulbs  are:  Gladiolus,  Summer  Hyacinth  (Galtonia 
candicans),  Montbretia,  Tigridia,  Tuberose,  Zephyranthes,  tuberous 
Begonia,  Canna,  Dahlia.  Most  other  bulbs  should  be  planted  in 
the  Autumn.  It  is  best  to  plant  them  as  soon  as  they  can  be  obtained 
from  the  dealer.  If  they  remain  out  of  the  soil  too  long  much  of 
the  nourishment  is  evaporated.  Especially  susceptible  to  deteriora- 
tion due  to  deferred  planting  are  Crocus,  Lilies,  Snowdrops  and  Fritil- 
laria.  This  will  bring  the  greater  share  of  bulb  planting  in  October. 

„  PLANTING  BULBS,    The  rule  for  depth  of  planting  is  that  they 

105 


106  GARDEN  GUIDE 

should  be  planted  twice  their  diameter  deep  in  the  soil.  This  does 
not  always  apply,  for  it  is  usually  better  to  get  them  a  little  deeper. 
The  useful  chart  or  diagram  on  page  111  shows  the  depth  to  plant. 
It  is  advisable  in  planting  choice  sorts  to  set  them  on  a  layer  of  one 
or  two  inches  of  sand.  This  will  insure  good  drainage  and  keep  bulbs 
from  decaying. 

NATURALIZING  BULBS.  For  parks,  groves,  meadows  and  wild 
outlying  grounds  beyond  the  closely  clipped  lawn,  a  very  pleasing  style 
of  naturalizing  bulbous  plants  is  coining  much  in  vogue.  Such  bulbs 
should  be  used  as  can  be  planted  in  quantity,  twenty-five  to  a  hundred 
or  more  of  a  kind  in  a  patch,  and  only  sorts  should  be  used  as  are 
hardy  and  will  flower  and  thrive  and  increase  with  neglect;  fortunately, 
in  bulbous  plants  there  are  many  that  succeed  even  better  in  such  rough 
places  than  in  the  prim  garden;  among  them  we  will  mention  hardy 
Anemones,  Crocus,  Chionodoxas,  Gamassias,  Gonvallarias,  Daffodils, 
Dicentras,  Erythroniums,  Funkias,  Liliums,  Narcissi,  Scillas,  Snow- 
drops, Trilliums,  and  some  of  the  late-flowering  Tulips.  The  bulbs 
may  be  dibbled  in  when  the  ground  is  moist  and  soft  during  the  Fall 
rains,  but  it  is  better  to  cut  and  turn  back  the  sod  here  and  there, 
place  the  bulbs  under  and  press  the  sod  back  again. 

CULTURE  DURING  THE  SEASON.  When  the  bulbs  are  in  bud  a 
little  liquid  manure  is  very  beneficial,  resulting  in  a  larger  sized  bloom. 
After  blooming,  the  leaves  must  mature  if  the  bulbs  are  to  be  depended 
upon  for  bloom  another  year.  If  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  remove 
the  tops  before  they  are  brown  the  bulbs  should  be  dug  and  heeled 
hi  or  replanted  in  an  out-of-the-way  spot.  They  can  remain  here  till 
the  Fall  planting  time. 

MULCHING  AFTER  PLANTING.  When  cold  weather  has  set  in  and 
there  is  a  crust  frozen  over  the  bed,  a  mulch  of  leaves,  straw  or  like 
material  should  be  used  to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  inches.  It 
serves  to  protect  from  the  destructive  alternate  freezing  and  thawing. 
(See  discussion  of  Winter  Protection  on  pages  197  to  199.) 

CAMASSIA  ESCULENTA  (Indian  Quamash).  This  is  a  very  dainty  blue- 
flowering  bulb,  perfectly  hardy.  It  blooms  in  the  latter  part  of 
Spring  and  makes  a  good  border  subject.  Plant  the  bulbs  about  three 
inches  deep  where  they  may  have  abundant  moisture. 

CHIONODOXA  (Glory  of  the  Snow).  Species:  Luciliae,  light  blue,  white 
center;  sardensis,  dark  blue.  The  Chionodoxas  are  very  closely 
allied  to  the  Scillas  and  might  easily  be  confused  with  them.  They 
are  early  flowering,  March  or  April,  and  are  very  effective  when  planted 
in  huge  clumps  in  the  border.  For  a  small  bulb  they  may  be  planted 
quite  deeply — perhaps  four  to  five  inches  is  not  too  deep.  They  should 
be  replanted  every  third  year,  else  they  run  out. 

CROCUS.  Species:  vernus  and  Susianus.  The  Crocus  is  as  universally 
admired  as  any  bulbous  plant  because  it  can  be  planted  in  great  pro- 


BULBOUS  PLANTS 


107 


fusion  without  much  expense.  The  varieties  are  so  bright  and  cheer- 
ful that  they  are  excellent  planted  either  in  lawns,  in  the  herbaceous 
border  or  under  trees.  Especially  attractive  are  bold  clumps  of  one 
variety  near  evergreens  when  they  are  branched  to  the  soil.  Crocuses 
must  be  planted  in  an  open  place  in  order  to  have  them  flower.  New 
bulbs  are  produced  above  the  old  ones  each  year  and  the  plant  becomes 
higher  and  higher  in  the  soil;  they  should  thus  be  transplanted  every 
third  year.  Good  varieties  are:  King  of  Whites,  white;  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  white,  reticulated  lavender;  Albion,  purple;  Cloth  of  Gold, 
yellow. 

GROWN  IMPERIAL.     (See  Fritillaria  imperialis.) 

ERANTHIS  HYEMALIS  (Winter  Aconite).    This  yields  very  cheerful  yellow, 


Even  the  small  backyard  gardens  can  have  a  delightful  display  of  choice 
Tulips,  Narcissi  and   other  bulbs.      You   have  only    to  buy   them  and 
•  plant  them 

star-shaped  flowers  and  is  very  hardy,  liking  best  to  be  planted  in 
partial  shade.  It  blooms  as  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground, 
whether  it  is  February  or  April.  Plant  the  small  bulbs  in  clumps, 
otherwise  they  do  not  make  a  proper  showing. 

EREMURUS  (The  King's  Spear).  Species:  robustus  and  himalaicus.  This 
is  a  very  stately  subject  for  the  garden.  The  spikes  are  frequently  six 
to  eight  feet  tall  and  are  covered  with  white,  pink  or  yellowish  flowers, 
which  continue  to  open  for  nearly  a  month.  For  some  reason  they 
are  difficult  to  grow.  Certain  of  the  plants  rapidly  multiply  and 
bloom,  while  others  die  out  entirely.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted 
rather  shallow,  in  a  fairly  rich  but  very  well  drained  soil.  These 
plants  are  native  to  desert  spots  of  Western  and  Central  Asia.  The 
matter  of  Winter  protection  is  important,  for  the  plants  should  *be 


108  GARDEN  GUIDE 

covered  with  leaves  during  the  Winter  and 
left  till  quite  late,  otherwise  the  young 
shoots  will  often  be  injured.  The  roots  are 
quite  fleshy  and  spread  out  in  several  direc- 
tions; they  should  be  planted  as  soon  as 
received  in  November. 

FRITILLARIA  IMPERIALIS  (Crown  Imperial).  The 
Grown  Imperial,  which  was  such  a  familiar 
feature  of  the  gardens  of  our  grandfathers' 
time,  has  been  very  much  neglected  of  late. 
It  is  so  stately  that  this  is  extremely  strange. 
In  the  Spring,  when  the  bulbs  start  into 
This  represents  a  typical  growth,  the  stem  elongates  very  rapidly 

flower  of  a  single  Daffodil  until  finally  it    is    surmounted  by  a  crown 

Son^ih'Th^^Jontu6?!          -     °f  fl™in?  bells  ™d  a    tuft  °.f  ^68.      ^ 

much    more    resembles  are  very  interesting  as  seen  in  the  distance, 

the  Paperwhite,   except  but  even  more  so  when  examined  carefully 

eSft£?C»  sPut  ctee  at  hand.    The  bulb  seems  very  suscep- 

in  themselves  tible  to  any  sort  of  injury  and  should  not  be 

kept  out  of  the  soil  for  any  length  of  time. 

They  should  be  planted  about  four  or  five  inches  deep  and  on  their  sides, 
because  they  often  decay  easily.  The  bulbs  should  be  "set  on  several 
inches  of  sand.  They  enjoy  a  rather  rich  soil  and  when  once  established 
grow  very  easily.  If  the  flower  stem  is  a  trifle  weak  give  a  little  staking 
of  some  sort.  Single  and  double,  orange,  scarlet  and  yellow  varieties 
can  be  had. 

One  fact,  before  leaving  the  Grown  Imperials:  They  are  often 
called  Skunk  Lilies.  The  reason  is  easily  guessed  if  one  inhales  the 
odor  of  the  flowers  or  bulbs.  This  is  hardly  objectionable,  however, 
if  one  does  not  get  too  close  to  the  plants. 

GALANTHUS  (Snowdrop).  Species:  nivalis  and  Elwesii.  Not  that  the 
Snow  drop  is  really  pretty,  but  because  it  is  the  first  flower  of  Spring 
to'  bloom,  we  admire  the  little  white  inverted  bells  as  they  peep  through 
the  snow.  We  plant  it  usually  in  huge  clumps,  for  the  individual 
flowers  or  plants  are  too  tiny  for  a  show.  These  clumps  increase  very 
rapidly.  If  planted  in  different  exposures  an  excellent  succession  of 
bloom  is  afforded. 

GALTONIA  CANDICANS  (Summer  Hyacinth).  Here  is  a  bold,  stately,  bulbous 
plant  which  is  very  admirably  used  in  the  back  line  of  a  border.  The 
tall  spikes  of  inverted  white  bells  give  a  very  pleasing  effect,  and  seem 
to  contrast  most  exquisitely  with  many  of  the  medium  tall  growing 
perennials,  such  as  Monarda  and  Coreopsis,  or  with  annuals  such  as 
Bachelor's  Buttons  and  Snapdragons.  The  bulbs  are  not  strictly  hardy 
and  must  be  dug  each  Autumn  and  planted  the  following  Spring. 
Placing  the  bulbs  about  five  inches  deep  serves  to  give  the  tall  stems 
the  proper  support.  It  is  frequently  noted  that  the  bulbs  are  not  sure 
blooming,  year  after  year.  After  blooming  one  year  they  frequently 
rest  a  year  before  blooming  again.  It  is  perhaps  advisable  to  buy  a 
new  stock  each  year. 
GLORY  OF  THE  SNOW.  (See  Chionodoxa.) 

HYACINTHUS  ORIENT ALIS  (Hyacinth).  For  garden  culture  many  persons 
feel  that  the  Hyacinth  is  a  trifle  stiff  and  formal,  but  there  is  a'group 
known  as  miniatures,  which  are  useful.  They  are  cheaper  and  graded 


BULBOUS  PLANTS 


109 


from  the  larger  size  bulbs.  The  spikes  of  the  miniatures  are  graceful 
and  produce  a  very  pretty,  loosely  arranged  spike  of  bloom.  They  are 
adapted  to  informal  planting  in  the  border  and  are  useful  for  cutting. 
The  larger  varieties  are  known  as  Dutch  Hyacinths  and  are  adapted 
for  more  regular  and  formal  planting.  The  Hyacinth  appreciates  a 
lighter  soil  than  most  bulbs,  and  it  is  advised  to  set  the  bulbs  on  a  thin 
layer  of  sand.  They,  of  all  the  bulbs,  need  protection  in  Winter. 

HYACINTH.     (See  Hyacinthus  orientalis.) 

INDIAN  QUAMASH.     (See  Gamassia  esculenta.) 

IRIS  XIPHIOIDES  and  XIPHIUM  (English  and  Spanish  Iris).  Unlike  the 
German  and  Siberian,  this  class  of  Iris  is  bulbous.  The  bulbs  are 
cheap,  and  yet  so  few  of  this  class  of  Iris  are  planted  that  we  wish  to 
commend  this  excellent  group.  Plant  them  in  good,  friable,  well 
drained  soil  the  latter  part  of  September.  They  will  bloom  the  next 
Spring  in  May.  The  Spanish  Iris  will  start  into  growth  immediately 
upon  being  planted.  The  English  will  wait  till  Spring  before  sprouting. 
The  two  sorts  are  easily  distinguished.  The  English  have  wider  petals 
and  are  found  in  shades  of  blue  and  white  only;  the  Spanish  are  often 
yellow  as  well  as  blue,  white,  and  other  shades,  and  have  comparatively 
narrow  petals;  they  also  bloom  two  weeks  earlier.  They  are  quite 
susceptible  to  a  certain  disease  and  to  lessen  its  damage  it  is  advised  to 
take  up  the  bulbs  soon  after  their  leaves  have  died  down  to  the  ground; 
they  could  then  be  planted  again  in  September. 

KING'S  SPEAR.     (See  Eremurus.) 

GRAPE  HYACINTH.     (See  Muscari.) 

LILIES.  Everyone  who  has  a  pretty  garden,  some  time,  sooner  or  later, 
takes  up  the  growing  of  Lilies.  They  are  the  charm  of  the  border 
wherever  they  are  planted.  Success  with  Lilies  is  not  difficult  if  one 
confines  himself  to  a  few  sorts  which  he  can  grow.  Lilies  are  of  such 
diverse  requirements  that  it  is  only  by  careful  preparation  of  soils  and 
individual  study  of  their  needs  that  all  kinds  can  be  grown  successfully 
in  any  one  location.  The  Tiger  Lily  seems  to  grow  as.  easily  as  most 
weeds  and  is  not  even  choked  by  them. 
Other  Lilies  prefer  good  soil,  usually 
light  and  enriched  heavily  with  peat 
and  leafmold.  Manure  should  not  be 
used  except  as  a  mulch.  In  planting 
Lilies,  then,  it  seems  best  to  either  add 
the  needed  sand,  peat  and  leafmold  or 
to  actually  remove  the  native  soil  to  a 
depth  of  two  and  a  half  feet.  A  good 
thick  layer  of  leaves  or  leafmold  is  al- 
ways beneficial  as  a  Winter  mulch  (see 
also  page  197),  unless  there  is  other 
cover.  In  Spring  the  young  shoots  are 
frequently  injured  by  late  frosts  and  it 
is  well  to  use  a  few  evergreen  boughs. 
For  the  landscape  they  are  easily  com-  Lily  of  the  Valley  pip  (reduced), 
bined  with  shrubbery  or  the  herbaceous  2&  •SSStaSnf  a"£8mla. 
border,  where  they  are  perfectly  at  shady  position.  The  pips  should 
home.  The  wild  yellow  or  Canada,  not  be  quite  buried,  but  be  level 
the  Turk's  Gap  and  the  yellow  sped-  rnnual^op-drelS  of'dlcayed 
osum  or  Henryi  succeed  admirably  in  leaves. 


110  GARDEN  GUIDE 

-beds  of  Rhododendrons;  especially  when  the  Rhododendrons  do  not 
crowd  them  too  much.  The  Gold-banded  Lily  should  be  planted 
among  shrubs  so  that  the  roots  are  continually  shaded,  and  where  a 
fair  degree  of  moisture  is  maintained.  The  Coral  and  the  Thunbergian 
Lily  are  excellent  planted  among  ferns,  which  furnish  an  excellent 
landscape  effect  besides.  The  Madonna  grows  nicely  by  itself  and  is 
most  useful  for  clumps  under  pergolas  or  as  an  edging  for  walks. 
The  following  are  species  which  should  succeed  with  a  little  care  in 

many  gardens: 

CANADA  LILY.     (See  Lib'um  canadense.) 

GOLD-BANDED  LILY.     (See  Lilium  auratum.)  x 

HANDSOME  LILY.     (See  Lilium  speciosum.) 

LILIUM  AURATUM  (Gold-banded  Lily).  White,  spotted  brownish  red  and 
with  a  yellow  band  on  each  petal;  three  to  twenty-five  flowers  on  each 
stalk;  flowers  often  a  foot  across;  July  to  August;  four  to  eight  feet. 
One  of  the  largest,  but  it  is'very  capricious  and  may  last  only  a  year  or 
two.  Does  well  in  Rhododendron  beds,  but  it  must  not  be  crowded. 
Plant  six  to  ten  inches  deep.  Mulch  with  very  well  decayed  manure. 
Likes  the  sandier  or  the  more  peaty  soils. 

LILIUM  CANADENSE  (Canada  Lily,  or  Wild  Yellow).  Light  orange,  spotted 
brown;  flowers  drooping;  July;  three  feet;  very  hardy.  Prefers  moist 
soil.  Will  thrive  under  garden  conditions.  Plant  three  inches  deep. 

LILIUM  CANDIDUM  (Madonna  Lily).     White,  yellow  anthers;  June-July; 
Hfour  feet;  hardy.     Thrives  well  in  ordinary  gardens.     Dislikes  being 
moved.    Transplant  in  August.     Leaf  growth  takes  place  in  Septem- 
ber.    Excellent  garden  subject.     Superb  combined  with  Delphinium 
or  Aconitum.    Plant  four  inches  deep. 

LILIUM  CHALCEDONIGUM  (Scarlet  Martagon  Lily).  Bright  red;  small; 
July;  three  feet.  One  of  the  best  small-flowered  Lilies.  Does  not 
flower  well  first  season  after  being  transplanted.  Do  not  transplant 
later  than  October.  Ordinary  garden  loam,  good  drainage.  Plant 
four  inches  deep. 

LILIUM  ELEGANS  (Thunbergian  Lily).     Red  and  orange;  erect;  May  to 

July;  only  a  foot  or  two  tall.     Likes  full  sunshine,  and  plant  as  deep 

as  six  to  eight  inches.     Thrives  in  garden  soil  but  prefers  peat,  light 

*  loam  and  leaf  mold.     Resembles  L.  croceum,  which  is  taller,  and 

more  closely  L.  davuricum. 

LILIUM  HENRYI  (Yellow  Speciosum,  or  Henry's  Lily).  Deep  salmon 
orange;  August  to  September;  six  to  twelve  feet;  very  vigorous;  excellent 
for  border;  very  hardy.  Give  lots  of  water  at  blooming  time.  Any  good 
soil.  Plant  six  to  eight  inches  deep. 

LILIUM  PHILADELPHICUM  (Wood  Lily,  or  Wild  Red  Lily).  Scarlet,  yellow 
center,  dotted  maroon;  erect  flowers;  July  to  August;  eighteen  inches; 
very  hardy;  sun  or  shade;  good  loam.  Best  specimens  found  in  wild; 
often  hard  to  cultivate.  Plant  three  niches  deep. 

LILIUM  REGALE  (MYRIOPHYLLUM)  (Regal  Lily).  White,  slightly  suffused 
pink,  and  canary  yellow  at  center;  fragrant;  hardy  and  vigorous. 
Thrives  in  any  peaty  soil  when  it  becomes  acclimatized. 

LILIUM  SPECIOSUM  (Handsome  Lily).  Pink,  white,  red  varieties,  spotted 
crimson;  petals  very  reflexed;  rubrumis  most  common  variety;  August; 
two  to  three  feet.  Docs  well  in  either  sun  or  shade.  Likes  a  sandy 
loam  best,  deep  and  rich.  Succeeds  admirably  when  planted  among 
other  perennials  which  shade  the  soil. 


BULBOUS  PLANTS 


111 


LILIUM  SUPERBUM  (Turk's  Cap).    Orange,  flushed  scarlet,  spotted  brown; 

ten  to  thirty  flowers  on  a  stem;  July  to  August;  six  to  eight  feet;  hardy. 

Good  for  border  if  soil  is  rather  rich  and  moist.     Excellent  among  low, 

shrubby  growth.     Plant  four  inches  deep. 
LILIUM  TENUIFOLIUM  (Coral  Lily).  Deep  scarlet;  strong,  recurved;  six  to 

ten  flowers  on  stem;  leaves  fine;  June  to  July;  one  and  one-half  feet. 

Treat  as  a  garden  subject.     Give  partial  shade.     It  is  short-lived  and 

soon  declines  after  its  best  production  of  bloom.     Grows  readily  from 

seed.     Plant  three  inches  deep. 


This  diagram  shows  approximately  how  deep  and  how  far  apart  to  plant  the 

different  kinds  of  hardy  bulbs  in  light  soil.    In  heavy  soil  plant  an  inch  to  an 

inch  and  a  half  nearer  the  surface 


LILIUM  TIGRINUM  (Tiger  Lily).  Orange  red,  spotted  purple;  large;  petals 
reflexed;  July  to  August;  six  feet;  very  hardy.  Thrives  in  any  soil; 
prefers  sa*ndy  or  peaty  loam.  Plant  five  to  six  inches  deep.  Stake 
or  plant  against  wall  to  protect  against  winds. 

MADONNA  LILY.     (See  Lilium  candidum.) 

REGAL  LILY.     (See  Lilium  regale.) 

SCARLET  MARTAGON  LILY.     (See  Lilium  chalcedonicum.) 

THUNBERGIAN  LILY.     (See  Lilium  elegans.) 

TIGER  LILY.     (See  Lilium  tigrinum.) 

TURK'S  GAP.     (See  Lilium  superbum.) 

WOOD  LILY.     (See  Lilium  philadelphicum.) 

YELLOW  SPECIOSUM.     (See  Lilium  Henryi.) 

MUSCARI  (Grape  Hyacinth).  Species:  botryoides  and  plumosus  var. 
monstrosum.  Here  is  a  little  gem  for  the  garden.  The  blue  and  white 
miniature  bells,  when  seen  in  mass,  are  most  attractive  either  in  the 
border  or  when  naturalized  in  grass  or  woodland.  There  are  several 
other  forms  which  are  intensely  interesting,  especially  the  plumed  or 
feathery  Grape  Hyacinth  (Muscari  plumosum  var.  monstrosum).  In 
this  the  floral  parts  are  much  elongated  and  appear  very  feathery.  It 


112  GARDEN  GUIDE 

grows  only  six  or  eight  inches  tall  and  needs  to  be  planted  in  very 
front  of  border  or  in  rockery. 

NARCISSUS.  There  are  a  great  many  types  and  species  of  Narcissus.  So 
great  is  the  difference  of  opinion  concerning  them,  even  by  botanists, 
that  we  will  not  try  to  present  any  complete  outline  of  them,  except  to 
say  that  the  following  may  help  to  classify  the  various  types: 

Doubles — Von  Sion,  properly  called  Telamonius  plenus;  very  showy;  an 
old  variety;  the  flower  usually  referred  to  when  the  Daffodil  is  men- 
tioned. 

Pure  White — Albicans  odorata;  perhaps  the  commonest  white;  the  flowers 

are  nodding.     Madame  de  Graaff;  largest;  late. 

Pure  Yellow — Ard  Righ;  early.  Golden  Spur;  also  early  and  is  a  sure 
bloomer.  Emperor;  excellent  flower;  good  keeping  qualities.  Glory 
of  Leiden;  late;  very  fine;Jarge. 

Bicolors — Empress;  large,  fine,  rich  yellow  trumpet;  companion  in  season 
to  Emperor.  Victoria;  the  earliest  good,  lasting  one.  Horsfieldi; 
good  appearance  in  garden. 

LONG  TRUMPET.  To  this  class  belong  all  varieties  with  distinct  tubular 
center's  which  are  as  long  as  the  outer  parts  of  the  flower.  There  are  two 
groups  of  the  long  trumpet  Narcissus;  the  self  colors  and  the  bicolors; 
besides  these  there  are  singles  and  doubles.  The  doubles  are  termed 
Daffodils. 

MEDIUM  TRUMPET.  To  this  class  belong  all  varieties  with  distinct  tubular 
centers,  which  are  about  half  as  long  as  the  outer  parts  of  the  flower. 
When  the  flower  doubles  the  tubular  centers  are  really  present  but  are 
much  divided.  Some  of  the  principal  of  the  incomparabilis  and  Leedsii 
varieties  are:  Barri  conspicuus,  light  yellow  bloom,  the  crown  being 
edged  orange  red;  Sir  Watkin,  large,  bold,  free  flowering,  most  effective 
for  garden;  Autocrat,  very  prettily  shaped  canary  yellow  bloom  which 
succeeds  nicely.  Mrs.  Langtry,  pale  creamy  yellow,  good  for  cutting. 
Duchess  of  Westminster,  a  yellow  and  white  flower,  large  and  beautiful. 

SHORT  TRUMPET.  To  this  class  belong  all  varieties  in  which  the  tubular 
center  is  a  mere  cup  or  even  a  ruffle.  The  flowers  of  some  of  the  varieties 
belonging  to  this  group  are  borne  in  bunches  of  from  three  to  ten  blooms. 
They  are  called  Tazetta  or  Polyanthus  varieties.  They  are  not  hardy  and 
should  not  be  planted  out  of  doors.  Varieties  representative  of  this 
group  are:  the  Chinese  Sacred  Lily,  the  Paperwhite  Narcissus  (which  is  so 
easily  grown  in  pots),  and  the  yellow  Soleil  d'Or.  Varieties  which 
merely  have  a  frill  at  the  center  are  Poet's  Narcissus.  They  are  very 
adaptable  to  garden  culture  and  often  spread  very  rapidly.  The 
catalogues  term  them  poeticus  varieties.  They  should  not  be  confused 
with  the  Poetaz  varieties,  which  are  hybrids  between  poeticus  and 
Tazetta;  these  are  not  very  hardy.  A  third  class  are  the  Jonquils. 
Many  persons  call  any  single  Narcissus  a  Jonquil;  this  is  a  mistake. 
Jonquils  have  very  slender  leaves;  the  flowers  are  either  single  or 
double,  yellow  and  very  fragrant;  two  to  six  flowers  are  borne  on  each 
stem;  the  trumpet  is  a  little  longer  than  the  Tazetta  varieties.  The 
chief  variety  of  Jonquilla  is  rugulosus.  Jonquils  are  small  and  not 
hardy  but  are  worthy  of  pot  culture. 

Cultivation. — The  Narcissus  is  one  of  the  most  persistent  bulbous 
plants  when  once  established.  It,  therefore,  lends  itself  admirably  to 
be  planted  by  the  thousands  in  grass  for  a  naturalistic  effect.  Its 


BULBOUS  PLANTS  113 

natural  method  of  rapidly  dividing  year  after  year  insures  its  spreading 
widely.   They  also  do  well  in  beds  and  borders. 

SCILLAS,  or  SQUILLS.  Species:  sibirica  (Siberian  Squill),  companulata 
(Wood  Hyacinth),  and  bifolia.  The  Siberian  Squill  bears  an  intensely 
blue  flower  which  is  unexcelled  for  the  planting  of  entire  beds.  The 
bulbs  are  extremely  hardy,  the  beds  needing  almost  no  care.  The  Wood 
Hyacinths  are  white,  light  pink  or  blue,  and  are  very  showy  used  as 
clumps  in  borders  or  woodland.  They  much  resemble  the  Hyacinth, 
except  that  the  blooms  are  much  more  sparsely  arranged. 


POND  WITH  WATER  LILIES 

There  are  many  places  that  could  be  converted  into  pools  for  Water  Lilies, 
even  in  small  gardens.  The  pools  or  ponds  should  be  2  ft.  to  2l/2  ft.  deep. 
The  plants  can  be  placed  in  boxes  or  hampers  of  a  size  2x2x1  ft.,  or  a  system 
of  half  barrels  or  hogsheads  can  be  arranged  in  a  chain,  with  water  running 
between  each.  Sometimes  a  number  of  barrels  are  arranged  together, 
either  sunk  in  the  soil  or  grass,  or  arranged  a  little  above,  sufficiently  close 
to  have  soil  filled  between  them,  and  Papyrus,  Reeds,  and  other  plants 
planted  therein 

SNOWDROP.     (See  Galanthus.) 

SQUILLS.     (See  Scillas.) 

SUMMER  HYACINTH.     (See  Galtonia  candicans.) 

TULIPS.  The  finest  garden  subject  among  the  Dutch  bulbs  is,  in  the 
opinion  of  many,  the  Tulip.  It  is  so  hardy,  the  colors  are  both  dainty 
and  vivid,  the  form  is  exquisite,  and  the  ease  of  success  commends  it 
to  every  garden.  It  is  hardly  a  wonder  that  hi  1634  there  was  a 
Tulipomania,  a  time  when  bulbs  were  placed  in  balances  with  gold, 
when  a  single  bulb  of  Semper  Augustus  sold  for  thirteen  thousand 
florins  and  it  was  necessary  for  the  Government  to  interfere  in  this  wild 
speculation.  The  name  has  been  derived  from  the  Persian  toliban,  or 


114  GARDEN  GUIDE 

turban,  which  the  flower  resembles.  There  are  a  number  of  forms  of 
Tulips,  all  of  which  are  interesting.  The  earliest  Tulips  are  of  the 
Due  Van  Thol  group  (Tulipa  suaveolens).  The  stems  are  rather  short 
and  they  would  not  be  commended  for  garden  culture  except  for  the 
fact  that  they  are  very  early.  They  are  usually  characterized  by 
rather  pointed  or  laterally  rolled  petals.  The  midseason  Tulips  occupy 
most  of  the  garden  interest.  Hundreds  of  varieties  are  pictured  and 
described  in  the  catalogues.  This  main  group  is  often  termed  the 
Gesneriana  Tulips.  It  includes  the  peculiar  fringed  petaled  group, 
known  as  the  Parrot  or  Dragon,  together  with  the  Darwins  with  their 
subtle  colors  and  long  stems,  as  weU  as  the  May-flowering  or  Cottage 
varieties,  which  possess  the  long  stems  of  the  Darwins,  but  the  blooms, 
instead  of  being  globular,  are  more  or  less  bell-shaped,  the  tips  of  the 
petals  being  reflexed.  With  excellent  effect  we  have  seen  the  exquisite 
scarlet  Pride  of  Haarlem,  a  Darwin  variety,  growing  in  a  bed  of  blue 
German  Iris  (pallida  dalmatica).  When  the  Tulips  have  finished 
flowering  the  Iris  begins  and  the  color  scheme  is  entirely  changed  in  a 
few  weeks'  time. 
WINTER  ACONITE.  (See  Eranthis  hyemalis.) 


CHAPTER  X 

Hardy  Garden  Ferns 

NORTHERN  exposures  and  moist- places  always  suggest  ferns. 
They  are  usually  somewhat  fragile  and  must  be  protected 
from  high  winds.  They  usually  need  an  abundance  of  water, 
but  prefer  good  drainage.  Furthermore,  they  should  be  planted  where 
water  will  not  continually  drip  upon  them.  They  are  especially  success- 
ful under  trees  where  they  take  care  of  themselves  nicely.  They 
should  be  transplanted  in  early  Spring  or  Fall — those  in  exposed  places 
better  in  Spring.  They  may  be  planted  in  clumps  of  all  of  one  species 
or  they  may  be  mixed.  Among  rocks,  on  a  slope,  is  a  very  good  place 
for  them.  They  vary  in  height  from  four  inches  to  four  feet.  Ferns 
possess  creeping  underground  stems;  some  are  deep,  others  are  merely 
surface  creeping;  a  few  have  thick,  upright  stems,  which  are  hard  to 
pull  up. 

The  soil  that  ferns  will  like  varies  greatly.  The  best  method  of 
knowing  what  soil  they  need  is  to  note  where  they  grow  naturally. 
In  general,  most  ferns  like  a  deep,  rich,  not  too  heavy  soil — better 
with  little  peat  in  it.  In  their  native  habitat  they  have  few  or  no 
enemies,  but  in  the  garden  they  are  attacked  often  by  wood  lice, 
slugs,  snails,  caterpillars  and  the  grub  of  the  daddy  longlegs. 

The  fern  spores  are  very  peculiar  for  they  are  produced  in  little 
sling  shots  which  are  so  small  as  to  appear  like  brown  spots  on  the 
lower  sides  of  the  leaves.  Some  persons  have  thought  their  ferns 
unhealthy  when  they  have  seen  these  brown  areas,  but  this  is  not  the 
case,  for  it  is  the  normal  procedure  to  produce  spores.  When  these 
sling  shots  ripen  tKey  burst  open  and  scatter  their  contents.  The 
spores,  instead  of  growing  into  a  fern  that  we  would  recognize,  produce 
funny  little  green  plants  like  a  heart-shaped  leaf,  usually  the  diameter 
of  a  lead  pencil.  These  green  plants  produce  spores  and  it  is  from  them 
that  the  characteristic  fern  grows  (see  also  page  204.)  There  are 
many  kinds.  We  name  the  following: 
ADIANTUM  PEDATUM  (Maidenhair).  Prefers  a  well-drained,  light  soil. 

It  is  of  a  poor  color  when  grown  in  the  sun. 
ASPIDIUM.     (See  Dryopteris). 
ASPLENIUM   ACROSTICHOIDES.     Moisture  loving;   some  shade.     Endures 

sunlight  if  cool. 
ANGUSTIFOLIUM.    Avoid  the  removal  of  old  fronds.    New  crop  springs 

up  and  weakens  the  plant. 

115 


116 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


FILIX  FOEMINA  (Lady  Fern).    Good,  rich  loam,  moist.    Excellent,  well 

formed  fronds,  which  are  very  variable. 
PINNATIFIDUM.    A  small  evergreen  fern  found  in  depth  of  glens.    Useful 

for  planting  between  stones. 
TRIGHOMANES.     A  rock  garden  plant. 
PLATYNEURON  (Ebony  Spleenwort). 

GAMPTOSORUS  RHIZOHPYLLUS  (Walking  Fern).     Prefers  dry  ledges. 
GHEILANTHES  LANOSA.    Prefers  deep  shade. 
TOMENTOSA.     Prefers  less  shade;  more  moisture. 
FENDLERI. 
GYSTOPTERIS  BULBIFERA.    Plant  in  shade  upon  a  moist  bank. 

FRAGILJS.     Fronds  die  early  in  August. 
DENNSTCEDTIA  (Dicksonia)  PUNCTULOBULA  (Hay-scented   Fern).     Heavy 

growth.     Grow  for  cutting  for  Summer. 

DRYOPTERIS  (Aspidium)  BOOTTII.     Does  not  need  Winter  shade. 
CRISTATA,  var.  GLINTONIANUM.     Swampy  ground. 
FILIX-MAS  (Male  Fern).    Rich  soft;  deep  shade. 
GOLDIEANA.    Gool,  rich  soil.    Good  in  acid  soil  or  leaf  mold.    Large, 

heavy  growth. 
MARGINALE.      When 
transplanted     in 
full  leaf  the  plants 
rarely      survive. 
Like  a  rich,  moist 
soil     and     deep 
shade. 

NOVEBORACENSIS. 

Not  good  for  cut- 
ting. Easily  trans- 
planted. 

SPINULOSA,  var.  IN- 
TERMEDIA (Spinu- 
lose  Shield  Fern). 
Good  in  wet,  and 
under  trees  as 
well. 

THELYPTERIS.  Par- 
tial shade  in 
marshes. 

LYGODIUM  PALMATUM 
(The  Climbing 
Fern;  Hartford 
Fern).  This  fern 
is  difficult  to  es- 
tablish. It  is  mois- 
ture loving. 

ONOCLEA  SENSIBILIS 
(Sensitive  Fern). 
Wet  ditches  and 
rich,  moist  soil; 
partial  shade. 

Moisture   loving  plants   by   the  edge  of   the  water  STRUTHIOPTERIs(Os- 


HARDY  FERNS 


117 


trich  Fern). 
Burns  in  full 
sunshine. 

OSMUNDA  CINNAMOMEA 

(Cinnamon 
Fern).  Moist, 
rich. 

GLAYTONIANA  (In- 
terrupted Fern). 
Move  while  dor- 
mant. 

REGALIS.  Peaty; 
branching;  edges 
of  brooks. 

POLYPODIUM  VULGARE 

(Common  poly- 
pody.) Can  be 
planted  up  the 
ledges  of  gorges. 


WATER  SIDE 
PLANTS 

The  selection  of 
plants  suitable  for  the 
water  and  water  side 
is  a  large^one,  chief 
among  the  first  named 
being,  of  course,  the 
true  Water  Lilies  or 
Nymphseas,  while  the 
Rice  Plant,  or  Ziza- 
nia,  the  Flowering 

Rush  or  Butomus,  also  various  of  the  Reed  Maces  or  Typhas  can  be 
used  with  success. 

Among  the  water  side  plants  (frequently  spoken  of  as  bog  plants) 
are  the  Globe  flowers,  (Trollius),  the  stately  scarlet  Lobelia  in  several 
varieties,  a  selection  of  Loosestrifes,  particularly  the  one  called  Ly- 
simachia  clethroides,  and  the  gay  Monkey-flowers  (Mimulus),  in- 
cluding cardinalis  and  Lewisi.  The  beautiful  Moccasin  Flower,  called 
Gypripedium  spectabile,  must  not  be  forgotten,  the  latter,  together 
with  other  hardy  orchids,  being  suitable  for  the  drier  parts  of  the 
ground.  The  list,  however,  could  be  very  greatly  enlarged. 


Flagstone  path  through  bog-garden  and  semi-wild 

garden.     Good  use  can  be  made  of  Gunneras,  Spiraeas, 

Japanese  Irises,  Knot-grass,  Giant  Reed  and  similar 

plants 


118 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


CHAPTER  XI 

The  Rock  Garden 

THOSE  persons  who  like  imported  products  of  every  kind  will 
prefer  to  call  these  Alpine  Gardens.  There  are  so  many  parts 
of  the  United  States  where  rocks  abound  that  it  is  very  peculiar 
that  more  really  good  rock  gardens  are  not  to  be  seen. 

We  do  not  wish  to  advocate  the  establishment  of  a  garden  of 
this  sort  where  the  rocks  must  be  moved  a  great  distance.  We  feel 
that  such  a  feature  as  this  in  the  prairie  region  is  rather  incongruous; 
besides,  the  cost  is  prohibitive.  There  are,  however,  certain  regions 
which  are  well  adapted  for  informal  rockeries.  Central  Park  at  the 
center  of  New  York  City  has  wonderful  outcrops  of  granite,  in  which 
are  all  sorts  of  crevices  and  holes  for  plants.  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  has 
an  abundance  of  peculiarly  weathered  limestone  formations  which 
are  very  useful.  Each  vicinity  has  a  different  sort  of  native  rock 
formation,  so  that  the  type  of  planting  will  greatly  differ.  Rocks 
should  hardly  be  placed  for  a  definite  display  of  themselves,  for  they 
should  be  the  background. 

We  have  only  to  visit  Japan  or  read  of  her  gardens;  they  are  rock 
gardens;  they  are  really  rock  landscapes.  In  them  we  find  that 
rocks  are  as  important  as  plants.  We  discover  their  arrangement 
studied.  We  hear  that  imperial  edicts  have  been  sent  out  from  time 
to  time  prohibiting  tbe  price  which  may  be  paid  for  rock.  It  seems 
that  during  one  of  the  dynasties  the  interest  in  foreign  rocks  was  so 
great  that  such  an  edict  was  necessary.  If  we  should  remark  to  the 
Japanese  gardener  that  a  collection  of  rocks  such  as  he  has  in  his 
landscape  is  mere  geology,  he  would  ask  us  what  difference  it  made 
so  long  as  the  whole  was  beautiful  and  meant  something.  He  would 
continue  to  say  that  our  own  American  gardens  do  not  have  any  real 
significance.  Few  of  the  Japanese  gardens  in  America  have  the  real 
essential  features.  The  American  wants  to  use  the  Japanese  material, 
but  not  understanding  the  Oriental  arrangement  he  prefers  an  arrange- 
ment which  he  has  imagined  is  the  real  way  the  Japanese  gardens 
look.  For  one  who  cannot  read  Japanese,  two  pages  of  a  Japanese 
book  look  enough  alike  to  be  equally  well  covered  with  interesting 
characters.  So  with  a  garden;  one  which  is  American  using  Japanese 
plants  and  receptacles  looks  superficially  like  the  real  Japanese  arrange- 
ment. 

119 


120  GARDEN  GUIDE 

We  have  digressed,  but  we  must  return  to  our,own  country  where 
the  conditions  are  really  quite  beneficial  for  rock  features.  An  ideal 
situation  is  one  where  the  plants  are  protected  with  snow  during  the 
Winter  and  not  subjected  to  extremely  hot  conditions  in  Summer. 
'The  moist,  cool  rock  crevices  lend  themselves  most  admirably  to  this 
treatment. 

CONSTRUCTION.  The  amount  of  construction  necessary  will  vary 
according  to  what  is  at  hand  to  begin  with.  Let  us  suppose  that  we 
have  a  rocky  bank  which  may  even  be  a  sort  of  supporting  wall;  per- 
haps we  have  a  small  brook  whose  sides  we  would  like  to  plant,  or  we 
may  have  to  construct  the  garden  from  the  start. 

The  first  case,  that  of  a  rocky  bank  or  wall,  is  the  simplest  to 
manage.  It  may  be  necessary  to  use  a  wedge  to  open  up  some  of  the 
cracks  so  that  they  become  larger;  these  should  be  filled  with  a  rather 
rich,  not  too  light,  soil  consisting  of  good  loam  and  one-fourth  manure. 
It  is  advisable  to  have  all  the  crevices  open  into  areas  of  soil.  This 
we  cannot  do  upon  natural  rock  banks.  With  these  natural  rock 
gardens  we  must  take  a  chance  as  to  the  depth  of  the  crack  and  soil. 

In  planting  a  brookside,  boulders  and  rocks  will  be  available 
usually.  The  problem  here  is  to  build  up  the  rocks  informally  and 
with  soil  between  them.  Many  an  innocent  Summer  brook  is  a  bad 
marauder  in  the  Spring.  Confine  your  efforts  to  the  areas  above  the 
flood  and  perhaps  sow  a  few  annuals  near  the  water.  Do  not  spend 
too  much  energy  arranging  the  rocks  nicely  in  the  basin  of  the  brook. 
The  water  will  no  doubt  destroy  all  your  efforts. 

When  we  must  construct  an  entirely  new  rockery  the  problem  is 
greater.  It  should  run  nearly  north  and  south;  this  will  provide 
various  exposures  for  different  plants.  Above  all  things,  avoid  any 
cut  stone,  brick  or  anything  artificial.  Statuary  is  never  at  home  in 
a  rock  garden.  If  the  garden  must  be  made  from  flat  land  the  best 
thing  to  do  is  to  dig  out  a  little  valley,  running  it  very  irregularly. 
The  soil  removed  can  be  used  to  build  up  on  the  sides,  so  that  the 
little  vale  appears  deeper  than  it  is.  It  must  be  added  that  there  is 
danger  in  having  a  wet  hole  instead  of  a  beautiful  rock  garden  if  the 
created  valley  has  poor  drainage.  Shrubs  can  be  planted  about  the 
mound  on  the  outside.  This  building  up  of  the  soil  must  be  done  in  a 
very  irregular  way  and  care  should  be  taken  that  the  top  soil  is  saved 
from  the  land  which  will  be  covered,  for  it  will  again  be  needed  to 
cover  the  subsoil  laid  bare. 

When  the  soil  has  been  removed  the  rocks  can  be  placed.  They 
should  never  be  arranged  in  correct  tiers,  nor  should  the  direction  of 
the  strata  in  the  rock  be  seriously  changed.  The  sketch  shows  the 
strata  of  the  rocks  naturally  arranged  and  provided  with  a  dip  which 


THE  ROCK  GARDEN 


will  catch  the  moisture.  Leave  plenty  of  soil  space  between  the 
rocks  and  plan  little  pockets  to  catch  the  water.  Provide  drainage 
by  the  use  of  a  quantity  of  ashes  or  fine  gravel  in  the  center  of  the 
mound.  The  rocks  get  very  hot  and  some  plants  may  dry  readily. 
If  a  little  water  can  be  provided  it  should  be  conducted  to  the  top 
and  allowed  to  seep  down  through  the  crevices.  In  Winter  a  protec- 
tion of  straw  and  decayed  manure  over  the  plants  will  be  beneficial. 
It  is  best  not  to  remove  this  protection  too  early.  Neglect  it  a  bit. 
Evergreen  branches  are  excellent  for  those  plants  which  do  not  die 
down  each  year. 

MATERIAL  FOR  ROCK  GARDEN.     The  rock  garden  is 
essentially  a  wild   feature   and   a   great   deal  of  native 
material   should    be   used.      No   variegated 
freak    horticultural    varieties    should    be  in- 
troduced.   Even  fancy  and  well  bred  varieties 
are  better  when    absent.    We   refer   to   the 
Mme.  Chereau  German 
Iris  or,  in  fact,  anything 
dressy.      It   is   well    to 
grow  in  the  rockery  the 
interesting  little    plants 
which   need  special   at- 
tention     to     be     seen 
properly. 

Bulbs  are  excellent. 
Snowdrops,  Narcissus, 
Scillas,  Fritillarias,  and 
Crocuses  are  all  quite 
necessary. 

Large  trees    should 

be  avoided  and  some  trees  especially;  for  example,  Hawthorns  and 
Elms  require  much  water  and  should  never  be  planted.  The  smaller 
evergreens,  Junipers,  Arborvit*s,  broad-leaved  evergreens,  Yucca 
and  Cacti  are  excellent. 

If  the  rock  area  is  extensive  and  a  very  quick  result  is  wished,  the 
use  of  annuals  is  excellent.  Dr.  Southwick  has  used  annuals  most 
effectively  in  his  "Garden  of  the  Heart"  in  Central  Park,  N.  Y.  The 
otherwise  objectionable  colors  of  Petunia  are  there  very  cheery. 
Lobelia  erinus  is  indispensable.  California  Poppies,  either  the  golden, 
the  crimson  or  the  white  ones,  are  very  pretty.  Baby's  Breath  (Gyp- 
sophila  muralis,  the  pink,  or  elegans,.the  white)  adds  a  graceful  touch. 


Diagram  to  show,  in  a  general  way,  the  placing 
of  the  boulders  or  large  stones  in  the  making  of 
rock  garden.  A  shelving  arrangement  is  adopted, 
leaving  spaces,  called  pockets,  between  the  stones. 
These  should  be  arranged  so  as  to  catch  the  rain. 
At  the  same  time  the  water  must  pass  readily 
away  through  drainage  channels 


122  GARDEN  GUIDE 

The  ornamental  grasses  look  well  combined  in  various  places  with 
the  various  blooming  perennials.  The  annual  Larkspurs  and  Lupines 
are  both  good  blue  subjects.  Portulacas,  Sanvitalias,  Bouncing  Bet 


This  picture  shows  a  closer,  more  intimate  view  of  a  rock  garden.  In  this 

instance  it  is  employed  most  fittingly  as  an  ornamental  feature  between  the 

inner  flower  garden  and  the  outer  semi-wild  parts 

(Saponaria  ocymoides)  and  Nemophila  are  of  just  the  proper  habit 
for  the  rockery.  Speaking  of  rock  gardens  in  California,  even  as  far 
south  as  Los  Angeles,  a  writer  in  a  paper  there  says:  "These  rock 
gardens  are  positively  alluring,  for  if  one  but  follows  a  bank  having 
a  turn  in  direction  of  but  a  quarter  circle  he  may  find  at  one  end  the 
Edelweiss  of  the  European  Alps,  and  at  the  other,  through  gradual  tran- 
sitional plant  Zones,  cacti  from  the  desert  sands.  Next  to  the 
alpines  is  often  brought  in  fern  dells  with  trickling  streams  and 
waterfalls." 

(For  perennials  useful  for  rockery,   see  page  65.) 


CHAPTER  XII 

Garden  Furniture 

A  GARDEN  of  any  size  should  not  be  without  a  garden  seat,  a 
bird  bath  and  similar  adjuncts.    Convenient  seats  and  appro- 
priate garden  accessories  should  be  a  great  joy.    Inappropriate 
and  mean-nothing  garden  features  should  always  be  avoided.   Pergolas 
which  lead  nowhere  nor  hold  up  any  vine  are  out  of  place.  Garden 
fences  which  are  too  fantastic  are  like  the  too  frequent  highly  ornate 
vases  used  in  our  homes  for  the  simplest  flowers.    Furthermore,  the 
style  of  the  house  and  the  manner  of  planting  will  largely  determine 
the  propriety  of  every  garden  seat,  bird  house  or  fence. 

GARDEN  BENCHES.  An  excellent,  substantial  garden  bench  may 
be  constructed  quite  cheaply.  A  working  drawing  for  such  a  bench  is 
shown.  It  is  made  entirely  of  three-inch  stuff,  and  can  be  either1 
longer  or  shorter  than  six  feet.  It  has  been  thought  best  to  place 
the  legs  one  foot  from  each  end  of  the  bench,  unless  the  bench  is  shorter, 
when  it  will  be  better  to  have  them  six  inches  from  the  end.  Four 
designs  are  here  found  for  the  ends.  They  are  merely  suggestive; 
others  may  be  used  just  as  well,  but  they  should  be  simple  and  in 
every  case  should  be  wide  at  top  and  bottom.  Small  brackets 
are  placed  under  the  top  on  each  side  of  the  legs.  They  are  made  of 
two-  or  three-inch  material,  the  legs  of  the  right  angle  being  three 
inches.  If  one  prefers,  three  long  screws  may  be  placed  through  the 
top  of  the  bench  into  the  standards.  In  order  to  give  the  legs  a  good 
standard,  they  are  faced  on  all  sides  at  the  base  with  a  strip  of  two  by 
two  and  one-half-inch  stuff.  The  bench  may  be  painted  white,  light 
gray  or  green. 

RUSTIC  WOODWORK.  For  this  work  there  are  a  number  of  good 
sorts  of  wood.  Some  are  used  with  the  bark  and  other  wood  is  peeled 
before  using.  Hickory,  red  Cedar,  Cherry,  Blackthorn,  Birch,  Larch 
and  Fir  are  used  with  the  bark.  Such  wood  should  be  used  only 
when  dry  and  is  best  cut  hi  the  Winter,  when  little  sap  is  flowing.  It 
is  stored  to  dry  and  season. 

To  make  the  chair  (p.  128),  select  two  back  poles  which  have 
nearly  the  same  curve,  then  the  front  posts  which  are  nearly  straight. 
There  are  two  ways  the  parts  may  be  joined,  the  first  way  being  to  bore 
holes  in  both  the  uprights  and  crosspieces  and  fit  pegs  or  dowels  of 
ash  or  elm  into  them.  The  other  method  is  to  make  a  tenon  at  the 

123 


124 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


\< 


simple  garden  house 


end  of  the  one  piece  and 
a  hole  to  receive  it  in  the 
other.  This  latter  method 
is  not  as  strong  and  is 
usually  harder  to  make. 
In  both  cases  the  parts 
should  fit  very  tightly. 
When  putting  together 
finally,  coat  all  joints 
with  white  lead  thinned 
with  boiled  linseed  oil. 
It  is  best  to  put  a  nail 
or  screw  in  all  important 
joints  and  wipe  off  the 
surface  white  lead  which 
may  remain.  The  seat  is 
made  of  split  wood  bev- 
eled at  ends  to  fit  on  the  main  stays.  If  the  seat  does  not  seem  perfectly 
solid,  a  brace  or  two  can  be  fitted  in  from  below  and  the  seat  nailed  to 
it.  Many  ingenious  garden  benches,  screens, 
trellises  and  pergolas  may  be  made  in  this  way. 
Care  must  be  taken  that  all  such  furniture  or 
bridges  are  perfectly  strong.  Our  recollec- 
tion of  rustic  things  is  that  they  are 
frequently  out  of  repair.  All  sharp  twig 
stubs  must  be  removed  and  care  should  be 
exercised  to  keep  all  nails  from  sight  or 
from  doing  injury. 

THE  GARDEN  HOUSE  offers  possibilities 
for  the  enjoyment  of  the  mistress  of  the  house 
as  well  as  furnishing  an  ideal  playhouse  for 
the  children.  Every  child  likes  a  playhouse. 
He  thinks  it  is  his  own  house.  It  is  well  to 
place  the  garden  house  in  the  shade  of  a 
large  tree  where  it  will  be  cool  afternoons.  It 
should  be  built  so  that  it  can  be  opened  on 
all  sides.  The  sketch  on  this  page  shows 
such  a  garden  house  of  simple  construction. 
The  posts  are  of  white  Pine  and  the  wain- 
scoting on  sides  is  made  of  slender  twigs 
tacked  upon  the  rough  board  sides. 


(Text  continued  on  page  127) 


A  "step-ladder"  column 

supporting  a  dove    cote 

and  bearing  a  climbing 

plant 


GARDEN  FURNITURE 
O 


125 


The  centre  rods  are 
B  i  in    dia        and  (h     ,hre  ,i, 

^  ei.hersideiin.diam.  ^1., 

A  DAINTY  TRELLIS,  WHICH  CAN  BE  MADE  IN  WROUGHT  IRON  OR  WOOD 

This  design  we  reproduce  from  the  country  estate  catalogue  of  the  London  firm 

of  Wood  &  Son.     The  hurdles  are  6  ft.  long,  with  a  stay  to  each,  bolted  with 

nuts,  and  are  painted  any  color.     The  height  is  5  ft.  from  the  ground. 


AfcRUSTIC'GARDEN  SEAT 


DESIGN  FOR  A  RUSTIC  BRIDGE 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


JlL 


I! 

ai 

^   4i 

w    2 


GARDEN  FURNITURE 


127 


TRELLISED  ARCHES 

Another  of  Wood  &  Son's  designs.    These  can  be  made  in  wood 

or  wrought  iron.       The  arches  are  9  ft.   high,   composed   of 

ornamental  standards,  the  width  of  the  arches  being  6  ft. 


(Continued  from  page  124) 

FOUNTAINS.  The  fountain  need  not  be  the  possession  of  the 
large  estate  owner  alone,  for  it  may  merely  be  an  inch  pipe  conducted 
underground  to  a  convenient  spot  where  a  pool  can  easily  be  con- 
structed of  concrete.  In 
,  many  places  the  pool 
should  not  be  the  con- 
ventional circular  pool, 
but  the  border  should 
be  irregular  and  covered 
with  a  naturalistic  plant- 
ing. Fountains  may  be  of 
the  gurgly,  squirty  or 
spray  sort;  all  are  pretty. 
To  some  the  squirty  sort 
have  an  air  of  impa- 
tience or  nervousness 
which  makes  them  only 
useful  at  some  distance 
from  the  garden  seat.  On 
the  other  hand,  certain 

_    fountains    give    a   rest- 

ful,  cool  aspect  to  the 
An  airy,  rustic  pavilion  garden,  which  is  greatly 


128 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


MAKING  A  RUSTIC  CHAIR 

A,  side;   b,  back;  c,  front;    d,  seat; 

e,  method  of  holding  chair  together 
by   use  of  pegs,   filled    into    holes 
bored    into    corresponding     parts; 

f ,  method  of  making  tenons  with- 
out boring  holes  for  insertion  of 

pegs 


GARDEN  FURNITURE 


129 


enjoyed.  There  seems  a  universal  enjoy- 
ment of  water.  Here  the  birds  come,  here 
plants  may  be  grown,  and  here  goldfish 
may  be  kept,  and  being*  fed  at  a  certain 
time  each  day  will  become  tame  enough 
to  take  the  food  from  the  hand. 

By  one  or  all  of  these  various  ad- 
juncts, appurtenances,  garden  ornaments, 
garden  furniture,  the  beauty  and  comfort 
of  the  place  can  be  considerably  enhanced. 
The  making  of  many  of  these  things  will, 
like  the  garden  work  itself,  furnish  agree- 
able recreation  for  many  a  holiday,  Satur- 
day afternoon  or  other  period  of  one's 
leisure. 


A  rustic  arch 


Rustic  seat 


130 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Pergola  of  classical  design  covered  with  grape-vines.      Square  sided,  paneled 

columns  on  the  right;  round  columns  on   the  left.     Such  a   pergola  is,  of 

course,  beyond  the  means  of  all  but  the  very  well-to-do.  An  easily  made  rustic 

pergola  is  shown  on  page  54 


CHAPTER  XIII 

Fruit  for  the  Small  Garden 

IN  considering  a  collection  of  fruit  trees  for  a  suburban  garden, 
particular  attention  will  be  given  those  varieties  which  produce 
a  maximum  amount  of  fruit  in  a  minimum  of  space  and  which 
are  designed  to  supply  the  family  with  fruit  for  the  table  and  culinary 
purposes  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  Available  space  must,  of  course, 
be  considered  in  planting  a  fruit  garden,  and  location  must  determine 
to  a  large  degree  the  manner  of  planting  and  arrangement  of  the 
different  fruits  so  as  to  allow  each  kind  the  greatest  amount  of  light 
and  air  possible.  Apples  and  Pears,  Peaches,  Plums  and  Cherries, 
therefore,  should  be  planted  to  avoid  casting  too  great  a  shade  on 
the  smaller  fruits  such  as  Strawberries  and  Currants.  Raspberries, 
Blackberries  and  Grapes  should  be  confined  to  trellises  and  not  allowed 
to  extend  beyond  certain  limits,  but  to  accomplish  this,  regular  atten- 
tion to  pruning  and  thinning  is  absolutely  necessary.  A  small  fruit 
garden  judiciously  planned  and  planted  will  be  a  source  of  pleasure 
and  profit,  and  well  repay  all  the  attention  that  can  be  be- 
stowed. 

Having  chosen  a  location,  proceed  at  once  thoroughly  to  cultivate 
the  ground,  using  a  subsoil  plough,  or  digging  as  deeply  as  possible; 
then  cover  the  whole  with  a  liberal  dressing  of  well  rotted  farmyard 
manure,  and  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  bonemeal,  and  dig  over  again. 
In  this  plant  your  fruit  trees.  Should  your  soil  be  a  rich  loam  it  will 
be  well  adapted  for  the  small  fruits  as  well  as  Cherries  and  Apples, 
but  heavy  or  clayey  soils  will  produce  fine  Pears,  while  sandy  soil 
will  grow  luscious  Peaches.  A  careful  study  of  conditions  previous 
to  planting  will  save  a  large  amount  of  inconvenience,  labor,  expense 
and  regret  later  on.  Apple  and  Pear  trees  take  about  six  years  to 
come  into  bearing,  but  after  that  the  crop  increases  annually.  Prun- 
ing will  accelerate  fruit  production  to  a  large  extent,  and  providing  a 
good  selection  of  varieties  has  been  made,  it  is  possible  to  have  Apples 
nearly  every  month  in  the  year,  the  proper  facilities  being  available 
for  Winter  storage.  Good  cultivation  is  beneficial  to  the  growth  of 
fruit  in  general  and  liberal  treatment  will  increase  results. 

It  has  been  thought  unnecessary  to  include,  in  a  book  of  this 
nature,  a  large  number  of  varieties,  but  [rather  to  give  the  names  of 
kinds  that  have  been  proved  of  real  merit^and  while  those^men- 

^ 


132  GARDEN  GUIDE 

tioned  are  not  all  of  the  good  ones,  they  have  been  selected  for  their 
superiority  in  vigor  and  production. 

These  do  best  in  a  rich,  loamy,  well  drained  soil,  in  a  position 
preferably  facing  the  east  or  southeast.  This  situation  protects  the 
trees  from  north  and  west  winds  and  retards  blooming  in  Spring, 
thereby  often  preventing  the  destruction  of  the  blossom  by  late  Spring 
frosts  and  the  consequent  failure  of  the  crop.  In 
APPLES  planting,  select  a  three-year-old  tree,  which  can  be 
procured  at  any  reliable  nursery,  and  insist  on  this 
being  true  -  to  name,  because  a  mistake  at  this  point  means 
years  of  disappointment.  Nothing  is  more  annoying  than  to  find, 
after  a  period  of  six  years,  that  the  Red  Astrachan  you  planted 
turns  out  to  be  some  other  variety,  which  upsets  your  plan  of  suc- 
cession of  fruiting.  Do  not  make  the  usual  mistake  of  planting  your 
tree  in  a  small  hole,  or  planting  too  deeply,  but  be  liberal  in  all  your 
treatment  and  your  tree  will  respond  accordingly.  Prune  all  broken 
and  damaged  roots,  and  after  spreading  the  remaining  roots  evenly 
in  the  hole,  cover  with  fine  earth  and  give  the  tree  a  slight  shake. 
Allow  the  earth  to  sift  down  among  the  fine  roots,  then  put  on  more 
soil  and  tread  in  firmly,  finish  filling  the  hole,  and  put  on  a  generous 
mulching  to  keep  the  soil  about  the  tree  moist,  for  upon  this  mulching 
often  depends  the  life  of  the  tree.  After  the  tree  is  firmly  planted, 
prune  in  the  head  to  five  or  six  branches  and  reduce  these  to  half 
their  original  length.  Attach  a  label  to  the  tree  and  it  is  ready  to 
take  a  permanent  place  in  the  garden. 

During  its  first  season  of  growth  all  superfluous  shoots  should 
be  cut  out,  keeping  in  mind  the  future  form  of  the  mature  tree.  The 
second  season  the  previous  year's  growth  should  be  cut  back  about 
hah0,  and  after  this  the  tree  will  usually  need  only  thinning  out  the 
centre  and  such  shoots  as  cross  each  other,  to  secure  abundance  of 
light  and  sunshine.  The  shoots  which  come  out  of  the  stem  should 
be  rubbed  off  as  they  appear.  This  treatment  applies  to  standards, 
which  should  be  planted  at  least  twenty-five  feet  apart,  but  in  a  small 
garden  trees  known  as  pyramids,  cordons,  and  espaliers  may  be  grown 
with  success.  These  can  be  purchased  in  that  form,  and  are  used  for 
covering  arches  or  for  growing  against  buildings,  walls  or  fences. 
They  have  the  advantage  of  producing  fruit  quicker  than  standards 
and  in  taking  less  space  in  which  to  grow,  a  consideration  where  room 
s  limited.  Pyramids  could  be  planted  in  a  row  ten  feet  apart, 
cordons  three  feet  apart  against  a  wall  or  to  form  an  arch  over  a  walk, 
and  espaliers  along  each  side  of  a  walk  or  against  a  wall  or  building, 
thus  making  the  most  of  restricted  space.  Their  pruning  is  more 


FRUIT  FOR  THE  SMALL  GARDEN 


133 


severe  and  may  be  done  in  July  and  in  Spring,  the  production  of  fruit 
bearing  spurs  being  the  end  in  view. 

The  prevention  of  San  Jose  scale  is  necessary  to  success,  and  a 
spraying  with  any  good  insecticide  sold  for  that  purpose  must  be 
given  while  the  trees  are  dormant  in  Spring;  lime  and  sulphur  mix- 


Typical  half  standard  Apple  tree  suitable  for  the  amateur'u 
garden 

ture  treatment  is  very  good.  Then  the  familiar  codlin  moth  has  to 
be  dealt  with.  Arsenate  of  lead,  three  pounds  to  fifty  gallons  of 
water,  sprayed  through  a  fine  nozzle,  has  proved  the  very  best  treat- 
ment for  this  pest,  but  many  egg  clusters  can  be  gathered  from  the 
trees  if  carefully  scrutinized  while  pruning.  The  trees  should  be 
"sprayed  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  blossoms  fall,  the  object  being  to 


134  GARDEN  GUIDE 

get  some  of  the  insecticide  into  the  calyx  before  it  closes  up  tight,  or 
the  fruit  turns  downward. 

Another  spraying  is  necessary  for  fungous  growth  on  the  fruit. 
This  should  be  done  with  arsenate  of  lead  as  soon  as  possible  after  the 
woolly  down  begins  to  come  off  the  young  fruit.  No  particular  time 
can  be  stated,  as  in  different  localities  the  season  varies,  but  by  taking 
notice  of  the  condition  of  the  fruit,  no  mistake  can  be  made.  If 
green  or  black  aphis  appear  on  the  growth  of  the  young  trees,  spraying 
with  what  is  known  as  "  Black  Leaf  40  "  is  the  best  remedy.  It  is  a 
preparation  of  nicotine  in  a  concentrated  form,  and  should  be  used 
according  to  directions  supplied  with  each  can. 

Apples  are  seldom  propagated  'except  in  nurseries,  where  large 
quantities  are  raised  from  seed  and  the  many  varieties  in  demand 
are  then  grafted  on  these  seedlings  while  they  are  quite  small.  Graft- 
ing is  sometimes  practised  in  gardens  for  introducing  a  new  variety 
on  an  old  or  objectionable  kind. 

In  giving  a  list  of  varieties,  due  attention  has  been  paid  to  sorts 
designed  to  keep  the  family  supplied  for  a  greater  part  of  the  year: 
EARLY  HARVEST.    Fruit  pale  yellow,  tender  and  good.    Bears  early. 

Late  July  and  August. 
RED  ASTRACHAN.    Fruit  largely  covered  with  light  and  dark  red.    A 

good  early,  and  bears  young.    August  and  September. 
SWEET  BOUGH.     Fruit  greenish   yellow.    The  best  early   culinary 

variety.    August  and  September. 
YELLOW  TRANSPARENT.    Fruit  clear  yellow;  tender,  juicy,  with  a 

pleasant  flavor.    July  and  August. 
DUCHESS  OF  OLDENEURGH.     Fruit  red  striped,  crisp,  tender,  juicy, 

aromatic.   A  good  culinary  variety.    Late  August  and  September. 
GRAVENSTEIN.    Fruit  yellow  striped,  good  size,  attractive  appear- 
ance, excellent  quality.    September  to  November. 
TOLMAN'S  SWEETING.    Fruit  pale  yellow,  decidedly  sweet.    A  good 

dessert  Apple.    November  to  January. 
MAIDEN'S  BLUSH.    Fruit  lemon  yellow  with  crimson  cheek;  very 

attractive.     September  to  November. 
SUTTON  BEAUTY.    Fruit  attractive,  red,  fine  grained,  crisp.    A  good 

dessert  Apple.    November  to  March. 
RHODE  ISLAND  GREENING.    Fruit  green.    The  very  best  culinary 

Apple.    October  to  March. 

BALDWIN.  Fruit  red.  The  well-known  Winter  Apple.  October  to  May. 
NORTHERN  SPY.    Fruit  splashed  with  red;  very  crisp;  of  fine  flavor. 

December  to  June. 

WAGENER.     Fruit  red,  large,  subacid.    An  Apple  of  superior  excel- 
lence.    October  to  March. 


FRUIT  FOR  THE  SMALL  GARDEN 


135 


136  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Successful  Pear  culture  is  only  practicable  where  the  condition 
of  the  soil  permits  a  free  growth  of  wood.  The  trees  may  be  planted 
closer  together  than  in  the  case  of  Apples,  because  the  tendency  of 
the  Pear  tree  is  to  grow  tall  rather  than  to  spread  out.  Where  an 
Apple  orchard  is  planted,  Pear  trees  may  be  planted  be- 
PEARS  tween  the  rows  until  the  Apple  trees  require  the  room, 
when  they  should  be  cut  out  rather  than  encroach  upon 
the  room  allowed  for  the  Apple  trees.  Pears  come  into  bearing  much 
quicker  than  Apples,  and  the  trees  never  assume  large  proportions. 
It  is  well  to  bear  this  in  mind  when  planting,  but  a  small  Pear  tree 
will  produce  liberally,  and  a  careful  selection  of  varieties  will  give  a 
long  season  of  fruit.  Pears  delight  in  a  heavy  soil,  and  as  they  bloom 
early  in  the  season  a  sheltered  position  should  be  selected  where  some 
protection  may  be  had  from  a  windbreak  of  tall  evergreens  or  group 
of  buildings,  or  from  the  natural  formation  of  the  place  chosen,  such 
as  the  shelter  afforded  by  a  hill.  The  trees  should  be  planted  on  the 
eastern  slope  when  many  are  to  be  grown,  but  in  the  small  garden 
pyramids  or  espaliers  should  be  used.  These  give  the  best  results, 
yielding  a  large  amount  of  fruit  in  a  restricted  space.  Pears  respond 
to  good  cultivation  and  will  stand  closer  pruning  than  Apples.  The 
tall  growing  varieties  should  have  the  heads  cut  hard  to  prevent  the 
trees  reaching  too  great  a  height,  which  makes  the  gathering  of  the 
fruit  difficult.  It  is  good  policy,  therefore,  to  keep  the  trees  low  and 
bushy.  Pears  make  spurs  freely,  and  in  pruning,  this  fact  should  be 
held  in  mind.  Encourage  a  free,  open,  branching  habit,  and  prune 
to  clothe  the  branches  with  fruit  bearing  spurs,  cutting  out  all  super- 
fluous growth  at  the  Spring  pruning. 

Probably  the  worst  enemy  of  the  Pear  is  rust  and  fungus,  an 
attack  of  which  causes  the  fruit  to  grow  deformed  and  unsightly.  A 
frequent  spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead,  three  pounds  to  fifty  gallons 
of  water,  will  keep  the  foliage  and  fruit  in  good  condition.  This 
should  be  applied  immediately  after  the  blossoms  fall,  and  again  about 
three  weeks  later,  and  should  any  sign  of  fungous  growth  appear  later, 
another  spraying  should  be  given  to  insure  good  looking  fruit  and  a 
clean,  healthy  growth  to  the  trees. 

Pears  are  usually  grafted,  and  trees  can  be  purchased  much  more 
cheaply  than  they  can  be  grown  to  a  fruiting  age. 

The  following  tried  and  popular  varieties  will  prove  a  valuable 
addition  to  the  garden: 
GLAPP'S  FAVORITE.    Large,  pale^yellow;  flesh  fine,  juicy  and  buttery. 

August. 

BARTLETT.    A  very'popular  variety;  large,  shapely,  melting;  luscious 
flavor.    September. 


FRUIT  FOR  THE  SMALL  GARDEN  137 

SECKEL.    Fruit  small  but  very  sweet  and  melting.    One  of  the  best. 
KIEFFER.    Large;  golden  yellow  when  ripe;  juicy,  with  Quince  flavor. 

October  and  November. 
SHELDON.    Large,  russet  and  red;  aromatic  flavor;  rich  and  delicious. 

October  and  November. 
BEURRE  d'ANJOu.    Large  and  handsome;  flesh  melting,  extra  fine. 

November. 

Pears  should  be  gathered  as  soon  as  the  seeds  are  black,  and 
stored  in  a  dry,  airy  room  until  fit  for  use. 

No  garden  is  complete  without  a  few  Plums,  so  useful  for  table 

and  culinary  purposes.    The  Japanese  Plums  are  wonderful  bearers,  and 

produce*  annually  large  quantities  of  fruit.    Their  abundance  makes 

it  necessary  to  thin  out  the  fruit  to  prevent  rotting  in  clusters  on 

the  branches.    Plums  are  not  particular  as  to  soil,  as 

PLUMS      their  roots  spread  so  much  nearer  the  surface  than 

Apples  or  Pears,  and  any  fairly  good  loamy  soil  that 

is  well  drained  will  produce  fine  fruit,  but  cultivating  around  the 

trees  is  very  beneficial.    Plant  early  in  the  Fall;  be  liberal  with  the 

spade,  make  large  holes,  spread  the  roots  out  evenly,  and  plant  firmly. 

Plums  should  not  be  pruned  except  for  conserving  the  "shape  of 
the  trees,  particularly  the  Japanese  varieties,  which  usually  grow 
very  strong  the  first  season,  and  pruning  back  is  a  temptation,  but 
if  pruned  they  only  produce  another  strong  growth.  If  left  alone 
they  will  form  fruit  buds  all  along  these  strong  growths  and  so  check 
excessive  vigor.  Plums  are  the  earliest  fruits  to  flower,  and  a  shel- 
tered position  should  be  given  them,  or  plant  them  on  a  northern 
exposure  where  the  buds  will  be  retarded  until  danger  of  freezing  is 
past.  Spraying,  to  be  effective,  should  be  done  very  early,  and  again 
as  soon  as  the  blossoms  fall,  because  the  fruit  is  eaten  without  removing 
the  skin.  Plums  intended  for  the  table  should  be  allowed  to  ripen 
fully  on  the  tree,  but  for  preserving  and  culinary  purposes  they  may 
be  gathered  earlier.  Should  Plums  insist  on  making  a  strong,  rank 
growth,  the  best  remedy  is  root  pruning.  Lift  the  trees  in  the  Fall 
and  shorten  back  all  strong  roots,  keeping  the  roots  exposed  as  short 
a  time  as  is  possible  to  complete  the  work. 

Some  Plums  can  be  raised  successfully  from  seed,  the  Greengage 
being  one  of  these;  but  they  are  usually  budded  or  grafted  on  the 
wild  Plum  stock. 

The  curculio  is  the  worst  pest  we  have  to  deal  with,  and  the 
only  way  to  fight  this  insect  is  to  gather  up  all  the  fruit  which  falls 
prematurely  and  burn  it,  as  in  these  fallen  fruit  the  larvae  remain 
until  full  grown,  when  they  eat  their  way  out  and  enter  the  ground, 


138 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


FRUIT  FOR  THE  SMALL  GARDEN  139 

where  they  change  into  the  pupa  state.    The  full  grown  beetle  emerges 

in  about  four  weeks  and  hides  under  the  bark  of  the  tree  or  some  other 

protection  until  Spring  business  opens  up. 

Another  insect  which  sometimes  causes  trouble  is  aphis.  Spraying 

with  a  nicotine  solution  will  destroy  this  pest,  or  the  tops  of  the 

young  infested  growths  can  be  cut  off. 

Some  of  the  very  choicest  Plums  for  eating  are: 

OULLIN'S  GOLDEN  GAGE.    Large,  delicious  flavor.    August. 

TRANSPARENT  GAGE.    Very  large,  round,  juicy  and  rich.    July. 

GREENGAGE.    Medium  size,  round,  green,  rich.    August. 

GOE'S  GOLDEN  DROP.    Very  large,  golden  yellow,  rich  flavor.    Sep- 
tember. 

VICTORIA.    Large,  oval,  red.    Useful  for  every  purpose.        August. 

MAGNUM  BONUM.    Large,  red.    Good  culinary  variety.    September. 
For  culinary  purposes:  ABUNDANCE,  BURBANK,  RED  JUNE,  SAT- 

SUMA  and  WICKSON. 

To  those  in  the  warmer  parts  of  the  country  where  the  Winters 

are  not  too  severe,  a  few  Peach  trees  will  add  much  to  the  revenue 

of  the  garden,  and  who  does  not  like  Peaches?    They  can  be  served 

in  so  many  appetizing  ways.    The  Peach  is  not  a  long-lived   tree, 

and  will  not  produce  profitably  for  more  than  five  or 

PEACHES      six  years.    After  the  fruit  begins  to  get  small,  new 

trees  had  much  better  be  planted. 

Peaches  thrive  in  a  light,  well  drained  soil,  and  preference  should 
be  given  to  a  northern  aspect,  as  this  tends  to  retard  the  date  of 
flowering  and  prevent  a  total  loss  of  the  crop  which  would 
result  if  subjected  to  a  freezing  temperature  while  the  trees  are  in 
bloom.  At  best  Peaches  are  a  precarious  crop  unless  well  protected 
from  cutting  winds.  During  Winter,  if  the  temperature  falls  to  ten 
degrees  below  zero,  the  blossom  buds  will  generally  be  killed  although 
in  a  dormant  state,  and  no  fruit  can  be  expected  under  such  conditions. 
Peach  trees  come  into  bearing  early,  and  for  this  reason  young  plants 
should  be  selected  for  planting,  and  careful  attention  given  to  pruning 
to  get  the  tree  into  shape. 

Early  Fall  is  the  best  time  to  plant,  as  the  trees  have  a  chance 
to  get  rooted  a  little  before  the  ground  becomes  severely  frozen.  The 
roots  being  very  fine,  the  trees  should  be  planted  as  near  the  surface 
as  consistent  with  firm  and  secure  planting,  and  a  stake  put  at  each 
tree,  if  necessary,  to  prevent  its  moving.  Peaches  like  the  ground 
around  them  cultivated,  and  much  better  fruit  will  result. 

They  require  little  pruning  except  to  cut  back  strong  growths, 
and  to  thin  out  if  the  branches  become  too  crowded.  Dwarf  standards 


140  GARDEN  GUIDE 

are  preferable,  but  in  small  gardens  trees  can  be  trained  against  a 
building  or  on  a  fence.  Under  this  method  of  culture  they  produce 
fine  fruit,  and  ripening  is  assured  in  unfavorable  seasons. 

A  spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead  will  check  any  tendency  of 
fungous  growth  if  done  while  the  leaves  are  quite  small;  if  done  after 
the  fruit  gains  size  the  woolly  down  which  covers  it  holds  the  spraying 
solution  and  may  cause  some  disfigurement.  Aphids  usually  attack 
the  young  leaves  and  if  planted  against  a  wall  frequent  severe  syring- 
ing with  force  enough  to  dislodge  the  insects  will  keep  them  in  check. 
A  solution  of  nicotine  may  be  used  effectively  against  this  black  aphis, 
but  is  almost  sure  to  leave  a  stain  on  the  fruit  and  should  not  be 
applied  in  any  case  after  the  fruit  is  half  grown. 

Early  varieties  are  the  best  to  plant  as  the  season  is  none  too 
long  for  the  maturing  of  the  fruit. 

New  varieties  are  raised  from  seed  and  their  perpetuation  is 
secured  by  budding.  This  is  done  when  the  stock  is  quite  small  and 
usually  close  down  to  the  ground. 

The  best  kinds  are  those  which  are  known  to  do  well  in  par- 
ticular localities,  but  those  named  are  known  to  be  generally  good, 
and  can  be  safely  recommended,  and  are  all  freestone  varieties: 

ALEXANDER.    Medium  size,  white  flesh,  rich  flavor.    July. 

BELLE  OF  GEORGIA.    Large,  showy,  red  cheek;  flesh  white,  firm  and 

sweet.    August.  , 

EARLY   CRAWFORD.    Large,   yellow,   of  good  quality.    Early   Sept. 
HALE'S  EARLY.    Melting  and  rich  flavor.    August. 
ELBERTA.    Large,  yellow  with  red  cheek;  of  fine  quality.    September. 
CHAMPION.    Very  large,  white  flesh;  very  productive.    August. 

Nearly  everybody  likes  Grapes,  particularly  the  children,  and  a 
garden  is  incomplete  without  them.  Grape  vines  can  be  used  to 
cover  unsightly  objects  in  the  garden,  or  about  the  grounds,  as  well 
as  on  arbors,  well  shelters,  pergolas,  fences,  or  along  walks,  or  to 

cover  walks  through  the  garden,  and  still  be  made 
GRAPES  productive.  The  quality  of  Grapes  depends  largely 

upon  the  attention  they  receive.  Grapes  delight  in 
a  rich  soil,  and  should  be  planted  about  six  feet  apart  and  ten  feet 
between  the  rows.  They  are  best  planted  early  in  the  Fall,  and  hi 
Spring  should  be  securely  tied  up,  and  as  soon  as  growth  commences 
each  shoot  should  be  carefully  tied  on  a  separate  wire  and  allowed  to 
run  as  far  as  it  will,  and  removing  such  as  are  not  wanted.  Pinch 
off  all  secondary  growths  or  off-shoots  as  they  appear.  The  next 
season  fruit  growth  will  come  from  every  joint  of  these  old  growths, 
and  these  should  be  pinched  at  the  second  leaf  beyond  the  cluster  of 


FRUIT  FOR  THE  SMALL  GARDEN 


141 


fruit.  Continue  this  practice  through  the  growing  season.  Each 
bunch  can  be  tied  to  the  main  shoot  and  the  fruit  will  hang  between 
the  wires. 

In  December  or  January  the  vines  should  be  pruned  back  to 
one  good  eye  next  to  the  main  shoot,  and  from  this  eye  comes  your 
next  growth  which  will  produce  fruit.  After  pruning,  the  canes  should 
be  securely  tied  in  place  for  the  next  season.  Vines  are  not  very 
frequently  attacked  by  insects  or  fungous  diseases,  mildew  being  the 
principal  offender.  This  can  be  checked  by  an  application  of  sulphuric 
acid  as  recommended  for  Gooseberries  (which  see). 

Grapes  are  propagated  by  cuttings  taken  from  the  ripened 
growths,  cut  into  pieces  and  inserted  in  sand  or  soil,  where  they  soon 
root. 


The  Kieffen  and  Chatauqua  systems  of  pruning  Grapevines,  which  are  fully 
explained  in  the  chapter  on  Pruning.    See  page  190 

The  -following  varieties  are  all  good,  but  each  locality  has  its 
favorite  sorts: 

Black. — CONCORD,  MOORE'S  EARLY,  CAMPBELL'S  EARLY 
Red. — CATAWBA,  DELAWARE,  LUCILE. 
White. — GREEN  MOUNTAIN,  NIAGARA,  MOORE'S  DIAMOND. 

No  garden  is  complete  without  Strawberries,  and  as  they  are  so 
easily  grown,  no  garden  should  be  without  them.  What  is  nicer  than 
a  dish  of  Strawberries  picked  fresh  from  your  own  garden?  Straw- 
berries like  a  rich  soil,  and  well  repay  a  very  liberal  application  of 
fertilizer.  The  best  time  to  plant  a  bed 

STRAWBERRIES  is  in  September,  when  the  young  plants 
are  just  ready.  Select  an  open  piece  of 

ground  away  from  tall  trees  or  shrubs;  dig  in  a  liberal  dressing  of 
well  rotted  farmyard  manure,  with  a  sprinkling  of  bonemeal,  and  in 
this  plant  your  Strawberries  one  foot  apart  in  the  rows  and  two  feet 
between  the  rows. 

After  the  first  hard  frost  throw  over  them  some  light  protection — 
straw,  old  hay  or  anything  that  will  not  be  liable  to  pack  down  on  the 


142 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


plants  too  tightly.  The  object  of  this  covering  is  not  to  keep  the 
plants  from  the  cold,  but  to  protect  them  from  the  sun,  which  causes 
more  failures  than  the  cold.  This  covering  should  be  removed  after 
Spring  opens  up,  but  not  too  early,  as  a  little  growth  may  have  al- 
ready started,  and  if  exposed  to  a  late  frost  may  cause  much  injury. 
The  plants,  which  will  have  become  loose  by  the  action  of  the  frost, 
should  be  gone  over  and  firmly  pressed  into  place,  the  beds  lightly 
forked  to  prevent  the  growth  of  weeds,  and  when  they  are  in  bloom, 
some  straw  or  salt  hay  should  be  placed  around  and  between  the 
plants  to  prevent  the  soil  from  splashing  on  the  ripe  fruit. 

To  lengthen  the 
season  of  fruit- 
ing, the  first  blos- 
soms  may  be 
picked  from  some 
of  the  plants,  and 
these  will  fruit 
about  three  weeks 
later.  Strawberries 
are  sexual  and  bi- 
sexual, that  is  to 
say,  in  some  the 
flowers  have  pollen 
To  insure  fruiting  it 
unless  the  bi-sexual 


The  Marshall  Strawberry 


and  seed  organs,  in  others  only  one  set  of  these. 

is   necessary    to   plant   some   of   each   kind, 

varieties  alone  are  selected.    A  bed  once  planted  is  good  for  at  least 

three  years,  when  'it  should  be  renewed. 

All  runners  should  be  cut  away  annually  as  soon  as  the  fruiting 
season  is  past,  unless  some  are  wanted  to  make  a  new  bed,  in  which 
case  the  strongest  plants  should  be  left  until  wanted  and  the  runner 
should  be  stopped  at  the  first  strong  plant  to  accelerate  rooting. 

Strawberries,  fortunately,  are  not  troubled  with  many  insect 
pests  or  fungus' diseases,  and  then*  propagation  by  runners  is  very 
simple,  as  they  root  freely  of  their  own  accord  and  can  be  cut  off  and 
planted  where  they  are  to  remain. 

There  are  many  fine  varieties  and  their  selection  is  largely  a 
matter  of  preference.  The  following  are  bi-sexual  and  are  all  good, 
tested  sorts: 

Early. — CLYDE,  MARSHALL,  BEDERWOOD. 

Midseason. — ABINGTON,  McKiNLEY,  SHARPLESS,  NICK  OHMER. 

Late. — COMMONWEALTH,  GANDY,  BRAND YWINE. 

Autumn  or  Perpetual.— AMERICUS,  PROGRESSIVE.  These  have  small  fruit. 


FRUIT  FOR  THE  SMALL  GARDEN 


143 


Currants  are  used  principally  for  culinary  purposes,  and  unless 
wanted  for  preserving,  a  few  plants  will  generally  be  sufficient  for 
ordinary  use.  The  red  and  white  varieties  are  the  ones  usually  grown, 
but  some  like  the  black,  and  a  few  plants  could  be  included  if  room 
can  be  spared.  The  reds  are  the  most  popular. 


Standard    (or    tree)    Red  Currant.     This  form  of  bush 

has     special     merits,     being    ornamental     as    well     as 

utilitarian 

Any  soil  of  a  medium  rich  nature  will  grow  good 
CURRANTS  Currants  and  they  are  not  particular  as  to  situa- 
tion. They  prefer  a  light,  open  space  preferably 
to  one  that  is  shaded  by  trees.  They  may  be  planted  in  Spring  or 
Fall,  and  must  be  attended  to  in  the  matter  of  pruning  to  insure  a  good 
crop  of  fruit  annually.  All  young  shoots  should  be  pruned  back 
about  half,  and  only  a  few  left  to  form  the  bush,  care  being  taken 
annually  to  remove  all  young  growth  which  springs  from  the  base  of 
the  bushes,  otherwise  they  will  get  too  thick  and  small  fruit  will  result. 


144 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Pruning  Currant  shoots 
1,  Twig  should  be  cut 
back  to  bud  as  shown  in 
Fig.  3.  No.  2  shows  torn 
snag 


If  planted  four  feet  apart  they  will  soon 
grow  up  and  fill  the  space  between  each 
plant. 

The  Currant  worm  is  one  of  the  worst 
pests  we  have  to  deal  with.  Powdered 
hellebore  dusted  on  the  plants  is  a  good 
remedy,  but  they  should  be  watched  for 
carefully  as  soon  as  the  foliage  appears,  and 
kept  destroyed  until  the  foliage  becomes  hard. 
There  is  some  danger  in  using  a  liquid  in- 
secticide because  the  fruit  is  small  and  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  wash  off  all  traces  of 
poison. 

Currants  are  usually  propagated,  from 

cuttings  made  of  the  ripened  shoots,  and  root  quite  freely  if  put 
in  during  the  Fall.  The  best  varieties  are: 

Red. — FAY'S  PROLIFIC,  sweet,  large  and  very  productive.  CHERRY, 
large  and  very  prolific.  POMONA,  a  new  variety;  keeps  long 
after  getting  ripe. 

Black. — CHAMPION.    Berries  large  and  of  good  quality. 

White. — BAR-LE-DUC,  WHITE  GRAPE. 

This  luscious  fruit  is  not  much  grown,  but  serves  a  purpose  as  a 

culinary  fruit.      It  makes  a  good    subject    for   planting  between 

plots,  as  a  fence,  or  along  walks,  as  it  can  be  pruned  hard  and  kept 

within  limits,  trained  on  a  wire  fence  for  support.    Planting  may  be 

done  in  the  Fall  and  a  crop  of  fruit  can 

GOOSEBERRIES     be  had  the  first  year.   Very   little   prun- 
ing is  required,  as  the  plants  usually  grow 

short  jointed  wood,  and  keeping  the  plants  thinned  out  so  that  the 
fruit  may  have  exposure  to  the  sun  and  air  is  all  the  pruning  necessary. 
Like  Currants,  the  Gooseberry  is  subject  to  the  attack  of  worms 
(caterpillars),  which  soon  denude  the  plants  of  foliage  and  make  them 
unsightly,  as  well  as  preventing  the  proper  maturity  of  the  fruit. 
Dusting  with  powdered  hellebore  is  one  of  the  best  remedies  and 
should  be  applied  as  a  preventive  as  soon  as  the  foliage  expands. 
Mildew  often  attacks  the  Gooseberry  and  causes  trouble,  but  spraying 
with  a  solution  of  sulphuric  acid,  one  part  to  one  thousand  parts  of 
water,  will  control  this  disease.  It  may  be  borne  in  mind  that  eight 
teaspoonfuls  make  one  fluid  ounce,  16  ozs.  make  a  pint,  and  there  are 
eight  pints  in  a  gallon.  A  teaspoonful  of  sulphuric  acid  to  a  gallon  of 
water  is  therefore  a  safe  amount. 


FRUIT  FOR  THE  SMALL  GARDEN  145 

Propagation  of  the  Gooseberry  is  done  by  cuttings  of  the  ripened 
shoots.    The  following  varieties  are  each  -good:1 
DOWNING.    Large,  pale  green,  soft  and  juicy;  quite  prolific. 
INDUSTRY.    Large,  dark  red;  good  cropper. 
RED  JACKET.    Large,  red,  good  flavor. 
WHITE  LION.    One  of  the  finest. 

The  popular  Raspberry  is  always  welcome  in  the  home,  and 
it  is  only  when  freshly  gathered  that  it  has  that  lovely  flavor  peculiar 
to  this  fruit  and  which  makes  it  so  desirable  in  the  home  garden. 


Experiment  Station  University  Tennessee 

A  simple,  durable  and  efficient  barrel  sprayer 

Raspberries  must  be  handled  with  the  greatest  care  or  the  fruit  will 
become  bruised  and  soon  ferment.  Small  bas- 

RASPBERRIES  kets  should  be  used  when  picking,  to  prevent 
excessive  weight,  which  invariably  crushes  the 
tender  berries,  and  they  soon  become  unfit  for  use. 

The  plants  are  not  particular  about  the  kind  of  soil  they  grow  in, 
nor  the  location.  They  grow  best  hi  a  good,  rich,  well  drained,  loamy, 
cultivated  garden  soil,  and  should  be  planted  in  rows  two  feet  apart 
and  four  feet  between  the  rows.  They  are  best  tied  to  a  wire  trellis 
for  support  and  to  facilitate  ease  in  gathering  the  fruit. 

The  young  growths  which  spring  from  the  base  of  the  plants, 
should  be  thinned  out  to  four  or  five,  and  after  the  season's  fruit  is 
over,  the  old  fruited  wood  should  be  cut  out  close  to  the  ground,  and 


146  GARDENIGUIDE 

the  young  shoots  given  every  chance  to  ripen  before  Winter  sets  in, 
when  they  may  be  tied  together  in  bunches  of  five  or  six  canes  and  left 
hi  this  way  until  Spring,  when  they  must  be  tied  to  the  wires  and 
trimmed  evenly  along  the  top  to  make  them  look  neat. 

Raspberries  are  not  subject  to  much  trouble  from  insects  or 
diseases. 

They  are  propagated  by  division  of  the  roots  or  from  cuttings, 
which  should  be  taken  from  the  ripened  shoots  and  inserted  in  the 
ground  in  September,  and  will  commence  to  grow  the  following  Spring. 

There  are  red,  yellow  and  black  Raspberries,  but  the  red  varieties 
are  the  most  popular.    A  few  well  tried  varieties  follow: 
GUTHBERT.      Red,  large  and  sweet ;  the  most  popular  of  all  Raspberries  • 
RRANDYWINE.    A  large,  bright  red  berry;  a  good  cropper. 
GOLDEN  QUEEN.    Large,  amber  color;  fine  quality. 
CUMBERLAND.    Very  large,  black,  glossy  berries,  juicy  and  sweet. 

The  culture  of  Blackberries  is  similar  to  the  directions  given  for 
Raspberries.    They  grow  stronger,  however, 

BLACKBERRIES     and  require  more  room,  and  owing  to  their 
sharp  thorns  they  are  not  so  desirable  in  the 

small  garden.    ISome  object  to  the  many   seeds  they  contain,  par- 
ticularly if  grown  on  poor  soil,  but  a  few  varieties  are  almost  seedless: 
TAYLOR.    Without  core  and  one  of  the  best. 
ERIE.    Of  very  good  quality. 
ICEBERG.    Produces  white  berries  of  a  good  flavor. 

A  few  plants  of  the  Loganberry  may  be  grown  as   a   useful 
novelty.    The  fruit  has  a  very  flat  taste,  but 

LOGANBERRY      looks  very  pretty  as  a  dessert,   on  the  table. 
There  should  be  no  reason  why  this  easily 

cultivated  fruit,  which  was  raised  by  a  Judge  Logan  in  California, 
should  not  be  tried  in  many  gardens.  In  England  it  has  become  a 
general  favorite.  Its  treatment  in  alf  respects  is  similar  to  that  of 
the  Raspberry. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

The  Vegetable   Garden 

NO  matter  how  small  the  place,  none  is  complete  without  its  own 
vegetable  garden  to  furnish  the  home  table.^  In  some  instances, 
a  vegetable  garden  is  objected  to  on  the  ground  that  it  inter- 
feres with  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding  effects.  But  the  latter  can  be 
made  to  fit  in  with  the  general  scheme.  A  well-planned  and  neatly- 
kept  vegetable  garden  need  never  detract  from  the  general  appearance 
of  the  place;  usually  it  is  a  decidedly  attractive  feature;  it  lends  an  air 
of  simplicity  and  "hominess"  which  flowers  alone  cannot  furnish.  On  a 
"dollars  and  cents"  basis  alone,  in  these  days  of  high  prices,  the  vege- 
table garden  is,  or  can  almost  always  be  made,  a  paying  factor.  Even 
where  that  side  of  the  matter  is  to  be  disputed  there  is  no  question 
that  to  get  the  very  best  quality  of  vegetables  you  must  grow  your  own. 

The  commercial  grower  must  be  guided  in  his  choice  of  varieties 
by  the  market  demands,  and  by  the  factor  of  big  yields,  even  though 
the  varieties  which  meet  these  requirements  may  not  be  those  of  the 
best  table  quality.  The  home  gardener,  on  the  other  hand,  may  select 
varieties  which  satisfy  his  own  personal  taste.  Furthermore,  there  are 
many  vegetables  which,  to  be  had  at  their  very  best,  must  be  gathered 
only  a  few  hours  before  they  are  used.  As  an  old  saying  has  it:  "The 
pot  should  be  boiling  before  you  pick  your  Corn." 

As  a  healthful  recreation,  nothing  surpasses  the  cultivation  of 
culinary  vegetables.  It  never  gets  monotonous,  for  the  work  changes 
from  day  to  day,  and  every  day  brings  its  own  problems.  The  work  in- 
volved may  be  made  as  mild  or  as  strenuous  as  is  desired.  If  one  fears 
that  not  enough  exercise  is  to  be  had  with  a  hoe,  a  few  hours'  "trench- 
ing" with  a  spade  will  give  him  as  big  an  appetite  for  his  dinner  as 
anything  he  can  find  to  do. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  hesitate  about  having  a  vegetable  garden 
because  such  a  location  as  you  may  have  available  is  not  naturally  the 
most  ideal  for  the  purpose.  The  plot  of  ground  which  cannot,  with  in- 
telligent preparation,  be  made  to  grow  successfully  practically  every 
one  of  the  garden  vegetables,  is  by  all  means  the  exception  and  not  the 
general  rule.  At  the  same  time  it  pays  well  to  take  advantage  of  any 
favorable  natural  conditions  that  may  be  atjhand.  The  best  soil  is 
what  is  termed  a  "sandy  loam,"  that  is,  a  good  clay  soil  in  which  there 
is  enough  material  of  a  sand-like  character  to  keep  it  friable  and  work- 

147 


148 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


able  at  all  times  of  the  year,  while  moisture  is  retained  by  it  for  a  long 
time.  If  you  have  only  a  heavy  clay  soil,  it  can  be  improved  by  adding 
sand,  wood  ashes,  sifted  coal  ashes,  lime  and  humus.  If  the  soil  is  light 
and  sandy,  heavy  loam  or  muck  added  to  it  will  improve  it,  and  humus 
will  also  be  very  beneficial. 

Drainage  is  one  of  the  most  important  factors.  If  your  garden 
spot  is  low  and  wet,  by  all  means  put  in  a  drain  tile  at  the  first  oppor- 
tunity. Deep  spading,  and  in  extreme  cases,  loosening  up  the  subsoil 
with  agricultural  blasting  powder,  will  tend  to  overcome  this  difficulty. 

If  the  garden  can  be  located  in  a  spot  where  it  is  protected  from 
prevailing  Winter  and  Spring  winds  the  earliness  of  the  crops  will  be 
advanced  very  noticeably.  A  good,  thick  hedge  of  Hemlock,  Spruce, 
or  Privet  to  the  north  and  west  of  the  garden,  if  it  is  not  naturally 
sheltered,  may  be  made  to  serve  the  double  purpose  of  providing  a 
wind  shield,  and  of  screening  it  from  other  parts  of  the  place. 

GROWING  PLANTS  FOR  SETTING  OUT.  If  you  utilize  your  frames 
to  advantage,  your  first  plantings  of  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Lettuce, 
Beets,  Onions,  Tomatoes,  Peppers,  Egg-plants,  Lima  Beans,  Corn, 
Cucumbers,  Melons  and  Squash  will  be  well  started  by  the  time  it  is 
warm  enough  to  plant  them  out  of  doors. 

If  you  have  only  coldframes,  a  few  plants  may  be  started  in  the 
house  in  a  warm,  sunny  window  to  be  put  into  the  frames  when  they 
are  large  enough  to  transplant. 

In  making  a  hotbed  begin  a  week  or  ten  days  before  you  expect  to 
make  your  first  sowing  of  seed.  Procure  horse  manure  that  has  not  yet 
fermented,  allowing  one-sixth  of  a  cord  to  each  sash  to  be  heated. 
Unless  the  manure  has  some  considerable  straw  or  bedding  mixed  in 
with  it,  it  will  be  better  to  add  one-fourth  of  leaves  to  the  manure  when 
it  is  piled  up.  Build  it  up  in  a  square  heap,  tramping  it  down  solidly  as 
it  is  built  After  three  or  four  days,  fork  it  over  and  restack,  putting 
what  was  the  outside  of  the  heap  in  the  center.  Sprinkle  with  water 
any  parts  of  it  that  may  seem  dry.  Fork  the  heap  over  again  within 
three  or  four  days.  In  this  way  the  whole  mass  may  be  made  to  fer- 
ment evenly,  and  will  be  in  just  the  right  shape  to  put  into  the  frames 


Box  for  the  transplanting  of  seedlings 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  149 

for  your  hotbeds.  Fork  out  the  old  soil  to  a  depth  of  from  four  to  six 
inches;  put  in  the  manure,  tramping  it  down  firmly  to  a  depth 
of  eighteen 'inches  or  so.  The  amount  of  manure  required  will  depend 
upon  the  climate  and  upon  how  early  in  the  Spring  the  bed  is  made. 
If  soil  that  i§  not  frozen  i$  available,  it  will  be  well  to  put  an  inch 
or  so  of  fresh  soil  on  top  of  the  old  in  which  to  sow  the  seeds.  Any 
soil  which  has  been  removed  should  be  put  back  on  top  of  the  manure 
and  thoroughly  fined  and  raked  level.  Then  put  on  the  sashes  and 


Small  vegetable  garden  on  suburban  lot,  with  neat  wire  fence  on  left  and 
wooden  pathway 

let  the  frames  stand  until  a  thermometer  hung  inside  recedes  to  a. 
temperature  of  70  deg.  to  80  deg.,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  the  first 
sowing  of  seed. 

DIGGING  AND  PREPARING  THE  SOIL.  With  the  soil  adequately  en- 
riched and  thoroughly  prepared,  success  is  half  won  before  you  begin. 
Insufficient  preparation,  no  matter  how  good  your  seeds  may  be,  will 
remain  a  drag  and  a  handicap  throughout  the  entire  season.  The  soil 
is  the  sole  source  of  nourishment  for  the  tremendous  development 
plants  will  have  to  make  through  the  comparatively  few  weeks  of  the 
growing  season.  All  their  food  is  absorbed  in  the  form  of  a  weak  solu- 
tion. We  have  already  spoken  of  the  necessity  for  thorough  drainage. 


150  GARDEN  GUIDE 

The  soil  must  also  be  well  pulverized.  It  pays,  therefore,  to  take  tune 
to  prepare,  just  as  thoroughly  as  you  possibly  can,  your  garden  soil, 
no  matter  how  impatient  you  may  be  to  get  at  the  more  interesting 
tasks  of  seed  sowing  and  planting. 

If  your  garden  plot  is  sufficiently  large  for  a  horse  or  team  to 
turn  in  plowing  will  be  much  cheaper  and  on  the  whole  much 
more  satisfactory.  Unless  your  soil  is  very  light  and  sandy,  it  will  pay 
to  plow  as  deeply  as  possible  without  digging  up  the  subsoil.  Get  all 
your  plowing  done  as  early  in  the  Spring  as  possible.  If  the  garden 
has  to  be  dug  by  spade,  you  will  have  to  watch  carefully  to  see  that 
the  job  is  done  thoroughly.  It  is  hard,  slow  work  and  nothing  is  to  be 
gained  by  trying  to  skimp  it.  The  garden  that  is  dug  shallow,  left 
lumpy  or  merely  fine  on  the  surface,  cannot  give  good  results.  Dig 
at  least  ten  to  twelve  inches  deep.  Manure  should  be  spread  evenly 
over  the  ground  before  spading.  It  is  usually  best  to  throw  the  first 
row  or  furrow  of  soil  out  entirely,  and  then  put  the  manure  from  the 
next  strip  on  the  bottom  of  the  furrow  dug  out,  proceeding  in  this 
manner  across  the  piece. 

When  planting  or  sowing  is  to  be  done  the  whole  plot  should  be 
raked  over.  It  may  be  that  only  a  small  part  of  it  will  be  wanted  for 
immediate  use  for  the  hardiest  seeds  or  plants,  but  if  it  is  all  given  the 
same  treatment  the  moisture  will  be  conserved.  It  pays  to  take  a 
good  deal  of  care  and  time  to  get  all  trash  and  stones  raked  up  and  re- 
moved before  you  think  of  getting  the  surface  ready  for  planting. 

For  practical  results  the  enriching  of  your  garden  can  be  accom- 
plished in  no  better  way  than  by  the  application  of  all  the  manure  you 
can  conveniently  get.  It  should  be  well  rotted  and  not  green  and 
lumpy.  Horse  and  cattle  manure  mixed  that  has  been  kept  under 
cover  and  has  thoroughly  fermented  but  not  "fire-fanged"  or  burned 
out,  is  the  best.  If  you  can  get  enough  of  this  to  spread  it  three  or  four 
inches  deep  all  over  your  garden,  you  will  have  the  foundation  for  big 
crops. 

Chicken  manure  is  particularly  powerful,  but  should  have  been 
kept  so  that  it  is  fine  and  dry,  and  not  stuck  together  in  a  pasty  mass. 
If  you  have  only  a  small  quantity,  it  is  wise  to  keep  it  just  for  use  in 
hills  and  for  transplanting  rather  than  to  spread  it  over  the  whole  gar- 
den. Sheep  manure,  like  chicken  manure,  is  very  high  in  nitrogen,  and 
should  be  used  in  the  same  way.  Within  recent  years  it  has  been  pos- 
sible to  purchase  cattle,  horse  and  sheep  manure  in  standardized,  pre- 
pared forms  which  are  dry  and  convenient  to  handle.  Where  yard 
manure  cannot  be  conveniently  obtained,  these  can  be  used. 

Because  it  has  been  increasingly  difficult  to  get  manures  in  suffi- 
cient quantities,  commercial  fertilizers  have  come  more  into  use.  As 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


151 


it  is  more  convenient,  the  small  gardener  usually  buys  his  fertilizer  in 
the* form  of  a  completely  mixed  preparation. 

It  will  be  well  to  have  on  hand,  however,  a  smalf  quantity  each  of 
fine  ground  bone,  guano  or  dried  blood.  These  are  all  quick  acting 
fertilizers  which  can  ie  used  in  hills  or  drills.  You  can  also  use 
all  the  wood  ashes  you  can  get.  Dustings  of  lime  are  also  helpful. 
Commercial  "humus"  or  prepared  decayed  vegetable  matter  is  inex- 
pensive and  will  prove  very  beneficial.  It  is  often  advertised. 


A  table  of  choice,  well-grown  vegetables,  properly  staged 

PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING.  The  operations  of  planting  and 
transplanting  are  two  at  which  the  gardener  must  become  expert  as 
soon  as  possible.  The  first  step  is  to  have  a  thoroughly  prepared  seed 
bed  or  planting  surface.  Have  the  soil  thoroughly  pulverized.  It  may 
then  be  left  until  ready  for  use.  Just  before  you  sow  or  plant,  tKe  sur- 
face should  again  be  gone  over  with  an  iron  rake.  Make  it  as  smooth 
and  fine  as  you  possibly  can. 

It  is  best  to  buy  seed  from  a  good,  reliable  seed  house  rather  than 
to  depend  upon  what  you  may  find  at  the  local  hardware  or  grocery 
store.  Small  seeds  such  as  Lettuce,  Radish  and  Onions  may  be 
merely  raked  into  the  surface;  medium  size  seeds,  such  as  Beets, 
Spinach  and  Parsnips,  from  one-quarter  to  one-half  inch  and  the  com- 
paratively large  seeds,  such  as  Cabbage,  Carrots  and  Pumpkins,  about 
one  inch  deep.  In  showery  weather  the  seeds  should  be  covered 
more  lightly  than  in  normal  conditions,  in  a  very  light  soil,  or 
in  hot,  dry  weather,  cover  more  deeply.  In  extra  early  sowings  of 
Peas,  put  the  seeds  in  a  little  deeper  but  not  much. 

As  a  general  guide,  sow  Onions,  (also  plant  Onion  sets )  smooth 
Peas,  early  Beets.  Radishes,  Spinach,  Turnips  and  Cabbage  just  as 


152 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked  in  the  Spring.  When  Peach  and 
Pear  trees  are  in  bloom,  the  medium  harfty  things,  including  Beets, 
Carrots,  Kohl  Rabi,  Lettuce,  wrinkled  Peas,  Parsnips,  Salsify,  To- 
matoes, Swiss  Chard  may  be  sown  and  also  Lettuce,  Cauliflowers, 
Beets  and  Onion  plants  from  the  cold  frames  may  be  set  out. 

When  the  Apple  trees  are  in  blossom,  sow  the  seeds  of  the  tenderest 
things — Beans,  Sweet  Corn,  Cucumbers,  Okra,  Melons,  Pumpkins  and 
Squash. 


Lettuce,  Beets,  Onions,  Carrots,  Peas  and  wire  netting  support  for  Peas 
garden  is  a  model  of  good  keeping 


This 


After  all  danger  from  late  frost  is  past,  set  out  growing  plants  of 
Tomatoes,  Peppers,  Egg-plants,  Pole  Beans,  Melons.  Cucumbers, 
Sweet  Corn  and  Okra. 

Poor  germination  results  are  often  due  to  the  fact  that  seeds  are 
loosely  covered  in  the  soil.  They  should  be  well  firmed  and  covered. 
Firming  can  generally  be  done  well  enough  with  the  back  of  the  hoe  or 
rake. 

For  neatness  make  every  row  straight,  using  your  garden  line  and 
reel  frequently.  Tag  every  row  as  soon  as  it  is  sown  or  planted,  mark- 
ing on  the  date  as  well  as  the  name  of  the  variety.  You  will  thus  be 
able  to  keep  track  of  the  time  required  for  the  different  varieties  to 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  153 

mature,  which  will  be  of  greater  value  to  you  in  succeeding  years. 

Transplanting  should  be  done  preferably  during  showery  weather, 
or  in  the  late  afternoon,  and  the  plants  will  take  hold  more  quickly.  If 
they  are  shaded  in  some  way  for  a  few  days,  especially  if  the  weather 
is  windy  and  sunny,  all  the  better.  An  irrigation  system  is  of  the 
greatest  benefit,  in  transplanting  or  planting,  as  the  work  can  be  done 
at  any  time  with  an  almost  positive  certainty  of  success.  In  all  trans- 
planting the  soil  ought  to  be  pressed  firmly. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  directly  in  the  soil,  but  usually  it  is  better  to 
sowjn  "flats"  or  seedjpans,  which  can  be  moved  about  from  one  sash 
tojanother  and  handled  more  conveniently  in  transplanting.  Small 
seeds  should  be  barely  covered  from  sight,  while  larger  ones  should  be 
covered  to  the  depthjnentioned  on  page  151.  It  is  important  to  press 
the  seed  firmly ^into^tKe  soil  when  sowing.  Tag  each  variety  care- 
fully and  water  with  a  fine  spray  so  as  not  to  wash  out  any  of  the  seeds. 

As  soon  as  the  little  seedlings  are  up  it  will  be  necessary  to  give 
some  fresh  ah-  every  day  or  two  to  keep  them  healthy  and  vigorous, 
the  temperature  being  kept  at  from  60  to  75  deg.  according  to  the 
things  being  grown.  As  soon  as  the  first  two  or  three  true  leaves- ap- 
pear, the  seedlings  should  be  transplanted,  either  into  other  "flats"  or 
into  the  frames,  setting  them  from  two  to  three  inches  apart  each  way 
so  they  will  have  plenty  of  room. 

During  this  season  watering  should  be  done  only  on  bright  morn- 
ings so  that  the  soil  will  have  a  chance  to  dry  off  before  night,  as  this 
will  lessen  the  danger  of  "damping  off."  Avoid  over-watering,  as  the 
soil  dries  out  very  slowly  when  the  sashes  have  to  be  kept  on  most  of 
the  time. 

Tomatoes,  Peppers  and  Egg-plants  should  be  transplanted  a 
second  time,  preferably  to  pots,  before  being  set  out  of  doors.  If  they 
have  been  given  plenty  of  room  at  the  first  shift  in  the  frames  or  flats, 
they  can  be  put  into  three  and  a  hah"  or  four-inch  pots,  and  be  in 
bud  and  blossom  when  set  into  the  garden. 

It  is  very  "important  that  all  plants,  whether  hardy  or  tender, 
should  be  "hardened  off"  carefully  before  being  moved  from  the 
frames  to  the  open  garden.  To  do  this,  leave  them  uncovered  all  the 
time  for  several  days  and  nights  before  you  set  them  out,  putting  on 
the  sashes  only  if  frost  threatens.  Should  plants  inadvertently  get 
touched  by  frost,  watering  them  with  ice-cold  water  in  the  morning 
and  keeping  them  shaded  from  the  sun  will  often  enable  them  to  re- 
cover when  they  might  otherwise  be  lost. 

WATERING.  Within  the  last  few  years  there  have  been  developed 
several  systems  for  applying  water  artificially.  Any  gardener  who 
has  a  water  supply  with  thirty  pounds  pressure  available,  can  get  his 


154 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


own  rain  whenever  he  wants  it  by  installing  an  irrigation  system  at  a 
very  slight  cost. 

|pi»  The  type  that  has  been  most  widely  used  consists  of  horizontal 
piping  supported  a  few  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  garden  and  per- 
forated at  regular  intervals.  These  pipes  can  be  turned  by  a  handle 
and  'a  valve  turns  the  water  on  or  off  as  needed.  A  single  line  of  pip 


Street  houses  with  their  backyards.  Some  of  these  are  purely  ornamental;  others, 
notably  the  two  in  the  middle,  have  vegetable  spaces.  The  dotted  parts  represent 
grass,  the  shaded  parts  arbors  and  rest  house,  the  remainder  being  beds  and 

borders 

will  water  a  strip  of  ground  twenty-five  feet  wide  on  both  sides  or 
a  total  of  fifty  feet.  A  hundred  feet  of  three-quarter  inch  galvanized 
pipe,  even  at  present  high  prices,  costs  but  a  few  dollars. 

Another  system  which  is  slightly  more  expensive  andjapplies  the 
water  more  rapidly,  has  adjustable  circular  sprays  placed^every  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  feet  along  the  line  of  pipe.  It  also  does  excellent  work. 


THE^VEGETABLE^GARDEN 


155 


Watering  with  a  hose  by  hand  is  not  to  be  compared  with  water 
applied  by  a  modern  irrigating  system.  The  soil  can  be  soaked  evenly 
and  to  as  great  a  depth  as  desired,  the  water  being  put  on  whenever 
and  wherever  wanted  by  simply  turning  a  valve  and  occasionally 
turning  the  pipe.  For  very  small  gardens  a  portable  system  of  both 
types  can  be  had. 

GENERAL  PRINCIPLES  OF  CULTIVATION.  What  is  "cultivation?" 
Why  do  we  do  it  and  what  does  it  accomplish?  We  cultivate  to  keep 


A  vegetable  garden  for  supplying  a  large  household.     Here,  as  in  the  smaller 
gardens  depicted  on  other  pages,  cleanliness  and  careful  cultivation  are  pre- 
eminent.   Observe  the  handsome  pergola  around  the  exterior 


down  weeds  that  might  rob  the  growing  crop  of  sunlight,  air  and 
nourishment;  to  conserve  the  moisture  hi  the  soil;  to  keep  the  soil 
open  and  aerated,  and  to  pulverize  the  soil  or  break  up  its  particles 
and  thus  assist  the  chemical  and  bacteriological  changes  in  the  soil. 
Cultivation  brings  these  results.  It  also  creates  what  is  called  "a  soil 
mulch,"  i.  e.,  a  layer  of  dry  soil  on  the  surface  which  checks  the  loss  of 
moisture  from  the  lower  layers  to  the  surface  where  it  evaporates 
rapidly. 


156  GARDEN  GUIDE 

The  cultivation  work  required  on  any  crop  will  depend  largely  on 
whether  or  not  you  get  the  first  hoeing  and  weeding  done  just  as  soon 
as  it  is  possible  to  do  it,  or  let  it  go  for  a  few  days  or  a  week  later. 
Within  a  week  or  ten  days  the  soil  between  the  rows  will  have  begun  to 
form  a  crust  again,  and  new  crop  of  weed  seedlings  may  have  sprouted. 
This  means  another  hoeing  promptly.  We  do  not  think  that  it  is  any 
exaggeration  to  say  that  eighty  per  cent  of  the  work  in  taking  care  of 
gardens  is  due  to  the  fact  that  these  hoeings  and  hand  weedings  are 
allowed  to  go  for  several  days  after  they  should  have  been  attended  to. 
The  tedious  task  of  hand  weeding  may  be  lessened  considerably  by 
using  one  of  the  small  hand  weeders. 

Cultivation  should  be  kept  up  frequently  enough  to  maintain  a 
dust  mulch  at  all  times.  Cultivation  with  a  wheel  hoe  should  be  kept 
up  as  long  as  it  is  possible  to  get  between  the  rows.  Then  you  should 
substitute  for  it  a  double  or  slide  hoe.  The  types  with  runners  or  wheel 
to  guide  the  blade  and  hold  it  even  do  much  better  and  easier  work. 
By  all  means,  provide  yourself  with  one. 

INSECTS  AND  DISEASES.  There  are  a  number  of  insects  which 
are  almost  certain  to  put  in  appearance  every  season.  One  important 
thing  hi  combating  insects  and  diseases  is  to  be  prepared  to  ward  off 
attack.  In  cases  where  preventive  measures  are  not  possible,  be  pre- 
pared to  act  immediately  if  trouble  appears.  Owing  to  the  large 
number  of  remedies,  cures  and  poisons  which  the  gardener  sees 
advertised  or  hears  about,  he  is  likely  to  get  the  idea  that  the  question 
of  plant  pests  is  such  a  complicated  one  that  no  simple  and  systematic 
measures  are  possible.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  warfare  with  plant  troubles, 
while  it  is  always  serious  enough,  is  by  no  means  as  complicated  as  at 
first  appears.  The  first  step  to  take  and  the  most  important  thing 
to  know  is  what  kind  of  enemy  you  are  fighting  in  any  particular 
case.  While  their  number  is  legion,  they  can  be  classified  into  three  or 
four  groups  as  spoken  of  in  Chapter  XVII,  against  each  of  which  the 
same  weapons  are  effective. 

HARVESTING  AND  STORING.  There  are  thousands  of  amateur 
gardeners  who  leave  enough  fruit  and  vegetables  on  or  in  the  ground 
at  the  end  of  the  season,  to  make  all  the  difference  between  profit  and 
loss  on  their  season's  operations.  Learn  to  utilize  everything  you  grow. 
Every  head  of  Cabbage  that  splits,  every  ear  of  Corn,  or  handful  of 
Beans  that  gets  too  old  to  use,  every  root  that  is  left  to  freeze  in  the 
ground,  is  just  so  much  waste.  While  many  things  can  be  successfully 
stored  through  the  Whiter,  or  a  large  part  of  it,  others  must  be  canned. 
The  usual  mistake  is  to  try  to  do  all  the  canning  in  a  rush  at  the  end 
of  the  season.  The  prejudice  against  canned  things  is  largely  due  to 
the  fact  that  they  are  not  canned  until  they  are  already  old  and  tough. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


157 


In  storing  vegetables,  a  few  things  need  an  exceptionally  dry  and 
warm  place,  such  as  a  corner  of  the  attic  near  the  chimney.  The  stor- 
age room  must  be  perfectly  clean.  Get  it  ready  early.  Some  folks  like 
to  provide  containers  to  hold  the  different  fruits  or  vegetables  and  so 
make  them  easy  to  handle.  Some  vegetables  demand  a  free  circulation 
of  air  about  them,  while  others  must  be  kept  barely  moist  by  some 
packing  material.  Ordinary  cracker  boxes  and  slatted  vegetable  or 
"Onion"  crates,  each  of  which  holds  about  a  bushel,  level  full,  are  cheap, 
clean  and  convenient,  and  can  be  obtained  at  any  grocery  store.  The 
boxes  are  also  excellent  for  keeping  Apples  and  other  fruit,  and  for 
packing  root  crops  such  as  Parsnips,  Salsify,  Turnips,  Beets,  Carrots 
and  Whiter  Radishes  in  sand  or  sphagnum  moss,  and  also  for  packing 
Celery  for  Winter.  Slatted  crates  are  good  for  Onions,  Squash,  Cab- 
bage, and  for  handling  Tomatoes,  Melons,  Egg-plant  and  so  forth, 
which  can  be  kept  for  some  weeks  in  a  cool  place.  Directions  for  storing 
and  harvesting  the  individual  crops  are  given  in  paragraphs  that 
follow,  but  the  fuller  general  information  is  given  in  this  paragraph 
on  storage. 

SOWING  AND  PLANTING  TABLE 

No.  of 
Days  to 
Mature 

45-75 

55-80 

60-90 

65-100 

70-90 

40-60 

75-90 

100-140 
70-100 

120-180 
60-80 
60-90 
50-80 

100-140 

125-150 
60-80 
80-100 
60-75 
40-60 
75-100 
60-100 

120-150 
90-120 

100-125 

120-175 
90-110 


Vegetables 

Asparagus  
Beans  (early)  
Beans  (wax)  
Beans  (lima)  
Beans  (pole) 

Apart 
in  Rows 
.         1  ft. 
.   3-4  in. 
.   3-4  in. 
.   4-6  in. 
4  ft. 

Rows 
Apart 
3  ft. 
18  in. 
15-24 
18-24 
4  ft. 

Beans  (pole  lima)  .  . 
Beets  (early)  .  .  . 

.       4  ft. 
.   4-6  in. 

4-5  ft. 
12-15 

Beets  (late)  
Brussels  Sprouts.  .  . 
Cabbage  (early)  
Cabbage  (late)  
Carrots  (early)  
Carrots  (late)  
Cauliflower  (early). 
Cauliflower  (late)  .  . 
Celery  

.   4-6  in. 
.     18  in. 
.     18  in. 
.     18  in. 
.   3-4  in. 
.   2-4  in. 
.     18  in. 
.       2  ft. 
.   2-3  in. 

12-15 
2  ft. 
2  ft. 
2-3  ft. 
12  in. 
12-15  in. 
2  ft. 
2-3  ft. 
12  in. 

Corn  (early)  
Corn  (main  crop)  .  . 
Cucumbers 

3  ft. 
.       4  ft. 
4  ft. 

3-4  ft. 
4  ft. 
4  ft. 

2  ft. 

30  in. 

Endive 

12  in. 

12  in. 

Lettuce  
Leek  .... 

.     12  in. 
3-4  in. 

12-15  in. 
15  in. 

Melons,  Musk  
Melons,  Water  
Onion  

.   4-6  ft. 
.   6-8  ft. 
.   2-3  in. 

4-6  ft. 
6-8  ft. 
12-15  in. 

Parslev.  . 

.   4-6  in. 

1  ft. 

158 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


[SOWING  AND  PLANTING  TABLE— Continued 


Apart 
Vegetables  in  Rows 

Parsnips 3-5  in. 

Peas  (smooth) 3/£-2  in. 

Peas  (wrinkled) J^-2  in. 

Peas  (late) 2-3  in. 

Peppers 2  ft. 

Potatoes 13  in. 

Pumpkin 6-8  ft. 

Radish  (early) 2-3  in. 

Radish  (late) 2-3  in. 

Salsify 2-4  in. 

Squash  (Summer) . . .   3-6  ft. 
Squash  (Winter). ...   6-8  ft. 

Swiss  Chard 8-12  in. 

Tomato 3-4  ft. 

Turnips  (early) 4-6  in. 

Turnips  (late) 4-6  in. 


Seeds 

Rows 
Apart 

or  Plants 
50-ft.  Row 

Depth 
1  Cm.) 

15-18  in. 

1^  OZ. 

3  ft. 

1   pt. 

1-2 

3-4  ft. 

1   pt. 

3-4 

3-4  ft. 

1   pt. 

3-4 

30  in. 

25  plants 

28  in. 

72  pk. 

3-4 

6-8  ft. 

^  OZ. 

1 

1  ft. 

y^  oz. 

v% 

1  ft. 

y%  oz. 

H 

15-18  in. 

%  oz. 

i 

4-6  ft. 

yi  oz. 

/^-l 

6-8  ft. 

}/£  oz. 

1 

15-18  in. 

%  oz. 

1-2 

4-5  ft. 

15-20  plants 

15  in. 

^2  OZ. 

y*. 

15  in. 

/^   OZ. 

y* 

No.  of 
Days  to 
Mature 

100-150 
50-65 
60-75 
70-80 
40-60 
60-90 

100-130 
25-5Q 
25-50 

125-150 
60-75 

50-60 
40-60 
60-75 
60-75 


CULTIVATION  OF  THE  CHIEF  VEGETABLES 

The  principles  of  fertility  and  culture,  which  have  been  covered  in 

the  previous  chapters,  apply  alike  to  all  vegetables. 

ASPARAGUS. — A  hundred  or  two  Asparagus  plants,  well  cared  for, 

.  will  supply  the  home  table.  Select  well  drained  soil  in  which  to 
plant  this  crop,  preferably  one  a  little  sandy.  Dig  out  trenches 
about  eighteen  inches  deep  and  three  feet  apart.  Tread  into  these 
six  inches  or  so  of  manure,  and  cover  this  with  good  soil  to  within 
six  inches  of  the  surface.  On  this  prepared  bed,  set  the  roots  a 
foot  apart,  spreading  them  out  evenly.  Fill  the  trench  only  two- 
thirds  or  so  at  first,  and  work  the  rest  of  the  soil  in  until  it  is  level 
as  the  plants  develop.  Beans,  Beets,  Carrots,  Lettuce,  can  be  grown 
between  the  rows  of  Asparagus  during  the  first  part  of  the  season. 
In  the  Fall,  clear  off  and  burn  ah1  the  dead  material  and  weeds,  and 
apply  a  coating  of  manure.  As  the  shoots  or  growths  develop  in 
the  Spring,  a  few  of  the  largest  may  be  cut,  but  only  for  a  few  weeks 
the  first  year.  Cultivate  thoroughly,  however,  to  get  as  vigorous 
a  growth  of  plants  as  possible.  Manure  or  fertilize  in  August. 
This  is  to  throw  strength  into  the  crown  for  the  early  Spring  growth, 
as  the  succulent  roots  act  as  storehouses  of  plant  food. 

BEANS — Always  select  a  warm  and  fertile  soil  if  available.  Avoid 
nitrogenous  manures  pr  fertilizers  near  the  seeds.  Thin  out  to 
several  inches  apart  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  well  started.  As  the 
plants  develop,  hill  them  slightly.  Avoid  working  or  picking  while 
the  foliage  is  wet.  The  Dwarf  Limas  are  only  partly  dwarf,  and 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


159 


should  be  given  more  space  than  the  Wax  Beans.    Put  the  seed  in 
edgeways  with  the  eye  down,  and  if  possible,  avoid  planting  within 
two  or  three  days  of  rain. 
Pole  Beans  are  usually  planted  in  specially  prepared  hills,  3  to  4  ft. 


\LETTUCE.  &4D/SHES  FOLLow£00r  CELEPr 


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Plan  for  the  cropping  of  a  town  or  city  garden  5ft.  by  75ft.     From  U.  S.  Farmers' 

Bulletin  6470 


160 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


I 

JI 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


161 


apart,  and  supported  on  rough  poles  or  stakes  with  cross  pieces.  A 
^better  way  is  to  grow  them  in  rows,  and  support  them  on  a  con- 
tinuous trellis.  For  a  long  bearing  season  keep  all  pods  picked  off 
as  fast  as  they  are  large  enough.  Many  varieties,  however,  are 
good  as  shell  Beans  after  they  mature. 


or 

Or  CJC/L//~LO\«/£R 


T0/y/4T0£S 


4" 
4" 

4* 
4" 
4" 

e" 


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Plan  for  the  planting  of  a  hotbed. 
From  a  Cornell  bulletin. 


r/^o/vr  or  ££& 

The  frame  is  3ft.  wide  by  5ft.  H 
See  also  page  225,  Chapter  XXI 


long. 


162  .GARDEN  GUIDE 

BEETS. — Plant  in  well  enriched,  moist  soil  and  thin  early.  In  setting 
out  plants  started  in  frames  or  started  under  glass,  put  them  about 
3  in.  apart.  The  thinnings  from  the  crop  make  excellent  greens. 
As  with  all  the  root  crops,  especially  when  planted  early  in  the 
season,  growth  will  be  greatly  stimulated  by  a  slight  application  of 
nitrate  of  soda.  Make  two  or  three  sowings  between  April  and  the 
latter  part  of  June  when  the  crop  for  Fall  use  and  Winter  storage 
is  put  in. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS.— This  extremely  delicious  vegetable  is  grown 
in  much  the  same  way  as  Cauliflower  or  Cabbage.  The  "buttons" 
or  small  heads  which  form  along  the  stalk  may  be  grown  to  a  larger 
size  by  pinching  out  the  crown  of  the  plant  after  the  "buttons"  have 
formed.  These  plants  are  extremely  hardy  and  the  "buttons," 
which  are  improved  by  frost,  may  be  left  on  the  stalk  and  gathered 
when  wanted  until  Midwinter. 

CABBAGE. — Use  deep  and  very  rich  soil  which  is  not  lacking  in 
lime,  and  in  addition  to  this,  put  manure  or  fertilizer  in  the  hills  or 
rows.  The  early  varieties  may  be  set  as  close  as  16  in.  or  18  in. 
Plants  started  under  glass  are  set  out  early  in  April,  and  seeds 
planted  at  the  same  time  will  give  plants  for  a  succession  crop. 
Plants  for  the  late  crop  are  started  in  the  latter  part  of  May  or 
early  during  the  first  half  of  July.  As  a  rule,  the  earlier  the  better. 
One  of  the  most  important  points  in  growing  strong  plants  for 
transplanting  is  to  thin  them  out  to  several  inches  apart  as  soon 
as  they  are  well  started;  also  keep  them  thoroughly  cultivated  at 
all  stages  of  growth.  A  slight  hilling  up  as  they  develop  is  desirable. 
Two  or  three  light  applications  of  nitrate  of  soda  given  a  week  or  so 
after  transplanting,  and  again  in  from  ten  to  fourteen  days,  will 
help  wonderfully  in  giving  the  crop  a  strong  start. 

CARROTS. — The  general  cultural  requirements  are  similar  to  those 
recommended  for  Beets,  with  the  exception  that  the  ground  can 
hardly  be  made  too  rich  for  the  latter,  while  Carrots  will  often  do 
excellently  on  ground  which  is  not  of  so  good  tilth.  For  instance, 
if  part  of  your  garden  is  new  ground,  Carrots  will  be  all  right  there, 
while  Beets  would  do  better  on  the  old  soil  in  the  highest  state  of 
cultivation.  For  the  earliest  crop  sow  a  variety  recommended  for 
forcing  in  the  hot-bed  or  cold  frame  in  rows  12  in.  apart,  setting 
Radishes  between.  The  Radishes  will  be  out  of  the  way  in  time  for 
the  Carrots  to  develop.  Where  space  is  limited,  a  late  planting  of 
Onions  for  Winter  use  may  be  put  in  between  the  rows  in  late  June, 
omitting  every  second  or  third  row,  giving  room  to  dry  and  harvest 
the  Onions.  It  will  prove  successful  only  if  the  ground  is  free  from 
weeds,  and  soil  moisture  from  irrigation  or  otherwise  is  to  be  relied 
upon. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


163 


CAULIFLOWER.— This  crop  is  handled  in  much  the  same  way  as 
Cabbage,  with  the  following  additional  cultural  requirements.  The 
plants  are  more  tender  and  should  not  be  set  out  until  a  week  or 
so  after  the  first  planting  of  Cabbage.  Cauliflower  is  a  very  gross 
feeder  and  even  larger  quantities  of  manure  and  fertilizer  can  be 
applied  with  advantage.  An  abundance  of  water  is  also  of  the 
greatest  importance.  To  be  kept  white  and  tender  the  "heads" 
or  curds  must  be  protected  from  the  sun  soon  after  they  begin  to 
form  by  tying  the  leaves  together  over  them.  The  "heads"  remain  in 
the  best  of  condition  for  only  a  few  days  and  should  be  examined 
frequently  when  about  ready  to  prevent  "going  by." 


Do  you  grow  Brussels  Sprouts?  They  are  the  most  tasty  of 
the  Cabbage  tribe 

CELERY. — The  first  requirement  hi  growing  good  Celery  is  a  good 
supply  of  water.  The  soil  can  hardly  be  made  too  rich.  Early 
Cabbage  and  early  Beets,  Peas,  Lettuce,  etc.,  are  usually  out  of 
the  way  in  time  to  put  in  the  Celery,  so  that  the  same  ground  can 
be  used,  but  an  additional  dressing  of  fertilizer  should  be  given.  For 
early  use  set  out  strong  plants  in  April  or  May,  putting  the  rows 
3  to  4  ft.  apart,  and  the  plants  6  in.  hi  the  row.  Where  irrigation  is 
available  the  plants  are  sometimes  grown  in  beds,  being  placed  8  to 
10  in.  apart  each  way;  many  more  sorts  may  be  grown  in  the  same 
area  but  they  never  are  as  heavy  as  those  grown  in  rows.  The 
early  crop  is  blanched  where  it  grows,  either  by  backing  up  with 
soil  which  is  drawn  in  carefully  about  the  stalks  to  hold  them  in  an 
upright  position  as  they  develop,  or  through  a  more  convenient 
means;  that  is,  Celery  blanchers  of  various  types  which  are  now 
obtainable.  For  late  Fall  and  Winter  use  the  seed  is  sown  in  April 
and  the  plants  set  out  in  June  or  July.  Stronger  plants  can  be^ob- 


164 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


tained  by  transplanting  from  the  seed-bed  to  give  the  plants  several 
inches  apart  each  way.  This  makes  them  stocky  and  develops  a 
fibrous  root  system  which  will  give  quicker  and  better  results  than 
if  they  are  set  out  in  the  garden.  In  transplanting  water  thoroughly 
and  shade  from  the  midday  sun  for  a  few  days.  Be  careful  not  to 
get  any  soil  over  the  hearts  of  the  plants.  Give  clean  culture  and 
one  or  two  top  dressings  of  nitrate  of  soda  as  the  plants  develop,  and 


Young  Celery  plants.    The  one  on 

the  left  has  been  properly  thinned 

when  a  seedling;  the  other  has  been 

crowded  and  is  weak 


Celery  plant  when  large,  blanchep 
by  means  of  a  brown  paper  "collar' 


throw  enough  soil  up  to  them  to  hold  the  stalks  upright.  Blanching 
is  accomplished  by  taking  up  the  plants  with  such  soil  as  adheres  to 
the  roots,  and  packing  them  close  together  and  upright  in  a  trench 
12  to  15  in.  wide,  and  deep  enough  so  that  the  tops  of  the  leaves 
come  about  on  the  level  of  the  soil.  As  cold,  freezing  weather 
approaches,  the  trench  is  covered  with  a  mulch  or  with  boards;  a 
portion  o£  the  crop  left  for  Winter  use  is  transferred  to  boxes  and 
stored  in  the  cellar  as  described  in  the  section  on  Harvesting. 
Oelery  crop  should  never  be  worked  or  handled  while  the  foliage 
is  wet  as  this  will  tend  to  augment  any  disease  there  may  be. 
SWISS  CHABD. — Swiss  Chard,  or  Spinach  Beet,  is  now  used  by  many 
gardeners  in  preference  to  Spinach.  One  great  advantage  is  that 
from  a  single  planting  in  the  Spring  greens  are  available  in  abundance 
until  hard  freezing  weather.  If  the  outside  leaves  only  are  taken  in 
gathering  a  picking  may  be  made  every  few  days,  or  the  large,  mid- 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  165 

ribs  may  be  stewed  or  creamed  like  Celery.  Give  the  same  culture 
as  you  give  Beets,  and  thin  the  plants  out  to  6  or  8  in.  in  the  row. 
CORN. — To  get  an  extra  early  crop,  a  hundred  or  so  plants  may  readily 
be  started  in  small  paper  pots  in  a  cold  frame,  not  to  be  planted 
until  a  week  or  two  before  it  would  be  safe  to  plant  outdoors. 
For  this  purpose,  Golden  Bantam,  which  is  extra  hardy  and  also 
dwarf  in  growth,  is  particularly  good.  As  Corn  remains  at  its  best 
but  a  few  days,  succession  should  be  provided  for,  either  by  making 
a  small  planting  every  week  or  ten  days,  or  planting  an  early,  a 


Handy  device  for  marking  off  rows  in  the  vegetable  garden 

medium  and  a  late  variety  at  the  same  time,  early  in  May,  early  in* 
June,  and  early  in  July.  Give  good  clean  culture  with  a  slight 
hilling  up  when  the  plants  are  about  half  grown;  this  is  about  all  the 
plants  require.  A  mistake  that  is  sometimes  made  is  to  leave  too 
many  stalks  in  a  hill.  Thin  out  to  three  or  four  for  best  results. 
It  is  often  more  convenient  to  plant  and  cultivate,  and  just  as  good 
results  can  be  obtained  by  sowing  in  continuous  rows  or  drills  in- 
stead of  in  hills,  the  plants  being  left  to  stand  about  a  foot  apart. 

CORN  SALAD. — Corn  Salad,  or  Fetticus,  is  grown  as  a  substitute 
for  Lettuce  during  the  late  Fall  months  as  it  does  not  thrive  during 
warm  weather.  Sow  thinly  in  late  August  or  early  September.  It 
is  very  hardy,  and  with  a  light  mulching  of  hay,  may  be  had  after 
other  salad  plants  are  gone. 

CRESS. — This  refreshing,  pungent  little  salad  or  garnishing  plant, 
sometimes  called  Pepper  Grass,  may  be  easily  grown  throughout 
the  season.  Successive  sowings  should  be  made,  as  it  quickly  runs 
to  seed.  For  a  continuous  supply,  make  small  plantings  every  two 
weeks  in  rows  12  in.  apart. 

CUCUMBERS.— For  Cucumbers  a  light,  warm  soil  is  preferable,  but 


166  GARDEN  GUIDE 

they  will  succeed  in  almost  any  garden  soil,  provided  there  is  good 
drainage. 

The  greatest  difficulty  in  succeeding  with  Cucumbers  and  other 
curcubits  or  vine  crops,  is  to  protect  them  from  the  striped  yellow 
beetle,  the  Melon  louse  and  the  black  wilt.  To  make  sure  of  a 
crop  give  a  general  purpose  spraying  every  ten  days  or  two 
weeks,  using  a  soapy-nicotine  spray.  As  it  is  essential  to 
cover  the  underside  of  the  leaves  as  well  as  the  surface,  an  angle 
nozzle  should  be  used  and  a  sprayer  sufficiently  strong  to  produce 
a  good  mist  spray.  Where  such  a  sprayer  is  not  available,  dry 
spraying  or  dusting  may  be  substituted,  keeping  the  plants  well 
covered  from  early  growth.  Much  earlier  crops  and  better  results 
may  be  had,  by  starting  the  plants  in  paper  pots  in  cold  frames  as 
recommended  for  sweet  corn.  It  is  well,  however,  to  use  larger 
pots — say,  4  in.  square.  Fill  each  about  half  full  with  a  compost 
of  light  soil  and  old,  thoroughly  rotted  manure.  Thin  out  to  three 
or  four  plants,  and  after  they  have  been  set  out  long  enough  to 
become  established,  thin  to  two  plants  to  a  hill.  Keep  the  soil 
between  th»  plants  well  cultivated  until  the  vines  cover  it.  In 
setting  out  started  plants  the  hills  or  rows  should  be  enriched  with 
well  rotted  manure  or  guano  or  blood  and  bone,  the  same  as  when 
planting  seeds.  A  method  of  insuring  a  good  stand  from  seed  is  to 
soak  half  of  the  seed  you  have  to  plant  over  night  in  warm  water, 
dry  it  off  in  fine  dust  or  land  plaster,  and  mix  with  the  rest  planting 

.  two  together,  covering  some  preferably  a  little  deeper  than  others. 
The  advantage  of  this  is  that  whatever  the  conditions  that  follow 
planting  may  be,  enough  of  the  seeds  to  make  a  good  stand  are  pretty 
certain  to  come  through.  If  the  vines  are  wanted  to  continue 
bearing  for  a  long  time,  pick  off  fruits  as  they  mature,  whether  they 
are  needed  or  not.  For  late  use  and  for  pickling,  a  second  planting 
may  be  made  the  latter  part  of  June. 

EGG-PLANT.— The  Egg-plant  is  another  vegetable  which  revels  in 
the  richest  soil  and  an  abundance  of  moisture.  General  culture  is 
the  same  as  that  recommended  for  Tomatoes,  except  that  the  plants 
do  not  have  to  be  staked  up  or  pruned.  The  plants  should  be  grown 
in  pots  and  for  best  results  repotted  once  or  twice  so  that  they  are 
in  three  and  a  hah"  or  fours  when  set  outdoors,  which  should  not  be 
until  after  Tomatoes  are  planted.  The  most  dangerous  enemy  to 
be  encountered  in  growing  Egg-plants  is  the  striped  Potato  bug. 
Arsenate  of  lead  paste  may  be  used,  but  if  a  few  plants  are  grown, 
hand  picking  (knocking  the  beetles  off  with  a  small  stick  or  paddle 
into  a  pan  half  full  of  kerosene  and  water)  will  prove  effective  and 
will  give  little  trouble  as  the  beetles  are  killed  before  they  eat. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


167 


ENDIVE.— This  is  another    salad 

grown  mostly  for  Fall  use.      Sow 

the  same  as  Lettuce  in  June  or 

July,  and  thin  to  about  12  in.    It 

requires  blanching  to  be  ready  for 

use.  The  individual  heads  may  be 

tied  up  loosely  with  raffia,  or  two  6- 

or  8-in.  boards  temporarily  nailed 

together  in  an  inverted  V  shape 

may  be  placed  over  the  row,  blanch- 
ing a  section  at  a  time.      Do  not 

work  crop  when  the  leaves  are  wet. 
HERBS.— A  few  of  the  common  or 

culinary  herbs  should  be  grown  hi 

even  the  small  vegetable  garden. 

They    are    useful    for    flavoring 

during  the  Summer,  and  it  is  an 

easy  matter  to  get  a  Winter  supply 

by  gathering  and  drying  sprigs  or 

foliage  in  Summer  or  Fall.    They 

will  keep  in  any  dry  place  for  Winter  use.  Hang  them  up  in  bunches. 

The  garden  herbs  contain  both  annuals  and  biennials.    Among  the 

most  popular  of  the  former  are  Anise,  used  for  flavoring  and  garnish- 
ing; Sweet  Basil,  used  in  stews  and  for  seasoning  various  dishes; 

Dill,  of  which  the  seeds  are  used  largely  in  making   Cucumber 


Improved  Golden  Wax  pod  Bean 


Cabbages — fresh  and  tempting 


168  GARDEN  GUIDE 

pickles;  Summer  Savory,  another  popular  soup  herb,  and  Tagetes 
lucida,  which  has  much  the  same  flavor  as  Tarragon,  and  is  used  as 
a  substitute  for  it.  Of  the  perennials,  which  after  once  being  es- 
tablished will  supply  the  garden  without  replanting  each  season, 
there  are  Caraway,  widely  used  in  cookies,  etc.;  Catnip  and  Sweet 
Fennel,  used  for  flavoring  sauces;  Rosemary  and  Sage,  which  is  very 
easily  grown,  and  used  perhaps  more  than  any  other  herb  for  season- 
ing; Winter  Savory  which,  like  the  Summer  variety,  is  used  for 
flavoring,  and  Thyme,  another  favorite  seasoning  herb.  Most  of 
these  herbs  can  be  grown  without  difficulty.  Sow  them  in  drills, 


Early  Stump-rooted  Carrots 

as  you  would  vegetable  seeds  of  similar  size.  Thin  them  out  to  a 
few  inches,  if  they  come  up  too  thickly,  and  give  clean  culture. 
Those  of  which  the  seeds  are  used  should  be  cut  and  dried,  when  the 
seeds  can  be  rubbed  or  pounded  out  and  freed  from  the  chaff  by 
winnowing  or  singeing. 

HORSE  RADISH.— While  only  a  small  quantity  of  these  may  be 
needed  for  home  use,  a  few  plants  may  be  grown  as  easily  as  not. 
Instead  of  seeds,  sets  or  small  pieces  of  roots  are  planted.  They 
are  perfectly  hardy,  and  can  be  taken  up  in  Fall  or  early  Spring, 
just  as  wanted.  Two  dozen  roots  will  give  an  ample  supply  for  a 
small  family.  Its  chief  cultural  requirements  are  plenty  of  moisture 
and  a  deep  rich  soil. 

KALE  or  BORECOLE.— This  vegetable  may  be  described  as  a  loose 
leaf  Cabbage.  It  is  cooked  as  greens.  It  is  improved  by  frost  and 
it  is  so  hardy  it  may  be  had  from  outdoors  in  the  garden  when  all 
other  greens  have  long  since  perished.  It  is  given  about  the  same 
treatment  as  late  Cabbage.  Only  extra  hardy  varieties  may  be 
sown  in  September  and  wintered  over,  like  Winter  Spinach. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


169 


KOHL-RABL—  This  comparatively  little 
used  vegetable  is  very  easily  grown,  and 
if  cooked  before  the  roots  or  bulbs  get 
too  large,  is  very  good.  For  an  extra 
early  crop  it  may  easily  be  started  under 
glass  and  transplanted.  To  have  it  for 
use  thr<>ughout  the  season,  sow  succession 
crops,  as  for  Turnips. 
LEEKS.  —  The  Leek  to  obtain  full  development  requires  a  long  season 
of  growth.  It  transplants  readily,  and  seedlings  started  in  April 
or  early  May  may  be  transplanted  in  June,  preferably  to  drills  which 
have  been  enriched  with  old  manure  or  the  starting  mixture.  The 
lower  portion  of  the  stem  should  be  blanched  for  use  like  Celery. 
This  may  be  done  by  keeping  the  earth  drawn  up  to  it,  or  the  plants 
may  be  taken  up  and  stored  in  a  trench  like  late  Celery.  They  are 
very  hardy  and  the  flavor  is  greatly  improved  by.  freezing. 
LETTUCE.  —  While  Lettuce  can  be  grown  from  early  Spring  until 
late  in  the  season  (and  with  the  use  of  frames  the  year  around) 
success  with  it  will  depend  very  largely  upon  using  the  right  type 
for  the  particular  seaso)n  or  conditions  under  which  each  successive 
crop  is  to  be  grown.  The  number  of  varieties  in  general  culture  is 
so  great  that  it  is  rather  confusing,  but  if  the  gardener  gets  the  several 
distinct  types  fixed  in  his  mind,  he  can  make  his  selection  intelli- 
gently. All  varieties  can  be  classed  in  general  in  two  groups:  the 
loose  leaf  and  the  headed.  The  former  are  the  easier  to  grow,  but 
as  a  general  rule,  the  latter  are  considered  of  better  quality,  although 
that  is  mostly  a  matter  of  taste.  "  The  loose-leaf  type  is  suitable  for 
growing  under  glass,  being  for  this'purpose  muchness  subject'to  the 
dreaded  rot  which  quickly  destroys  head  lettuce  under  glass,  and 
also  for  growing  outdoors  in  Spring,  early  Summer  and  Fall.  With 
irrigation  it  can  be  grown  easily  throughout  the  Summer  months, 
but  in  dry  weather  runs  quickly  to  seed.  The 
head  types  of  Lettuce  may  be  considered  in 
three  sections:  the  butter  head,  the  Cabbage 
head  and  the  tub.  Of  these, 
the  loose  leaf  is  suitable  for 
Spring  and  Fall  use.  The 
hard  or  crisp  heading  sorts 
take  longer  to  mature  but 
form  heads  which  resist  the 
heat  and  are  slower  to  run 
to  seed,  and  are  good  for 

•»«••!  .1         .1  Planet  Jr.  hoe,  very  useful  for   inedium- 

Mldsummer     growth;     they  sized  and  large  garden? 


170  GARDEN  GUIDE 

are  not  suitable  for  forcing.  The  Cos  type,  most  varieties  of 
which  have  to  be  tied  up  to  blanch  thoroughly,  is  quite 
distinct  in  appearance  and  flavor  from  the  other  types,  but  is  easily 
grown  and  should  be  given  a  place  in  most  gardens,  even  hi  small 
gardens,  for  variety.  It  is  suitable  for  use  during  Midsummer  and 
early-  Fall.  To  be  of  the  best  quality,  Lettuce  must  be  quickly 
grown.  It  requires  an  abundance  of  moisture  and  a  high  percentage 
of  available  nitrogen  in  the  fertilizer  or  manure.  Well-rotted  horse 
manure  is  particularly  adapted  to  the  growing  of  this  crop.  A 
mistake  often  made  in  sowing  the  seed  in  drills  in  the  open  is  to  let 
the  plants  stand  too  thickly.  Thin  them  out  as  soon  as  they  are 
well  started  to  6  or  8  in.  in  the  row,  or  even  more  in  rich  soil  under 
irrigation.  To  have  a  succession  of  crops  around  the  year  start 
plants  in  January  or  February  for  setting  out  into  the  frames,  and 
make  a  small  sowing  every  two  weeks  or  so  thereafter,  changing  the 
type  you  use  according  to  the  changing  seasons. 
MELONS. — Muskmelons  are  similar  in  theu*  cultural  requirements  to 
Cucumbers.  In  northern  locations  where  the  seasons  are  short, 
it  is  always  a  good  plan  to  start  at  least  part  of  the  crop  early  in 
paper  pots  in  frames.  As  some  gardeners  also  advocate  the  pinching 
off  of  the  ends  of  the  runners  after  they  have  attained  4  or  5  ft.  in 
length,  to  hasten  the  development  of  the  laterals  on  which  the 
fruits  set,  it»may  be  well  to  do  this.  For  very  small  gardens  the  bush 
type  of  Melon,  recently  developed,  offers  distinct  advantages.  The 
hills  may  be  planted  as  close  as  4  ft.  apart.  Heavy  soil  should 
be  avoided,  if  possible.  If  it  must  be  used,  add  plenty  of  sand,  and 
leaf  mold  to  the  soil  in  the  hill  when  preparing  it,  and  raise  the  hill 
slightly;  keep  it  flat  but  bring  it  a  couple  of  inches  above  the  ground 

level. 

WATERMELONS.— The  require- 
ments of  Watermelons  are  in  gen- 
eral the  same  as  those  of  the  other 
curcubits  already  mentioned,  ex- 
cept that  much  more  space  is  de- 
manded by  them.  The  hills  are 
put  6  to  8  ft.  apart  each  way.  In 
a  small  garden  space  can  some- 
times be  saved  by  putting  Water- 
melons (and  Winter  Squash  and 
Sugar  Pumpkins)  near  the  edge  of 
the  garden  where  the  vines  can  be 
allowed  to  run  out  over  the  grass, 

Garden  hoes  of  different  patterns  Or  Supported  on  old  Pea  Brush    or 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  171 


Dwarf  French  Beans 

something  similar  along  a  fence,  thus  saving  space.  Plant  only  a 
variety  adapted  to  your  locality.  In  the  Northern  States  the  season 
is  not  long  enough  for  any  but  the  early  varieties  to  mature,  while 
this  advantage  can  be  overcome  to  a  great  extent  by  starting  the 
plants  in  paper  pots  in  frames  two  weeks  or  so  earlier  than  the  seeds 
could  be  planted  outside. 

MUSTARD. — The  leaves  of  the  newer,  larger  growing  varieties  can 
be  used  either  as  a  salad  or  as  greens,  some  of  which  attain  a  foot  or 
more  in  height.  Three  or  four  crops  may  be  sown  during  the 
season  to  supply  a  succession.  Those  planted  in  Summer  or  early 
Fall  will  usually  give  the  best  results.  Sow  thinly  in  drills  15  or  18 
in.  apart,  and  thin  out  and  cultivate  as  you  would  Lettuce. 

OKRA  may  be  grown  easily  if  a  rich  soil  and  a  sunny  position  are  pro- 
vided. It  is  very  tender  and  should  not  be  planted  until  the  ground 
is  thoroughly  warm.  The  rows  should  be  from  2  to  3  ft.  apart  and 
the  plants  thinned  to  18  in.  or  more  to  give  room  for  ample  develop- 
ment. The  pods  should  be  used  while  they  are  still  young  and 
tender. 

ONIONS  are  used  in  all  stages  of  development,  from  seedlings  as  big 
as  a  pencil,  eaten  raw,  to  the  mature  dried  bulb.  They  may  be  grown 
from  seed,  from  prickers  (seedlings  started  under  glass  and  set  out 
later  in  the  garden),  sets  (which  are  very  small  bulbs  of  standard 
varieties,  grown  small  especially  for  this  purpose) ,  por  Lfrom  the 


172  GARDEN  GUIDE 

perennial  multiplier,  the  Potato  or  Egyptian  Onion.  The  last  three 
propagate  themselves  by  multiplying,  either  at  the  roots  or  at  the 
top  of  the  seed  stalks,  the  cluster  of  bulblets  being  divided  up  and 
set  out  for  the  following  crop.  They  may  be  planted  either  in  early 
Spring  or  in  late  Fall. 

Onions  from  seed  yield  very  heavily  in  rich  soil,  but  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  seed-bed  must  be  of  the  best  as  the  seed  is  fine;  it  must  be 
lightly  and  firmly  covered,  eight  to  twelve  seeds  being  drilled  in 
to  the  inch  of  row.  In  addition  to  rich  and  very  thoroughly  prepared 
soil,  the  most  important  thing  in  growing  Onion  seed  is  to  keep  ahead 
of  the  weeds.  The  plants  when  they  first  come  up  are  very  small, 
not  much  bigger  than  blades  of  grass,  and  the  whole  crop  may  very 
easily  be  lost  through  neglect  in  this  regard.  Go  through  it  with 
the  wheel  hoe  and  also  by  hand  within  a  week  or  ten  days  after  they 
break  ground.  Continued  clean  culture  and  occasional  light  appli- 
cations of  nitrate  of  soda  will  keep  the  crop  developing  vigorously 
till  Midsummer.  Lime  in  the  soil  and  soot  sprinkled  along  the  rows 
will  tend  to  mitigate  the  damage  done  by  the  Onion  maggot.  The 
most  certain  remedy  for  the  maggot,  however,  is  a  poison  spray  or 
bait  for  the  flies,  which  can  be  applied  only  with  a  strong  pressure 
sprayer.  When  the  plants  get  too  large  to  go  through  them  with  the 
wheel  hoe,  the  slide  or  scuffle  hoe  should  be  used,  the  kind  with 
guides  or  runners  in  front  of  the  blades,  which  hold  it  at  an  even 
depth,  making  the  work  easier  and  lessening  the  danger  of  injury 
to  the  bulbs.  As  soon  as  the  tops  die  down  the  bulbs  should  be 
pulled  and  laid  in  windrows,  and  raked  ovBr  every  day  or  two  until 
thoroughly  dried;  then  they  may  be  taken  and  the  tops  cut  off,  and 
spread  out  on  a  floor,  or  in  an  open  shed,  or  packed  in  slatted  Onion 
crates,  which  hold  about  a  bushel  apiece,  to  dry  off  thoroughly 
before  being  packed  away  for  the  Winter. 

For  transplanting,  to  get  large  bulbs,  the  seeds  should  be  started 
under  glass  in  February  or  early  March,  and  transplanted  in  April  or 
Early  May,  setting  the  plants  about  3  in.  apart.  Seed  should  be 
sown  very  thinly  in  flats,  with  rows  3  or  4  in.  apart.  Keep  them  as 
near  the  glass  as  possible,  and  transfer  them  to  the  cold  frames  as 
soon  as  it  is  safe,  so  as  to  get  hardy,  stocky  plants.  In  transplanting 
the  roots  are  trimmed  back  to  within  three  quarters  of  an  inch  or  so, 
and  half  of  the  tops  removed,  when  they  can  be  handled  readily, 
and  practically  none  will  drop  out  if  the  work  is  properly  done. 
Sets  planted  early  in  the  Spring  by  pushing  the  bulbs  down  into 
ground  until  they  are  slightly  covered  will  make  a  quick  growth 
and  give  Onions  ready  for  use  before  those  from  "prickers"  or 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  173 

seed  sown  in  the  open.  Rich  soil  and  two  or  three  hoeings  is  all 
that  will  be  required. 

PARSLEY. — For  Summer  use  sow  the  seed  early  in  Spring,  soaking  it 
thoroughly  a  day  or  two,  for  it  is  very  slow  to  germinate,  and  thin 
the  plants  to  6  in.  or  so  apart  when  they  are  well  started.  Give 
plenty  of  water  to  keep  the  growth  succulent  and  tender.  For 
Winter  use  sow  a  packet  of  seed  in  late  July  or  August,  and  when 
the  little  plants  have  become  well  established,  transplant  to  po'ts 
or  a  small  box,  or  to  a  cold  frame.  A  flat  of  Parsley  in  *a  sunny 
kitchen  window  will  furnish  garnishing  throughout  the  Winter. 

PARSNIPS'are  easily  grown,  but  to  produce  long,  smooth  roots  re- 
quires deep,  richjsoil.  Anotherjessential  is  to  get  them  sown  very 


Onion  sets 

early  in  the  Spring,  as  the  longer  the  season  the  better  the  crop 
resulting,  as  a  rule.  Thin  them  out  early  as  the  long  roots  and  side 
branches  get  tangled  together,  and  those  that  are  left  are  apt  to  be 
seriously  injured  by  the  process  of  thinning  if  it  is  not  promptly 
attended  to.  They  will  be  ready  for  use  in  the  Fall  and  can  be  used 
from  the  ground  until  freezing  weather,  when  enough  to  last  through 
the  Winter  should  be  stored,  the  remainder  being  left  in  the  ground 
for  Spring. 

PEAS  from  any  one  planting  will  remain  in  the  best  of  condition  for 
use  only  for  a  comparatively  short  time.  To  have  a  constant  supply 
throughout  the  season,  a  succession  of  plantings  Should  be  made. 
Under  irrigation^they  can  be  had  from  early  June  until  frost,  other- 


174  GARDEN  GUIDE 

wise  dry  weather  is  pretty  sure  to  cause  a  failure  of  the  crop  during 
late  July  and  August,  so  that  it  does  not  pay  to  plant  after  late 
May  until  the  latter  part  of  July.  ^ 

The  dwarf  varieties  do  not  bear  as  iieavily  nor  for  as  longta 
period  as-  the  climbing  sorts,  but  for  small  gardens  they  have  the 
advantage  that  they  are  economical  in  space  and  do  not  require 
support.  One  or  two  good  dwarf  sorts  sown  every  ten  .days  or  two 
'weeks  will  maintain  a  supply.  If  the  tall  varieties  are  used,  each 
planting  will  bear  for  two  to  three  weeks,  so  that  fewer  plantings 
are  required  to  maintain  the  succession.  If  an  early  medium  or 
late  variety  is  planted  at  the  same  time,  the  plantings  may  be  a 
month  or  so  apart. 

The  smooth,  extra  hardy  varieties  may  be  planted  as  early  in  the 
Spring  as  the  ground  may  be  worked.  The  others,  however,  should 
not  be  put  in  until  a  week  or  two  later.  If  the  soil  is  wet  and  kind 
of  heavy,  make  early  plantings  near  the  surface.  If  well  dried  out, 
they  may  be  planted  at  the  bottom  of  a  trench  4  or  5  in.  deep,  and 
covered  only  1  to  2  in.  deep  at  first,  being  filled  in  as  the  plants  grow. 
Get  the  roots  well  below  the  surface  so  that  they  do  not  feel  so 
quickly  the  effects  of  dry  weather.  A  good,  clean  culture  and  pro- 
tection with  kerosene  emulsion  or  nicotine  spray  (if  the  Pea  louse 
puts  in  an  appearance)  and  getting  the  brush  or  trellis  in  as  soon  as 
the  plants  break  ground  (in  the  case  of  the  tall  or  climbing  varieties) 
are  the  main  points  in  achieving  success  with  this  crop. 

PEPPERS. — The  instructions  given  for  Egg-plants  apply  also  to 
Peppers.  Re  sure,  however,  to  choose  a  variety  or  type  suitable  and 
adapted  to  your  conditions  and  purposes.  In  the  Northern  States, 
it  is  well  to  stick  to  the  earlier  sorts,  unless  you  grow  your  own  plants 
and  can  have  extra  large  ones  ready  for  setting  out.  The  small, 
pungent  varieties  are  grown  for  pickling  and  flavoring,  and  the 
large,  mild  ones  for  stuffed  Peppers  and  other  table  dishes. 

POTATOES.— While  Potatoes  usually  take  up  so  much  room,  and 
again  can  be  bought  so  readily  that  they  do  not  find  a  place  in  the 
small  home  garden,  a  row  or  two  of  extra  early  ones,  as  a  special 
treat  for  the  table  in  July,  should  be  made  room  for.  To  get  the 
earliest  results,  select  good,  clean,  medium  sized  potatoes  of  an 
early  variety,  and*  cut  in  quarters  or  halves,  pushing  the  pieces 
down  into  a  flat  of  sand  till  they  are  nearly  covered  and  as  close 
together  as  they  will  go.  If  these  are  kept  in  a  sunny  place,  protected 
from  frost  and  watered,  the  roots  will  make  a  vigorous  growth, 
while  the  tops  will  remain  very  short  and  stocky,  so  they  will  be 
only  2  to  4  in.  in  length  when  they  are  ready  to  set  out. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


175 


Prepare  the  rows  with  manure  or  fertilizer;  throw  in  a  little  soil,  and 
on  top  of  this  plant  the  Potatoes;  then  cover  them  over  entirely, 
sprouts  and  all,  to  about  3Ain.  deep.  An  astonishing  growth  will 
result  during  the  next  two  or  three  weeks.  Potatoes,  while  vigorous, 
will  not  take  care  of  themselves.  The  ground  should  be  worked 
about  them  frequently,  maintaining  a  soil  mulch,  the  soil  thrown  up 
to  them  a  little  each  time  it  is  worked.  When  they  are  ready  to 


"The  noble  tuber":    what  good  Potatoes  should  look  like 

blossom  they  may  be  hilled  up,  if  the  season  is  wet,  or  the  soil  is 
moist.  Under  some  conditions  however,  they  should  be  given 
practically  level  culture  as  more  moisture  is  maintained  to  develop 
the  growing  tubers.  To  make  sure  of  success,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  protect  the  crop  from  both  the  striped  Potato  beetle  and  early 
and  late  blight.  This  is  done  by  spraying,  every  ten  days  or  so, 
from  the  time  the  plants  are  about  6  in.  high,  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
and  arsenate  of  lead  paste,  or  a  similar  double  purpose  spray. 
PUMPKINS.— A  few  hills  of  sugar  Pumpkins,  planted  in  the  Sweet 
Corn,  among  pole  Beans  or  along  the  edge  of  the  garden,  where  they 
can  run  over  the  grass  or  trained  over  brush,  etc.,  will  give  plenty  of 
material  for  a  number  of  pies.  The  culture  is  the  same  as  that 


176 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


White  MilanSTurnips 


recommended  for 
Winter  Squashes, 
except  that  they 
mature  more 
quickly,  and  can, 
therefore,  be 
planted  later. 
RADISHES.- 
These  are  easily 
grown  in  almost 
any  soil,  but  for 
the  best  quality 
the  soil  should  be 
rather  sandy,  and 

a  good  coating  of  land  plaster  or  gypsum  incorporated  with  it 
before  seed  is  sown.  Avoid  manures  and  fertilizers  rich  in 
nitrogen,  as  these  are  apt  to  cause  misshapen  roots  and  too 
great  leaf  growth  in  proportion.  Two  mistakes  most  often 
made  in  growing  Radishes  are  to  sow  too  many  at  a 
time  and  not  to  thin  them  enough  or  early  enough  to  have 
them  sufficiently  far  apart  in  the  row.  Give  each  plant  room  to 
develop.  Radishes  are  easily  raised  under  glass,  requiring  only  40 
to  45  degrees  temperature.  The  quick  maturing  kinds  may  be  sown 
between  rows  of  Carrots,  Lettuce  or  Beets  and  gathered  before  the 
latter  need  all  the  room.  A  succession  of  roots  in  the  best  of  con- 
dition, either  under  glass  or  outside,  may  be  had  by  sowing  every 
ten  days  or  two  weeks. 

RHUBARB  — Six  to  a  dozen  plants  will  supply  a  medium  sized  family. 
The  soil  should  be  made  very  rich  and  dug  as  deep  as  possible. 
Crowns  taken  from  old  established  clumps  are  usually  used  for 
planting.  Put  them  3  to  4  ft.  apart  each  way.  The  crowns  them- 
selves should  be  planted  quite  shallow,  being  covered  with  about 
4.in.  of  soil.  Plants  set  out  in  the  Spring  will  bear  quite  abundantly 
the  following  season;  or  young  plants  sown  from  seed  in  the  Spring, 
and  transplanted  in  June  to  temporary  rows  in  the  garden,  may  be 
set  out  the  following  Spring  in  their  permanent  place,  which  should 
be,  if  possible,  a  sheltered  spot,  where  they  will  not  interfere  with 
the  cultivation  of  other  things.  Rhubarb,  like  Asparagus,  stores 
much  of  its  early  Spring  plant  food  in  the  thick  root  stalks  over 
Winter.  Therefore,  manuring  or  fertilizing  in  the  Fall  will  help  the 
following  crop.  Dressings  of  nitrate  of  soda  in  Spring  also  produce 
splendid  results,  but  be  easeful  to  keep  it  off  the  leaves. 
RUTABAGA.— The  Swedish  or  Russian  Turnips  differ  from  the  or- 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


177 


dinary  kind  in  that  they  grow  much  larger  and  have  a  longer  season 
in  which  to  mature  properly.  They  should  be  sown  early  in  July. 
As  the  ground  is  frequently  dry  at  this  time,  firm  the  seed  well  in, 
pressing  the  soil  over  the  row  with  the  back  of  a  hoe  or  with  the  sole 
of  the  foot.  Thin  out  to  6  in.  or  more  apart,  according  to  size  of  the 
variety  grown  and  the  richness  of  the  soil. 

SALSIFY. — Salsify,  or  Vegetable  Oyster,  has  a  very  decided  flavor 
from  which  it  gets  its  common  name.  Unless  you  have  used  it  and 
know  you  like  it,  plant  only  a  small  quantity.  Its  culture  is  easy 
as  it  is  free  from  injury  by  either  insects  or  disease.  The  only 
trouble  in  growing  it  is  that  it  tends  to  become  forked  or  sprangled. 
If  possible,  plant  only  on  soil  manured  the  previous  season,  and  avoid 
fertilizers  that  are  rich  in  nitrogen.  It  requires  about  the  same 
season  of  growth  and  about  the  samg  general  culture  as  Parsnips, 
but  the  rows  may  be  put  nearer  together  as  the  foliage  is  not  so  large. 

SEA-KALE,  which  shares  with  Rhubarb  and  Asparagus  the  great 
advantage  of  being  a  perennial  plant,  yielding  year  after  year,  may 
be  grown  easily  from  seed  or  from  sets — pieces  of  the  roots  such  as 
are  used  in  planting  Horse  Radish.  To  grow  from  seed  sow  in  April 
in  drills  about  15  in.  apart,  thinning  out  to  6  in.  Plant  early  the 
following  season 
as  you  would 
Rhubarb,  except 
that  3  ft  will 
be  far  enough 
apart  between 
the  plants.  The 
Spring  growth 
must  be  blanch- 
ed for  use.  This 
is  accomplished 
by  sho.veling 
around  the 
crown  o  f  each 
plant  in  the  Fall 
a  peck  or  so  of 
clean  sand,  and 
then  throwing 
up  over  this,  soil 
from  between 
the  rows.  This 
banking  up  is 

left  in  place  Un-  Very  profitable  for  the  small  garden— Swiss  Chard 


178 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


til  after  the  Spring  growth  has  started;  then  the  soil  is  hoed  or 
shoveled  away,  the  ground  enriched,  with  bone  and  manure,  and 
cultivated  occasionally  during  the  rest  of  the  season,  or  the  plants 
when  grown  may  be  taken  up  and  forced  in  frames,  hotbeds,  or  the 
greenhouse.  In  this  case  they  are  handled  in  much  the  same  way 
as  Witloof  Chicory. 


Tomatoes  trained  to  a  fence 

SPINACH. — As  with  Lettuce  and  some  other  crops,  success  with 
Spinach  depends  largely  on  choosing  a  variety  suitable  for  the  season 
for  which  it  is  wanted.  For  Spring  use  Winter  Spinach  is  sown  the 
previous  Fall  and  carried  over  with  a  mulching  of  hay,  straw  or 
dried  litter.  In  Spring  two  or  three  succession  plantings  can  be 
made  to  maintain  the  supply  until  Summer.  For  Summer  use  sow, 
during  late  May,  New  Zealand  Spinach.  This  is  not  cut  like  other 
varieties,  but  the  leaves  are  gathered  from  the  stem  while  the  plant 
continues  to  grow,  until  hard  frost.  The  Spring  varieties  can  be 
sown  again  for  use  in  the  Fall,  or  under  irrigation  they  grow  readily 
during  Midsummer. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  179 

SQUASH.— These  should  be 
planted  or  started  in  frames, 
as  recommended  for  the 
Cucumbers  and  Melons  al- 
ready  discussed.  [  F  o  r 
earliest  use,  plant  a  few 
hills  of  scalloped  or  crook- 
neck  type  of  Summer  vari- 
ety. These  may  be  had  in  Wire-netting  supports  for  Tomato  plants 

the  bush  form,  thus  taking 

up  very  little  space.  There  are  a  few  varieties,  such  as  Fordhook 
and  Delicata,  which  will  serve, for  both  Summer  and  Whiter  use. 
If  the  plants  are  kept  well  dusted  with  tobacco  or  wood  ashes  during 
the  early  stages  of  growth,  it  will  help  to  discourage  the  appearance 
of  the  insect  likely  to  attack  them.  Success  of  the  late  or  Whiter 
varieties  may  be  made  much  more  certain  by  starting  them  hi  paper 
pots  in  frames  and  setting  out.  The  first  sign  of  the  deadly  Squash 
borer  is  likely  to  be  a  slight  wilting  of  the  leaves  on  a  hot,  bright  day. 
Make  a  thorough  examination  at  once  at  the  base  of  the  stem,  and 
if  you  find  a  small  hole  from  which  a  gummy,  yellowish  matter  has 
exuded,  slit  the  thin  cavity  lengthwise  until  you  find  the  intruder. 
TOMATOES.— Set  out  the  strongest,  stockiest  plants  you  can 
find,  even  if  you  have  to  pay  several  cents  more  apiece  for  them, 
as  soon  as  danger  of  late  frost  is  over.  A  half  handful  or  so  of  bone 
or  guano  in  each  hill  will  produce  a  strong  start.  However, 
a  little  chicken  manure,  or  a  well  rotted  compost  may  be  used  for 
this  purpose.  Set  the  plants  deep,  even  if  you  cover  several  niches 
of  stem,  as  new  roots  will  be  formed  all  the  way  up,  and  you  will 
be  better  prepared,  therefore,  for  dry  weather.  For  garden  Culture 
the  plants  should  be  supported  by  stakes,  a  trellis,  or  the  specially 
prepared  circular  Tomato  supports  now  available.  Set  them  from 
18  in  to  2  ft.  apart,  according  to  method  of  training  to  be  pursued. 
Two  dozen  plants  or  so,  if  they  are  well  cared  for,  will  provide  an 
abundance  of  fruit  for  the  average  family.  To  get  the  earliest  and 
the  smoothest  fruits,  keep  the  vines  tied  up  with  raffia,  strips  of 
cloth,  or  soft  twine,  as  they  grow.  The  side  shoots  or  suckers  should 
be  rubbed  off  as  soon  as  they  appear,  the  plant  being  trained  to  three 
or  four  branches.  By  this  method  the  fruits  which  do  set  will  have 
more  nourishment  and  more  sunshine  than  if  the  vines  are  allowed 
to  grow  bushy.  The  newly  set  plants  must  be  protected  from  cut- 
worms with  paper  collars  or  poison  baits,  but  strong,  pot-grown 
plants  are  likely  to  defy  them,  as  they  are  too  large  and  tough  to  be 
eaten  through  readily.  Just  before  danger  of  frost  pick  all  the 


180  GARDEN  GUIDE 

mature  fruits  and  pack  them  in  straw  in  a  cold  frame  to  ripen  up, 
In  this  way  they  may  be  had  for  several  weeks  after  frost. 

TURNIPS. — Seed  for  the  first  crop  may  be  put  in  as  soon  as  the 
ground  can  be  gotten  ready  in  the  Spring.  As  they  are  at  then- 
best  for  table  use  only  for  a  short  time,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  plant  an 
early  and  a  medium  or  late  variety  about  the  first  of  each  month 
through  the  season;  in  July  a  larger  planting  can  be  made  for  Winter 
use.  While  the  tender  seedlings  are  very  small  when  they  first  come 
up,  they  grow  very  rapidly,  and  unless  thinning  out  is  done  at  once, 
it  is  likely  to  give  the  crop  a  severe  set-back  when  it  is  attended  to. 
Freshly  manured  soil  should  be  avoided,  and  if  there  is  a  spot  in  the 
garden  which  is  light  and  sandy,  it'is  apt  to  produce  roots  of  a  milder 
flavor  than  heavy  soil. 


Mammoth  Sugar  Corn — well-developed  ears 

* 

VEGETABLE  MARROW.— This  is  another  member  of  the  curcubit 
family,  very  similar  in  habit  of  growth  to  the  Summer  Squashes, 
there  being  also  bush,  dwarf  and  running  varieties.  It  is  planted 
and  grown  in  the  same  way.  The  fruits  should  be  used  while  com- 
paratively young. 

WATERCRESS.— There  may  be  opportunities  for  the  cultivation 
of  fresh  young  plants  of  this  delightful,  pungent,  and  health 
giving  salad.  '  It  delights  in  a  slow  running  brook,  but  may  be 
also  cultivated  in  beds  where  there  is  a  very  slight  flow  of  water. 
It  is  easily  raised  from  seeds,  but  more  generally  perhaps  from 
cuttings.  A  bunch  of  the  stems  one  buys  from  a  green-grocer, 
stuck  in  the  wet  soil,  will  root  readily,  and  the  young  tender 
sprouts  from  these  will  furnish  the  supply  throughout  the  Summer. 


CHAPTER  XV 

Home  Canning  of  Fruits  and 
Vegetables 

THE  products  of  our  own  garden  always  taste  better  than  fruit 
which  has  been  canned  in  the  commercial  establishments.  We 
have  grown  the  fruit;  it  is  ours  and  we  like  it. 

Science  always  tells  us  why  we  do  a  thing,  and  it  is  only  by  a 
knowledge  of  why  we  do  things  that  we  get  so  that  we  can  apply  the 
art  of  doing  one  thing  to  the  art  of  doing  another.  As  early  as  the 
seventeenth  century,  persons  began  to  know  that  it  was  very  minute 
plants  and  animals  which  caused  the  spoiling  of  fruits.  These  organ- 
isms induce  fermentation  and  putrefaction,  and  are  of  immense  im- 
portance. They  are  of  three  groups:  First,  molds,  which  appear  as  a 
white,  green  or  black  furry  growth;  they  are  often  present  on  the 
vegetables  at  the  time  we  can  them.  Secondly,  we  have  the  yeasts, 
which  are  familiar  to  every  housewife  who  makes  bread.  These  little 
"plants"  are  invisible  to  the  naked  eye  and  seem  to  like  to  get  into 
all  substances  which  contain  sugar.  They  are  not  usually  there  very 
long  before  they  cause  the  substances  to  become  sour,  the  next  stage 
being  the  production  of  alcohol.  The  air  is  full  of  yeast,  and  it  is  al- 
most always  found  on  ripe  fruit.  The  third  class  consists  of  bacteria. 
When  we  realize  that  sometimes  fifteen  thousand  of  these  pesky  little 
things  can  be  placed  end  to  end  in  an  inch,  we  wonder  how  they  can 
do  so  much  damage,  but  they  are  the  hardest  foes  of  canning  we  have 
to  fight.  These  very  minute  organisms  have  a  power  of  producing  very 
resistant  shelled  spores,  and  they  are  sometimes  not  even  injured  by 
cooking.  If,  however,  after  the  first  boiling,  they  remain  for  a  short 
time,  they  should  soon  start  into  growth;  it  is  then  that  we  kill  them. 

PREPARATION  FOR,  CANNING.  Every  utensil  which  the  house- 
keeper uses,  and  every  vegetable  and  all  the  sugar  and  the  water,  con- 
tain some  form  of  mold,  yeast  or  bacteria.  Our  problem  then  is  to 
take  all  possible  care  that  each  of  our  three  enemies  is  conquered. 

For  absolute  cleanliness  the  soil  must  be  carefully  washed  from 
the  fruit;  over-ripe  fruit  should  never  be  used;  bruised  and  cracked 
fruit  should  be  avoided,  for  it  is  in  the  bruises  and  cracks  that  the 
yeast  and  molds  are  very  prevalent.  All  jars  and  containers  must  be 
thoroughly  scalded  with  boiling  water, 

181 


182 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


In  canning,  we  use  two  terms:  scalding  and  blanching.  Scalding 
means  merely  dipping  fruit  into  boiling  water,  while  blanching  carries 
with  it  the  meaning  of  allowing  the  fruit  to  remain  for  some  tune  in 
this  hot  water.  We  find  scalding  and  blanching  very  beneficial  because 
it  removes  the  dirt  and  organisms  from  our  fruit,  and  it  serves  to  take 
off  certain  slimy  or  sticky  substances  which  are  found  on  some  vege- 
tables and  when  canned  mars  their  beauty.  In  Peaches  and  Tomatoes 
it  is  a  method  of  removing  the  skins;  with  some  other  fruits  it  reduces 
their  bulk  somewhat,  and  avoids  too  great  shrinkage  in  the  jars. 

STERILIZATION  means  the  eliminating  of  all  the  live  molds,  yeasts 
and  bacteria.  With  some  fruits  and  vegetables  it  is  merely  a  short 
boiling.  In  canning  such  tender  fruits  as  Raspberries,  which  should 
have  a  minimum  amount  of  handling,  and  some  of  the  vegetables,  such 
as  Peas,  Beans,  Corn  and  Tomatoes,  which  are  only  canned  with  diffi- 
culty, the  fruits  should  be  placed  in  the  can  and  so  arranged  that  they 
can  be  brought  to  a  boiling  point  on  from  one  to  three  successive  days. 
This  practice  is  based  on  the  fact  that,  as  previously  mentioned,  many 
of  the  bacteria  produce  hard  shell  spores  which  are  not  killed  during 
the  first  boiling. 

From  the  Ontario  Department  of  Agriculture  Bulletin  No.  236, 
we  derive  a  very  useful  time  table  for  the  canning  of  fruits  and  vege- 
tables: 

TIME  TABLE  FOR  FRUITS 


Product 

Treatment 

Scald 
or 
Blanch 

Syrup 

Sterilization 

Sugar 

Water 

Bring  water  to  boil  3^ 

Apples. 

Peel,  core,  halve  or 

1  part 

1  part 

minute.     Allow  jars  to 

quarter. 

stand  in  boiler  20  min. 

Apricots. 

Halve,  pit  or  pack 
whole. 

1  to  2 

mins. 

1  part 

1  part 

Seal  tightly. 
Water  boiling  5  to  10 
mins.  according  to  ripe- 

ness of  fruit. 

Blackberries. 
Blueberries. 

Wash  and  pick  over. 
As  blackberries. 

1  part 

^part 

As  apples. 

Cherries  (Sour). 
Cherries  (Sweet). 
Peaches. 

Wash.-stem  and  pit. 
Wash,  stem  and  pit. 
Skin,  halve  or  quar- 

1 to  2 

1  part 
1  part 
1  part 

^part 
1  part 
1  part 

As  apples. 
As  apples. 
As  apricots. 

ter,     pit    or    pack 

mins. 

whole. 

_ 

Pears. 

Peel,  halve  or  quar- 

1 part 

1  part 

As  apples. 

ter,  core. 

Plums. 

Pack  whole  or  pit. 

1  part 

1  part 

As  apples. 

Raspberries. 
Strawberries. 

Hull. 
Hull. 

1  part 
1  part 

Hpart 
Yz  part 

As  apples. 
As  apples. 

By  this  method  of  intermittent  boiling  the  fruit  is  kept  in  good 
texture  and  shape,  and  the  natural  beauty  is  not  lost.  An  ordinary  wash 
boiler  can  be  converted  into  the  ideal  home  canning  outfit  by  fixing 
a  false  bottom  of  so^me  sort  in  it  upon  which  the  cans  can  be  placed; 


HOME  CANNING  OF  FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES    183 


TIME  TABLE  FOR  VEGETABLES 


Product 

*Treatment 

Blanch 

Sterilization 

Asparagus. 

Beans  (String). 
Corn  (Off  cob). 
Peas. 
Tomatoes. 

Wash,  cut  to  jar  length. 

String,  cut  up  or  pack  whole. 
Cut  from  cob  after  blanching. 
Hull. 
Skin,  core,  halve  or  quarter. 

5  to    7  min. 

5  to  10  min. 
10  to  15  min. 
5  to  10  min. 
1  to    2  min. 

30   min.    on   3   suc- 
cessive days. 
As  asparagus. 
As  asparagus. 
As  asparagus. 
15  min.  on  3  daysf 

*Salting  to  taste. 

f20  minutes  on  2  days  has  been  successful,  but  cannot  be  recommended  without  reserve. 

enough  water  is  used  in  the  boiler  to  come  within  an  inch  or  two  above 
the  false  bottom ;  the  steam  will  do  the  heating  as  well  as  would  filling  the 
boilers  full  of  water.  The  tops  of  the  jars  of  fruit  are  slightly  loosened 
before  placing  hi  the  boiler  in  order  to  allow  for  expansion,  but  the 
boiler  should  have  a  very  close  fitting  cover  which  will  prevent  un- 
necessary loss  of  steam. 

Many  of  the  larger  fruits  are  canned  by  merely  cooking  in  a  syrup. 
For  Peaches  and  Pears,  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  quart  of  water 
should  be  used  for  every  four  pounds  of  fruit.  For  smaller  fruits,  use 
one-half  pound  sugar  for  every  pound  of  fruit,  and  let  stand  two  hours 
before  cooking.  Bring  the  small  fruits  to  a  boiling  point  only.  The 
large  fruits,  as  soon  as  pared,  should  be  thrown  in  cold  water  to  prevent 
discoloration.  When  a  sufficient  quantity  is  prepared  they  can  be 
placed  in  the  boiling  syrup  and  allowed  to  cook  until  they  are  easily 
pierced  with  a  straw. 

Large-mouthed  jars  should  be  used  for  canning.  They  should  be 
placed  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  and  brought  to  the  boiling  point  while  the 
fruit  is  being  prepared.  When  the  fruit  has  been  sufficiently  cooked, 
take  the  jars  out  of  the  boiling  water,  stand  on  a  folded  towel,  put  the 
fruit  in  the  jars  through  a  wide-mouthed  funnel,  filling  jars  until  they 
overflow.  In  order  to  get  all  of  the  air  bubbles  out  of  the  cans  an  ex- 
cellent method  is  to  run  a  spoon  handle  inside  of  the  jar  until  they  are 
all  gone,  then  the  can  must  be  filled  until  it  overflows  again  and  sealed 
very  quickly. 

All  of  the  canning  utensils  should  be  kept  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water 
and  never  aUowed  to  get  cold.  After  sealing  tightly,  the  cans  should 
be  placed  upside  down  and  allowed  to  cool  slowly.  All  cans  which  be- 
gin to  ferment  and  bubble  should  be  boiled  again/  When  you  are  sure 
that  the  fruit  is  properly  sealed  and  that  none  of  the  cans  are  going  to 
work,  the  jars  should  be  wiped  a  little  and  placed  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 
All  canned  products  which  contain  sugar  are  decomposed  by  sunlight, 
so  that  it  is  best  to  keep  canned  fruit  in  a  place  which  is  dark. 

In  the  making  of  jams,  jellies  and  preserves,  fruit  and  sugar  should 
be  used  pound  for  pound.  Always  heat  the  sugar  before  adding  to  the 


184 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


strained  juice,  which  should  have  boiled  for  forty  minutes;  stir  only 
long  enough  to  dissolve  the  sugar  and  test  for  jelly. 

We  would  advise  that  the  so-called  preservative  powder  should 
not  be  used.  Small  doses  are  not  immediately  harmful  to  the  healthy 
adult,  but  for  children  and  invalids,  or  in  larger  doses,  the  effects  are 
dangerous,  and  for  these  reasons,  although  these  powders  prevent 
spoiling,  they  should  not  be  employed.  , 


CHAPTER  XVI 

Pruning 

PRUNING,  when  practised  properly,  is  an  aid  to  trees  and  shrubs. 
It  not  only  stimulates  growth,  but  increases  fruitfulness  at 

certain  seasons;  it  keeps  the  plant  full  of  healthy,  disease- 
resistant  growth,  and  gives  us  the  privilege  of  changing  the  habit. 
We  do  admire  symmetrical,  dense  trees,  graceful  shrubs  or  stocky 
hedges,  all  of  which  are  maintained  by  pruning.  Many  times  we 
even  admire  the  picturesque  results  that  can  be  obtained  by  making 
a  tree  grow  out  of  its  natural  development.  Pruning  does  stimulate 
growth  because  it  tends  to  send  the  energy  to  the  part  of  the  plant 
in  which  it  is  most  wanted.  It  is  well  known  that  a  pruned  plant 
inclines  to  resume  its  natural  habit  and  that  there  is  always  a  ten- 
dency to  grow  from  upper  buds.  Checking  growth  usually  causes 
an  increase  in  flower,  production. 

Besides  the  general  removal  of  large  branches,  pruning  includes 
the  process  of  pinching,  or  removing  undeveloped  eyes  to  check  growth 
in  a  certain  direction;  trimming,  shortening  top  and  roots  at  trans- 
planting; topping,  removing  the  leader  or  a  flower  stalk  to  retain  the 
energy  in  the  plant  rather  than  in  making  a  strong  leader  or  seeds; 
suckering,  the  removing  of  shoots  at  base  of  plant  to  throw  the  strength 
into  the  plant  itself.  This  would  include  the  cutting  of  shoots  from 
the  stock  in  grafted  plants;  disbudding,  removing  of  small  buds  at 
sides  of  main  ones  to  throw  the  food  into  the  perfect  production  of 
the  larger  flower;  ringing,  the  cutting  out  of  a  narrow  ring  of  bark  from 
a  branch  of  a  tree  (in  the  case  of  fruit  the  result  is  the  production  of  a 
large  specimen  due  to  the  fact  that  the  food  is  all  kept  at  the  place 
beyond  the  ring) ;  root-pruning,  the  cutting  of  roots  at  planting  time 
so  that  they  may  be  symmetrical  and  have  clean,  undecayed  surfaces, 
but  the  top  .must  always  be  shortened  proportionately  when  this  is 
done;  sprouting,  the  cutting  out  of  all  sterile,  unfruitful  branches, 
which  are  usually  called  water  sprouts. 

ROSES.  If  we  observe  Rose  bushes  we  will  be  able  to  see  that 
they  bloom  from  what  were  the  strong  shoots  the  previous  season, 
and  that  these  shoots  become  weaker  when  another  shoot  begins  to 
grow  lower  down.  There  is  an  annual  renewal  of  wood,  therefore, 
and  this  is  why  pruning  is  necessary.  Most  Roses  must  be  pruned 
severely  at  planting.  Some  climbers  are  ruined  from  the  start  by  too 

185 


186 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


little  pruning.  In  order  to  keep  the  bushes  open  nicely,  the  cut  must 
always  be  made  to  an  outside  bud.  Take  care  not  to  leave  stubs  above 
a  bud  either;  the  tips  always  die  back  and  may  die  back  farther  than 
preferred. 

BRIERS  AND  ROSES  FOR  LANDSCAPE  EFFECT.  Those  Roses  which  are 
to  be  seen  in  mass  and  with  which  a  profusion  of  bloom  is  to  be 
preferred  to  a  few  slightly  larger  blooms  should  be  pruned  but 
little.  The  main  work  is  to  improve  the  shape  of  the  bush  and  cut 
out  the  very  oldest  wood.  Wood  which  has  flowered  year  after 
year  should  be  cut  out  from  the  base  of  the  plant  so  that  the  younger 
shoots  may  be  given  a  chance.  Prune  hi  March. 
CLIMBING  AND  POLYANTHA  ROSES.  When  the  new  season's  growth  is 
completed:  cut  out  the  old  stems  which  have  flowered.  Little 
pruning  is  necessary  in  Spring  except  to  cut  out  any  branches 
which  have  been  killed.  The  old  wood  can  usually  be  gradually 
removed  year  after  year.  All  new  canes  should  be  carefully  tied 
up.  Prune  in  March. 

HYBRID  PERPETUALS.  Various  soils  and  climates  cause  the  hybrid 
perpetuals  to  be  either  very  tall  bushes  or,  hi  other  localities,  only 
to  attain  a  height  of  three  feet.  The  varieties  differ  greatly  in 

height  and  amount  of  pruning 
needed.  The  weakest  shoots  should 
be  pruned  the  most  severely;  in  the 
same  way  the  strongest  varieties 
need  the  least  pruning.  Never  leave 
a  weak  shoot.  Care  must  be  exer- 
cised that  all  shoots  are  not  pruned 
to  the  same  height.  Prune  early  in 
Spring  for  main  pruning,  because 
the  shoots  are  apt  to  freeze  back  if 
done  in  Fall  or  Winter.  The  canes 
of  the  strongest  varieties,  which  may 
be  eight  or  nine  feet  long,  should 
be  shortened  a  third  in  Autumn  to 
prevent  the  injurious  whipping  by 
the  Autumn  winds. 

HYBRID  TEAS.  The  hybrid  teas  should 
hardly  be  pruned  as  severely  as  the 
hybrid  perpetuals,  otherwise  the 
treatment  is  the  same. 
THE  TEAS  often  freeze  back  to  the  soil; 
if  so,  remove  all  wood  which  is  the 
least  bit  browned.  Take  care  to 


PRUNING  A  DWARF  ROSE 
The  dotted  lines  show  the 
growth  or  stems  that  are  to  be 
cut  away.  As  a  rule  amateur 
gardeners  are  too  much  afraid 
to  prune  hard.  "The  weaker 
the  growth  the  harder  the 
pruning,"  is  ajfairly  safe  rule  to 
follow 


PRUNING 


187 


prune  very  severely;  the  plants 
will  appreciate  it  and  reciprocate 
by  producing  good  blooms.  All 
shoots  which  live  through  the 
Winter  should  be  shortened  one- 
third.  Never  make  the  mistake 
of  thinking  that  there  is  so  little 
bush  left  that  it  will  be. best  not 
to  prune  at  all.  Nothing  could 
be  more  faulty.  Teas  must  be 
carefully  watched  for  suckers  from 
the  stock,  which  should  be  re- 
moved from  their  point  of  origin. 
The  leaflets  of  the  stock  are  often 
paler  green  and  not  so  glossy, 
and  have  five  to  seven  leaflets  in- 
stead of  three  to  five  as  with  many 
varieties.  Never  prune  before 
eyes  start  and  some  may  be  frozen 
back  if  done  too  early. 


PRUNING  SHRUBS 

1,  An  unpruned  example.  2,  Pruned  so  that  all  the  branches  are  of  equal  length. 
This  is  improper  but  all  too  commonly  practiced.  3,  Growths  thinned  out  and 
shortened.  This  is  the  correct  method.  It  is  the  same  shrub  in  each  case 

SHRUBS.  There  are  essentially  two  classes  of  shrubs — the  Spring 
and  the  Summer  blooming  ones.  Those  which  bloom  in  the  Spring 
have  their  flower  buds  all  formed  on  the  bushes  by  the  previous 
Autumn;  they  are  usually  near  the  top  of  the  plant.  Any  pruning  in 
late  Winter  or  early  Spring  causes  a  removal  of  these  flowers. 


188 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


The  most  pernicious  habit 
is  the  one  which  so  many  en- 
thusiastic gardeners  have  of 
pruning  everything  in  the 
Spring,  and  not  only  that,  but 
making  the  graceful  Barberries, 
Spiraeas,  and  Mock  Oranges 
into  formal,  stiff  shapes,  due 
entirely  to  cutting  their  bushes 
with  shoots  all  the  same  length. 

Many  Spiraeas  and  Golden 
Bells  never  bloom  well,  while 
the  Hydrangea  blooms  per- 
fectly, merely  because  every- 
one prunes  in  the  early  Spring, 
not  at  all  the  proper  time  for 
Golden  Bells  or  Spiraeas  but 
exactly  proper  for  Hydrangeas. 
Spring  blooming  shrubs  must 


YOUNG   TREES   PRUNED 
One  at  the  left  pruned  properly,  the  head 
started  low  and  branches  well  distributed. 
One  at  right — head    too   high,    branches 
form  a  crotch  and  tree  is  not  balanced 


be  headed  in  a  trifle  after  flowering, 
which  will  cause  the  production  of 
flowering  wood  for  another  year. 

HEDGES.  A  hedge,  in  order  to  give 
the  best  light  conditions  to  the  lower 
branches,  should  be  broad  at  the  bot- 
tom and  narrower  at  the  top.  It  is 
best  not  to  be  flat  on  top  for  snow 
quickly  lodges  in  this  sort  of  hedge  and 
spreads  it  so  that  the  true  beauty  is 
spoiled.  Hedges  should  be  trimmed  be- 
fore growth  starts  in  the  Spring  and 
again  lightly  in  late  Summer  or  Fall. 
The  young  growth  is  best  kept  its 
proper  length  before  it  grows  very  long, 
otherwise  the  cut  ends  of  the  branches 
are  large  and  over  conspicuous. 


PRUNING   A  LIMB 

a,  Branch  cut  off  too  long,  b,  The  branch  (a)  after  several  years,  has  died  back  but 

cannot  heal,     c,  A  branch  cut  properly,     d,  A  branch  which  is  cut  so  that  a  little 

pocket  is  left  in  which  water  can  settle  and  cause  decay,    e,  A  wound  healing 

properly,    f ,  A  branch  being  strangled  by  a  wire-tie 


PRUNING 


189 


FRUIT  TREES.  In  pruning  fruit  trees  for  home '  grounds  there 
should  be  an  effort  to  keep  them  always  low  headed  and  open.  This 
means  that  from  the  start  the  branches  should  be  encouraged  to  grow 
out  from  the  main  trunk.  Avoid  allowing  the  branches  to  start  so 
that  a  crotch  is  formed  and  have  them  distributed  around  the  tree  so 
that  when  they  bear  fruit  there  will  be  a  natural  balance.  As  the 
years  pass,  less  pruning  is  necessary  on  fruit  trees,  except  to  keep  the 
center  open  so  that  some  light  can  get  in  to  color  the  fruit.  Dead  or 
crowded  branches  must  be  removed.  Any  appearance  of  disease  is 
better  cut  out  than  any  treatment  that  can  be  given  it.  A  tree  once 
in  good  bearing  condition  seldom  needs  extensive  pruning. 

EVERGREENS  need  little  pruning  except  to  correct  any  lack  of 
uniformity  of  growth.  Many  times  in  Pines,  among  the  young 
growths  some  appear  to  be  away  ahead  of  others;  if  care  is  exercised 
they  may  be  slightly  pinched  to  check  growth  in  that  direction.  Even 
if  the  leader  of  Spruces  or  Firs  is  lost,  they  seem  capable  of  making  a 
new  one.  Much  can  be  done  by  staking  and  training  of  evergreens, 
assisted  by  pruning.  The  latter  operation  may  lead  to  gumming  if 
done  carelessly  or  at  an  improper  time. 


Name 

How   to    Prune 

When 

AKEBIA 

Give  only  a  little  pruning. 

July 

AMORPHA  FRUTESCENS 

Jan.-Mar. 

APPLE 

Requires  pruning  each  year.  For  home  gar- 

Feb.-Mar. 

den  Apple  tree  heads  should  be  low  so  that 

the  fruit  may  be  readily  picked.     Keep  the 

tree  open    in    center     by     removing     all 

branches  which  interfere,  those  which  cross 

or  shade  each  other. 

AZALEA  GHENT  and  MOLLIS 

Remove  old  wood. 

July 

BERBERIS  THUNBERGII 

Remove    only    strongest    shoots    to    retain 

July 

VULGARIS 

form. 

BLACKBERRIES 

(See  RASPBERRIES) 

CELASTRUS 

July 

CERASUS,  Ornamental 

July 

CERCIS  CANADENSIS 

JAPONICA 

July 

CHERRY,  Sour 

Need  little     pruning     except     to     remove 

Feb.-Mar. 

branches  which  are  crossed  or  broken. 

CHERRY,  Sweet 

Keep  head  low  because  they  have  tendency 

Feb.-Mar. 

to    grow    tall,    and  also    to    prevent  the 

damage  often  caused  by  sun  and  wind. 

CHIONANTHUS  VIRGINICA 

Requires  very  little  pruning. 

July 

CLEMATIS 

Rather  vigorous  pruning. 

Jan.-Mar. 

COLUTEA  ARBORESCENS 

Jan.-Mar. 

CRAT^BGUS.OXYACANTHA 
CURRANTS 

Canes  bear  two  or  three  times,  cut  out  few 

July 
Feb.-Mar. 

oldest  canes  each  year,  otherwise  fruit  be- 

Late Summer 

comes  small. 

DEUTZIAS 

Unless  over  long  do  not  cut  back  shoots. 

July 

DOGWOOD 

July 

DWARF  HORSE  CHESTNUT 

Jan.-Mar. 

EL^AGNUS  LONGIPES 

Needs  to  be  looked  over  each  year  for  re- 
moval of  old  wood  and  straggling  branches. 

July 

190 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Name 


How  to  Prune 


When 


EXOCHORDA  GRANDIFLORA 

(See  Pearl  Bush) 
FLOWERING  CURRANT 

(Ribes  aureum) 
FLOWERING  PLUM 
FORSYTHIAS 
FRINGE  TREE 

(See  Chionanthus) 
GOLDEN  BELL 

(See  Forsythia) 
GOLDEN  CHAIN 

(See  Laburnum) 
GOOSEBERRIES 


GRAPES 


(See  illttstration  on 
page  141.) 


HIBISCUS  SYRIACUS 

(See  Rose  of  Sharon) 
HONEYSUCKLES 


HONEYSUCKLE 
LONICERA  FRAGRANTISSIMA 
LONICERA  STANDISHII 

HYDRANGEA 


HYDRANGEA  PANICULATA 


Cut  back  just  after  flowering. 

Encourage  vigorous  young  growth, 
out  older  wood. 


Trim 


Thin  put  branches  and  trim  back  others  im- 
mediately after  flowering. 


Remove  oldest  shoots  annually.  In  July  or 
Aug.  cut  back  each  a  bit;  it  causes  more 
fruit  buds  to  form. 

Persons  who  have  inherited  tangles  of  Grape 
vines  should  exercise  care  in  pruning  the 
first  year.  Do  not  remove  too  much  at  the 
start,  otherwise  no  Grapes  will  be  pro- 
duced. When  possible,  all  untrained  vines 
should  be  pruned  back  to  a  single  eye  if  the 
vines  are  very  large,  but  two  eyes  may  be 
left  if  the  vines  are  quite  small.  When  the 
Grapes  have  nicely  set  we  seem  to  think 
that  they  are  benefited  by  cutting  off  the 
tips  of  each  bearing  cane  two  leaves  away 
from  each  bunch.  The  canes  usually  branch 
in  this  case,  and  they  may  be  cut  back  a 
little  even  then.  Should  one  acquire  or 
have  to  buy  new  vines,  it  is  well  to  have  a 
definite  simple  system  of  training.  Grapes 
at  planting  and  the  year  after  should  have 
the  vines  cut  back  two  to  three  eyes.  Then 
head  back  to  20  to  24  in.  long.  Several  sys- 
tems of  training  are  good. 

Kieffen  System.  Good  if  wind  is  not  too[ 
strong;  simple.  Single  trunk  is  carried  to 
the  upper  of  two  wires  and  two  canes  are 
taken  out  at  an  eye  for  each  wire.  Each 
year  all  the  canes  are  removed  except  a 
shoot  from  each;  spurs  are  chosen  from  the 
trunk.  A  vine  may  carry  40  buds  usually. 
The  fruit  canes  are  produced  on  shoots  of 
previous  year's  growth. 

Chautauqua  System.  Two  short,  permanent 
branches  are  established  at  the  lower 
wire;  two  or  three  canes  are  left  on  each 
arm  and  tied  up  to  upper  wire; 
these  canes  are  renewed  each  year 
from  buds  at  their  base.  When  arms  get 
too  old,  new  ones  are  easily  established. 


The  climbers  and  the  bush  Honeysuckles, 
except  Spring  flowering  Standishii  and 
fragrantissima. 


Hydrangeas  bloom  upon  wood  produced  the 
current  season  from  older  wood.  They 
must,  therefore,  not  be  cut  down  wholly  to 
the  ground,  otherwise  they  bloom  poorly. 

These  shrubs  should  be  large  because  they 
are  old;  they  should  not  be  allowed  to  get 
into  a  monstrous  size  when  young;  their 
beauty  is  entirely  spoiled  by  such  treat- 
ment. If  one  does  not  admire  the  flower 
stalks,  they  are  best  pruned  in  Nov. 


July 
July 


Late  Summer 
Jan.-Mar 


Jan.-Mar. 

July 

Jan.-Mar. 

Jan.-Mar. 


PRUNING 


191 


Name 

How  to  Prune 

When 

INDIAN  CURRANT 

Jan.-Mar. 

JAPANESE  QUINCES 

July 

KERRIA  JAPONICA 

Jan.-Mar. 

KOELREUTERIA  PANICULATA 
LABURNUM  VULGARE 

Require  only  that  old  wood  shall  be  removed. 
Shorten  any  straggling   shoots   after  flow- 

July 
July 

ering. 

LIGUSTRUMS 

Jan.-Mar. 

LILAC 

Prune  out  old  wood  if  specimen  flowers  are 

July. 

preferred,  also  prune  out  all  the  sprouts  from 

the  base. 

MAGNOLIAS 

Require  only  that  old  wood  shall  be  re- 

July. 

moved.  Tar  over  all  scars. 

MAHONIA  AQUIFOLIA 

Require  only  that  old  wood  shall  be  removed. 

July. 

MATRIMONY  VINE 

Jan.-Mar. 

MOUNTAIN  LAUREL 

Requires  only  that  old  wood  should  be  re- 

moved. 

NEVIUSA  ALABAMENSIS 

July 

P.SONIA   MOUTAN 

July 

PA  VIA  (See  Dwarf  Chestnut) 

\ 


Pruning  Raspberry  canes 


PEAC 


PEAR 

PEARL  BUSH 

PHILADELPHUS 

PLUM 

PRIVET  (See  Hedges) 
PRUNUS 

Double  flowering  Almond 

Dwf.  dbl.  flowering  Almond 

P.  tomentosa 

P.  triloba 
QUINCES 

RASPBERRIES,  Black 


The  Peach  bears  on  shoots  of  previous  year. 
The  tree  must,  therefore,  never  be  headed 
back;  whole  branches  should  be  removed 
when  pruning.  Heading  in  does  cause  pro- 
duction of  new  wood  but  method  advised 
is  better. 

Low  heads,  keeping  them  open  if  possible. 
Keep  all  branches  free  from  water  sprouts. 


Moderate  pruning  to  remove  old  branches 
and  new  ones  if  tree  becomes  overloaded. 


Head  very  low.     Cut  back  ends  of  branches. 
Fruit  borne  on  wood  of  current  season. 

Bear  on  wood  which  grew  previous  year. 
Remove  all  shoots  except  6-8  in  Spring. 
Head  back  all  long  shoots  in  Summer;  this 
causes  them  to  branch  thus  bearing  more 
fruit.  Cut  out  all  canes  which  have  borne 
in  late  Summer. 


Feb.-Mar. 


Feb.-Mar. 

July 

Jan.-Mar. 

Feb.-Mar. 


July. 


Feb.-Mar. 

Spring  or  late 
Summer 


192 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Name 

How  to  Prune 

When 

RASPBERRIES,  Red 

Remove    old   canes   after   fruiting.      Leave 

July-Mar. 

young  canes  till  Spring.    Do  not  head  back 

as  with  Blackberries,  or  black  Raspberries, 

suckers  start  too  freely.    Early  Spring  clip 

back  ends  of  shoots  so  that  canes  are  30-36 

in.  long  or  do  not  prune  if  trained  on  trellis. 

RED  BUD 

July 

RHODODENDRONS 

Remove  oldest  wood;  remove  seed  pods. 

uly. 

RHODOTYPOS  KERRIOIDES 

uly 

RIBES  (See  Blackberries  and 

Raspberries) 

ROSE  OF  SHARON 

Jan.-Mar. 

SNOWBALL 

This  is  naturally  a  badly  shaped  shrub;  prune 

July 

(Viburnum  Opulus  sterilis) 

to  improve  form. 

SNOWBERRY 

Jan.-Mar. 

SPIRAEA  VAN  HOUTTEI 

Remove  old  wood;  shear  off  old  seed  cap- 

July 

sules.     Cut   away   half  the  branches  that 

have  bloomed. 

SPIRAEA  THUNBERGII 

In  north  the  tips  freeze;  they  need  a  little 

July 

Spring  pruning.     Main  pruning  after  flow- 

ering. 

SPIRAEAS 

Thin  them  out  in  winter.     Cut  back  shoots 

Jan.-Mar. 

(Summer-blooming) 
STAPHYLEA  TRIPOLI  AT  A 
TAMARIX 

that  have  flowered. 
Require  only  that  old  wood  shall  be  removed. 
Prune  hard  back. 

July 

Jan.-Mar. 

VARNISH  TREE 

(See  Koelreuteria) 

VIBURNUM 

Includes  Hoble  Bush,  Arrowwood,  Snowball. 

July 

WEIGELA  (DIERVILLA) 

Cut  out  old  wood.    Remove  seed  vessels. 

July 

WISTARIA 

July 

WITCH  HAZEL 

July 

No  gardener  should  be  without  secateurs,  as  shown  in  this  drawing.     Some 

professional  gardeners  prefer  a  pruning  knife  as  it  makes  a  cleaner  cut,  especially 

if  the  wood  or  twig  is  soft  andfpithy.    The  secateurs,  however,  are  handy,  strong, 

quick  and  easy  to  use. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

Enemies  of  Plants 

WE  wish  to  say  just  a  few  words  in  regard  to  the  enemy.  There 
is  such  a  diversity  of  little  complaints  of  plants  that  we  prefer 
not  to  present  elaborate  discussions  of  the  way  insects  and 
diseases  ravage  the  garden.  The  main  method  for  controlling  these 
pests  is  to  prevent  them  by  the  strictest  sanitation.  All  diseased  or 
insect-infested  parts  must  be  burned;  such  stock  must  never  be  planted 
in  your  clean  garden  or  allowed  to  remain  there  if  it  has  already  started. 
Land  which  is  known  to  be  infested  with  various  pests  must  be  avoided. 
Standard  remedies  should  be  at  hand,  and  sprays  applied  upon  the 
lirst  signal  of  trouble.  By  the  way,  a  method  for  spraying  the  plants 
is  essential.  Get  a  good  knapsack  sprayer  if  you  have  a  large  garden, 
and  if  a  smaller  garden  buy  one  of  the  sprayers  which  resemble  a  squirt 
gun.  Good  force  is  half  the  battle.  Loaded  with  water  alone  it  will 
do  much  to  keep  the  plant  lice  from  getting  a  first  hold.  The  best 
sprayer  is  the  one  that  throws  a  fine  spray  the  longest  distance. 

Keep  down  weeds  which  harbor  diseases  and  insects.  A  method 
which  must  not  be  scorned  is  hand  picking  when  possible.  Anything 
which  contributes  toward  the  best  culture  of  the  plant  will  be  found  a 
control  for  the  enemies  as  well.  If  you  have  questions  as  to  just  how 
to  control  any  of  the  various  maladies,  consult  your  seedsman,  florist, 
nurseryman  or  the  editor  of  your  favorite  garden  paper. 

INSECTS 

Most  of  the  miserable  "bugs,"  so-called,  are  of  two  sorts — those 
which  eat  the  leaves  and  those  which  merely  puncture  the  leaf  to  suck 
out  the  juice.  The  gardener  should  become  more  familiar  with  the 
ways  of  the  insects,  for  some  are  valuable  and  should  be  admirjed. 
Those  who  have  read  Sir  John  Lubbock,  Faber  or  Maeterlinck  realize 
that  the  insect  world  is  quite  as  romantic  as  our  own. 

Some  of  these  insects  are  found  on  the  roots,  in  which  case  the 
plants  affected  are  thought  to  be  diseased.  Some  of  these  insects  ac- 
tually chew  the  roots,  while  others  suck  out  the  sap.  The  root  lice  may 
be  controlled  by  watering  the  plants  with  tobacco  water.  The  Cab- 
bage maggot  can  be  prevented  by  placing  a  collar  of  tarred  paper  about 
the  young  plants. 

193 


194 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Another  lot  of  insects  are  borers.  They  burrow  into  the  stalks, 
the  bark  and  solid  wood  of  branches,  and  even  the  trunks  of  trees. 
The  fruit  trees  are  especially  attacked  by  these  borers.  Peaches, 
Apples.  Currants,  Gooseberries,  Raspberries,  Blackberries,  Roses, 
China  Asters,  Squashes  and  many  other  plants  are  so  affected.  They 
must  be  dug  out.  Insecticides  are  hard  to  apply  for  any  good  effect. 

Other  insects 
prefer  the  leaves 
and  buds  of  plants. 
This  class  is  the 
easiest  to  control. 
Do  not  be  over 
worried  by  insects 
— merely  take  the 
time  required  for 
Head  of  biting  insect-  any  worry  and  use 

note    jaws,     large    com- 
pound eyes,  and  the  feel- 
ers near  jaws  and  eyes 


A    sucking    insect — note 

the      formidable     beak, 

usedl  to    pierce     plants 

and  extract  juices 


it  to  apply  effec- 
tive insecticides. 
As  in  medical  work, 

there  is  no    panacea   for  all    ills,  but    it    is    not     dangerous    to 

make     one     general     sweeping     statement     about     their    control. 

It  is  this:    Sucking  insects  are  seldom  poisoned  by  insecticides;  their 

breathing  pores  along  the  sides  of  their  bodies  must  be  touched  and 

filled  with  the  fluid;  they  are  controlled  by  contact  insecticides.    Chew- 

ing insects  greedily  eat  the  leaves  which,  if  covered  with  a  poison,  will 

kill  them. 

INSECTICIDES.    The  following  are  good  contact  insecticides  and 

are  effective  against  sucking  insects  such  as  the  various  scales,  plant 

lice,  blister  mite,  thrips. 

Soap  Solutions.    A  fish  oil 

soap  is  best,  but  white  soap 

can  be  used  to  make  a  good 

spray.    Useful  for  plant  lice. 

Dish  water  will    often   keep 

them  nicely  in  control. 


The  upper  figure  shows  an  ordinary  brass 
garden  syringe.  Be  sure  to  buy  a  good 
article  to  begin  with;  it  pays.  The  lower 

fifture  shows  a  brass  vaporizing  8prayer. 

This  is  just  what  is  needed  for  applying 
liquid  insecticides  and  fungicides 


r.         OTL  Tirir 

Lime  Sulphur.      Useful  tor 

Tnitp       San      Tn<;p     anrl 

mite,    oa  i    jo,  i 

Other  Scales  applied  when  trees 

are  resting. 

Emulsions  are  near  solutions  of  some  oil  and  a  soap  solution. 
Good  for  plant  lice  and  scale  insects.  Kerosene  emulsion  consists  of: 
Hard,  soft,  or  whale-oil  soap,  quarter  pound;  water,  two  quarts;  kero- 


ENEMIES  OF  PLANTS 


195 


sene,  one  gallon.  Dissolve  soap  in  hot  water  while  still  hot  but  removed 
from  fire;  add  kerosene  and  pump  back  and  forth  till  it  becomes  a 
creamy  mass.  If  made  properly  the  solution  will  not  separate  upon 
cooling.  When  using,  dilute  with  ten  to  fifteen  parts  water. 

Tobacco.  The  various  forms  of  to- 
bacco extracts  as  a  spray  or  powder,  are 
the  most  useful  against  plant  lice. 

Pyrethrum  is  the  dried  and  powdered 
flowers  of  a  certain  Chrysanthemum,  and 
is  useful  against  thrips  and  plant  lice.  Asa 
dust  it  is  applied  while  foliage  is 
moist.  -' 

POISONOUS  INSECTICIDES. 
Use  for  chewing  insects,  slugs, 
cut-worms,  maggots,  caterpillars. 
and  most  insects  called  worms. 
The  most  used  substance  for  this 

f  i    .  .  A  useful  hand-pump  spray  engine  suitable 

type  Of  Control  IS   arsenic.  for  larger  spraying  operations 

Arsenate  of  Lead.    This  sub- 

stance is  used  at  various  strengths,  depending  on  the  plant  affected 
and  the  insect  working.  It  is  now  the  most  used  remedy  for  cater- 
pillars, slugs,  maggots  and  worms  feeding  upon  the  foliage  of  plants. 

Paris  Green.  Has  same  use  as  arsenate  of  lead,  but  is  not  quite 
so  effective. 

Hellebore.  This  is  procured  as  a  powder.  It  is  much  less  poison- 
ous than  arsenical  insecticides  and  is  very  useful  upon  ripening  fruits, 
especially  for  the  Currant  worm.  It  is  applied  when  dew  is  on  the 
plants.  For  worms  on  Currant  and  Gooseberry  bushes  sprinkle 
slaked  lime  very  lightly. 

Slugs  and  cutworms  are  easily  controlled  by  distributing  a 
poison  bait  over  the  garden  or  in  little  piles  under  the  plants.  Use 
wheat  bran  mixed  with  a  little  Paris  green  or  arsenic  and  some 
syrup.  Mix  thoroughly  and  scatter  about  just  after  dark. 

DISEASES 

"Whenever  the  normal  functions  of  plants  are  interfered  with,  the 
plant  is  diseased,"  says  Dr.  Freeman  of  the  University  of  Minnesota. 
But  many  of  the  garden  troubles  are  not  true  diseases.  Plants  become 
yellow  because  they  are  getting  too  much  water  or  too  little  or,  per- 
haps, their  roots  are  affected  by  some  insect,  or  perhaps  the  soil  is  too 
poor  or  too  rich.  Real  diseases  are  caused  by  certain  fungi  and  germs. 
They  affect  parts  of  plants  and  may  be  prevented  from  spreading,  but 
the  affected  parts  cannot  be  cured. 


196  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Most  of  the  substances  used  against  diseases  contain  sulphur  or 
copper.  For  diseases  on  surface,  appearing  like  very  fine  dust,  the  best 
substance  to  apply  is  flowers  of  sulphur.  For  other  sorts  of  troubles 
sprays  seem  better,  since  they  can  be  distributed  more  evenly.  Bor- 
deaux mixture  is  the  standard  substance  to  use  upon  perennials  just  as 
they  come  up  in  the  Spring,  but  as  it  discolors  the  foliage,  ammoniacal 
copper  carbonate  and  other  substances  are  used  when  the  plants  are 
in  more  advanced  growth. 

Most  diseases  must  be  sprayed  several  times,  otherwise  the  treat- 
ment will  be  ineffective. 

The  matter  of  strict  sanitation  cannot  be  too  often  emphasized. 
To  be  specific,  be  sure  that  mummy  fruits  do  not  hang  on  the  trees  or 
lie  on  the  ground;  gather  all  such  disease  breeding  nuisances  and  put 
them  far  away  from  the  fruit  trees.  Certain  of  the  weeds  harbor 
diseases  which  are  common  upon  the  cultivated  plants;  such  weeds  as 
Mallow  should  be  destroyed,  because  they  harbor  Hollyhock  rust. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

Winter  Protection 


THAT  plants  or  shrubs  may  withstand  the  cold,  we  protect  them; 
but  it  is  mainly  to  shield  them  from  the  Winter  sun.    Or  some 
plants  may  be  heaved  from  the  soil  by  frosts;  when  thoroughly 
protected  such  heaving  does  not  take  place. 

Many  of  the  perennials  are  benefited  by  a  protection  in  Winter. 
The  sort  of  protection  perennials  need  is  one  which  will  shield  them 
from  Winter  and  earliest  Spring  suns,  which  start  the  plants  into 
growth  only  to  be  frozen  again  when  the  sun  has  set.  This  alternate 
freezing  and  thawing  is  the  main  cause  of  Winter  injury  to  shrubs  as 
well  as  perennials.  The  proper  protection,  then,  is  a  light  layer  of 
straw  or  manure  or  leaves  applied  after  the  tops  have  been  killed  by 
frost. 

It  is  usually  better  to  wait  until  the  ground  is  a  little  frozen  before 
applying  the  Winter  mulch.  It  prevents  a  premature  start  in  Spring, 
due  to  a  slight  heating  caused  by  fermentation.  Perennials  whiclx 
retain  their  leaves  through  the  Winter,  as  well  as  biennials  and  Sweet 
William,  Heuchera  and  many  others,  are  best  covered  with  straw  or 
leaves,  but  not  manure,  which  often  disfigures  the  foliage  due  to  the 
decay.  An  excellent  method,  however,  is  to  cover  the  beds  with 
evergreen  boughs  and  then  place  leaves  upon  these,  in  which  case  the 
leaves  are  prevented  from  matting.  Leaves  which  mat  together 
badly,  as  Elm,  Maple,  and  other  trees  which  crop  their  foliage  early, 
are  not  as  valuable  as  Oak.  Coverings  which  are  too  thick  cause  a 
premature  start  in  Spring,  resulting  in  crippled  growth  because  of 
the  late  frosts. 

Unless  the  perennials  are  diseased  the  tops  may  remain  during 
the  Winter;  breaking  or  cutting  them  off  often  exposes  the  growing 
points. 

For  protecting  Lilies  a  mound  of  ashes,  placed  over  the  crown,  is 
frequently  advised.  The  Tiger,  the  Canada,  the  Coral,  the  Handsome, 
the  Thunbergian,  and  the  Turk's  Cap  can  be  successfully  protected  in 
this  manner.  We  have  had  occasion  before  to  mention  the  protection 
of  Eremurus,  which  consists  of  using  a  deep  box  filled  with  leaves  and 
left  over  the  plants  till  rather  late  in  the  season,  otherwise  the  young 
shoots  will  be  injured  in  the  Spring. 

Then  there  are  the  Roses.     When  rosarians  get  together  they 

197 


198 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


STRAW  OR  REED  MATS 

It  is  a  fairly  easy  matter  to  manufacture  a  good,  stout  reed  mat  or  straw  mat  for 
protective  purposes.  A  ball  of  stout  cord  and  the  necessary  material  for  the  mat; 
a  little  dexterity  in  binding  these  into  bundles,  and  in  twisting  the  cord,  as  shown 
in  the  drawing,  is  all  that  are  necessary.  These  mats  can  be  put  to  a  dozen  good 

uses 

discuss  varieties  for  a  time;  then  the  question  usually  arises:  "  What 
do  you  use  for  protecting  your  Roses?  "  "  Well,"  says  one,  "  I 
believe  that  a  protection  for  Roses  should  be  merely  a  sunshade,  not 
an  overcoat,  so  I  just  turn  a  box  over  the  tops  of  the  plants.  They 
always  Winter  as  well  that  way  as  any  other."  "  They  really  need 
some  protection  from  the  cold,"  says  another,  "  and  I  think  the  only 
way  to  protect  Roses  is  to  mound  up  all  the  teas  and  hybrid  teas  so 
that  the  soil  is  almost  a  foot  deep  all  around  them."  The  third 
gentleman  says  that  the  protection  afforded  by  something  placed  on 
their  stems,  such  as  rye  straw,  is  best,  although  paper  is  an  excellent 
insulator  against  the  cold.  Climbers  are  well  protected  by  laying  them 
down  and  covering  them  with  evergreens  or  wrapped  in  burlap.  Any 
sort  of  frame  packed  with  leaves  is  a  trifle  dangerous,  for  the  leaves 
are  apt  to  ferment  and  cause  the  young  shoots  to  start  prematurely. 
Many  persons  dig  their  teas  each  Fall  and  store  in  coldframes,  which 
usually  keeps  them  perfectly  but  is  rather  troublesome. 

For  many  trees  and  shrubs  a  windbreak  will  be  the  proper  sort 
of  shelter  from  the  drying  winds  of  Winter.  Trees  are  apt  to  be 
injured  in  Winter  by  the  loss  of  water  by  evaporation  from  the  twigs; 
this  cannot  be  supplied  by  the  frozen  roots,  and  the  plant  dies.  Tem- 
porary fences  may  be  erected  of  boards  or  Corn  stalks  which  will 
give  the  required  break  to  the  full  sweep  of  the  wind.  Such  protection  is 
placed  on  the  south  side  of  broad-leaved  evergreens  to  shield  them 
from  the  Winter  sun.  The  branches  of  either  deciduous  or  evergreen 
trees  should  be  tied  up  when  the  trees  are  somewhat  columnar  and 
are  susceptible  to  breaking  by  wind  or  snow.  This  is  especially  neces- 
sary with  Irish  Juniper. 


WINTER  PROTECTION 


199 


Tender  plants  and  newly  set  trees,  evergreens  and  others,  are 
successfully  protected  by  tying  them  together  and  covering  with 
Hemlock  boughs.  Other  trees  and  shrubs  are  covered  deeply  so  that 
the  roots  do  not  freeze,  in  which  case  many  are  encouraged  to  grow 
under  adverse  conditions. 

It  is  the  alternate  freezing  and  thawing  of  the  trunk  and  branches 
of  fruit  trees  that  causes  them  to  crack  open  on  the  south  side.  Low 
heading  is  the  only  precaution. 


ANOTHER  FORM  OF  WINTER  PROTECTION 

The  ordinary  coldframe,  especially  if  covered  with  mats  in  hard  weather,  is  suffi- 
cient shelter  for  all  that  class  of  plants  which  are  spoken  of  as  "doubtfully  hardy." 
Parsley  can  be  wintered  here;  Violets  can  be  grown  and  flowered  in  deep  frames; 
tender  Roses  and  shrubs  for  placing  out  of  doors  in  Summer  can  find  a  place. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

Plant  Propagation 

WHY  don't  you  propagate  more  of  your  plants  and  share  your 
good  ones  with  your  neighbor?    Nothing  is  more  interesting 
than  to  get  a  slip  from  a  neighbor.    Plants  of  this  sort  carry 
with  them  memories  of  your  friend  which  add  to  the  charm  of  the 
plant  itself.  By  doing  so  you  will  add  to  the  number  of  garden  lovers. 
HARDWOOD  CUTTINGS.    People  are  afraid  to  cut  up  plants.    They 
wish  they  had  a  whole  hedge  of  a  certain  shrub  instead  of  one  plant. 
If  that  is  true  in  your  case,  do  this:    In  the  Fall,  cut  up  in  six-inch 
lengths  the  good,  strong,  whip-like  branches  of  such  plants  as  Privet 
and  Hydrangeas;  tie  them  in  bundles  and  either  bury  them  in  a  sandy 
knoll,  or  place  them  in  a  box  of  sandy  soil  in  the  basement.   Absolutely 
cover  them.    Water  them  occasionally.    By  Springtime  the  wood 
will  have  healed  over  a  bit  at  the  base  and  the  cuttings  should  then 

be  placed  in  a  well  prepared  soil  so  that  only  two  buds  are 

above  ground.     Climbing   Roses,   Grapes,   Currants,    Gold- 

en   Bell,    Spiraeas,   Lilacs,  Willows,    Mock    Orange,    Dog- 

woods and    Deutzias  are  quite  easily  propagated  in    this 

manner.    Note  the  illustration;  it  shows  how  wood  should 

not  be  left  above  the  top  bud,  and   how   the  base  of  cut- 

tings should  be  cut  clean  just  below  a  bud  or  buds.     If  the 

leaves  are  on  the  plant,  cut  them  all  off. 

SOFT-WOODED  CUTTINGS.  You  can  easily  multiply  your 

shrubs  and  even  Roses  during  the  Summer  if  you  will  make 

slips,  and  be  sure  to  get  them  short. 

Three     inches  is    long    enough. 

The     slip    should    have   a   few 

leaves  at  top;  the  others  should 

be  removed.  This  type  of  cutting 

is  called   a   soft-wooded  cutting 

Cuttings  have  no    roots,  no 

method  of  taking  up  food  from 

the  soil    so  that  food  stored  in 

the  stem  and  leaves  which  should 

produce  roots  is  lost  by  evapora- 

A   hardwood     t  ion  if  tOO    llllicll    foliage    remains        A  soft  wood  (Chrysanthemum)  cut- 


vCurt?it)cut-  on  the  cutting;  if  the  leaves  are     ting'  ^  be  3  "'  Iong 

200 


PLANT  PROPAGATION 


201 


large  they  are  often  trimmed  smaller.  The  cuttings,  when 
made,  should  be  placed  in  a  box  of  sand  or  directly  in  the 
soil  if  it  is  sandy.  Put  the  cuttings  in  rather  deeply 
and  firm  them  in  very  solidly.  If  there  is  a  large  glass  jar  or  bell-glass 
handy,  use  it  to  cover  those  plants  which  you  usually  think  are  a  little 
more  difficult  to  root,  such  as  Roses.  Rut  all  cuttings,  whether 
covered  with  glass  or  not  should  have  a  shading.  A  good  place  for 
the  cuttings  is  under  the  Grape  vines  where  it  is  shady.  Water  them 
thoroughly.  Don't  leave  too  many  leaves  on  a  cutting;  firm  them  in 

sand  solidly,  give 
them  shade,  and 
water  carefully.  Gut- 
tings  of  any  sort 
should  not  be  placed 
right  where  they  are 
to  grow. 

MAKING  GUT- 
TINGS  OF  PERENNI- 
ALS. This  sort  of 
cutting  can  be  made 
of  hundreds  of  peren- 
nials. If  you  wish  to 
increase  your  stock, 
merely  take  little  slips 

Dahlia  root,  showing  young  shoots  starting  and  where        m    the   Spring    when 

to  cut  apart  (c)  the  plants  are  six  or 

seven  inches  tall.  Re 
sure  to  leave  a  few 
buds  below  where  the 
cutting  is  taken;  it 
will  not  injure  the 
plants  in  the  least, 
but  will  cause  them 
to  become  branchy. 
Choose  wood  that  is 
a  little  ripened. 

Perennials  which 
are  readily  propa- 
gated by  cuttings  aro : 

Arabis 

Asclepias 

Gerastium 

Chrysanthemum 

Clematis 


(3 


Jerusalem  Artichoke  tuber.     Note  the  eyes;  unlike 
those  of  the  Dahlia  they  are  on  the  tuber  itself 


202  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Dahlia  Hollyhock  .  Lotus 

Eupatorium  Iberis  Perennial    Sun- 

Helenium  Larkspur 

Hesperis  Lobelia 

Heuchera  Loosestrife  Potentilla 

LEAF  CUTTINGS.  There  are  yet  two  more  sorts  of  cuttings — 
leaf  cuttings  and  root  cuttings.  Leaf  cuttings  are  rarely  made  in  the 
garden,  but  perhaps  a  friend  has  given  the  reader  a  slip  of  a  Rex  Be- 
gonia. Remember  to  remove  all  but  one  leaf  and  oftentimes  that 
leaf  needs  shortening.  The  leaves  removed  can  be  cut  up  in  small 
pieces  so  that  each  piece  has  a  portion  of  the  heavy  midrib  at  the 
base.  When  inserted  in  sand  several  inches  deep  in  a  warm  green- 
house, the  base  will  root  and  a  young  plant  starts. 

ROOT  CUTTINGS  are  interesting  to  make.  Plants  with  rather 
thick  roots  can  usually  be  propagated  by  this  method.  A  box  will  be 
necessary  for  such  propagation;  it  should  be  about  three  inches  deep 
and  nearly  filled  with  a  light  loam.  The  roots  are  cut  into  pieces  an 
inch  and  a  half  long,  and  are  scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  soil 
and  covered  about  one-half  inch  deep  with  light  soil.  The  box  should 
then  be  placed  in  shade,  watered  and  covered  with  a  paper.  In  a 
short  time  shoots  will  start  and  the  young  plant  can  be  transplanted 
to  another  location.  The  following  plants  can  be  propagated  by  this 
method:  Polygonum,  Euphorbia,  Plumbago  Larpentse,  Saponaria, 
Coronilla  varia,  Achillea,  Japanese  Anemone. 

There  are  a  number  of  perennials  propagated  by  this  method 
which  succeed  better  when  the  roots  are  planted  perpendicularly  with 
a  little  piece  of  the  end  protruding.  They  are  usually  fleshy  rooted 
sorts.  Among  the  plants  are:  Italian  Rorage  (Anchusa),  Plume 
Poppy  (Rocconia  cordata),  Dodecatheon,  Stokes'  Aster  (Stokesia 
cyanea),  Ree  Ralm  (Monarda),  perennial  Phlox,  Gaillardia,  Gyp- 
sophila,  Helianthus  rigidus,  Thermopsis,  Papaver,  Statice,  Rleeding 
Heart,  Peony.  Lily  of  the  Valley  is  increased  by  separating  the 
pips  or  individual  crowns.  Among  the  vegetables,  Horseradish  is  so 
propagated.  Scotch  and  Moss  Roses,  Calycanthus,  Lilacs  and  Rlack- 
berries  may  all  be  propagated  in  this  way. 

DIVISION  OF  PERENNIALS.  Perhaps  the  commonest  method  of 
propagation  of  perennials  and  the  one  which  is  easiest,  is  the  division 
of  the  clumps,  the  main  crowns  being  cut  into  a  number  of  pieces. 
The  plants  should  be  divided  very  early  in  Spring  before  growth 
starts,  or  late  in  the  Fall.  This  is  the  most  used  method  of  propa- 
gating Iris,  Peonies  and  Phlox.  German  Iris  should  be  so  divided  every 
three,  Phlox  every  four,  and  Peonies  every  six  or  seven  years,  while 
Michaelmas  Daisy,  Achillea  Ptarmica  and  millefolium  roseum, 


PLANT  PROPAGATION  203 

Helianthus,  Sedum,  some  Veronicas,  Chrysanthemums,  (Enothera, 
and  all  perennials  which  sucker  badly  should  be  moved  and  divided 
every  year.  Artemisia,  Boltonia,  Campanula,  Geum,  Funkia, 
Doronicum,  Armeria,  Thalictrum  are  all  propagated  by  division. 

SOWING  PERENNIAL  AND  ANNUAL  SEEDS.  If  we  possess  coldframes 
and  hotbeds  we  can  sow  many  of  the  perennials  in  March  and  get  them 
to  bloom  the  same  year.  We  can  sow  annuals  also  and  have  them 
of  excellent  size  for  setting  in  open  ground.  We  may  also  sow  peren- 
nials and  annuals  out  of  doors,  in  which  case  some  will  bloom  the  first 
year,  but  with  others  a  longer  time  will  be  required. 

The  following  are  a  few  of  the  perennials  which  will  bloom  the 
first  year  from  seed:  Gaillardia,  Iceland  Poppy,  Chinese  Larkspur 
(Delphinium  chinense),  Lychnis,  Shasta  Daisy,  Platycodon. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  are  many  perennials  which  wait  a  year 
before  flowering,  namely:  Cardinal  Flower,  Golden  Alyssum,  Cam- 
panula, Aquilegia  (Columbine),  Foxglove,  Loosestrife,  Physostegia, 
Hollyhock,  Sweet  Rocket. 

The  main  advantage  of  growing  perennials  and  annuals  from  seed 
is  that  it  saves  the  great  cost  of  buying  plants,  which  runs  up  pretty 
high  when  quantities  of  plants  must  be  bought  from  nurseries.  Many 
of  the  best  varieties  do  not  come  true  to  seed,  however,  for  seedlings 
often  vary  in  color  and  habit.  This  is  true  especially  of  highly  bred 
plants,  hybrids  which  have  resulted  from  the  incorporation  of  several 
species. 

SEED  SOWING:  VEGETABLES.  The  hotbed  or  coldframe  is  more 
essential  for  the  vegetable  garden  than  it  is  for  the  flower,  since  we 
can  get  the  crops  so  much  earlier.  Everything  is  tender  and  as  it 
seems  out  of  season  tastes  so  good  that  all  the  pains  of  regulating  the 
hotbed  are  worth  while.  Lettuce  can  be  matured  in  such  structures, 
and  Tomatoes,  Egg-plants,  Beets,  Onions,  Muskmelons,  and  even 
Corn  can  be  started.  The  space  is  valuable,  so  that  careful  planning 
is  necessary  to  utilize  every  bit  in  the  hotbed.  (Hotbeds  are  discussed 
on  page  222).  Many  persons  will  not  have  hotbeds,  but  will  need  to 
depend  upon  the  windows  for  their  early  start. 

SEEDS  OF  FLOWERS  SOWN  INDOORS.  There  is  always  a  danger 
in  advising  a  very  early  start  for  sowing  seeds  indoors  for  the  reason 
that  the  plants  are  apt  to  become  very  spindling  owing  to  the  diminished 
.light  most  of  us  can  supply  plants  in  our  houses.  For  the  early  Spring 
sowing  we  shall  need  to  save  the  soil  in  the  cellar.  It  should  not  be 
too  rich  but  should  be  loose,  made  so  by  the  addition  of  sand,  coal 
ashes,  or  leafmold.  It  should  be  in  a  fine  condition.  Small,  shallow 
boxes,  three  inches  deep,  are  best  for  seed  sowing.  The  bottom  should 
have  a  number  of  cracks  and  should  be  covered  with  some  coarse 


204 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


S. — Unripe  spore  case  of  a  fern  (greatly  magnified) 
Sp. — The  spore  case  burst  and  throwing  its  spores 

P. — The  green  growth  that  comes  from  a  spore  and  which  give  rise  to  the  little 

fern  plant  (f) 


I. — Fern  plant  bearing  a  frond.  Each  division  of  the  frond  is  called  a  pinnule 
(plural,  pinnae)  (P.).  This  frond  is  covered  with  dot-like  masses  which  are  the 
spore  cases  (Sp.).  At  the  base  of  the  plant  is  a  young  frond  (c)  growing  from  the 

root  stock  (r) 

2. — Pinnule    of    Dryopteris.     3. — Pinnae    of    Adiantum 

4. — In  certain  ferns  the  leaflets  or  pinnae  that  bear  spore  cases  are  much  changed, 
as  for  example  in   Osmunda   regalis,    the   Royal   Fern 


PLANT  PROPAGATION  205 

drainage  material,  as  broken  crockery,  sod  or  stones.  The  flats 
should  be  filled  even  full,  then  trenches  should  be  made,  the  depth  vary- 
ing according  to  the  sort  of  seeds  that  are  to  be  sown.  A  depth  equal  to 
twice  the  diameter  of  the  seed  is  all  that  is  necessary  indoors.  The 
reader  is  referred  to  the  Garden  Calendar  (page  241)  for  the  proper 
time  to  sow  each  vegetable  or  flower.  The  seed  may  be  be  sown 
thinly,  so  that  each  seedling  will  have  plenty  of  air  and  space.  When 
sown  the  seed  should  be  covered  and  the  soil  firmed  by  the  use  of  a 
board.  After  watering  carefully  with  a  fine  spray,  the  box  should  be 
covered  with  glass  and  a  newspaper,  and  put  in  a  suitable  place  for 
growth.  Just  as  soon  as  the  seeds  have  germinated  the  shading  of 
paper  should  be  removed  so  that  the  plantlets  may  get  the  full  light. 

SOWING  SHRUB  AND  TREE  SEEDS.  When  the  fruits  of  many  of 
the  trees  and  shrubs,  as  Regel's  Privet,  Hawthorns,  Rhodotypos, 
Roses,  Barberries,  Roston  Ivy,  Euonymus,  Viburnums,  are 
thoroughly  ripe  they  should  be  gathered  and  so  placed  that 
the  mass  of  berries  will  ferment  a  little.  The  pulp  of  the  fruit  can  then 
be  washed  from  the  seeds.  Roxes  should  then  be  procured  in  which 
a  layer  of  sand  is  placed;  the  seeds  are  sown  broadcast  and  covered 
by  at  least  an  inch  of  sand.  The  flats  are  watered  thoroughly  and 
placed  in  the  basement  until  February,  when  they  are  taken  out  of 
doors  and  allowed  to  freeze.  This  is  necessary  to  break  their  heavy 
coverings.  The  following  shrubs  should  be  so  treated:  Rarberry, 
Sweet  Shrub  New  Jersey  Tea,  Snowdrop  Tree,  Shadbush,  Privet, 
Honeysuckle,  Styrax,  Snowberry,  Indian  Currant,  Hawthorn  and  the 
Viburnums.  When  the  ground  is  in  condition  for  planting,  sift  the 
seeds  from  the  sand  and  sow  in  rows.  They  should  then  start  rather 
readily. 

Tree  seeds  are  treated  the  same  as  those  of  shrubs.  Seeds  which, 
though  hard,  will  not  stand  freezing  are  often  filed  or  nicked  with  a  knife. 
The  following  tree  seeds  need  to  be  placed  in  sand  and  frozen:  Maples, 
Ailantus,  Birch,  Catalpa,  Chestnut,  Reech,  Ash,  Hickory,  Rutternut, 
Rlack  Walnut,  Locust,  Rasswood.  A  number  of  tree  and  shrub  seeds 
should  be  sown  immediately  after  ripening.  The  principal  ones  are: 
TREES — Rirch,  Chestnut,  Elm,  Hackberry,  Horse  Chestnut,  Magnolia, 
Maple,  Oak,  Poplar,  Ptelia,  Sweet  Gum.  SHRUBS — Rayberry,  Honey- 
suckle, Nemopanthes,  Rose,  Spiraea. 

Seeds  differ  greatly  in  their  germinating  power.  The  White  Oak 
germinates  quickly,  the  Rlack  Oak  slowly.  The  Ash  seed  is  rather 
oily  and  benefits  by  being  treated  to  a  weak  acid  bath. 

There  are  a  number  of  reasons  why  seeds  fail  to  germinate.  They 
may  have  been  immature  when  gathered.  Pansy  seed  matures  so 
that  some  of  the  seeds  are  ripe  while  others  are  not.  Some  seeds, 


206 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


upon  becoming  too  dry,  are  killed.  Seeds 
have  often  been  stored  while  moist  and 
heating  has  resulted  which  killed  the  vital 
germ  of  growth;  while  still  others  have  been 
injured  by  insects  and  fungi  before  or  after 
maturing. 

GRAFTING.  Trees  which  belong  to  the 
same  variety  or  species  may  be  grafted.  In 
other  words,  a  Baldwin  Apple  may  be  grafted 
upon  a  Baldwin  or  any  other  Apple.  Some- 
times plants  of  different  species  but  of  the 
same  genus  may  be  grafted;  other  times  this 
is  not  true.  Apples  may  not  usually  be 
grafted  upon  Pears;  yet  Quinces  (of  the 
genus  Gydonia)  have  Pears  (Pyrus)  grafted 
upon  them  to  impart  the  dwarf  habit.  We 
could  never  expect  Cherries  on  Pear  trees,  or  red  Raspberries  on 
Grape  vines,  for  it  is  only  those  plants  which  are  very  closely  related 
that  will  allow  grafting. 

We  have  seen,  as  in  the  above  case,  that  Pears  may  be  kept  dwarf 


Flower  pot  filled  with 
soil  and  sand,  the  sand 
at  the  top.  Soft  wooded 
cuttings  root  most  read- 
ily if  placed  around  the 
edges  of  the  pot.  Seed- 
lings transplanted  may 
be  placed  similarly 


Section  of  a  typical  Flower:  p — Petal:  The  petals  taken  together  are  called  the 
corolla,  s — Sepal:  Sepals  taken  together  are  called  the  calyx,  si — Stamen:  The 
male  part  of  plant,  fi — The  filament  or  thread-like  part  of  stamen,  an — The 
filament  or  pollen  producing  part  of  stamen,  pi — Pistil  or  female  part  of  flower. 
sti — the  stigma  or  part  receiving  the  pollen,  o — the  ovary  which  bears  the  seeds. 
r — Receptacle,  often  helps  to  make  up  the  fruit 


PLANT  PROPAGATION 


207 


by  working  them  upon  the  Quince  stock.  We  may,  likewise,  increase 
the  vigor  of  a  variety  by  grafting  it  upon  a  stronger  growing  species. 
A  familiar  example  of  this  is  the  grafting  of  certain  Roses  upon  the 
Manetti  Rose.  Many  times  plants  are  grafted  in  order  to  render 
them  more  adaptable  to  adverse  soils  and  climates.  An  example 
here  is  found  in  the  case  of  Apples  which  are  often  grafted  upon  the 
Siberian  Grab  in  order  to  render  them  better  able  to  withstand  intense- 


CLEFT  GRAFTING 

The  methods  of  grafting  are  explained  in  the  text  on  the  next  page.  The  above 
illustration  shows  in  detail  how  cleft  grafting  is  performed — usually  on  large  Apple 
and  Pear  trees.  On  the  left  are  the  cions  with  tapering  cut;  on  the  right,  the 
branches  cleft  or  opened,  also  showing  the  waxing  over.  Below  is  a  section  through 
the  top  of  the  stock 


ly  cold  climates.  Sometimes  double  grafting  has  to  be  practised 
especially  with  fine  Pears,  but  that  is  a  part  of  the  subject  we  need 
not  enter  upon  here. 

Girdled  trees  may  be  grafted  with  a  bridge  graft.  In  most  cases, 
however,  the  process  of  grafting  is  used  to  simply  multiply  the  variety. 
Baldwin  Apples  are  wanted;  they  do  not  come  true  to  seed;  cuttings 
are  slower;  so  that  some  form  of  grafting  is  used. 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


When  only  a  bud,  instead  of  part  of  a  shoot,  is  transferred,  the 
process  is  called  "  budding."     (See  next  pago.) 

There  is  a  fundamental  necessity  in  all  grafting  work:  The  layer 
just  between  the  wood  and  bark,  the  line  where  the  bark  peels,  of 
both  stock  and  cion,  must  be  in  contact.  The  slock  is  the  plant  grafted 
upon;  the  cion  (also  spelled  scion)  is  the  shoot  or  graft  that  is  inserted. 
GION  GRAFTING.  There  are  a  number  of  very  simple  sorts  of 
cion  grafting.  The  method  most  used  upon  trees  in  which  the  stock 
is  over  one  inch  in  diameter  is  called  cleft  grafting. 
The  branch  of  the  stock  which  is  to  be  grafted  is 
cut  off  short.  It  is  split  through  the  center  and  the 
crack  opened  to  receive  a  short  cion.  The  cions  are 
best  cut  during  the  Fall  and  stored  through  the  Winter 
in  moist  sand,  but  they  may  be  taken 
directly  from  the  trees  very  early  when 
the  sap  starts  in  the  Spring  but  before 
the  buds  have  burst.  The  best  length 
is  three  buds  long,  the  top  bud  being  the 
top  of  the  cion;  the  lower  end  is  beveled 
at  each  side  to  form  a  perfect  wedge  as 
shown  in  the  cut.  This  wedge  must  have 
the  cut  surfaces  perfectly  straight,  not 
hollowed  out,  if  the  union  is  to  be  a  good 
one.  In  inserting  the  cion  two  cambium 
rings  must  be  together;  this  is  the  part 
between  the  bark  and  the  wood.  To  be 
sure  of  this,  slant  the  cion  just  a  trifle. 
Then  cover  over  the  whole  cut  area  with 
grafting  wax. 

The  next  most  common  method  of 
grafting  is  known  as  whip-grafting.  It 
is  especially  used  upon  small  branches  or 
for  grafting  seedlings.  Apple  seedlings 
may  be  nicely  grafted  by  this  method. 
Branches  to  be  grafted  must  be  nearly 
the  same  size.  The  stock  should  be 
beveled  off  with  a  long  plane  surface; 

the  cion  should  be  beveled  the  same  way.  Then  each  should  be  split 
so  that  the  two  tongues  fit  together  nicely.  Practise  a  bit  upon  some 
other  wood  and  you  will  learn  more  by  the  experience  than  words  can 
tell  in  description.  As  in  all  grafting,  the  layer  between  the  bark  and 
wood  of  each  must  be  in  contact  on  one  side  at  least.  This  sort  of 
grafting,  like  the  former,  should  be  done  in  Spring  before  growth  starts. 


Tongue-grafting 
In  grafting  the  stock  and  cion 
must  be  firmly  bound  around 
with  broad  raffia  or  other 
ligature.  The  above  drawing  is 
intended  to  show  how  to  fix  the 
graft,  but  the  binding  must 
cover  the  union  thoroughly  to 
exclude  the  air 


PLANT  PROPAGATION 


209 


This  graft  may  not  be  covered  with  wax,  but  merely  tied  firmly.  A 
cord  used  for  this  purpose  is  usually  No.  18  knitting  cotton  soaked  in 
grafting  wax.  This  is  just  strong  enough  to  break  when  it  should, 
before  the  branch  is  strangled. 

BUDDING.  The  simplest  method  of  budding  is  known  as  shield 
budding.  It  consists  of  placing  a  shield-shaped  piece  of  bark  bearing 
a  bud,  beneath  the  bark  of  the  stock.  A  good, 
healthy,  well  budded  branch  is  chosen;  the 
buds  are  cut  from  it,  holding  the  branch  up- 
side down.  A  T-shaped  cut  is  made  in  the 
stock  near  the  base  of  the  plant;  the  free 
edges  are  carefully  peeled  back  and  the  bud 
inserted  as  shown  in  the  cut.  The  budded 
stock  is  then  tied  with  yarn  or  raffia  so  that 
the  bud  is  held  firmly;  all  should  be  covered 
except  the  bud.  Budding  may  be  employed 
whenever  the  bark  peels  nicely. 

Prof.  U.  P.  Hedrick,  the  expert  horticul- 
turist of  the  Geneva  Experiment  Station, 
gives  the  following  dates  for  budding:  Rose, 
July  1  to  10;  Pear,  July  10  to  15;  Apple, 
July  15  to  Aug.  1;  Plum  (St.  Julian  stock), 
July  15  to  Aug.  1;  Plum  (Myrobalan  stock), 
Aug.  15  to  Sept.  1;  Cherry  (Mazzard),  July 
20  to  Aug.  1;  Cherry  (Mahaleb),  Aug.  20  to 
Sept.  1;  Quince,  July  25  to  Aug.  15;  Peach, 
Aug.  20  to  Sept.  10. 

LAYERS.  By  layers  we  mean  that  some 
portion  of  a  branch  has  been  placed  in  contact 
with  the  soil  so  that  it  may  root.  Many 
plants  root  very  readily  by  this  method,  and 
as  it  is  very  convenient,  perfectly  simple  and 
certain,  it  can  be  used  in  every  garden  for 
some  purpose.  Grapes  can  easily  be  propa- 
gated by  this  method.  A  cane  is  merely 
bent  down  and  a  node  or  two  covered  with 
soil.  They  root  readily  and  the  new  plant 
can  soon  be  separated  from  the  old  one. 

Another  type  of  layering  is  that  by  which 

a  bush  is  mounded  so  that  each  shoot  roots,  making  from  five  to  twenty- 
five  young  plants  instead  of  one.  After  they  are  well  rooted  the  plant 
can  be  divided  and  each  part  will  be  a  separate  plant.  Gooseberries 
and  many  ornamental  shrubs  can  be  mound-layered.  Strawberries 


The  budding  of  Roses 
1.     Rose    shoot     showing 
where  bud  should  be  cut 

out  (see  dotted  line.") 

2  and  3.     Buds  as  prepared 

for  insertion,  No.  2  having 

the  wood  removed  behind 

the  eye. 

4.  "T"  shaped  cut  in  shoot. 

5.  Eye  inserted  in  shoot 

prior  to  binding. 

6.  Shoot  when  bound  up. 
Raffia  is  used  and  only  the 

bud  is  left  exposed 


210 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Mound  layering  of  Gooseberries.     Ob- 
serve the  roots  forming 


are  propagated  by  runners;  each 
little  runner  makes  roots  and 
forms  a  new  plant.  If  one  con- 
tinues to  keep  the  rows  between 
the  Strawberries  clear  except  for 
the  plants  wanted  another  year, 
the  crop  can  be  nicely  renewed. 
The  old  plants  are  pulled  and  the 
new  ones  transplanted  into  place 
in  a  new  row.  Raspberries  are 
propagated  by  bending  down  their 
tips  and  covering  with  soil.  The 
tips  root  and  the  little  new  plants 
resulting  may  be  transplanted. 
A  sort  of  layering  goes  on  natur- 


ally with  many  plants.  Tomato  stems  root 
nicely  when  they  touch  the  soil.  Squash 
may  be  encouraged  to  root  at  several 
places  by  covering  the  eyes  or  where  the 
leaf  arises  from  the  stem. 


Method  of  layering  a  woody  or  half-woody  plant,  as  for  instance,  a  Rhododendron 
or  a  Carnation,  a,  Slit  or  tongue  cut  half  way  through  the  stem;  b,  pebble  to 
keep  slitfopen;  o,  peg  for  holding  down  the  layer;  d,  a  stake  to  keep  the  shoot  firm 


CHAPTER  XX 


Window  Boxes  and  Porch  Plants 


are  many  enthusiastic  gardeners  for  whom  the  force  of 
circumstances  rules  that    the    window    or    porch    garden    is 
their  only  form  of  flower  growing  possibility.    To  others  the 
porch  decoration  has  much  to  do  with  the  whole  appearance  of  the 
house.   One  word  before  we  mention  the  kinds  of  plants  and  boxes  to 


A  gay  scene  at  Portland,  Oregon.    The  boxes  are  filled  chiefly  with  Petunias 

use.  Many  persons  of  exceptionally  good  taste  in  their  home  and 
garden  seem  to  think  that  a  discarded  water  tank  for  a  receptacle, 
and  a  straggly  display  of  hideous  colors  are  the  requirements  for 
a  porch  garden  such  as  we  are  to  consider.  This  is  not  true.  The 
container  for  the  flowers  should  be  of  the  same  color  as  the  house,  or 
else  of  a  harmonious  shade.  The  plants  should  be  thickly  set  in  the 
box  and,  contrary  to  the  most  common  usage,  the  colors  should  be 
an  excellent  contrast  or  a  perfect  harmony. 

The  porch  box  should  rarely  be  deeper  than  nine  inches, 
from  nine  to  twelve  inches  wide,  and  of  any  length.  It  will  be  much 
easier  to  handle  a  box  not  longer  than  three  feet.  It  is  suggested, 

211 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


therefore,  that  a  number  of  boxes  be  used  if  the  area  to  be  decorated 
is  longer.  The  boxes  should  always  be  made  rather  solidly.  Often 
they  can  be  bracketed  to  the  porch;  when  this  is  not  possible  some 
simple  standard  can  be  devised.  If  legs  are  placed  on  the  box  they 
should  be  a  trifle  wider  apart  at  the  floor.  Round  urns  or  hanging 
baskets  are  preferable  to  most  boxes  which  must  stand  on  the  porch. 
Self-watering  boxes  made  of  iron  are  on  the  market.  There  is  a 
small  reservoir  for  water  at  the  base;  sponges  communicate  the  water 
to  the  soil.  The  boxes  need  watering  only  every  week  or  ten.  days. 
They  cost  from  $1.50  to  $4,  according  to  their  size  and  amount  of 
ornament.  Care  must  be  taken  that  drainage  is  good  and  the 
reservoirs  are  not  filled  too  full  of  water. 

Porch  boxes  or  hanging  baskets  are  easily  made.  White  Pine, 
red  cedar  or  cypress  are  the  best  woods.  They  are  less  injured  by  the 
continual  moisture  required  hi  a  box  of  this  sort.  When  finished 

they  may  simply  be 
painted  to  match  the 
house  or  they  may  be 
covered  with  cedar  or 
other  bark.  They 
may  be  slightly 
decorated  by  using 
crosspieces  of  fine 
twigs. 

Excellent  hanging 
baskets  are  made 
from  heavy  oxmuz- 
zles.  Rend  the  muz- 
zle so  that  it  is  flat- 
ter and  more  bas- 
ket shaped,  attach 
three  wires  or  chains, 
and  the  hanging  bas- 
ket is  ready  for  use 
after  lining  with 
pieces  of  moss  so 
that  soil  may  be  re- 
tained. The  same 
type  of  wire  basket 
may  also  be  pur- 
chased. Special  hang- 
ers may  be  bought 
which  can  be  attached 


Green  lattice-work  against  a  white  house,  with  the 

Geraniums  and  Scarlet  Sage.     This  makes  all  the 

difference  between  elegance  and  bareness 


WINDOW  BOXES  AND  PORCH  PLANTS 


213 


to  the  ordinary  flower 
pot,  converting  it  into 
a  hanging  basket. 
They  are  useful  for 
specimen  ferns  or 
trailing  plants. 

Concrete  boxes  or 
urns  are  very  heavy 
but  are  good,  the 
main  difficulty  being 
that  very  simple  de- 
signs are  essential, 
otherwise  the  boxes 
appear  very  clumsy. 
If  very  fine  sand  is 
used,  or  when  given 
a  fine  finish,  they  are 
very  attractive. 

For  either  in- 
doors or  outside,  the 
wicker  window  boxes 
present  a  good  ap- 
pearance. They  are 
excellent  filled  with 
Boston  ferns  and 
cost  from  $3  to  $13, 
according  to  height 
and  length.  Excellent 
long  plant  baskets  are  now  offered  for  sale  by  all  florists  which  are 
very  handy  to  place  upon  the  window  sill.  For  the  indoor  window 
garden  receptacles  made  of  plaster  of  Paris  are  rather  pretty,  but 
are  very  easily  chipped  and  broken  and  are  not  to  be  advised. 


Concrete  window  box  as  an  integral  part  of  the 
building;  in  this  case  a  garage 


"    For  Shady  Situations 
Tuberous  Begonias 
Begonia  semperflorens 
Fuchsias 
Cobaea  scandens 
Vinca 

Foliage  Geraniums 
Crotons 

Funkia  variegata 
Ferns 
Palms 

-English  Ivy  v 
Trailing  Euonymus 
Wandering  Jew 


Plants  for  Window  Boxes 

For    Winter  Effect 
Box  (Buxus) 
Dwarf  Thuya 
Dwarf  Retinispora 
Irish  Juniper 
Hemlock,  Small  plants 
White  Pine,  Small  plants 
English  Ivy 
Trailing  Euonymus 

For  Sunny  Situations 
Geraniums,  tall 
Ivy  Geranium 
Petunia 
Ageratum  Houstonianum 


For  Sunny  Situations 
Cobaea  scandens 
Phlox  Drummondi 
Nasturtiums 
Verbena 
Lobelia  erinus 
Coleus 
Lantana 

Cigar  Plants  (Cuphea) 
German  Ivy  or  Wandering 

Jew 

Portulaca 

Mesembryanthemum 
Sweet  Alyssum 


214 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Excellent  boxes  are  made  up  entirely  of  Geraniums,  the  tall 
varieties  for  the  background  and  a  row  of  the  Ivy  Geraniums  for 
the  front.  Nothing  is  more  effective  than  a  box  composed  of  two 
pinks  nearly  the  same  in  color.  Fuchsias  can  be  used  likewise  in 
combinations  of  several  varieties. 

Dracaena  indivisa  is  always  useful  in  the  porch  box.  When  its 
usefulness  in  the  box  is  over  it  may  be  potted  and  kept  all  Winter. 


Entrance  porch  and  window  box.     Ampelopsis  Veitchii  is  well  and  freely  used 

The  excellent  clear  colors  of  Verbenas  are  always  admirable  when 
used  alone  or  in  combination.  They  flower  profusely  and  continue 
fresh  in  appearance. 

The  Nasturtium  is  incomparable  for  filling  urns  or  for  porch 
decoration.  For  a  northern  exposure  the  tuberous  Begonia  is  ex- 
cellent. The  colors  of  the  single  as  well  as  the  double  varieties  are 
very  effective.  They  should  always  have  the  best  soil  available. 

The  best  vine  for  trailing  over  the  edge  and  extending  downward 
for  five  or  six  feet  is  the  German  Ivy.  If  this  has  grown  into  quite  a 
jungle  when  procured  from  the  florist,  cut  it  back  and  let  it  start  out 
gracefully.  Vinca  or  Periwinkle,  a  variegated  green  and  white  vine 
of  exceeding  long  growth,  is  everybody's  favorite.  It  stands  adverse 


WINDOW  BOXES  AND  PORCH  PLANTS  215 

conditions.  Gobaea  scandens  will  trail  down  or  climb  up.  Creeping 
Jenny  (Lysimachia  Nummularia)  succeeds  admirably  in  shade  and, 
furthermore,  in  some  sections  of  the  country  it  can  be  gathered  from 
the  wild.  Kenilworth  Ivy  (Linaria  Cymbalaria),  a  neat,  nearly  hardy, 
lavender-flowered  trailer,  can  be  tried,  also  Asparagus  Sprengeri,  a 
plant  so  popular  with  the  florist  and  very  useful  in  the  window  box. 


Nothing  better  bespeaks  home  joys,  grace  and  comforts  than  a  well-filled 
window  box 

Trailing  plants  of  less  rampant  growth  include:  Lobelia  erinus  (not 
the  compacta  variety);  the  flowering  habit  is  unexcelled.  Another 
blue  is  the  Ageratum,  which,  like  Lobelia,  is  always  in  bloom,  and 
it  is  fragrant.  The  trailing  varieties  of  Coleils  have  a  good  habit, 
but  the  colors  are  much  mixed.  Verbenas  and  Petunias,  are  useful 
by  themselves  as  well  as  the  front  margin  of  the  box. 

A  little  plant  useful  for  the  more  personal  porch  boxes  is  the 
Forgetmenot.  It  is  not  very  permanent  but  will  bloom  when 
many  of  the  other  plants  have  only  started  growth.  When  it  finishes 
it  may  be  dug  up.  The  remaining  plants  will,  no  doubt,  keep  up  the 
foliage  and  flower  effect- 


216 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Paneled   window   box   showing  bracket  sup- 
ports, also  side  brackets  above,  for  plants 

For  the  green  and  more  formal  window  box,  plants  of  Aucubas 
can  be  procured  from  the  florist.  In  Winter  the  plants  are  useful  on 
enclosed  porches. 


SELF-WATERING  WINDOW  BOX 

This  shows  body  of  box,  false  bottom.   (B)  Above  water  chamber  or  reservoir.  (W) 

and    two  sponges    (S)    by  which  the  water  passes  up  to  the  soil.     The  water 

supply  is  replenished  through  a  tube  in  the  right-hand  back  corner  (T). 

All  boxes  should  be  raised  a  little  above  the  base  or  sill  on  which 
they  rest,  otherwise  both  box  and  sill  quickly  rot.  The  self-watering 
type  prevents  dripping,  but  even  they  require  attention  on  hot  days, 
especially  when  in  sunny  positions. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

Greenhouses,  Hotbeds  and  Frames 

IF  we  but  appreciated  a  greenhouse  at  its  true  value,  and  knew  the 
pleasure  as  well  as  the  profit  that  can  be  derived  from  the  posses- 
sion of  even  a  small  one,  there  would  be  many  more  erected.  It 
is  a  standing  wonder  that  in  a  country  so  wealthy  as  ours  there  should 
be  so  few  greenhouses  attached  to  the  residences  of  suburban  and  rural 
homes.  Nor  can  we  help  noticing  that  hundreds  of  dollars  will  be 
spent  readily  on  automobiles  by  even  the  moderately  well-to-do, 
while  the  quieter  joys  of  the  garden  and  greenhouse  are  overlooked. 
Yet  a  greenhouse  of  moderate  dimensions,  12ft.  long  by  8ft.  wide, 
can  be  had  for  $250,  and  its  upkeep  will  be  nothing  like  so  much  as 
for  an  automobile. 

So  confident  are  we  as  to  the  pleasure  derivable  from  the  green- 
house, especially  in  the  cold  Winter  months  and  in  the  Spring  time 
before  the  ground  is  warm  and  dry  out  of  doors,  that  we  most  heartily 
urge  its  consideration  on  the  readers  of  THE  GARDEN  GUIDE. 

We  merely  wish  to  call  attention  in  this  place  to  the  advantages 
of  such  a  house.  A  succession  of  flowers  can  be  had  during  the  Winter 
at  small  cost,  either  by  lifting  the  Geraniums  from  out-of-doors  jn  the 
Autumn  and  potting  them  up,  as  well  as  Salvias  and  some  other 
Summer  flowering  plants,  or  by  sowing  little  batches  of  seeds,  or 
planting  bulbs  and  bringing  these  on  gradually.  We  all  know  how 
difficult  it  is  to  make  a  success  of  Dutch  bulbs  in  the  ordinary 
dwelling  house,  owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  and  the 
fluctuation  of  temperatures.  In  a  greenhouse  these  condition,  can  be 
regulated  to  suit  the  plants. 

Among  other  subjects  that  can  be  grown  are  Chrysanthemums, 
Ferns,  Azaleas,  Forgetmenots,  Palms,  Primroses,  Cyclamen,  Schizan- 
thus  (sometimes  called  Poor  Man's  Orchid),  Pansies,  Sweet  Alyssum, 
and  a  great  variety  of  other  stock.  One  can  frequently  obtain  a  slip 
or  a  seedling  from  a  friend,  and  in  this  way  enrich  one's  little  collection. 
There  are  many  plants  also  that  can  be  raised  from  seed. 

Little  cultural  reminders  are  published  in  the  seed  catalogs,  or  as 
a  cultural  guide  Oliver's  "Plant  Culture"  is  recommended. 

There  are  many  hardy  plants  that  are  usually  grown  in  the  rock 
garden  that  can  be  placed  in  what  are  called  flower  pans,  that  is, 
receptacles  as  wide  as  a  5-in.,  6-in.,  or  7-in.  pot,  but  only  3-in.  or  4-in. 

217 


218 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


deep — and  which  can  be  brought  into  flower  in  February,  March,  and 
April  in  a  greenhouse  that  has  no  higher  temperature  than  50  degrees. 

Hitchings,  the  well-known  greenhouse  builders,  make  a  house  of 
the  size  mentioned,  ready  to  be  screwed  together  for  the  sum  already 
stated,  namely,  $250.  This  is  made  of  the  best  air-dried  Cypress, 
with  iron  fixtures,  bracers,  ventilating  push  rods,  galvanized  hinges 
and  everything  complete,  including  six  heavy  iron  posts  for  the  sup- 
port of  the  house.  The  glass  is  of  the  best  double  thick  A  quality, 
10-in  wide.  The  sides  are  made  in  two  panel  sections,  each  6ft.  long 
and  4ft.  8M-in.  high.  There  are  two  benches  lift.  8-in.  long,  by 
2ft.  7-in  wide,  allowing  for  a  walk  of  2ft.  4-in.  between.  Altogether 
one  has  an  indoor  garden  of-  nearly  65  sq.  ft.,  and  this  includes  also 
the  little  heating  boiler,  or  in  Southern  parts  of  the  country  where  a 
very  little  frost  is  experienced,  no  heating  apparatus  may  be  necessary, 
and  the  cost  would  be  reduced  by  $75. 

Of  course,  more  elaborate  greenhouses  with  cement  or  brick  founda- 
tion, and  of  iron  framework  with  curved  eaved  glass  or  in  other  shapes 
to  suit  the  architecture  of  the  residence,  can  be  erected,  but  wouldjruri 
to  considerably  more  money. 


A  curvilinear  roofed,  lean-to  conservatory  by  Hitchings  &  Co.,  with  substantial 
brick  foundation 


GREENHOUSES  AND  FRAMES 


219 


One 


Hitchings'    small    greenhouses,    10ft.  by  17ft.,  suitable    for  so  many 
moderate-sized  suburban  places 


The  greenhouse  builders  are  always  willing  to  give  advice,  or  to 
estimate  for  the  erection  of  a  greenhouse,  and  it  would  be  well  to  con- 
sult them  whenever  a  building  is  contemplated. 

The  best  results  are  usually  obtained  from  span-roofed  houses  run- 
ning east  and  west,  although  any  light  position  is  satisfactory.  The 
site  should  not  be  on  wet  or  low  ground,  nor  any  very  greatly  exposed 
place,  and  the  span-roofed  type  is  generally  preferred,  although  lean- 
tos  or  three-quarter  span  houses  with  the  long  slope  to  the  south,  are 
also  excellent. 

Some  of  the  most  beautiful,  and  we  would  say  comfortable, 
conservatories  we  have  seen  were  attached  to  the  drawing 
room,  or  led  into  from  the  drawing  room,  thus  making  a  light,  beautiful 
lounge  or  extra  drawing  room.  A  billiard  room  can  be  built  also  in 
contiguity,  and  if  the  conservatory  is  large  enough,  aviaries,  and 
aquaria  for  fancy  fish,  may  be  provided 

In  other  instances  we  have  seen  the  conservatory  set  a  little  way 
out  from  the  house,  and  connected  with  the  latter  by  means  of  a  glass 
corridor.  Very  beautiful  results  can  be  attained  by  planting  vines 
and  training  them  under  the  roof  glass. 

It  should  be  mentioned  that  many  of  these  greenhouses  can  be 
used  for  the  growing  of  Tomato  or  Melon  crops,  or  for  the  raising  of 
early  vegetables  in  the  Spring  if  that  is  thought  desirable. 


220 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


HEATING. — Amateurs'  small  greenhouses,  such  as  the  portable 
houses,  8  ft.  3  in.  wide  and  12  ft.  to  20  ft.  long,  are  invariably  heated 
by  hot  water.  The  boiler  is  what  is  known  as  a  Junior,  and  is  usually 
placed  in  a  cellar  or  put  at  one  end  of  the  house.  Coils  of  2-in  pipe  are 
placed  under  each  of  the  side  benches,  and  these  coils  are  connected 
to  the  boiler.  There  is  a  small  open  expansion  tank  at  the  end  of  the 
coils  to  fill  the  apparatus  with  water  and  take  care  of  the  expansion  of  the 
water  in  the  system.  The  amount  of  radiation  in  the  coils  is  generally 
proportioned  for  a  temperature  of  60  deg.  at  night  when  the  mercury 


This  exemplifies  the  beauty  and  value  of  a  few  choice,  neat  growing  evergreens 
close  to  the  house.     Dwarf  evergreens  are  also  used  for  filling  the  window  boxes. 
The  sun  parlor  might  well  have    been  converted    into   a   conservatory,  or  one 
could  have  been  attached 

outside  is  at  zero.      The  boiler  is  a  very  compact  and  efficient  heater 
and  requires  no  more  attention  than  an  ordinary  kitchen  stove. 

A  greenhouse  18ft.  x  25ft.  has  usually  three  benches,  (two  side 
benches  and  one  center  bench)  and  is  heated  by  coils  of  pipes  placed 
under  the  side  benches  only,  leaving  the  space  under  centre  bench 
free  so  that  bulbs  or  roots  of  various  kind  can  be  stored  there.  Hot 
water  is  invariably  used  for  heating,  as  the  boiler  requires  a  great  deal 
less  attention  and  a  more  even  temperature  can  be  maintained  than  if 
steam  is  used.  The  usual  temperature  is  55  to  CO  deg.  but  the  coils 
are  arranged  and  valved  so  that  the  temperature  can  be  controlled. 


GREENHOUSES  AND  FRAMES 


221 


A  small,  round,  hot-water  boiler  is  used  for  heating  the  coils.  The 
boiler  is  arranged  with  a  shaking  and  dumping  grate.  When  the 
heating  apparatus  is  filled  with  water  and  the  fire  started,  the  water 
circulates  through  the  pipes  and  maintains  the  required  temperature. 
The  entire  heating  apparatus  is  simplicity  itself;  a  child  could  take 
care  of  it. 

When  the  greenhouse  is  18  ft.  wide  and  50  ft.  long,  a  partition  can 
be  placed  in  the  center,  making  two  compartments,  and  different 


The  "King  Junior"  garden  frame  made  by  the  King  Construction  Co.,  a  sort 
of  miniature  greenhouse,  the  top  being  on  hinges.  Being  glazed  on  the  sides  as 
well  as  top  the  plants  are  afforded  every  possible  bit  of  sunlight 


temperatures  can  be  maintained  in  each  if  desired.  The  compartment 
nearest  to  the  boiler  is  usually  heated  to  a  higher  temperature.  If 
Roses  are  to  be  grown  in  the  warmest  compartment,  it  is  customary 
to  place  heating  pipes  under  both  side  and  center  benches  for  bottom 
heat,  and  to  dry  out  the  benches.  The  heating  pipes  are  so  arranged 
and  valved  in  both  compartments  that  the  temperature  can  be  controlled 
as  desired.  For  heating  a  greenhouse  18  ft.  x  50  ft.,  a  small  square 
sectional  water  boiler  is  used.  There  are  no  steam  gauges  or  compli- 
cated fixtures  required  on  a  hot  water  heating  apparatus. 


222 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


FRAMES  AND  THEIR  USES 

The  garden  without  its  quota  of  frames  is  like  an  automobile  without 
tires;  you  may  run  it,  but  it  is  hard  and  slow  work  to  get  anywhere 
with  it.  Frames,  properly  managed,  will  accelerate  and  supple- 
ment the  garden  throughout  the  year.  The  frames  (which  you  can 
build  yourself  with  little  trouble  if  you  do  not  care  to  buy  them)  and 
the  sash  are  not  expensive.  They  cost  from  one  and  a  half  to  five 
dollars,  according  to  quality  and  whether  they  are  double  or  single 


Section  of  a  hotbed  frame  with  details  of  measurements.     Reproduced 
from  a  Cornell  bulletin 

glazed.  With  reasonable  care  they  will  last  indefinitely.  I  have  a  sash 
in  use  today  that  has  been  used  continuously  for  over  twenty  years. 
Concrete  frames  are  growing  in  popularity,  as  they  can  be  built  at 
little  additional  expense  and  will  last  practically  forever.  They  are 
tighter  and  warmer  than  wooden  frames,  and  they  do  not  warp  or 
settle,  so  that  the  sash  always  fits  them  tightly,  a  very  important  point. 
Standard  size  sash  covers  a  space  3  by  6  ft.,  and  the  frames  to  sup- 
port it  are  made  to  correspond.  In  building  of  wood  it  is  better  to  use 
2  in.  planks,  although  inch  boards  are  often  employed.  In  building 
a  wood  frame,  after  ascertaining  the  correct  size  to  fit  the  particular 
sash  you  are  buying,  put  in  posts  of  3  by  4  in.  stuff  witli  the  inside  corner 
planed  down  for  an  inch  or  so,  to  avoid  a  sharp  edge.  There  should 
be  a  drop  of  about  from  3  to  4  in  from  the  back  to  the  front.  If  you 
can  get  boards  or  planks  6  and  9  in.  wide,  and  6  or  12  ft.  in  length, 


GREENHOUSES  AND  FRAMES  223 

practically  no  cutting  will  have   to  be 

done  in    building  the  frame.    Let  the 

sides  come  down  well  below  the  ground 

as  the  soil  inside  should  be  a  few  inches 

below  the  general  ground  level.    After 

it    is  finished,    a   layer   of  gravel   or 

roofing  slate  on  the  outside,  or  banking 

up  with  soil,  nearly  to  the  top,  will 

greatly  increase  its  efficiency  in  keeping  small  forcing  frame 

out    cold.      Concrete    frames    should 

be  made  4    to  6   in.    thick   and   sunk 

well  below  the  ground  level  so  that  the  frost  cannot  get  under  the  mason 

work. 

At  least  part  of  your  sash  should  be  of  the  double  glazed  type.  Two 
layers  of  glass  instead  of  one  are  used,  with  the  result  that  the  thin 
air  space  left  between  them  forms  a  cushion  of  dead  air  which  is  as 
effective  as  a  blanket  of  wool  or  canvas  in  keeping  out  the  cold,  while 
it  admits  the  light  and  sunshine  as  readily  as  a  single  layer  of  glass. 
With  a  good  tight  frame  and  double  glass  sash,  crops  may  be  grown 
well  into  the  Winter,  and  started  very  early  in  the  Spring,  without  any 
other  protection. 

With  single  glass  sash,  wooden  shutters  or  burlap  mats  are  used  as 
an  extra  covering  in  cold  weather.  If  these  are  employed  in  addition  to 
double  glass  sash,  half  hardy  crops,  such  as  Lettuce,  can  be  carried 
through  very  severe  weather  without  any  artificial  heat  at  all,  and  the 
frames  will  be  ready  for  use  in  the  Spring  as  early  as  they  may  be 
wanted,  without  having  to  wait  for  them  to  thaw  out. 

Hot  beds  are  made  one  to  two  feet  deeper  than  for  cold  frames  to 
allow  for  the  layer  of  manure  put  in  to  furnish  the  heat. 

LOCATION.  Generally  it  is  best  to  locate  with  southern  exposure 
and  with  a  protection  of  trees  or  fence  at  north  (see  p.  199).  Three  feet 
should  be  allowed  back  of  frame  to  the  fence  to  allow  for  working  facili- 
ties. Do  not  put  the  frame  where  the  Spring  rains  may  drain  into  it; 
good  drainage  is  especially  important  in  Winter  as  well  as  in  Spring. 

PREPARATION  OF  BED.  During  Winter  keep  the  snow  out  by 
a  covering  of  boards.  In  the  middle  of  March,  or  six  or  eight  weeks 
before  plants  can  be  safely  put  out  of  doors,  if  the  bed  has  been  con- 
structed as  directed,  two  feet  of  fresh  manure  is  placed  in  the  frames. 
Nothing  but  fresh  manure  will  suffice,  horse  manure  being  best,  which 
has  been  piled  and  turned  several  times  to  bring  to  a  uniform  tem- 
perature. As  placed  in  frames,  the  manure  should  gradually  be 
stamped  rather  firmly.  To  insure  more  uniform  heating  a  layer  of 
straw  is  used  to  cover  the  manure.  Soil  which  has  been  stored  in 


224 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


basement  is  then  spread  over  to  a  depth  of  four  inches.  The  soil 
should  be  rather  sandy  and  should  consist  of  good  loam,  leaf  mold, 
sand  and  some  well  decayed  manure.  Put  on  the  sashes  and,  as  Mrs. 
Rion,  in  "  Let's  Make  a  Flower  Garden  "  says:  "  Let  her  bile.  It  will 
steam  tremendously  for  four  or  five  days,  then  it  gets  down  to  regular 
business  of  more  or  less  even  heat.  There  are  nice  thermometers  to 
be  had  to  take  the  bed's  temperature;  find  out  when  its  fever  has 
dropped  below  ninety  degrees;  then  you  know  it  is  time  to  go  ahead 
and  plant." 


One  of  the  King  Construction  Co.'s  double-glazed  frames;  a  very  valuable  type 

Another  sort  of  hotbed  may  be  constructed  by  placing  a  coldframc 
upon  a  heap  of  manure  which  in  the  colder  regions  should  be  a  foot 
and  a  half  thick  when  packed  rather  firmly.  Hotbeds  can  be  easily 
heated  by  running  a  pipe  from  the  heating  plant  of  the  house  into 
the  frame  which  can  be  located  near  the  house. 

MANAGEMENT  OF  HOTBEDS  AND  GOLDFRAMES.  Radish,  Lettuce, 
Cabbage,  Tomato,  Cauliflower,  Aster,  Pansy,  Scarlet  Sage,  Verbena, 
and  such  seeds,  are  planted  in  rows,  several  inches  apart.  The  venti- 
lation of  the  frame  must  be  carefully  attended  to  and  if  moisture 


GREENHOUSES  AND  FRAMES  225 

condenses  on  the  glass  the  sash  should  be  lifted  a  trifle  on  the  side 
away  from  the  prevailing  wind.  Sashes  should  be  capable  of  being 
raised  at  any  angle.  Much  damage  can  be  done  by  leaving  the  frame 
closed  tightly  on  sunny  days,  for  the  crops  are  easily  burned. 

The  watering  should  be  done  on  sunny  mornings.  When  the 
plants  have  produced  their  third  leaf  they  should  be  transplanted 
according  to  their  various  needs.  Lettuce  will,  perhaps,  be  matured 
in  the  frames  and  will  need  to  stand  eight  inches  apart,  while  Tomatoes 


A  well-sheltered  line  of  cold  frames  facing  due  south.     How  itivaluable.lthey  are 

may  be  set  out  three  inches  apart  and  transplanted  again.  On  real 
cold  nights  the  hotbeds  should  be  covered  with  some  sort  of  mat, 
either  of  straw  or  padded  cloth. 

Prof.  Wilkinson  of  Cornell  University  gives  the  following  discussion 
of  vegetable  combinations  that  can  be  grown  in  a  hotbed  (see  p.  161): 

"  Radishes,  Lettuce,  Beets  and  Carrots  seem  well  adapted  for 
growing  together,  while  Tomatoes,  Egg-plants  and  Peppers,  although 
they  can  be  raised  with  the  others,  will  grow  better  if  given  a  higher 
temperature  than,  and  conditions  slightly  different  from,  those  required 
by  the  first  four  plants  named.  Through  experience  the  various 
requirements  of  different  plants  will  become  known  to  the  grower. 


226  GARDEN  GUIDE 

"  A  good  plan  for  planting  a  hotbed  for  the  home  garden  is  shown 
on  page  161.  The  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Tomatoes  and  Lettuce  that 
are  transplanted  to  this  bed  can  be  first  raised  in  a  small  flat,  which  is  a 
wooden  box  twelve  inches  wide,  eighteen  inches  long  outside  and 
two  and  one-half  inches  deep,  filled  with  dirt,  either  earlier  in  this 
bed,  in  another  bed,  or  in  the  house  at  a  sunny  window  or  behind  the 
stove.  Other  plants,  such  as  Radishes,  Reets  and  Carrots  are  sown 
for  maturing  in  this  bed.  .For  the  best  results  they  will  require  thin- 
ning, the  Reet  thinnings  being  used  as  greens.  The  seed  of  Celery 
and  of  Onions  is  sown  and  the  seedlings  are  transplanted  later. 

"After  the  Lettuce  plants  have  been  disposed  of,  one  row  of 
Cucumber  seeds  may  be  planted,  the  plants  being  thinned  later  to 
six  inches  apart.  Cucumbers  may  be  planted  also  after  the  pots  at 
the  back  of  the  bed  are  removed.  The  Cucumber  plants  are  then 
allowed  to  spread  at  will  and  to  mature  a  crop  of  Cucumbers  for  slicing 
or  for  other  uses  as  required. 

"  After  one  crop  is  taken  out  another  can  follow,  the  soil  in  the 
bed  being  forked  over  and  raked  level  between  crops,  and  after  the 
manure  is  spent  the  bed  can  be  used  for  the  development  of  vege- 
tables throughout  the  Summer.  In  the  Fall  the  soil  and  the  spent 
manure  is  taken  out  of  the  hotbed  pits,  the  sash  is  stored  away,  and 
the  board  covering  is  replaced  for  Winter  protection.  Fresh  manure 
is  used  every  Spring,  also  fresh  soil,  the  process  of  making  and  manag- 
ing the  hotbed  changing  only  as  the  operator  becomes  more  experienced 
in  successful  hotbed  work." 

The  same  treatment  should  be  given  coldframes,  except  that  they 
cannot  be  started  so  early. 

USEFUL  LITTLE  FORCING  STRUCTURES.  The  gardener's  inventive 
.genius  will  devise  a  hundred  ways  of  growing  the  earliest  possible 
plants  out  of  doors.  He  will  use  boxes  with  glass  lids  and  butter  bell 
jars.  Finally,  he  will  see  the  advantage  of  a  small  individual  cold- 
frame  and  will  have  small  coldframes  one  or  two  feet  square  con- 
structed, in  which  he  can  cultivate  Cantaloupes,  Cucumbers,  early 
Peppers,  Squash,  Lima  Reans 

The  Cloche  Co.  has  devised  a  very  ingenious  plant  forcer  made 
of  glass  held  together  by  wires.  They  are  sun  catchers  and  should  be 
a  great  factor  for  early  results.  It  is  a  handy  and  useful  method 
of  growing  vegetables  under  what  it  calls  "cloches." 

There  is  a  system  of  forcing  under  bell-jars  called  "French 
gardening."  It  takes  a  great  deal  of  labor  and  a  very  perfect  con- 
dition of  soil,  but  enormous  crops  are  grown  on  small  areas.  Those 
who  are  interested  hi  vegetable  growing  should  read  about  this  French 
system  of  gardening. 


GREENHOUSES  AND  FRAMES  227 

A  new  type  of  frame,  which  is  practically  a  miniature  greenhouse, 
can  now  be  bought.  (See  illustration  page  221.)  Double  glazed 
sash  are  also  used,  and  a  miniature  heating  plant  can  bepperated  in  cold 
weather  in  a  little  enclosure  at  one  end  of  the  frame.  This  does 
away  with  the  inconvenience  and  the  trouble  of  procuring  and 
handling  manure  to  furnish  artificial  heat 

The  satisfaction  that  you  will  get  from  your  frames  will  depend 
upon  your  carefulness  in  planning  their  use.  Look  ahead  and  have  one 
crop  growing  and  ready  to  occupy  frame  space  as  fast  as  another  is 
removed.  Thus,  in  the  Fall,  you  should  start  Lettuce  in  August  or 
early  September  to  be  large  enough  to  set  in  the  frames  as  soon  as 
frosty  weather  arrives.  Radishes  can  be  planted  and  half-grown 
before  it  is  necessary  to  put  on  the  glass.  Lettuce  started  hi  January 
or  February  in  the  hot  bed  or  in  the  house  will  be  ready  to  set  out  in 
the  frames  in  Februa/y  or  March.  Cucumbers  or  Melons  started  in 
paper  pots  can  be  set  into  frames  after  the  Spring  grown  plants  are 
removed,  weeks  earlier  than  they  can  be  put  out  of  doors.  Plan  always 
for  a  succession  of  crops  in  your  frames,  just  as  you  do  in  your  garden 


CHAPTER  XXII 

Birds  in  the  Garden 


Mr.  Ghas.  Livingston  Bull,  than  whom  no  one  is  better  acquainted 
with  the  birds  and  their  habits,  furnishes  us  excellent  directions  for 
making  them  tenantable  homes,  as  follows: 

The  bluebird  and  wren  are  the  easiest  to  satisfy  as  to  the  outward 
appearance  of  the  house;  probably  nine  out  of  ten  native  birds  living 
in  artificial  nesting  sites  are  bluebirds.  Almost  any  box,  if  only  it  has 
a  space  at  least  four  and  one-half  inches  high  by  the  same  width,  and 
a  length  of  seven  inches  or  more,  with  a  hole  about  one  and  one-half 
inches  in  diameter,  preferably  round,  at  the  end  and  not  too  low  down 
in  that  end,  with  some  sort  of  perch  just  below  it,  will  please  the  blue- 
bird. As  to  outside  finish,  the  more  it  looks  like  some  natural  object 
the  more  sure  it  will  be  to  attract  the  lovely  little  bluecoats. 

The  most  successful  bluebird  box  of  which  I  have  knowledge  was  a 
section  of  a  hollow  limb,  in  which  a  woodpecker  had  cut  a  little  round 
hole  into  the  cavity.  This  limb,  about  seven  inches  in  diameter,  had 
been  sawed  from  the  tree  and  a  section  about  two  feet  long  containing 
'the  cavity,  had  been  cut  out  and  wired  to  the  branch  of  an  old  Pear 
tree.  This  was  used  every  year  by  a  pair  of  bluebirds,  and  most  years 
two  broods  were  raised.  Think  of  the  thousands  of  fruit  worms  and 
curculios  and  other  insects  that  went  to  feed  the  broods  in  that  nest 
year  after  year! 

I  have  duplicated  that  nest  a  number  of  times  simply  by  cutting  a 
section  of  a  branch  or  small  trunk,  seven  or  eight  inches  thick  and  a 
foot  long,  boring  a  hole  with  an  inch  and  a  half  bit  half-way  through, 
near  one  end,  then  hollowing  out  a  chamber,  either  by  sawing  a  slab 
off  one  side,  which  is  tacked  or  wired  on  again  after  the  chamber 
(about  5x5x8)  is  hollowed  out,  or  by  sawing  a  section  for  a  cap  two 
inches  thick  from  the  end  farthest  from  the  entrance  hole  and  then 
drilling  or  turning  out  the  hollow  and  closing  the  end  with  the  cap, 
carefully  tacked  on.  This  house  should  be  hung  horizontally. 

If  a  box  is  to  be  used  as  the  foundation  of  a  bluebird  house,  cover  it 
with  bark  or  make  it  of  slabs  with  the  bark  on,  or  at  the  very  least, 
stain  it  a  dark  grayish  brown,  and  if  the  proportions  are  right,  the  birds 
will  do  their  part. 

Bluebirds  like  to  nest  rather  low.  The  house  should  be  placed 
either  on  a  pole  in  the  garden,  about  seven  or  eight  feet  above  the 

228 


BIRDS  IN  THE  GARDEN  229 

ground,  or  on  a  tree  branch,  perhaps  a  little  higher.  The  pole  or  branch 
should  be  so  slender  that  a  cat  would  not  venture  to  climb  it,  that  is, 
not  more  than  one  and  one-half  inches  thick;  and  if  a  pole,  preferably 
some  smooth,  hard  wood  like  a  rake  handle  or  the  thick  end  of  a  bamboo 
fish  pole. 

The  wren,  whose  bubbling  song  is  such  a  joy  all  through  the  Spring 
and  Summer,  does  not  get  here  so  early  as  the  bluebird  and  might 
easily  find  all  the  nesting  sites  occupied,  were  it  not  for  one  thing. 
His  tiny  body  will  squeeze  in  where  no  sparrow  or  starling  or  bluebird 
could  obtrude,  and  while  he  might  try  the  bluebird  box,  the  first  pair 
of  bluebirds  or  sparrows  to  come  along  would  surely  oust  him. 

An  entrance  hole  one  inch  in  diameter  is  the  solution,  and  if  the 
interior  is  no  more  than  three  and  one-half  or  four  inches  square  by  six 
inches  long,  the  larger  bird  will  not  even  look  in  more  than  once. 

Wrens  have  been  known  to  nest  in  many  curious  places,  such  as  the 
sleeve  of  an  old  coat,  an  old  boot,  a  bomb  shell,  a  pump,  an  empty 
Tomato  can,  and  perhaps  the  most  curious  of  all,  a  human  skull. 

The  great  majority  of  wrens,  however,  nest  in  a  hollow  limb  or  tree 
trunk,  and  naturally  the  bird  house  which  most  resembles  such  a  loca- 
tion will  be  the  most  likely  to  attract  these  tireless  little  bug  hunters. 
The  ideal  box  would  be  the  one  which  most  nearly  resembles  a  big  knot 
on  the  side  of  the  tree  trunk. 

A  bluebird  does  not  seem  to  care  how  exposed  the  house  may  be  to 
the  sun,  in  fact,  he  rather  likes  an  open  situation,  but  I  have  yet  to  see 
a  wren's  nest  where  the  entrance  was  not  well  shaded,  so,  to  guard 
against  the  gardener,  who  might  not  know  this  peculiarity  of  the 
cunning  little  brown  fellow,  the  bird  house  man  should  provide  a  good 
overhang  to  the  roof  of  the  wren  house,  also  a* little  perch  just  below 
that  entrance  hole  and  be  sure  once  more  that  same  entrance  hole  is 
round  and  no  more  than  an  inch  in  diameter.  A  couple  of  designs 
which  have  been  successful  are  shown  on  pages  230  and  232. 

Writing  of  the  robin,  Mr.  Rull  continues: 

How  cheery  is  his  morning  song  just  at  the  first  peep  of  day.  And 
how  sweet  his  long  evening  song  which  he  keeps  up  till  long  after  sun- 
set. And  how  weatherwise  he  is. 

When  he  flies  up  to  the  topmost  branch  of  his  pet  tree  and  calls  his 
"twill-rain!"  "twill-rain!"  you  may  be  very  sure  the  garden  will  be 
sprinkled  without  overworking  the  water  meter.  How  fat  and  cheerful 
he  looks  as  he  hops  over  the  lawn;  stopping  now  and  again  to  yank 
out  a  great  fat  worm,  possibly  as  long  as  himself.  He  will  be  glad  to 
nest  in  your  garden  and  if  you  have  a  large  tree  he  will  usually  nest  in 
that,  but  so  many  trees  have  no  suitable  forks.  He  would  be  most 
pleased  to  nest  on  a  shelf  under  the  eaves  of  your  house,  but  so  many 


230 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


houses  have  no  shelf  there.  Or  under  the  porch  roof,  if  he  could  find  a 
good  place.  But  most  houses  are  so  built  that  there  is  no  suitable 
location  for  him,  and  so  there  have  been  many  attempts  to  construct 
locations  which  might  attract  him. 


A  serviceable  bluebird  house.  Make  box  as 
shown  in  sketch,  preferably  of  slab  wood, 
especially  top.  If  impossible  to  secure  wood 
with  bark  attached,  stain  dark  grayish  brown. 
Box  is  fastened  to  pole  by  strip  of  sheet  iron 
screwed  on  back  of  box  and  screwed  to  pole 

He  will  not  enter  a  hole.  No  box  or  house  for  him!  It  must  be  in 
the  form  of  a  shelf,  preferably  with  a  cover.  It  must  be  open  on  at 
least  two  sides  and  should  have  a  low  raised  rim  around  the  edge  to 
keep  the  nest  from  being  blown  or  washed  off.  It  should  have  a  roof, 
too,  for  while  the  great  majority  of  robin  nests  are  in  trees,  and  in 
rather  open  situations  at  that,  when  they  can  find  a  good  situation 
on  a  house  it  will  nearly  always  be  under  some  sort  of  overhang. 


BIRDS  IN  THE  GARDEN  231 

The  shelf  might  be  hung  right  on  the  side  of  the  house,  preferably 
on  the  east  or  west  side,  not  on  the  south  unless  the  location  is  partially 
shaded.  It  should  hang  so  rigidly  that  no  severe  wind  will  swing  it  too 
hard,  preferably  by  two  screw  eyes.  The  roof  should  have  enough 
pitch  and  overhang  so  as  to  shed  most  of  the  rain  and  yet  not  too  much. 

1  have  never  seen  a  robin's  nest  less  than  8  ft.  above  the  ground  and 
usually  they  are  much  higher;  so  hang  it  fairly  high,  beside  or  under  a 
second-story  window  would  be  a  good  place;  and,  if  there  are  vines, 
so  much  the  better.    If  it  must  be  in  the  garden,  then  put  it  on  a  tree 
10  ft.  from  the  ground  or  on  a  pole  among  the  twigs  and  leaves  of  some 
shrub  or  bush  10  ft.  high.    The  most  successful  robin  shelves  are  those 
7  in.  square  with  a  rim  1  in.  high  and  half  an  inch  wide  around  the  open 
sides,  making  an  inside  measurement  of  6  in.  square.    The  back  and 
one  side  closed;  the  whole  stained  brownish  gray  or  to  match  the  side 
of  the  house  where  it  is  to  hang.    The  roof  is  preferably  a  piece  of  wood 
with  the  bark  on  and  should  be  4  in.  above  the  platform  at  the  lowest 
point  and  should  have  an  overhang  of  about  2  in. 

The  same  thing  is  right  for  the  cat-bird,  but  the  location  should  be 
entirely  different.  Gat-birds  always  nest  close  to  the  ground  (from 

2  ft.  to  6  ft.)  and  in  the  heart  of  the  densest  brush  they  can  find.    The 
center  of  your  biggest  Rambler  Rose  is  your  best  location,  or  deep  in  a 
close  growing  evergreen:  Cedar,  Retinispora,  clipped  Spruce  or  Hem- 
lock or  some  similar  growth.     I  found  a  big  thorny  Barberry  bush  in  a 
clump  of  other  shrubs  a  good  place,  when  I  tied  five  or  six  branches 
together  above  the  little  platform  to  hide  it  thoroughly. 

One  of  the  most  valuable  birds  we  can  have  about  our  homes  is  the 
phoebe.  He  belongs  to  the  family  of  flycatchers,  and  well  justifies  the 
name  for  he  spends  the  entire  day  watching  from  a  twig  and  flying  out 
and  snapping  up  every  fly,  mosquito  or  moth  that  passes,  and  will  pick 
off  every  little  leaf  or  fruit  worm  that  his  keen  eyes  may  note. 

His  note  "phoebe,  phoebe,"  is  not  as  musical  as  the  elaborate  and 
varied  assortment  the  cat-bird  will  regale  one  with;  but  it  is  cheery  and 
alert,  and,  when  one  thinks  of  the  vast  number  of  insect  pest  she  is 
destroying  hourly,,  it  is  a  most  welcome  note  indeed. 

The  phoebe  is  not  as  common  as  we  might  wish,  but  if  your  garden 
is  fairly  large  and  the  houses  are  not  too  close  together,  a  pair  will 
doubtless  look  you  over  this  Spring,  and  if  you  have  the  right  sort  of 
place  ready,  may  stay  with  you. 

The  favorite  location  for  the  phoebe  is  under  a  bridge  or  on  a  shelf 
of  rock  under  a  ledge,  or  a  beam  under  an  open  shed,  or  similar  loca- 
tion; preferably  near  water,  though  not  necessarily  so.  They  like 
plenty  of  room,  and  a  good  cover.  The  shelf  should  be  6  in.  wide  and 
at  least  12  in.  long,  open  at  ends  and  with  roof  5  in.  above  at  the  front 


232  GARDEN  GUIDE 

and  6  in.  or  7  in.  at  the  back  and  an  overhang  of  at  least  3  in.    A  perch 
is  not  necessary. 

They  are  rather  particular  little  fellows;  for  example,  it  is  of  little 
use  to  hang  such  a  shelf  on  a  house  painted  a  light  or  bright  color  for 


Wren  House — Simply  a  square  box  (5in.),  all 
dimensions  inside  measurement,  with  slab 
covering,  flat  on  back,  but  3  in.  overhang  in 
front  and  1  in.  at  sides.  One  inch  hole  at 
center  of  front;  3  in.  perch.  We  have  shown 
this  box  on  pole  but  it  could  be  hung  from 
screw  eye. 

they  will  not  be  interested.  They  will  have  nothing  to  do  with  any- 
thing on  a  pole.  There  must  be  the  suggestion  of  the  big  wall  of  rock 
and  the  protected  ledge,  so  if  you  can,  hang  the  shelf  under  the  eaves 
or  under  an  open  porch,  not  more  than  one  story  from  the  ground.  No 
high  places  for  them,  but  it  should  be  7  ft.  or  8  ft.  from  the  porch  floor 


BIRDS  IN  THE  GARDEN 


233 


or  ground,  at  least.  If  you  are  so  fortunate  as  to  have  a  pair  of 
phoebes  nest  on  your  house,  you  will  be  well  repaid  for  the  trouble  of 
putting  up  the  little  shelf  and  be  sure  that  it  is  some  dark  color, 
brownish  or  grayish,  or  you  will  have  your  trouble  for  nothing. 

To  make  the  birds  perfectly  at  home  we  must  provide  a  bird  bath 
or  drinking  basin.  For  this  purpose  any  low  bowl  can  be  used  in  which 
the  water  is  not  too  deep,  for  it  would  appear  that  some  birds  fear 
too  deep  water.  If  the  bowl  is  deep,  fill  in  with  clean  pebbles  or 
cement,  or  very  attractive  baths  may  be  procured  from  some  of  the 
seed  and  florist  firms.  These  pedestals  and  bowls  furnish  an  excel- 
lent ornament  to  the  garden  as  well. 

A  suggestion  for  making  the  bath  more  attractive  is  to  plant  an 
umbrella-plant  in  a  small  pot  and  place  it  at  the  side.  A  small  quantity 
of  Colomba  and  Parrot's  Feather  (Myriophyllum)  might  also  be  in- 
cluded and  so  placed  that  the  pot  will  be  entirely  hidden. 

I  have  divided  the  birds  into  four  distinctive  groups,  as  follows: 

No.l. — SUET  GROUP: 

Chickadee 

Tufted  titmouse 

White-breasted  nuthatch 

Red-breasted  nuthatch 

Downy  woodpecker 

Hairy  woodpecker 

Red-bellied  woodpecker 

Flicker 

Blue  jay 

Oregon  jay 

Whisky  jack 

Grow 

Glarks  crow 

Brown  creeper 

Myrtle  warbler 

Rose-breasted  grosbeak 

Hermit  thrush 

Winter  wren 

House  wren 

Starling 

Screech  owl 
No.2. — SEED  GROUP: 

Junco 

Tree  sparrow    Song  sparrow 

White-throated  sparrow 

White  crowned  sparrow 

Foxsparrow.    Cardinal  goldfinch 

Redpoll.     Snow  bunting 

Evening  grosbeak 

Pine-grosbeak     Purple  finch 

Gray-crowned  rosy^finch 

Other  finches  and  sparrows 


These  birds  also  eat 
Sunflower  seed 
Squash  seed 
Meat 
Fat  pork 
Crumbs 
Dog  biscuit 
Walnuts 
Butternuts 
Unroasted  peanuts 
Other  oily  nuts 

A  few  of  these  birds  will  also 
eat  "cracked  corn  and  oats. 


These  birds  also  eat  almost  any 
kind  of  small  seeds  or  cracked  grains 
such  as  bird  seed,  millet,  etc., 
crumbs,  bread,  crackers,  dog  biscuit, 
etc. 

A  few  of  this  group  will  also  eat  a 
little  suet,  or  will  pick  at  a  bone 
with  a  little  meat  or  fat  adhering, 
but  their  normal  food  is  vegetable. 


234  GARDEN  GUIDE 

No.  3. — GRAIN  GROUP:  ]    Any  kind  of  grain  as: 

Ruffed  grouse  Oats 

Quail  Wheat 

Partridge  |>      Rye 

Pheasant  Barley 

Lapland  longspur  Buckwheat 

Shore  lark  j        Cracked  corn 

No.  4. — FRUIT:  ]       This  is  a  Southern  group.     Will 

Robin  I    eat  oranges,  figs,  grapes  and  almost 

Mocking  bird  [   any  other  fresh  fruit,  also,  some- 
Catbird  and  most  other  thrushes  j    times,  bread  and  milk. 


BERRY-BEARING   SHRUBS,  VINES  AND  TREES  FOR  THE 

BIRDS 

Another  way,  and  a  very  effective  one  of  attracting  birds,  is  to 
plant  berry-bearing  shrubs,  trees  and  vines.  The  robins,  starlings, 
thrushes,  cedar  birds,  mocking  birds,  in  fact  most  so-called  soft  billed 
birds,  will  eat  berries,  and  some  of  the  finches  and  sparrows  will  pick 
them  open  to  get  at  the  seeds. 

Many  of  the  migrating  birds  will  stay  about  a  place,  where  there 
is  an  abundance  of  berry-bearers  and  an  allowance  of  suet  and  seeds, 
much  later  than  they  ordinarily  would  stay. 

For  example  here  in  Northern  Jersey  as  I  write  this  in  the  last  of 
October,  there  are  great  flocks  of  robins  and  thrushes  hurrying  to  cull 
the  very  last  of  my  Mountain  Ash  and  Dogwood  berries,  before  theygo 
away  South. 

Last  year  one  robin  stayed  with  us  all  Winter  eating  the  Japanese 
Barberries.  There  is  also  a  pair  of  chewinks  still  here,  while  back  in 
the  woods  they  have 'been  .gone  for  at  least  three  weeks.  I  should 
head  the  list  of  berry-bearers  with  such  trees  as  the  Mountain  Ash, 
Dogwood,  various  wild  Cherries  and  Cedars,  Junipers,  and  other  berry- 
bearing  evergreens.  These  are  especially  beloved  by  the  birds.  A 
list  of  shrubs  should  include  the  shrubby  Dogwoods,  such  as  the  Cor- 
nelian Cherry,  Red  Osier,  etc.;  many  of  the  Viburnums,  and  Ilexes, 
all  the  Vacciniums  (that  is,  Blueberries,  Cranberries  and  Deerberries) 
some  of  the  Loniceras  and  Cratsegus  or  Hawthorns,  Aronias,  Calli- 
carpa,  Enkianthus,  Ribes,  Rubus,  Sambucus,  Phillyrea,  Amelanchier 
and  Symphoricarpus,  and  be  sure  and  save  a  shady  nook  for  a  clump 
of  Mahonia  and  Cotoneaster.  Last  but  not  least  we  put  the  Bar- 
berries, for  the  reason  that  the  birds  will  eat  everything  else  first. 
Then  when  all  the  rest  of  the  berries  are  gone  they  will  settle  down  to 
the  sour,  bitter  berries  of  Berberis  Thunbergii.  Berberis  vulgaris  is 
also  very  good,  but  the  birds  will  eat  its  fruit  earlier  for  the  clear,  sour 


BIRDS  IN  THE  GARDEN  235 

flavor  (which  our  grandmothers  found  so  good  in  jam  making)  is 
pleasant  to  the  robins'  palate  so,  let  me  repeat,  be  sure  to  have  a  clump 
or  hedge  of  Thunbergii,  for  the  cold  January  and  February  days 
when  all  the  other  sweeter  fruits  are  gone  and  the  Cedar  birds  will 
stay  with  you  till  the  hosts  appear  from  the  South  in  March,  April 
and  May. 

There  are  also  a  few  vines  which  will  repay  planting  for  the  birds. 
Notably  Actinidias,  Lyceum  and  the  berry-bearing  Loniceras. 

All  these  trees,  shrubs  and  vines  are  not  only  useful  as  bird  food 
but  have  decorative  value  as  well.  Not  nearly  enough  people  realize 
the  great  beauty  of  berry-bearers  in  Winter.  The  warm  oranges,  reds, 
bright  blues  and  clear  blacks  of  the  different  fruits  are  most  attractive 
and  especially  if  there  are  evergreens  with  which  to  contrast  them, 
their  decorative  value  has  only  to  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 

The  birds  will  find  the  evergreens,  especially  the  dense,  close  grow- 
ing Cedars,  Arborvitses  and  Retinisporas  extremely  welcome  as  roosting 
places  on  long,  cold  Winter  nights,  as  I  have  repeatedly  observed, 
every  one  of  my  Cedars  having  its  cozy  feathered  tenants. 

I  will  never  forget  the  night  I  saw,  just  at  dusk,  a  Pine-grosbeak 
creep  into  one  of  my  Junipers,  the  only  one  of  that  species  I  have  ever 
seen.  Or  that  other  February  afternoon  when  in  a  little  flock  of  cedar 
birds  eating  Barberries,  I  suddenly  realized  that  one  was  twice  as  large 
as  any  of  the  rest  and  had  two  white  bars  on  each  wing  and  I  knew  I 
was  watching  a  Bohemian  waxwing,  that  rare  wanderer  over  the  face  of 
the  world.  I  am  sure  he  found  a  sufficient  supper,  rather  bitter  to  be 
sure  but  warming,  and  a  dense  Arborvitse  hedge  kept  him  warm  and 
safe  for  one  night  at  least. 


236 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


LABELS  FOR  FRUIT 

TREES 

The  top  two  are  of  thin 
strips  of  copper  or  tin;  the 
largest  one  is  of  wood,  while 
a  third  is  shown  in  a  sealed 
bottle 


Roller   for   cloth    or    paper   shade 


Showing   how   simply    a   shade   or 
protecting   cover  can   be  unrolled 


Shade  for  young  plants  and  seedlings 


Water   barrel   onLwheels 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

Garden  Tools 


/TTVHE  presence  of  a  garden  always  carries  with  it  the  need  for  some 

JL     tools.    The  first  tools  needed,  perhaps,  are  a  spade,  a  rake,  a  hoe 

and  a  trowel.    In  all  of  these  tools  nothing  is  more  important  than 

their  strength.    Strong  unions  of  the  steel  to  the  wood  are  important, 

for  it  is  here  that  the  tool  breaks  most  quickly.    All  the  tools  that  are 

meant  to  be  sharp  should  be  kept  so,  or  else  their  work  cannot  be  done 


Two     lawn     beaters     or 

levelers     and    a    garden 

roller 


Light      ladder 

used    for 
gathering  fruit 


End  posts  and  wires 
or  strings  used  for 
Pea  or  Bean  supports. 


efficiently.  The  spading  fork  is  especially  useful  in  digging  up  borders 
and  about  trees,  as  it  may  not  cut  off  roots.  The  spade  is  indispensable 
for  edging  beds.  Large  and  small  hoes  are  both  found  useful,  the  large 
one  for  general  use,  and  the  small  one  for  working  about  in  small 
places.  The  Dutch  or  English  scuffle  hoe  is  found  most  useful  for 
loosening  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  cutting  off  weeds.  A  small  hand 


An  easy  method  of  sawing  posts  off  level 


238 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


A  little  frame  against  a  basement 
window 


cultivator  is  now  on  the  market 
having  prongs  which  are  easily  re- 
moved or  their  angle  of  cutting 
changed. 

Many  will  feel  that  a  wheel  hoe 
is  a  very  useful  accessory  tool;  it 
will  certainly  come  in  handy,  and 
can  be  used  for  hoeing,  cultivating, 

furrowing,  hilling  up  or  raking.  Combination  seed  drills  and  wheel  hoes 
are  also  very  serviceable.  For  the  larger  vegetable  garden  the  seed 
drill  will  be  very  useful.  With  a  seed  drill  the  furrow  can  be  opened, 
the  seed  sown,  covered,  the  soil  compacted  over  the  row  and  the  next 
row  marked. 

A  wheelbarrow  will  surely  be  wanted;  a  good  type 
is  seen  in  the  sketch.  Some  wheelbarrows  are  poorly 
balanced  and  are  difficult  to  handle  in  the  garden. 

Small  dibbles,  or  instruments  for  making  holes, 
should  always  be  at  hand  (p.  169).  Several  sizes  are 
useful.  One  may  be  the  size  of  a  broom  stick  with 
a  curved  handle,  another  should  be  small  and  is  useful 
for  transplanting  young  plants. 

Pruning  shears  which  are  procured  at  ridiculously 
low  prices  are  never  worth  anything. 
They  are  not  sharp  and  injure  the 
plants  because  in  attempting  to  cut  a 
branch,  it  is  pinched  and  crushed.  Good 
steel  shears  should  be  chosen  fitted  with 
strong  springs  which  will  cause  them  to 
open  after  cutting.  The  larger  hedge 
and  grass  shears  should  also  have  these 
springs,  otherwise  they  are  a  nuisance. 

For  the  lawn  we  need  as  well  as  the 
standard  ball-bearing  lawn  mower,  a 
narrower  one  for  trimming  the  edges;  if 
you  have  much  lawn  you  will  appreciate 
the  value  of  this  machine  for  trimming 
to  the  very  edge. 

To    keep  the  rows  straight  in  the 
vegetable  garden,  a  good  stout  garden 
line  is  necessary. 
For  cutting  glass  to  be  used  in  the 

Tall  and  short  supports  for  Beans     ,       ,      ,  ,  rnttpr    shnnld     hp    at 

or  other  climbing  plants 


GARDEN   TOOLS 


230 


A  broad-wheeled  barrow 


A  sickle,  sometimes 
used  instead  of  shears 


Garden  steps 


Shows  a  device  for  hoisting  a  barrel 
up  steps  or  incline 


Shelves  and  temporary  storage  box 
for  fruit 


Device    for    winding  cord  or  wire. 

A  modification  of  this  can  be  used 

for  winding  hose-pipe 


Long-stemmed  watering  can 


Three-pronged  hand  cultivator 


A  frame  barrow  for  leaves,  grass  or 
similar  material 


240 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


hand.  Very  cheap  steel  ones  can  be  bought,  as  well  as  better 
ones  with  diamond  points.  It  is  a  rather  simple  matter  to  cut  glass 
if  a  flat  surface  is  available.  The  main  object  is  to  get  a  deep,  even 
cut  entirely  across  the  glass. 

Gloves  are  needed  when  pruning  Roses  and  other  thorny  plants. 
Perhaps  old  discarded  ones  are  as  good  as  anything  bought  for  the 
purpose. 

Here  is  about  what  tools  will  cost  on  the  average: 

Dibber $0.35 

Hand  Weeding  Fork 25 

Spading  Fork 1.00 

Garden  Line 20c.  to  1.00 

Glass  Gutter 15c.  to  3.00 

Glazing  Points,  per  Ib 75 

Gloves 1.25 

Grass  Edging  Knife. . .  .75c.  to  1.50 

Sickle 50c.  to     .60 

Grafting  Tool 50c.  to     .75 

Hoe,  Ordinary 50c.  to     .60 

Hoe,  Dutch  or  Scuffle.  .50c.  to  1.00 
Lawn  Roller,    Water  Ballast 

$11.00  to  $20.00 
Rake,    Steel,  Bow,  or   Garden 

45c.  to     .70 

Saw,  Pruning 60c.  to  1.25 

Shears,  Pruning $1.00  to  1.50 

Shovel,  Square  Pointed, 

$1.00  to  1.40 

Spade 1.00  to  2.00 

Trowel lOc.  to     .50 

Watering  Can 40c.  to  2.50 


The  old  and  the  new  way  of  arrang- 
ing flowers.  Top:  bunched  vase, 
too  close.  Bottom:  glass  holder 
in  dish,  allowing  ample  freedom  of 
arrangement 


Wheelbarrow. . 
Wheel   Hoe,  Seed 


$2.50  to  3.00 
Drill,  etc. 
$4.25  to  $10.00 


CHAPTER    XXIV 

Calendar  of  Operations 

THE  suggestions  for  the  work  for  the  various  months  must  always 
of  course  be  merely  approximate.  Seasons  govern  land  op- 
erations; latitude  and  altitude  have  also  a  wonderful  influence 
on  the  climatology  of  a  given  place.  We  furnish  two  calendars,  one 
as  a  guide  to  work  to  be  done  in  the  Northern  and  Middle  States, 
and  the  other  in  the  South,  or  say  south  of  a  line  drawn  through 
Richmond,  Virginia;  Nashville,  Tennessee;  and  the  Southern 
Mississippi. 

Prof.  J.  W.  Lloyd,  of  the  University  of  Illinois,  in  his  book  on 
Vegetable  Growing,  makes  three  sections,  the  Central,  Northern  and 
Southern,  and  says  that  while  no  absolute  boundaries  can  be  ascribed, 
still  one  merges  into  another  in  a  general  way.  For  example,  the  ter- 
ritory lying  between  37  and  42  deg.  parallels  of  latitude  may  be  con- 
sidered as  essentially  Central,  while  the  area  north  of  the  42  deg. 
may  be  considered  Northern,  and  that  South  of  the  37  parallel 
Southern.  These  boundries  refer  only  to  relatively  low  elevations, 
and  do  not  apply  in  the  high  altitudes  of  mountainous  regions. 

In  regard  to  the  Calender  for  the  South,  it  is  a  pretty  safe  rule  to 
do  land  operations  one  week  later  for  ever  100  miles  north.  In  this 
case  the  writer  has  made  Southern  Maryland  his  base. 

Calendar  for  Middle  and  Northern  States 

JANUARY 

This  is  the  month  for  planning  ahead.  Look  over  the  altera- 
tions to  the  garden,  the  purchase  of  new  plants  and  stock.  It  is  also 
the  month  for  the  ordering  of  early  seeds,  and  for  looking  over  catalogs. 
Pruning  of  some  outdoor  shrubs  may  be  done  (see  Pruning,  p.  185) 
as  well  as  of  fruit  trees,  if  the  weather  allows.  Keep  snow  from  speci- 
men evergreens. 

Give  air  to  cold  frames  wherever  the  temperature  is  well  above 
the  freezing  point.  Take  Asparagus  and  Rhubarb  to  greenhouse  for 
forcing,  and  place  them  under  the  stages.  Sow  Lettuce,  Cauliflower, 
Cabbage,  Onion  and  Leek  under  glass. 

FEBRUARY 
Sweet  Peas  may  be  sown  in  pots  in  the  greenhouse  or  in  frames 

241 


242  GARDEN  GUIDE 

if  they  are  intended  for  exhibition.  Keep  Violet  plants  clean,  and  begin 
taking  runners  for  the  supply  of  new  plants  for  next  year.  Stakes  and 
labels  may  be  got  ready  for  Spring  and  Summer.  Collect  hotbed 
material.  Spray  fruit  trees  against  San  Jose  scale. 

MARCH 

Pruning  may  be  done  on  Catalpas,  Hibiscus,  Vines.  By  the  end 
of  the  month  protective  material  may  be  taken  away  from  most  of  the 
shrubs.  Lawns  should  be  swept,  rolled,  re-seeded  and  top  dressed. 
Pansies,  Daisies,  dwarf  Phlox  may  be  planted  at  the  end  of  the  month. 
About  the  17th  make  a  hotbed.  Sow  seeds  of  annuals  and  perennials, 
especially  Asters,  Begonias,  Cobaa  scandens,  Goleus,  Gypsophila, 
Nicotiana,  Petunia,  Phlox,  Ricinus,  Salvia,  Verbena,  Zinnia,  in  the 
greenhouse  or  in  frames.  Sow  in  the  greenhouse  or  hotbed,  Peppers, 
Egg-plant,  Tomato,  Cucumber  and  Melon. 

APRIL 

Set  out  plants  of  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Celery,  Kohl-Rabi,  Leek, 
Lettuce  from  frames. 

Set  out  plants  of  Alyssum,  English  Daisy,  Dianthus,  Myosotis, 
Pansy.  Also  sow  in  frames  seeds  of  above  and  Asters,  Candytuft, 
Celosia,  Centaurea,  Dianthus,  Dimorphotheca,  Eschscholtzia,  Holly- 
hocks, Marigold,  Morning  Glory,  Nasturtium,  Poppies,  Pyrethrum, 
Sweet  Peas,  Sweet  William.  Seedlings  sown  in  March  need  trans- 
planting. Make  cuttings  of  all  house  plants  that  will  stand  it,  such  as 
Geraniums,  Coleus,  Begonias.  Give  them  an  indoor  start.  Sow  out- 
side Beets,  Carrots,  Cora  (extra  early),  Kohl-Rabi,  Leek,  Lettuce, 
Onions,  Parsley,  Parsnips,  Peas,  Potatoes,  Radish,  Salsify,  Spinach, 
Swiss  Chard,  Turnips. 

Divide  perennials  and  plant  others  received  from  nurseryman. 
Plant  shrubs  and  evergreens.  Plant  Apples,  Pears,  Peaches,  Plum 
trees,  Currants,  Gooseberries,  Strawberries.  Plant  Beans,  Corn  and 
Cucumbers,  Melons,  Pumpkins,  when  Apples  bloom.  Give  the  Rhu- 
bard  some  manure  and  nitrate  and  cover  with  box  to  keep  it  tender. 

Asparagus. — Dig  in  the  mulch  and  give  nitrate  and  other  fertilizer. 
Leave  a  few  stalks  for  beetle  traps.  Prune  hedges. 

MAY 

Frames  need  attention  to  watering  and  ventilation.  Sow  seeds  for 
late  crops  of  Cabbage  and  Cauliflower.  Nothing  is  gained  by  setting 
out  Egg-plants  and  Peppers  too  soon.  Wait  until  it  is  really  warm 
before  removing  from  coldframes.  You  can  keep  the  Onion  and 
Carrot  row  stirred  if  you  have  planted  Radishes  and  can  see  where 
the  row  is. 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS  243 

Spray  fruit.  Plant  Gladiolus  till  late  in  June.  Plant  about 
four  inches  deep.  Dahlias  may  be  planted  for  later  blooming. 

When  planting  be  sure  to  divide  Gannas. 

In  the  region  of  Central  New  York  it  is  hardly  safe  to  set  out  any 
bedding  stock  before  May  30  A  frost  usually  comes  quite  near  this 
date.  Roses  bought  from  nurserymen  can  be  set  out. 

Spray  Currants  with  arsenate  of  lead  wash,  against  caterpillars. 

Plant  Gladiolus,  tuberous-rooted  Begonias,  Caladiums,  Cannas, 
Tuberose,  Madeira  vine.  Start  Asparagus  seed  to  keep  up  your  stock. 
Put  up  window  boxes,  porch  boxes,  hanging  baskets. 

Make  another  sowing  of  all  crops  already  sown.  Sow  early  Corn, 
Cucumber,  Melon  and  Squash.  Thin  crops  to  prevent  overcrowding. 
Examine  Peach  trees  for  borers.  Spray  for  Codlin  moth  as  soon  as 
Apple  blossoms  have  fallen.  Dust  with  hellebore  powder  for  cater- 
pillars on  Gooseberries. 

JUNE 

Dahlias  may  be  planted  up  to  the  middle  of  the  month.  Tender 
or  half  hardy  annuals  can  be  sown  out-of-doors.  Plant  out  tender 
Water  Lilies.  Spray  against  Rose  bugs  and  aphis.  Tie  climbing 
Roses  and  vines.  Keep  all  land  well  cultivated.  See  that  recently 
planted  trees  are  kept  watered.  Evergreens  may  require  to  be  sprayed 
with  clear  water  to  prevent  wilting.  Lawns  also  may  require  watering. 
German  Iris  can  be  divided  and  replanted  at  the  end  of  the  month. 
Make  successional  sowings  of  desired  vegetables.  Sow  Sweet  Corn  for 
September;  also  start  Cabbage  and  Brussels  Sprouts  for  Autumn  use. 
Store  away  temporary  frames  and  sashes. 

JULY 

Some  pruning  can  be  done  to  certain  shrubs  (see  Pruning  chapter) 
that  have  flowered,  but  this  should  mostly  be  done  merely  to  thin  the 
growths  and  allow  room  for  the  development  of  new  ones,  as  in  the  case 
of  the  Flowering  Currant,  climbing  Roses,  Spiraea  Thunbergii  and  Van 
Houttei,  Calycanthus  florida.  Give  herbaceous  borders  and  flower 
beds  constant  cultivation.  Staking  must  be  done  wherever  plants 
require  it.  Trim  lawns  and  hedges.  Divide  Japanese  Iris.  Remove 
seed  pods  from  Rhododendrons.  Keep  everything  well-watered. 
Cultivate  thoroughly.  Plant  Sweet  Corn  and  Beans  for  use  in  late 
September.  Plant  out  late  Tomatoes,  Celery,  Cabbage  and  Brussels 
Sprouts.  Sow  Endive  for  use  in  Fall. 

AUGUST 

Evergreens  may  be  moved  now.  Transplant  Iris,  Peonies,  Oriental 
Poppies  and  Madonna  Lilies.  Spray  Box  plants  for  red  spider.  Dust 


244  GARDEN  GUIDE 

the  lawn  with  bonemeal  after  rain,  or  water  thoroughly.  Final  Beans 
can  be  sown,  Carrots  and  Beets  also.  Sow  late  varieties  of  Peas. 
Sow  Spinach  .  Look  over  the  Cabbage  before  it  heads,  for  Cabbage 
worm  and  hand  pick  Onions  are  gathered  near  the  last  of  the  month. 
Order  bulbs.  (Read  chapter  on  Bulbs).  Keep  runners  of  Straw- 
berries cut  Early  in  month  sow  perennials  in  some  sort  of  frame. 
Cut  flowers  to  prolong  the  season  of  blooming. 

SEPTEMBER 

New  lawns  may  be  made.  Shrubs  or  trees  may  be  transplanted 
at  the  end  of  the  month.  Cuttings  can  be  taken  of  Geraniums,  and 
some  other  bedding  plants,  and  seeds  of  perennials  and  biennials  sown. 
Plant  early  Dutch  bulbs.  Begin  to  blanch  late  Celery  with  soil  or 
brown  paper.  Dig  late  Potatoes  and  harvest  the  Onions  that  were 
from  seed. 

OCTOBER 

Dutch  bulbs  can  be  planted  this  month;  the  sooner  they  are 
planted  the  longer  period  they  have  for  rooting  before  Winter  starts 
and  the  better  the  results.  Seedlings  of  hardy  plants  may  be  trans- 
planted, and  hardy  borders  can  be  re-made.  This  is  also  a  good  month 
for  the  thinning  out  of  the  branches  of  fruit  trees  before  the  leaves 
fall.  Collect  leaves  for  the  making  of  leaf  mold,  or  for  protection 
purposes.  Collect  Corn  stalks.  Roses  can  be  planted.  Prepare 
compost  pile  for  hotbed  or  greenhouse  for  Winter  and  Spring  and  take 
under  cover.  Place  Parsley  plants  in  frames  for  Winter  use.  Blanch 
Endive. 

NOVEMBER 

Leaves  can  still  be  collected.  Plant  bulbs,  trees  and  shrubs, 
as  well  as  hardy  plants.  By  the  end  of  the  month  protective 
material  should  be  placed  around  the  Rhododendrons,  Hydrangeas 
and  other  shrubs.  Dig  up  Cannas  and  Dahlias  and  store  them.  Take 
in  Bay  trees  and  Cacti  to  shelter.  Digging  should  be  done.  Store 
Potatoes  and  all  root  crops.  Clean  up  generally.  Dig  some  Rhubarb 
before  ground  freezes  hard. 

DECEMBER 

Tie  up  evergreens.  Knock  snow  off  branches  of  large  trees. 
Protection  may  be  given  to  shrubs  or  plants  that  are  reputedly  not 
altogether  hardy.  Ventilate  frames  on  every  good  day.  Protect  Celery 
or  such  other  crops  as  may  be  in  the  open  ground.  Look  over  and 
clean  and  oil  all  tools.  Roots,  fruits  and  stock  in  storage  may  be 
looked  over  occasionally  during  winter.  This  is  the  period  when  we 
look  back;  next  month  we  look  forward! 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS  245 


Garden  Calendar  for  the  South 

JANUARY 

Plant  the  extra  early  Peas  of  the  Alaska  type.  Plant  Broad  Wind- 
sor Beans  to  come  in  green  along  with  the  early  Peas.  In  Florida  and 
the  Gulf  Coast  plant  early  Irish  Potatoes.  If  the  Sweet  Peas  were  not 
sown  in  the  Fall  they  should  be  put  in  the  ground  as  soon  as  possible 
to  get  them  to  bloom  before  the  weather  gets  too  hot.  Lettuce  in 
frames  should  be  fully  exposed  to  the  air  in  all  warm  and  sunny  spells. 
Where  grown  under  cloth  it  will  get  drawn  up  weak  if  the  cloth  is  kept 
on  too  close.  Sow  Early  Turnip  Radish. 

FEBRUARY 

In  all  the  central  and  upper  South  prepare  and  fertilize  the  soil 
ready  for  planting  Early  Irish  Potatoes  from  middle  to  last  of  the 
month.  Sow  seeds  of  Lettuce  in  a  well  prepared  bed  for  transplanting 
in  March  for  the  early  Spring  crop  in  the  open  ground.  Sow  seed  of 
the  Copenhagen  Market  Cabbage  and  the  Succession  to  follow  the 
Fall-set  plants  of  the  Wakefield.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  month  sow 
the  wrinkled  Peas.  Sow  early  Milan  Turnips.  Level  the  early 
Cabbage  ridges  after  the  middle  of  the  month  and  cultivate  clean  and 
use  side  dressings  of  Nitrate  of  soda  150  Ibs.  an  acre  to  push  the  early 
growth.  Sow  Leeks  in  seed  bed.  Sow  seed  of  the  Prizetaker  Onion 
in  frames  early  in  the  month  for  transplanting  later.  Sow  in  the  open 
ground  the  latter  part  of  the  month  seed  of  the  New  England  Globe 
varieties  of  Onions  in  heavily  fertilized  soil.  These  will  make  full 
sized  Onions  the  same  season.  The  Bermuda  Onions  can  also  be 
grown  by  the  transplanting  method,  or  will  make  good  crop  sown  in 
the  open  ground.  The  first  week  in  the  month  sow  Seed  of  Earliana 
and  Bonny  Best  Tomatoes  and  Sweet  Peppers  in  a  well  made  hotbed 
under  glass.  Give  them  plenty  of  air  in  sunny  weather  or  you  may 
cook  them.  Plant  Asparagus  seed  and  set  roots.  Sow  early  Beets 
and  Spinach  and  Early  Horn  Carrots. 

MARCH 

In  the  upper  South  the  Early  Irish  Potatoes  can  still  be  planted, 
and  the  latest  Peas  like  the  Champion  of  England.  Later  than  this 
they  will  be  caught  by  the  hot  weather.  Transplant  the  Onion 
plants  as  soon  as  they  are  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil,  nipping  roots 
and  tops  slightly  and  setting  in  rows  shallowly  15  in.  apart  and  3  or  4  in. 
in  the  rows.  Transplant  the  early  Tomato  plants  into  cold  frames  for 
hardening  them  off  for  setting  in  the  open  ground  in  April.  Set  the 


240  GARDEN  GUIDE 

plants  4  in.  apart  each  way,  and  slip  the  sashes  down  in  all  sunny 
weather  to  get  them  inured  to  the  air,  and  finally  get  them  so  hardened 
that  the  stems  will  have  a  purplish  hue  instead  of  a  delicate  green- 
The  latter  part  of  the  month  make  the  first  sowing  of  Snap  or  String 
Beans.  The  Black  Valentine  is  the  most  hardy  for  this  early  crop. 
Slight  ridges  running  east  and  west  should  be  made  and  the  seed 
planted  on  the  South  side  to  shelter  them  from  cold  winds.  If  frost 
threatens  take  the  hand  garden  plow  and  throw  a  furrow  over  the  plants 
till  the  cold  passes.  Early  Beets  can  be  sown  early  in  the  month 
Prepare  beds,  preferably  under  glass  sashes,  for  bedding  the  Sweet  Po- 
tatoes for  the  production  of  plants.  A  very  light  hotbed  will  answer 
or  they  can  be  bedded  under  the  sashes  and  the  sashes  kept  closed 
till  sprouting  shows  and  then  give  plenty  of  air  in  sunny  weather. 
The  sashes  can  be  removed  from  the  January-sown  Beets  and  used 
for  the  Tomatoes  and  Sweet  Potatoes.  The  Beets  are  then  thinned 
and  the  thinnings  transplanted.  Sow  early  Turnip  Radishes  early  in 
the  month  or  late  February.  Sow  Egg  Plant  seed  in  hotbed.  Make 
first  planting  of  garden  Corn.  The  Norfolk  Market  Corn  is  better 
than  sugar  Corn  for  the  early  planting.  Plant  Sugar  Corn  last  of  the 
month.  Sow  Red  Valentine  Beans.  Sow  Early  Horn  Carrots. 
Plant  Horseradish  root. 

APRIL 

Sweet  Potatoes  should  be  bedded  in  the  upper  South.  Plant  suc- 
cession crops  of  garden  Corn,  such  as  Kendel's  Giant,  Country  Gentle- 
man and  Stowell's  Evergreen.  Sow  Onion  seed  very  thickly  in  rows 
to  make  sets  for  Fall  planting.  The  white  Pearl  is  good.  Sow  in 
fairly  fertile  soil  without  fertilization  as  the  sets  should  not  grow  larger 
than  a  marble.  Take  the  Tomato  plants  from  the  frames  with 
a  trowel  and  a  mass  of  earth  and  transplant  into  holes  filled  with  water 
and  pull  the  dry  soil  over.  If  frost  threatens  after  they  are  out  turn  the 
plants  over  and  cover  with  soil  till  the  cold  passes.  In  the  garden,  set 
them  in  rows  three  feet  apart  and  two  feet  in  the  rows  and  train  the 
single  stems  tied  to  stakes.  They  will  be  earlier  and  better  in  this 
way.  Sow  Okra  seed  in  rows  three  feet  apart  and  thin  the  plants  to 
20  in.  in  the  rows.  Sow  more  String  Beans  for  succession  crop  as  soon 
as  the  ones  sown  last  are  well  up.  Plant  Muskmelons  in  well-manured 
hills  6  ft.  apart,  and  Watermelons  in  hills  8x10  ft.  apart.  Sow  Parsley 
early  in  the  month.  Peppers  sown  with  the  Tomatoes  in  February  and 
transplanted  can  be  set  out  this  month.  For  late  Pickles  sow  seed  in 
a  border  of  the  Sweet  Peppers  and  transplant  later.  Sow  seed  in  open 
ground  for  late  crop  of  Tomatoes.  Sow  succession  crops  of  Beans  of 
Bush  or  Snap  varieties  and  plant  Bush  and  Pole  Lima  Beans.  Sow 
Endive  and  Kohl-Rabi.  Set  succession  of  Summer  Cabbages.  Sow 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS  247 

Radishes  of  long  sorts  like  Ghartier.     Plant  Squashes,  Canteloupes 
and  Melons. 

MAY 

Continue  succession  crops  of  String  Beans  and  Sweet  Corn.  Sow 
Tomato  seed  in  the  open  ground  for  late  crop  plants.  Sow  Celery  seed 
on  border  on  north  side  of  building  or  fence.  Prepare  the  bed  smoothly 
and  sow  the  seed  in  lines  6  in.  apart  and  pat  them  down  with  back  of 
spade.  Then  cover  bed  with  gunny  sacks  and  water  on  these.  As 
the  seed  germinates  lift  and  gradually  remove  the  sacks,  and  when  the 
plants  are  large  enough  to  handle  transplant  to  another  bed  in  rows  a 
foot  apart  and  2  in.  in  the  rows  to  make  strong  plants  for  setting  in 
August. 

Make  third  planting  of  Gladiolus  corms.  Lift  Dahlia  roots  that  have 
started  and  divide  to  single  shoots  and  replant.  If  Canna  beds  are 
too  thick  lift  them  and  divide  the  roots  and  replant.  Plant  Caladium 
esculentum.  Any  of  these  that  have  been  left  in  the  ground  with  a 
mulch  should  have  the  mulch  removed.  Sow  more  Tomato  seed  for 
late  Fall  crop.  Transplant  Egg-plants.  Set  succession  Cabbages. 

JUNE 

Sow  seed  of  Parsnips  and  Salsify  about  the  middle  of  the  month. 
These  are  among  the  earliest  things  sown  in  the  North,  but  in  the  South 
they  are  apt  to  get  overgrown  and  run  .to  s£ed  if  sown  early.  In  fact, 
we  have  sown  them  with  success  in  July  in  North  Carolina.  They 
make  their  best  growth  in  the  Fall  and  grow  more  or  less  all  Winter. 
Keep  up  succession  plantings  of  String  Beans  and  Sweet  Corn,  J>lant 
more  Gladiolus  corms  for  succession.  Tomatoes  trained  to  stakes 
should  have  the  side  shoots  regularly  pinched  out.  Gather  Tomatoes 
as  soon  as  they  begin  to  show  color  and  put  in  shady  place  to  fully 
color.  This  will  prevent  sun-scalding.  Watch  for  the  Southern 
bacterial  blight  on  Tomatoes  and  Egg-plants,  and  if  any  escape  where 
others  perish,  save  seed  from  them  to  breed  resistant  strains.  Sow 
Collard  seed.  Transplant  Endive  and  late  Tomato  plants.  Plant 
Cucumbers  for  pickles.  Half  long  Carrots  and  Blood  Beets  last  of 
month.  In  upper  South  plant  late  Irish  Potatoes  middle  of  the 
month. 

JULY 

Set  Late  Tomato  plants  for  the  Fall  crop.  Plant  Carrots  and  late 
Beets.  Fight  the  Crabgrass  or  it  will  soon  get  the  better  of  you.  Sow  seed 
of  late  Cabbages  after  the  middle  of  the  month,  and  see  that  the  seed 
bed  never  suffers  from  lack  of  moisture  to  get  strong  plants  for  setting 
in  late  August.  Sow  Rutabaga  seed  middle  of  month.  Plant  late 


248  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Irish  Potatoes  up  to  middle  of  the  month;  cover  lightly  at  first  and 
gradually  work  the  earth  to  them  as  they  grow  till  level,  and  cultivate 
shallow  and  level  to  conserve  moisture.  Cold  storage  seed  best  Continue 
succession  crops  of  String  Beans  and  Sweet  Corn,  late  Beets  and  Carrots, 
Salsify  in  lower  South,  Cucumbers  for  pickles.  Tie  up  Curled  Endive 
when  leaves  are  dry.  Sow  green  Curled  Scotch  Kale  for  transplanting 
to  make  large  heads.  Spray  late  Irish  Potatoes  regularly  with  Bor- 
deaux mixture  to  prevent  late  blight.  Spray  late  Cabbages  with  lead 
arsenate  for  the  green  caterpillars.  They  can  also  be  kept  down  by 
dousing  the  plants  weekly  with  the  soapsuds  from  the  family  wash. 
Transplant  Leeks  from  seed  bed  into  open  furrows  and  then  gradually 
earth  up  till  level  to  get  good  long  shanks  for  Winter  use. 

AUGUST 

Sow  seed  of  Big  Boston  Lettuce  for  the  outdoor  Fall  crop  early  in 
the  month.  After  middle  of  the  month  sow  English  Peas  for  the  Fall 
crop  in  deep  open  furrows  and  draw  the  earth  to  them  as  they  grow 
till  level  so  as  to  have  the  roots  deep  in  moist  soil.  The  dwarf  early 
varieties  like  Sutton's  Excelsior  and  Thomas  Laxton  are  best  for  this 
sowing.  Sow  seed  of  Brussels  Sprouts  early  in  the  month  to  make 
plants  for  setting  in  September  as  for  Cabbages.  After  the  middle  of 
the  month  sow  Savoy  Leaf  Spinach  in  rows  15  in.  apart  for  the  Fall  crop. 
Sow  early  Milan  Turnips  t or  Fall  use.  After  the  middle  of  the  month 
sow  seed  of  the  Prizetaker  and  Giant  Gibralter  Onions  for  transplanting 
in  October.  Bermuda  Onions  can  be  grown  in  same  way  in  the  lower 
South.  Set  Celery  plants  in  upper  South.  Make  last  planting  of 
'Sweet  Corn.  Sow  succession  crops  of  String  Beans.  Set  late  Cabbage 
plants  after  middle  of  the  month.  Sow  green  Curled  Kale  and  Norfolk 
Curled  Kale  in  rows  for  cutting  later,  last  of  month.  Sow  Chinese 
Celestial  and  rose  colored  Chinese  Radishes  for  Fall  use. 

SEPTEMBER 

Lettuce  can  still  be  sown  for  transplanting  and  heading  in  the  open 
ground  south  of  North  Carolina,  and  the  latter  half  of  the  month  sow 
seed  for  setting  in  frames  for  heading  m  December  and  January,  either 
under  cotton  cloth  or  under  glass.  In  the  long  run  glass  sashes  are 
cheaper  than  cloth  and  will  make  better  crops.  After  the  middle  of 
the  month  sow  seed  of  the  Early  Jersey  Wakefield  Cabbage  for  trans- 
planting later  for  the  early  crop  in  the  Spring.  Plant  sets  of  the  Yellow 
Potato  Onion  and  the  White  Pearl  in  heavily  fertilized  rows  15  in. 
apart.  The  Pearl  will  make  bunching  green  Onions  in  February  and 
March,  and  later  the  offsets  from  the  Potato  Onion  can  be  used  for 
bunching,  and  the  main  bulbs  left  to  ripen  in  early  June.  In  the 


CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS  249 

lower  South  seed  of  The  Prizetaker  and  Giant  Gibraltar  Onion  jean  be 
sown  for  transplanting  later,  and  the  Bermuda  Onions  likewise. 

Seed  of  the  Hanson  and  New  York  Lettuce  sown  after  the  middle 
of  the  month  can  be  later  transplanted  along  with  the  early  Cabbages 
for  wintering  over  and  heading  in  Spring.  The  Big  Boston  is  best  for 
the  frames,  but  if  wintered  outside  is  apt  to  run  to  seed  instead  of  head- 
ing in  Spring.  The  Comparatively  new  Copenhagen  Market  Cabbage 
is  a  fine  sort  to  sow  in  a  cold  frame  in  January  to  set  as  a  succession  to 
the  Early  Wakefield,  but  it  will  not  do  to  sow  early  and  Winter  over 
outside,  as  it  will  invariably  run  to  seed  instead  of  heading. 

Sow  the  main  crop  of  Purple  Top  Globe  Turnips  and  the  Yellow 
Aberdeen.  Make  another  sowing  of  Spinach  the  middle  of  the  month 
and  a  sowing  the  last  of  the  month  to  Winter  over  for  Spring  cutting  or 
late  Winter.  Sow  Parsley  seed  early  in  the  month  for  Winter  and 
Spring  use.  Sow  more  Norfolk  Kale  for  Winter  use.  Sow  Winter 
Radishes  for  the  Winter. 

OCTOBER 

The  Flat  Strap-leaf  Turnips  may  still  be  sown.  Sow  the  Seven 
Top  Turnips  for  wintering  over  for  Spring  greens.  Transplant  Lettuce 
in  6  ft.  beds  10  in.  apart  each  way  early  in  the  month,  and  later  set 
plants  in  the  frames,  but  use  no  protection  till  the  nights  grow  frosty. 
If,  by  reason  of  favorable  weather,  the  Early  Cabbages  sown  in 
September  tend  to  get  overgrown,  it  is  always  best  to  sow  more  the 
first  of  October,  as  the  overgrown  plants  will  be  more  likely  to  run 
to  seed  in  the  Spring  than  plants  of  only  good  size.  Early  in  the 
month  make  another  sowing  of  Spinach  as  the  last  sowing  in  September 
may  get  overgrown  in  favorable  weather  and  the  later  sowing  will  be 
best  for  late  Winter  and  early  Spring.  Plant  Onion  sets  if  not  done  in 
September. 

NOVEMBER 

Prepare  the  land  for  setting  Cabbage  and  Lettuce  plants  for  Spring 
heading.  Run  out  furrows  east  and  west,  and  in  these  use  high  grade 
commercial  fertilizer,  or  fill  half  full  of  well  rotted  stable  manure  with 
a  good  application  of  acid  phosphate  on  it.  Then  bed  on  this  by 
throwing  a  furrow  from  each  side.  Then,  with  a  shovel,  plow  open  a 
furrow  down  the  crest  of  this  ridge,  and  in  this  set  the  plants  deep 
enough  to  cover  the  stems.  Set  the  Cabbage  plants  16  in.  apart  and 
set  a  Lettuce  plant  between  each  Cabbage  plant.  Setting  in  an  open 
furrow  is  better  than  the  old  method  of  setting  on  the  south  side  of 
the  beds,  where  the  plants  are  exposed  to  the  morning  sun  when  frozen, 
and  are  also  apt  to  grow  tender  in  the  warm  spells.  November  is  the 
best  time  in  the  whole  year  for  setting  Strawberry  plants.  Plants  set 


250  GARDEN  GUIDE 

now  will  make  some  Fall  growth  and  will  make  a  fair  crop  of  fruit  in 
the  Spring.  November  is  the  only  safe  time  to  prune  the  Scuppernong 
Grape  Vines  and  others  of  the  rotundifolia  class.  Cut  out  dead  and 
stunted  wood  and  train  out  the  long  one  year  and  two  year  canes,  for 
this  class  of  Grapes,  fruits  on  two-year  wood.  On  the  other  hand  the 
bunch  Grapes,  such  as  are  grown  in  the  North,  should  not  be  pruned 
till  just  before  the  buds  swell  in  the  Spring.  Spinach  can  be  sown  in 
lower  South. 

DECEMBER 

In  lower  South  plant  early  Irish  Potatoes  latter  part  of  the  month . 
Turn  the  late  Cabbages  over  where  they  grew  with  heads  to  the  North. 
Then  bank  the  soil  over  the  stem  and  lower  part  of  the  head  leaving 
the  top  exposed  but  sheltered  from  the  morning  sun.  Those  not  well 
headed  will  continue  to  head.  Gollards  treated  in  this  way  will 
blanch  nicely.  Leave  late  Beets,  Carrots,  Parsnips,  Salsify  and  Leeks 
in  rows  where  they  grew,  and  lift  as  needed 


INDEX  TO  CONTENTS 


Page 

A 

Aconite,  Winter. . , 114 

Alpine  Gardens 119 

Alpine  Plants,  List  of  Suitable .  65-  67 

Annuals  and  Biennials 91 

Annuals: 

Climbing 94 

Combinations  of 94 

Foliage 100 

For  Edging 100 

For    Keeping    Seed    Pods    Re- 
moved    94 

Lesser  Known 97 

Soil  for 91-93 

Sowing 91,  93,  203 

Transplanting 93 

Aphis,  Spraying  Against 140 

Crab 34 

Varieties  of 134 

Apples 132 

Arbor vitae,  Hedges  of 31 

Arches,  Rose  Trellised 127 

Arctotis  grandis .97 

Arsenate  of  Lead  Paste 133-195 

Arsenate  of  Lead  Spray 133 

Ash,  Green 35 

Asparagus,  Cultivation  of 158 

Asters,  China 91-  99 

Azalea 41 

Viscosa. ...  .43 


Backyard  Gardens,  Types  of .  .  . 

12,  13,  32,  107,  154 

Bayberry  (Myrica  cerifera) 43 

Beans,  Cultivation  of 158 

Beds  and  Plans  for  Planting .  .  67-  68 

Beetroot 162 

Benches,  Garden 123 

Berried  Shrubs 40 

Berberis  Thunbergii 31 

Biennials  and  Annuals 91,  101 

Birds: 

Bath 90 

Berry     Bearing     Shrubs     and 

Trees  for 234 

Food  for 233 

In  the  Garden 228 

Blackberries 146 

Black  Leaf  40 134 

Blooming   dates   of   trees,    shrubs 

and  climbers 44-  47 

Blueberries  ( Vacciniums) 43 

Bordeaux  Mixture  as  a  Fungicide.  196 


Page 
Borders  of  Hardy  Flowers: 

Hardy  Perennial 61 

Light  Pink ^ 67 

Lemon-yellow  and  white,  scar- 
let and  white,  with  gray 
foliage,  blue,  blue  and  white, 

blue  and  yellow 68 

'  Of   Various   Colored    Combina- 
tions   67-  68 

Borers 194 

Bridge,  Rustic 125 

Brussels  Sprouts 162 

Buckthorn 31 

Budding 208 

Bulbs       and        Tuberous -Rooted 

Plants 105 

Bulbs: 

Alphabetical  List  of 106 

General  Culture 106 

Mulching  after  Planting 107 

Naturalizing 106 

Planting  Diagram Ill 

Preparation  of  Beds... 105 

Tender 105 

Time  of  Planting 105 

Bushes  for  Wet  Places...  .   43 

Butterfly  Flower .93 


Cabbages 162 

California  Privet 31 

Calycanthus,  the  Sweet  Shrub  ....   40 

Camassia  esculenta 106 

Candytuft 98 

Canna,  the : 74-  77 

Selection  of  the  Best  Varieties ...    75 
Canning  of  Fruits  and  Vegetables. .  181 

Cardinal  Climber.. '. 94 

Carrots 162 

Cauliflowers .163 

Cedars,  Firs,  Pines 34 

Celery : ' 163 

Cercis,  (Red  Bud) 39 

China  Asters 91,  99 

Chionodoxa  (Glory  of  the  Snow)...  106 

Chrysanthemums,  Hardy 82-  84 

City  Gardens,  Planting  and  Crop- 
ping of 154,  159,  161 

Cleome 96 

Clethra  Alnifolia 43 

Climbers,  Trees  and  Shrubs 44-  47 

Coldframes,  Management  of 224 

Cobsea 94 

Colorado  Blue  Spruce 34 

Color     Combinations     of     Hardy 

Plants 67-  68 

251 


252 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Cosmos 

Corn 

Covert  Shrubs 

Crab  Apple 

Crocuses 

Crocuses  in  the  Grass 

Cropping  Tables 

Crown  Imperial 

Cucumbers 

Cultivators,  Planet,  Jr 

Hand 

Curculio  Pests  on  Plums 

Currants 

Cut  Flowers,  Useful 

Cuttings  from  Leaves 

Cuttings: 

Hardwood  and  Softwood. 

Of  Perennials 

Cutworms 

Cypress  Vine 


Page 
.  .  98 

.165 
...  41 
....  34 
104-106 

104 

159-160 
. . ..107 

165 

170 

239 

137 

....  143 
. . . .  97 
201 

..200 
. . ..201 

195 

.   94 


Daffodil  Flower,  a .- 108 

Dahlia,  Cultivation  of  the 76-  82 

Dahlia  Root  for  Propagation 201 

Delphiniums  from  Seed 96 

Deutzia  Gracilis 39 

Device  for  Hoisting  a  Barrel 239 

Digging  and  Preparing  Soil 149 

Diseases  and  Insect  Pests  of  Veg- 
etables  156 

Diseases  of  Plants 195 

Division    of    Herbaceous    Peren- 
nials  202 

Dogwood,  Siberian 31,  39 

Dove  Cote 124 

Drives 12 


Edging  Plants 42,  100 

Elaeagnus 40 

Elderberries. 40 

Elm,  American 36 

Egg-plant 166 

Emulsions  as  Sprays 194 

Endive 167 

Enemies  of  Plants 193 

Eranthis  Hyemalis  (Winter  Acon- 


ite). 


Eremurus  (The  King's  Spear) 
Euonymus  Radicans  Vegeta... 

Evergreen  Shrubs 

Evergreens 

Pruning 

Everlastings 

Exposure  of  the  House  in   Rela- 
tion to  the  Sun. ..  ...    14 


107 
107 
42 
40 
34 
189 
97 


Page 
F 

Fences  and  Hedges 13,  17,  30 

Ferns: 

From  Spores 204 

Hardy  Garden 115 

Fertilizers    and    Manure    for    the 

Garden 150 

Firs  and  Spruce 34 

Fleur-de-lis 87 

Flower  Borders,  Hardy 61 

Flower  Seeds,  Germination  of 102 

Flower,  Section  of  a  Typical 206 

Flowers: 

A  Few  of  Everybody's  Favorite .   69 

Annual,  Combinations  of 94 

Everlasting 96 

Hardy,  List  of  Thirty  Indispen- 

sible,  General  Selection  of  .65-  68 
Hardy,     Autumn     and     Spring 

Planting 62 

Hardy,     Various    Color     Com- 
binations    67 

Old  and  New  Methods  of  Ar- 
ranging  240 

Useful  for  Cutting 97 

Flowering  the  Branches  of  Shrubs 

Indoors 44 

Foliage  Annuals 100 

Forsythia  (Golden  Bell) 39 

Fountains 127 

Frame    Barrow    for    Leaves    and 

Grass 239 

Frame  for  Winter  Protection 199 

Frames  and  Hotbeds 217-225 

Fritillaria 108 

Imperialis 107 

Fruit: 

Canning,  Time  Table  for 182 

For  the  Garden 123,  131 

Storage  Box  for 239 

Trees,  Pruning 189 

Fungicides 133,  195 


G 

Galanthus  (Snowdrop) . . 

Galtonia  candicans 

Garden : 

Birds  in  the 

Furniture 

House 

Laying  Out  the 

Tools 

Germination  Table 

Ginkgo,  Tree 

Gladiolus,  the 

Gleditschia  triacanthos.. 
Glory  of  the  Snow.... .  .  . 

Golden  Bell  (Forsythia). 
Gomphrena 


.108 
.108 

.228 
.123 
.124 
.  11 
.237 
.102 
.  36 
,  69 
.  35 
,108 
39 
.  97 


INDEX  TO  CONTENTS 


253 


Page 
Gooseberries 144 

Gourds 93,  94 

Grafting 206 

Grape  Hyacinth  (Muscari) Ill 

Grapes 140 

Pruning 190 

Grass  Plots  and  Lawns 18 

Grass: 

Mowing 20 

Rolling,  Weeding,  Turfing 21 

Sowing 19 

Grasses: 

Ornamental 101 

Greenhouses,  Hotbeds  and  Frames.217 
Ground  Gover  and  Low  Growing 

Shrubs 41 

Grounds,  Home,  Planning 11 

Gypsophila 99 

H 

Hand  Cultivator,  a 239 

Hardy  Flowers: 

Among  the 58 

Cultivation 62 

Lists  of 65-  68 

Necessity  for  Replanting 64 

Removing  the  Seed  Pods  of ....   64 

Staking 64 

Watering 64 

Hardy  Flowers: 

Borders  of 67,  68 

Colored  Combinations  of 67 

Hardy  Plant  Borders 61 

Harvesting  and  Storing  Vegetablesl56 

Heating  a  Small  Greenhouse 220 

Hedges  and  Fences.. ..13,  15-17,  30,  31 

Pruning 188 

Helichrysum 97 

Heliotrope 93 

Helipterum  Roseum 97 

Hellebore  Powder 195 

Hemlock,  Hedges  of 31 

Herbs 167 

Hoe,  Planet  Jr 169 

Hoes,  Different  Types  of 170 

Holly,  American 41 

Home  Grounds,  Planning 11 

Honey  Locust 35 

Horse-Radish 168 

Hose  Pipe,  Device  for  Winding 239 

Hotbed: 

Planting  a 161,  222 

Management  of 224 

Planting  a 161 

Preparation  of 223 

Hotbeds  and  Frames 217 

House: 

Methods    of    Planting    Around 

the 15 

Best   Position   for   with   Refer- 
ence to  the  Sun 14 


Page 

Humus,  commercial 151 

Hyacinths: 

Grape  (Muscari) ...  109 

Summer Ill 

Hyacinthus: 

Orientalis 108 

Hydrangea,  Pruning 190 

I 
Ilex: 

Crenata  Microphylla 31 

Opaca 41 

Immortelles 97 

Indian  Squash . .  .  .  , 109 

Insecticides 133,  134,  194 

Insect  Pests  of  Plants 193 

Insects  and  Diseases  of  Vegetables.  156 

Introduction  to  Garden  Guide 9 

Iris: 

English  and  Spanish 109 

Fertilizer  for 87 

Florentina 87 

German  (I.  Germanica) 87 

Japanese  (I.  Ksempferi) 86 

Siberian  (I.  siberica) 86 

Xiphiodes  and  Xiphium .  109 

Irrigation 153 

Ivy,  English 42 

Jerusalem  Artichoke 201 

Juniper 42 

K 

Kale,  or  Berecole 168 

Kalmia  Latifolia 41 

Kerosene  emulsion 194 

Knapsack  Sprayer 193 

Kohl-Rabi..  ..169 


Lattice  Screens 20,  21,  123,  212 

Lawn: 

Beaters 237 

Plantings 33 

Seed  Mixtures 18 

View  of  a 19 

Lawns  and  Grass  Plots 18 

Layering 209-210 

Leaf  Cuttings 201 

Leeks 169 

Lettuces 169 

Lilacs,  Selection  of 39 

Lilies 109 

Lilies :  (see  also  Lilium) : 

Canada 110 

Coral Ill 

Gold-Banded 110 

Handsome 110 

Madonna 110 

Regal 110 

Scarlet  Martagon 110 

Thunbergii 110 


254 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Page 

Lilies:  Tiger Ill 

Turk's  Cap Ill 

Wood,  or  Wild  Red 110 

Yellow  speciosum  or  Henry's. .  .  .110 

Lilies,  Hardy .110 

Liliums  (See  also  Lilies) 

auratum 110 

Canadense 110 

candidum 1 10 

chalcedonicum 110 

elegans 110 

Henryi 110 

philadelphicum 110 

regale  (myriophyllum) 110 

speciosum 110 

superbum Ill 

tenuifolium Ill 

tigrinum .  Ill 

Lily  of  the  Valley ...      109 

Lime  Sulphur  Spray 194 

Loganberry,  the 146 

Love-in-a-Mist 

Lupines 99 

M 

Magnolia  glauca 43 

Mahonia  aquifolium 41 

Maidenhair  Tree  (Ginkgo) 36 

Manures   and    Fertilizers   for   the 

.  Garden 150 

Manure: 

Chicken 150 

Maple,  Sugar  or  Hard 36 

Mats,  Straw  or  Reed 198 

Melons i 170 

Memorial     Rose     (Rosa     \\iehu- 

raiana) 42 

Mignonette 93 

Mock  Orange 39 

Morning  Glory 94 

Mountain    Laurel     (Kalmia    lati-  • 

folia) 41 

Mowing 20 

Muscari  (Grape  Hyacinth) .111 

Mustard 171 

Myrica  asplenifolia  (Sweet  Fern) .   42 

Myrica  cerifera 43 

N 
Names  of  Flowers,  Common  and 

Botanical 102 

Nannyberry... 40 

Narcissi 112 

Nasturtium 94 

Naturalizing  Bulbs 106 

Nemophila 93 

Nest  Boxes 230,  232 

Nicotiana,  Ornamental  tobacco. . . .   95 

Norman .   30 

Nursery  Stock,  Difference  Be- 
tween This  and  Material 
from  the  Wilds 47 


Oak,  Rod. 

Pin 

Okra 

Onions. . .  . 


Page 

.   36 

...   35 

....171 

171-173 


Pachysandru  terminalis 41 

Paris  Green 195 

Parsley 173 

Parsnips.. .  .  . 173 

Paths 12-  17 

Pavilion,  a  Rustic 127 

Peaches 139 

Pears 136 

Peas,  Culinary 173 

Peonies : 

Selection  of  Best  Varieties 75 

Peony,  the 63,  70,  71,  73 

Pepper  Bush,  Sweet  (Clethra  alni- 

folia). 43 

Perennials: 

Hardy,  Combinations  of 58 

Cuttings  of.... « 201 

Division  of 202 

List    of    Thirty    Indispensable, 

General  List  of 65 

Necessity  for  Replanting 64 

Sowing 203 

Pergola  Covered  with  Vines 130 

Pergola,  a  Rustic 54 

Pests: 

Insect.. 193 

Means  of  Controlling 194 

Petunias ' 93 

Pin  Oak 35 

Plane,  Oriental 36 

Planning  the  Home  Grounds 11 

Plans  of  gardens 

12,  13,  23,  25-29,   107-154 

Plant  Forcer 226 

Plant  Propagation 200 

Plants: 

Enemies  of • 193 

For  edging 100 

Tuberous-Rooted 105 

Planting: 

Hardy  Flowers 62 

Plans 22-  29 

Plans  to  Insure  Best  Effect  of 
Shade,    Outlook,    Protection, 

Privacy 15 

Schemes  for  Hardy  Plants. 67-  68 

Trees 36 

Plums,  Spraying 137 

Poppies 93 

Pond  with  Water  Lilies 113 

Porch  Plants  and  Window  Boxes.. 211 

Portulaca 93 

Potatoes 174 

Privacy,  Planting  for 15 


INDEX  TO  CONTENTS 


255 


Page 

Privet,  Hegel's 31 

Golden 31 

California 31 

Propagation  of  Plants 200 

Protection: 

In  Winter 197 

Planting  for 15 

Pruning 185-  186 

Table  for  Shrubs  and  Fruits 

189-192 

Publisher's  Forword 7 

Pumpkins 176 

Pyrethrum  Powder 195 


Radishes 

Raspberries 

Red  Bud  (Cercis)  . 

Red  Currants 

Rhubarb. . . 


.176 
.145 
.  39 
.143 
.176 


Rock  Garden,  the,   118,   119,  121,  122 
Rock  Garden : 

Construction 120 

Material  for 121 

Plants  for 121 

Roller,  a  Garden 236 

Rolling 21 

Root  Cuttings .202 

Rose  Garden,  the 49 

Rosa  setigera 49 

Memorial 42 

Roses: 

Beds  for 53 

Brier 54 

Climbing 50 

Diseases  Injurious  to 57 

Hybrid  Perpetual 50 

Hybrid  Tea 52 

Insects  Injurious  to 55 

Penzance  Brier 49 

Preparation  of  Soil  for 53 

Pruning 185 

Rambler 50 

Soil  for * 53 

Summer  Treatment  of 55 

Tea 50 

Time  to  Plant 53 

Rustic    Arches,     Bridges,     Seats, 

etc 123-129 

Rutabaga 176 

S 

Salads 165 

Salisburia  (Ginkgo) 36 

Salpiglossis 93 

Salsify 177 

San  Jose  Scale,  Prevention  of 133 

Sawing  off  Level,  Method  of 237 

Scillas  or  Squills 113 

Screen  for  Side  of  House 57 

Sea-Kale 177 

Seats,  Garden,  Rustic 125,  129 


Seeds:  Page 

Flower,  Germination  of 102 

Of  Flowers  Sown  Indoors 203 

Of     Perennials     and     Annuals, 

Sowing 203 

Vegetable 151 

Shade,  Planting  for 15 

Shading,  Method  of 236 

Shrubs  and  Trees  for  Gardens. 

22,  24,  26,  33 
Shrubs: 

Evergreen 40 

Flowering  Dates  of 44-  47 

For  Cover  Planting 41 

For  Forcing 44 

For  Wet  Places ' '.   42 

Low      Growing      and      Ground 

Coyer 41 

Pruning 187 

Some  of  the  Best 38 

Trees  and  Climbers 44-47 

With  Edible  Berries 40 

Shrub,  the  Sweet  (Calycaiithus) ...   40 

Slugs .195 

Snowdrops. ...  108 

Soil: 

Digging  or  Plowing 149 

For  Hardy  Plants. 61 

Soap  Solutions 194 

Sowing    and    Planting    Table    for 

Vegetables 157 

Sowing  Annuals 91-  93 

Spinach 179 

Spindle  Tree,  Winged 40 

Spiraea,  Van  Houtte's 39 

Sprayer: 

An  Efficient  Barrel 145 

A  Vaporizer 194 

Sprayer,  Knapsack !  113 

Spraying: 

Gooseberries 144 

Peaches .140 

Spruce,  Norway,  Hedges  of 31 

Squash ^  .  .  179 

Sterilization  in  Fruit  and  Vegeta- 
ble Canning 182 

Stocks 93 

Storage  Box  for  Fruit 239 

Strawberries 141 

Street  Trees. . .   35 

Sub-Tropical  Plants> 41 

Suburban  Gardens 12,  23,  37 

Sulphur  as  a  Fungicide 196 

Sulphuric  Acid   and   Water  as   a 

Spray 144 

Sumach,  Dwarf 42 

Summer  House,  a 124,  127 

Sugar  Corn 165,  180 

Summer  Hyacinth 108 

Sun  in  Relation  to  the  House. ...    14 


256 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Page 

Supports,  Pea  and  Bean .237-238 

Sweet  Fern  (Myrica  aspleni  folia) .. .   42 

Sweet  Peas 88-  90 

Sweet  Sultan 93 

Swiss  Chard 164 

Syringing  and  Spraying 194 

T 
Terrace  Garden,  Well  Planted ....   30 

Tobacco 195 

Tomatoes 179 

Tomatoes,  Pepper,  and  Eggplants.  153 
Tools: 

Average  Cost  of 240 

Dibbers,  Types  of 169 

For  the  Garden 237 

Hand  Cultivator 239 

Hand  Pump,  Spray  Engine 195 

Hoe,  Planet  Jr 169 

Hoes,  types  of 170 

Garden  Steps 239 

Labels 236 

Lawn  Beater 237 

Marker  for  Vegetable  Garden.  .  165 

Pea  and  Bean  Supports 238 

Secateurs 192 

Syringes 194 

Vaporizing  Sprayers 194 

Watering  Can 239 

Wheelbarrow 239 

Tree  and  Shrub  Seeds 205 

Tree  Guard 236 

Tree  of  Heaven 35 

Trees  and  Shrubs  for  Gardens.  .  .  . 

22,  24,  26,  33 

Trees  with  Colored  Foliage 34 

Trees: 

For  Streets 35 

Planting 36 

Shrubs   and    Climbers,    List   of 

Blooming  Dates  of 44 

Trellises  and  Screens.. 20,  21,  125,  212 

Tuberous-Rooted  Plants 105 

Tulips 113 

Turfing  Lawns 21 

Turnips 180 

V 

Vacciniums,   Blueberry   or   Huck- 
leberry    40 

Vegetable  Garden 

147,  149,  150,  152,  155 


Vegetable  Garden: 

Cropping  a  City 159-161 

Digging  and  Preparing  Soil  in.  149 

General  Cultivation  of 155 

Growing     Plants     for     Setting 

Out  in 148 

Harvesting  and  Storing  from . .  156 

Insects  and  Diseases  in 156 

Manure  and  Fertilizer  for 150 

Planting  and  Transplanting  in..  151 

Watering  in 153 

Vegetable  Marrows 180 

Vegetables    and    Fruits,    Canning 

of 181,  183 

Vegetables,  Sowing  and  Planting 

Table ,157 

Verbenas 93 

Vinca  Minor 42 

Vines,  Annual 94 

Vines,  Grape,  Pruning 141 

W 

Water  Cress 180 

Watering  and  Irrigation 153 

Water  Lilies 113 

Watermelons 170 

Water  plants 116-117 

Weeding  Lawns 21 

Wet  Places,  Shrubs  for 42 

White   Fringe    (Chionanthus   Vir- 

ginica) 43 

Weigela 39 

Window  Boxes  and  Porch  Plants. 211 
Window  Boxes: 

Plants  for 213-216 

Self  Watering 212 

Winter  Aconite 107 

Winter: 

Protection 197 

Protection,  Frame  for 199 

Workmen's  Dwellings 16,  31 

Workmen's  Dwellings  and  Small 
Gardens 12,   13,   107,   154 


Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia 

Y 

Yellow  Root 

Yew,  Dwarf  Japanese 


.   42 


..   42 
.   31 


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and  fruits  are  profitable  to  grow,  but  it  gives  the  instruction  to 
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and  jellies,  with  all  the  perfected  art  of  European'chefs.- 

Canning  and  Preserving.    PL^d..s.  T:  Ror"    80c. 

This  work  is  the  result  of  careful  practice  in  teaching  begin- 
ners how  to  can  and  preserve  fruits  and  vegetables;  also  the 
best  methods  of  making  marmalades,  fruit  butter  and  jellies, 
drying  fruits,  and  making  syrups  and  catsups,  pickling,  flavored 
vinegars,  drying  herbs,  etc. 

The  New  Cookery.    &££.  Frances  Cooper:  .$1.65 

Contains  nearly  1000  recipes  of  food  value  and  calories  and 
food  constituents  in  protein,  fats  and  carbo-hydrates  of  each 
recipe.  This  information  is  for  the  whole  recipe  or  for  individual 
portions  of  helpings.  This  is  a  long  step  in  ,the  direction  of 
scientific  living  as  it  brings  about  the  control  of  diet.  Not  a  book 
of  recipes  for  invalids,  though  a  special  chapter  is  given  on  food 
for  them.  It  is  intended  to-  suggest  foods  and  their  preparation 
which  will  build  health,  strength,  endurance  and  efficiency. 

Around  the  World  Cook  Book.  KS.L  Barro11  $1.75 

Six  hundred  of  the  best  recipes  of  the  world,  gathered  and 
tested  during  years  of  travel. 


Bright  Ideas  for  Entertaining,  .  i<  55c. 

Two  hundred  forms  of  amusements  or  entertainment  for  social 
gatherings  of  all  kinds;  large  or  small  parties,  clubs,  sociables, 
church  entertainments,  etc.;  with  special  suggestions  for  birth- 
days, wedding  anniversaries,  Hallowe'en,  All  Fools'  Day,  Christ- 
mas Day,  New  Year's  Eve,  and  other  holidays. 

A  Woman's  Hardy  Garden.  iryHelSsatpauidherford  $1.90 

Mrs.  Ely  gives  copious  details  of  the  cost  of  plants,  the  exact 
dates  of  planting,  the  number  of  plants  required  in  a  given  space 
for  beauty  of  effect  and  advantage  to  free  growth,  the  protection 
needed  from  sun  and  frost,  etc. 
A      T      IV*  I  *   r\yi«.  .    r*      \~«          438  to  448  West  37th  Street, 

A.  1  .  Ue  La  Mare  Co.  Inc.  NEW  YORK  CITY 

Printer*  and  Publisher*  of  Gardening  Books 


.4  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


